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What is the best additive to put in organic soil to assure that all micronutrients are in there? I used Fox Farms Ocean Forest soil for my last grow (Awesome stuff. Best plants I ever had.) and the instructions say to add nutes after 30 days. I added some granular organic fertilizer (Jobe's Organic) and I was concerned that there weren't enough micro-nutes in it. I added some left over General Hydroponics Flora Micro but that stuff is high in nitrogen and I didn't like using it in the flower stage.

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Soluble seaweed extract: http://www.technaflora.com/indexProduct.php?ID=105

 

Soluble Seaweed Extract™ is a concentrated, comprehensive gardener’s tool in powder form. The concentrate is made from 100% pure, organic Norwegian kelp, Ascophyllum Nodosum, which is harvested on the Atlantic Coast of Canada. This highest-quality kelp is a rich natural source of over 60 chelated nutrients, vitamins, amino acids and naturally occurring hormones that stimulate plant growth, and has been celebrated for its natural fertilizing properties for centuries. Enhanced seed germination, promotion of a healthy root system, and rapid stem and shoot development are among the recognized benefits of using this kelp extract.

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What is the best additive to put in organic soil to assure that all micronutrients are in there? I used Fox Farms Ocean Forest soil for my last grow (Awesome stuff. Best plants I ever had.) and the instructions say to add nutes after 30 days. I added some granular organic fertilizer (Jobe's Organic) and I was concerned that there weren't enough micro-nutes in it. I added some left over General Hydroponics Flora Micro but that stuff is high in nitrogen and I didn't like using it in the flower stage.

 

FFOF has most micronutes in it already. It also has chitin. FFOF is very similar to what i recommend, i just make you mix it yourself and put the ingreidents in so eventually it will perk interest to understand Why you are using ingredients and what they do.

 

FFOF is perfectly wonderful but tends to run a little short on lime(cal) and epsoms(mag) and the nutes are slightly under in strength to what i have here. But a perfectly wonderful way to go with FFOF.

 

The main difference between doing my mix(or a similar one) is that mine costs WAY less. I am working with patients/caregivers that have no money and in some cases, less than no money. Me telling them to buy FFOF and spend all that extra money is like me telling them you shouldnt eat this week.

 

I made this for simplicity, education, understanding, cost effectiveness, and ease of getting ingredients(as best possible) without having to go to grow store. Most of this stuff can be had at places like Home Despot, Wally World, Feed and seeds and such. :-)

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can i ask how many times you transplant mal?

 

i was going from clone cube to

1 gallon (pro mix only) to

5 gallon Kiss for 1 month to

10 gallon Kiss for 1 month then flower.

 

recently i have had issues with the roots not being developed enough from the 5 to the 10 step so i switched to 3 gallon pots the past month or so...

well after transplanting again today the balls are still falling apart somewhat and i wonder if i should just be skipping the middle pot...

going from 1 gallon for a month straight to their 10 gallon final home

 

i thought adding a few more gallons a few weeks before flowering would help allow enough nutrients to make it through the entire flower cycle. (all my strains are currently 8 week)

when i dumped my harvest pots... i noticed the root balls were only using 75-90% of the soil mass.

not bound at all

in fact many were still very loose...

 

i know i could have used 7 gallon pots for my plant size... and wonder now if because i decided to go 10 gallon if thats enough soil to make it through the entire life cycle.

 

my actual question is fairly simple... how many transplants do you recommend?

size of pots of course being proportionate to the space available.

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This is a simple place to begin..

 

thank you Mal..

 

KISS - Keep It Simple Stupid

 

Make this as easy on yourself as possible.

 

A simple overview of the basics you will need.

