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Subcools Super Soil


budpuffer

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Okay,  I did the calculation for you.

 

20#CO2* (453.592 grams co2/1# co2) * (1000mg/1g) = 9,071,840 mG CO2.

 

My room size is 3.6x2.7x2.1 Meters3 which equals 21.41 Meters3

 

9,071840mG CO2/21.41 Meters3 = 423719mG/Meters3 concentration.

 

PPMs= = (mg/m3 value )(24.45)/(molecular weight)

PPMs CO2 in my room = 423719mG/Meters3 *(22.4)/ (44.01grams/mol)

 this equals 215,662 PPM CO2.

 

This is under the assumption that CO2 behaves as an ideal gas and that my conditions are under STP which means 1ATM, 273 degrees K. 

Because we are operating at a higher temperature, it changes the gas law equation a bit but the end result is still in the upwards of 200,000 PPM

 

Given one tank lasts me 10-14 days, it is not unreasonable to say unleashing an entire tank in a room this size will bump the PPMs up to 215,000

 

 

garyfisher..i am impressed.....i assume this is an attempt to validate your position..well.. i'll want to check your math before i agree..lol..bp

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I love the "super soil" method, there are many different mixes to choose from, not just subcools... Actually he gives Vic High credit for giving him the idea and really teaching him the base of his knowledge for the mix, you might have heard of vic's super soil which I remember learning about from C world. 

 

Really you don't need 6 weeks to cook it, i've had visible beni fungi on my soil after only a week I throw in some unsulfured molasses, and earth juice catalyst to get things cooking faster ...

 

Also if you want to save a ton of money modify the mix...

The way I make my soil is very similar to Subcool's method but instead of using premade high end soil like he suggests i just grab peat and perlite. Instead of adding all the little components I only use the main ones... with the addition of azomite... the bone meal, blood meal, kelp meal, and guano are all you really need... the most important thing is the earth worm castings as it contains the microbes or whatever that start eating up the poop and making it available to your plants don't forget the lime and Epsom salt, also find something with some fungi in it.

 

Now I like this method better because it's cheaper and it leaves room to feed some fairly strong EWC teas (maybe once a week or week and half) as you are growing which has proven to me to yield a bit better then the strong soil mix and just water... An absolute perk of using EWC teas is you have a great food that can be diluted and used as a foliar feed the first few weeks of flower which will make your plants so darn healthy looking you wont believe... just dilute like 1/8 to be safe... it also wards off pests and makes your plants bounce back from any type of stress faster. when i feed my teas I like to add some earth juice oily can as it seems to be a better product then the general organics cal/mag.

 

 

 

Also when if reusing soil or even using any outside soil you're goin to get some fungus gnats at some point Add gnat nix to the top of your soil and you wont ever have a problem... so much better then diatamatious earth and probably cheaper, stuff lasts the entire grow as it doesnt break down...

 

Also i havent really read all the posts but saw something about co2, and I've learned from lots of research that 1500 ppm of co2 is actually more then the class of plant that cannabis is will want... 1200 is max 1500 is an old wives tale.

 

anyway just my .02.

peace

Edited by Broken
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i currently use promix HP for my base...

 

the HP stands for High Porosity.. which means they added 25% more perlite to help the overall soil aeration.

 

i am totally open to any suggestions to a better base alternative.

 

i am aware that it is peat moss based..from Canada.... a non renewable resource... that in itself makes me want to find a suitable replacement....

 

i have been interested in a better option for some time but have failed to be able to procure the time to effectively find and then ultimately recommend one...

 

an American made base soil would be way way better than anything else

mibrains..do you need to "age" K.I.S.S..? i'd hate to have to wait another 6 weeks to do a side by side...i wonder what would happen if you used the kiss nurts with something besides promix..like roots organic's.i've still got.3 bags of roots organic,plus alot of perlite from my hempy buckets,,and some coco core and a ton of fixin's..i could make a hybred of both...then i could sell it in bags and get rich,,lol...maybe i'm on to something.....bp

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Well,... people do not understand how a root grows if they think loading the heavier nute soil on the bottom is right....  It should go on the middle and upper sides. ;-)

 

 Subcools mix has changed a bit over time.