 

Basic recipe:

Full bale Promix(3.8 cuft compressed)(2.0 cuft sometimes or uncompressed adjust accordingly)

6 cups Bone Meal

4 cups Blood Meal

4 cups kelp meal

3 cups Dolomite Lime

1 1/2 cups Epsom salt

1 small bag Worm Castings

1 bag Perlite (optional)

6 tbsp. Plant Success Granular (optional)

3 tbsp Soluble Seaweed extract (optional)

3 tbsp Rare Earth (optional)

1 can of Guinness beer (drink or add to soil :) )

 

For simplicity mix a half bale at a time. Get the nice 50 gallon “contractor grade” black garbage bags.

 

Simpler yet (no soil to mix) and cost about same:

buy ProMix BX, and Ionic nutes.

Wet the BX in the pot and add Ionic per directions, veg or flower.

Water (nutes in water) every 2nd day to slight run-off.

Edited by pic book
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not simpler pic..

 

i have tried 4 different nute lines in BX...

 

they all suck.

 

organic is the way to go as far as i am concerned.

 

no offense...

 

i love the simplicity of water only.

 

i love the fact that the plant asks what it wants from the soil..

 

to each their own... but i love not having to guess on the feed cycle... it is all already in there.

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can i ask how many times you transplant mal?

 

i was going from clone cube to

1 gallon (pro mix only) to

5 gallon Kiss for 1 month to

10 gallon Kiss for 1 month then flower.

 

recently i have had issues with the roots not being developed enough from the 5 to the 10 step so i switched to 3 gallon pots the past month or so...

well after transplanting again today the balls are still falling apart somewhat and i wonder if i should just be skipping the middle pot...

going from 1 gallon for a month straight to their 10 gallon final home

 

i thought adding a few more gallons a few weeks before flowering would help allow enough nutrients to make it through the entire flower cycle. (all my strains are currently 8 week)

when i dumped my harvest pots... i noticed the root balls were only using 75-90% of the soil mass.

not bound at all

in fact many were still very loose...

 

i know i could have used 7 gallon pots for my plant size... and wonder now if because i decided to go 10 gallon if thats enough soil to make it through the entire life cycle.

 

my actual question is fairly simple... how many transplants do you recommend?

size of pots of course being proportionate to the space available.

 

I go from beer cup to 2 gallon to 7 gallon.

 

10 gallon is pretty huge. You can get em pretty buggerin big in a ten. :-) Break out a few more K's. Go vertical. :-)

 

I would suggest trying a 6-7 gallon on one plant, couple days less veg time and see what happens. :-)

 

The problem with the one galloners is that they just don't allow enough area for the rootball you are seeking, OR you need to veg in the 10 gallon a little longer.

 

My advantage is i am not going from a clone cube to the 1 gallon. I am going from a beer cup to a 2 gallon. I wouldnt push it further than a 2 gallon though.

 

In your situation, it seems maybe from a clone cube you could go into a like a quart pot to develop the initial ball and skip the 1 gallon and go to the 3 gallon,... THEN the 10 gallon.

 

You really should be going from 3 to ten. 1 to ten is too big a jump. The soil will sit wet on ya.

 

Also, don't totally fear to add a little boost of nutes a few weeks into flowering if needed. Some strains eat nutrients at slightly different levels. By the lack of rootball, i assume you shouldnt be having a problem with the nutes. :-)

 

So yea,... just try 1- 6/7 gallon and see how it goes. Won;t hurt nuttin. I mean,.. whats the worst that can happen? Ya end up harvesting a plant. :-)

Edited by Malamute
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I have a few questions. Do you have to let it cook for a while. Last 3 components to this recipe are they a dry material for the soil or hard when watering if issues arise.

 

It will be better if ya let it cook for awhile.

 

3 tbsp Soluble Seaweed extract (optional)

3 tbsp Rare Earth (optional)

1 can of Guinness beer (drink or add to soil)

 

I add the seaweed extract directly into the soil. It can also be used to supplement in general watering. Shouldnt be needed.

 

Rare Earth is added directly to the mix. It can also be used supplementally if wanted. It is not needed.

 

The Guinness beer should definitely be drunk. The work input on this style of growing is at the front end. Mixing the soil. The beer is earned.