 

 

I would also say there are 'better' mixes than subcools. Not based on quality necessarily,... but based on simplicity and cost.

 

I must agree to a certain extent. I don't like the bottom to be too hot, but I do like it a bit hotter than my regular soil mix.

 

Each plant/strain requires it's own unique mix. I mix mine to each plant's desires and needs. That is why I stick with the same strains. Starting a new strain is a big thing for me. It takes me about a year to hammer down a strains needs perfectly to fit my grow room.

 

I am not the fastest or the best, but I am patient, I watch and learn.

 

I have to agree with the top being a hot mix. As the plants need it, I mix a hot mix and add it to the top. I try to leave at least 6" available at the top of the top of the pot so I can add a hot mix to the top as needed. In flower stage, I don't add any liquid nutes just the hot mix soil.

 

Everybody has their own method that works, but after 15 years of my way working for me, I am not changing.

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I love the "super soil" method, there are many different mixes to choose from, not just subcools... Actually he gives Vic High credit for giving him the idea and really teaching him the base of his knowledge for the mix, you might have heard of vic's super soil which I remember learning about from C world. 

 

Really you don't need 6 weeks to cook it, i've had visible beni fungi on my soil after only a week I throw in some unsulfured molasses, and earth juice catalyst to get things cooking faster ...

 

Also if you want to save a ton of money modify the mix...

The way I make my soil is very similar to Subcool's method but instead of using premade high end soil like he suggests i just grab peat and perlite. Instead of adding all the little components I only use the main ones... with the addition of azomite... the bone meal, blood meal, kelp meal, and guano are all you really need... the most important thing is the earth worm castings as it contains the microbes or whatever that start eating up the poop and making it available to your plants don't forget the lime and Epsom salt, also find something with some fungi in it.

 

Now I like this method better because it's cheaper and it leaves room to feed some fairly strong EWC teas (maybe once a week or week and half) as you are growing which has proven to me to yield a bit better then the strong soil mix and just water... An absolute perk of using EWC teas is you have a great food that can be diluted and used as a foliar feed the first few weeks of flower which will make your plants so darn healthy looking you wont believe... just dilute like 1/8 to be safe... it also wards off pests and makes your plants bounce back from any type of stress faster. when i feed my teas I like to add some earth juice oily can as it seems to be a better product then the general organics cal/mag.

 

anyway just my .02.

 

peace

 thanks for the reply broken,,i've already bought all the fixin's for the super soil and in his video subcool highly recomended using the roots organic's. i wanted to copy the recipe as close as posible to avoid mistakes...these recipes are "water only"and although i'm sure they can be improved,,,i want to keep it simple...but hey, after i get a few organic grows under my belt i'll feel confident enough to try to try to improve the process with spray and tea's..etc..bp

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YOu must have super insects too. I don't know any living thing that can withstand over 100, 000 ppm's and you are at twice that. something is awry. I've done it yearly and seen the results firsthand in my garden. I 've assisted in several c02 killings inside of a container(10kppm) a mattress bag, a garbage bag with a single infested plant too. Not sure what happened, maybe voodoo?

normal outdoor level: 350 - 450 ppm
•acceptable levels: < 600 ppm
•complaints of stiffness and odors: 600 - 1000 ppm
•ASHRAE and OSHA standards: 1000 ppm
•general drowsiness: 1000 - 2500 ppm
•adverse health effects expected: 2500 - 5000 ppm
•maximum allowed concentration within a 8 hour working period: 5000 ppm

The levels above are quite normal and maximum levels may occasionally happen from time to time.

Extreme and Dangerous CO2 Levels
•slightly intoxicating, breathing and pulse rate increase, nausea: 30,000 ppm
•above plus headaches and sight impairment: 50,000 ppm
•unconscious, further exposure death: 100,000 ppm

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"At very high concentrations (100 times atmospheric concentration, or greater), carbon dioxide can be toxic to animal life, so raising the concentration to 10,000 ppm (1%) or higher for several hours will eliminate pests such as whiteflies and spider mites in a greenhouse."

 

"CO2 is an asphyxiant gas and not classified as toxic or harmful in accordance with Globally Harmonized System of Classification and Labelling of Chemicals standards of United Nations Economic Commission for Europe by using the OECD Guidelines for the Testing of Chemicals. In concentrations up to 1% (10,000 ppm), it will make some people feel drowsy.[83] Concentrations of 7% to 10% may cause suffocation, even in the presence of sufficient oxygen, manifesting as dizziness, headache, visual and hearing dysfunction, and unconsciousness within a few minutes to an hour"

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon_dioxide = voodoo lovers

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Also i havent really read all the posts but saw something about co2, and I've learned from lots of research that 1500 ppm of co2 is actually more then the class of plant that cannabis is will want... 1200 is max 1500 is an old wives tale.

 

anyway just my .02.

peace

this is true ! we must consider though that the plant outside, every square centimeter of every surface is refreshed with new carbon dioxide to breathe all day and all night non stop. This type of movement in an indoor room coupled with proper distribution like outdoors provides, is nearly impossible. My room is not sealed like a time capsule, just a room not using outside air is all. It has a closed insulated door, and keeps the c02 for many hours until cycling again. This 1500 ppm setting actually keeps only a fraction of this amount available to every plant surface. The outdoor air exchange/movement vs the indoor one is the key. Bumpng up to 1500ppm insures that they are getting what they want. I've grown with half the amount, and twice the amount, indoors and in greenhouses and settled on the wives tale of 1500ppm setting. 400ppm, just like the outdoor ambient air, would be sufficient for proper growth, IF it could be refreshed every second like outdoors. Also the levels at the top of a room are very different than the levels at the bottom even with fans and wicked circulation. Earth is a bit different while the c02 is 400 at ground level and at 10 feet higher.

I've grown in the same room for months with ZERO c02 augmentation and only limited outdoor air with no issues. then I added c02 and witness my plants metabolism increase, healthier refractometer readings, and faster finishes with much more expression. I knew I was on to something, like Jorge told me in the first place.

Edited by grassmatch
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this is true ! we must consider though that the plant outside, every square centimeter of every surface is refreshed with new carbon dioxide to breathe all day and all night non stop. This type of movement in an indoor room coupled with proper distribution like outdoors provides, is nearly impossible. My room is not sealed like a time capsule, just a room not using outside air is all. It has a closed insulated door, and keeps the c02 for many hours until cycling again. This 1500 ppm setting actually keeps only a fraction of this amount available to every plant surface. The outdoor air exchange/movement vs the indoor one is the key. Bumpng up to 1500ppm insures that they are getting what they want. I've grown with half the amount, and twice the amount, indoors and in greenhouses and settled on the wives tale of 1500ppm setting.

I've grown in the same room for months with ZERO c02 augmentation and only limited outdoor air with no issues. then I added c02 and witness my plants metabolism increase, healthier refractometer readings, and faster finishes with much more expression. I knew I was on to something, like Jorge told me in the first place.

Nice, I was at 1500 at first which was to high for me personally, but my conditions probably weren't as dialed in as yours so when i dropped to 1200 i saw an increase of plant health.

 

I want to add that my co2 controller is a cheaper model and only has 3 settings 1000, 1250, and 1500 my room is quite small ( a tank lasts me like 2 weeks at 1250 ppm.) so everyone's experience will be different. If my controller is acurate and kicks on whenever my co2 level drops below 1250 then i'm probably really running closer to 1500 at times. 

 

Good to talk about these things it's a learning experience.

 

peace

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YOu must have super insects too. I don't know any living thing that can withstand over 100, 000 ppm's and you are at twice that. something is awry. I've done it yearly and seen the results firsthand in my garden. I 've assisted in several c02 killings inside of a container(10kppm) a mattress bag, a garbage bag with a single infested plant too. Not sure what happened, maybe voodoo?