 

And those 3 ingredients are optional. I mean, if ya don;t have the extra few bucks to get the items right now, you can get by without out them no problem. Most micronutrients are in the kelp meal, and silicon isnt needed in the boosted rates by rare earth. It is just helps. Some minor humates and such. But is supplemntal to the base mix.

 

I really try to keep costs low for people. :-)

Edited by Malamute
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I have friend that uses ionic, but it taste weird. currently I use Fox farm but am wanting to go organic for the more robust flavor. Scared to switch since I am having good results and no complaints.

 

Just try one plant and see how it goes. I never suggest a major change if you are doing something that is working for you. Just experiment with a plant or two. :-)

Edited by Malamute
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  • 1 month later...

This is a fantastic mix folks. 0 hassle and organic...I'll take it!

 

I have had great success with hydroponics over the years...until I got the dreaded pythium. So while I am working that out I can not have me and my patients going without meds so I am doing a run with this while fixing the pythium...and I love it so far.

 

Thanks Malamute.

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Pythium...Root Rot....Hydro Herpes...

 

What ever name you choose to give it...

 

This is one of the worst things that can happen to any hydroponic farmer. After 2 years of stunning success I contracted this terrible affliction. While I fight it I am growing in this soil so that my patients still have thier meds.

 

This plant was half dead of root rot when I put it in this soil.... I suspect that the benificial bacteria that is added killed the pythium.

IMG_20130331_112015_zps089b8e29.jpg

Now look at her just a couple weeks later!

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Pythium is still devastating in soil too. :-)

 

It's in the "must kill" territory. :-)

...dang dude.

I am brewing microbial tea to fight it. (Aquashield Ancient Forest, ZHO powder brewed in a bubble bucket)

The stuff should be here in a day or 2. Think I should inoculate the soil plants too? This infection has me at my wits end. But the soil plants seem to have it beat.

In my hydro system I have tried SM90 Physan 20, and bleach, nothing works for long.

 

and this was a garden that was once awe-inspiring now devastated.  I started the soil plants to save me from having to shut down all together.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hmm, thanks.

 

I basicly tried to come up with a way to as simply as possible show a n00b how to grow. When i take out all the work of figuring anything out except how to water the plant, my job is easier. :-) I can show up at a novices house after he purchased his simple inexpensive light setup, give him a bale, some baggies filled with the nutrients they need to dump into the bale of promix, a few small and big pots, show them how a pot feels when it is fully watered and when it needs to be watered and tell them to just leave it the hell alone; i know they will be harvesting a pretty decent crop of some yummy organic medicine.

 

:-)

 

Then just teach em how to clone using beer cups and promix and ta'daa,... the major work is done.

LOL.

"Just leave it the hell alone!" I love it!

Very good advice for some new growers. Some people literally love their plants to death on the first grow...and sometimes beyond that.

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Hahaha.

 

 It may be the most important advice I ever give people. Especially with this type of a method.

 

Please,... just water it and leave it alone. Don't fondle it, poke it, prick it, bend it, pinch it, peek at it, show people it, add anything to it, overwater it, or do anything other than let it sit there and just grow. :-)

 

 After a few successful crops, Then,... maybe,... experiment on ONE plant some method and see how it goes.

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The idea is that once you become familiar and understand the basics of KISS; you can then move on and do research in understanding what it is a plant actually needs (16 18 Essential Nutrients and such).

 

 Some people dislike the idea of using dead animals for nutrients(blood/bone),  but once you understand whatthe blood and bone do, timing of release for uptake of nutrients, breakdown cycle, conversion cycle and and the likes, you can then judge how to utilize Say cottonmeal, greensand or azomite as stated and maintain the proper NPK values that uptake at similar rates and resolve availability at proper stages during the grow cycle.

 

 

KISS is definitely "Keep it Simple Stupid",... but it is anything but simple once you understand the process of what is actually happening underneath the plant. :-)

 

It is a science that is still being understood.  The magic of life.

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