 

normal outdoor level: 350 - 450 ppm

•acceptable levels: < 600 ppm

•complaints of stiffness and odors: 600 - 1000 ppm

•ASHRAE and OSHA standards: 1000 ppm

•general drowsiness: 1000 - 2500 ppm

•adverse health effects expected: 2500 - 5000 ppm

•maximum allowed concentration within a 8 hour working period: 5000 ppm

 

The levels above are quite normal and maximum levels may occasionally happen from time to time.

 

Extreme and Dangerous CO2 Levels

•slightly intoxicating, breathing and pulse rate increase, nausea: 30,000 ppm

•above plus headaches and sight impairment: 50,000 ppm

•unconscious, further exposure death: 100,000 ppm

 

I like that.

 

Me personally, I have not had to deal with super insect problems aside from my one encounter with spider mites. This was due to accepting a clone from an outside source. Never will I do that again!

 

I do however run into minor bug issues. Living in the woods it is to be expected. I would also assume some of the bugs come in the soil I purchase.

 

Normally it is not a big problem. I will simply hang some Hot Shotz in the room when I am not flowering. (No pesticides during flower at all). 

 

I like what you are saying, I am equipping my grow room with CO2 fully controllable without effecting my household. Completely sealed so I should be able to terminate any future bugs with CO2 along with benefiting my plants. http://michiganmedicalmarijuana.org/blog/532/entry-840-2000-watt-custom-cooled-closet-and-more/#commentsStart

I have a lot more work to do, but I am going to finish it.

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most people would be surprised to know how high your indoor c02 actually is. I can raise mine noticeably with a half hour of labor inside. No worries of a leak or something like that really. Its not a poison gas, its what we exhale all day and night.

I use a 20 pound tank of propane to produce 12 hours of 1500ppm's in a 12x40 room divided by a light lock curtain. The 20# propane last me 30 days using my liquid cooled generator or 25 days using my pilot lit four burner generator, my preferred method now.

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garyfisher..i am impressed.....i assume this is an attempt to validate your position..well.. i'll want to check your math before i agree..lol..bp

no matter the forum, each time I mention the organic viable alternative to store poisons there's always growers who "tried" it and found for whatever reason that it didn't work for them. Physics are easier to understand than math to me. Exhale into a bag and inhale the results. You will be dead in minutes in a no brainer fashion. I learned about it decades ago in the greenhouse biz. I experimented with meters inside plastic bags filled with c02 and saw fast results. Note that a single burning flame will eventually produce enough c02 to kill you, and everything else that needs oxygen to survive. Then, like moth to a flame, growers start popping up that have or do practice the same with dead bugs resulting. Its definitely cheaper and easier to let a fogger go or spray some chemical for sure, but I was driven by organics.

I suspect the culprit to be mathematical, or physical. If the room is not relatively sealed the c02 will escape quickly. Its not an "eyeball" operation, but neither is growing medical marijuana. There are thousands of c02 fumigation practices worldwide that keep our consumer products free of insects during production and storage. Google list millions of successful c02 fumigation for pests and a few growers who ay it doesn't work. you can be the judge, stay organic for the win! think outside of the box for the upper hand!

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I picked this up for 35. Its about 10 gals of soil.

IMG1122_zpsc94c9ccd.jpg

I've been paying 42 bucks a bag for this and  24 bucks a bag for the potting soil ONLY bag in Flint on Miller Road at Galactics Gardens. 10 bag purchases get you a discount of 10% or 15%...I can't remember. This soil is produced by Dioxide of TGA and Sub gets a small stiphend from each bag. Sub advises that the best way to produce is to make your own. That is my next step as you have total control. The bagged soil is really good as well as expensive.

 

Seeds into rapid rooters then transplanted to 1 gal 10 or so days. From the 1gal I go straight into a 10 gal pot at day 30 or so. Veg another 30 days and then flowered.

 

It was my first and I couldn't be more satisfied with the effort...It produced my first pt! I have pics if someone will advise how...the best way to post safely.

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mibrains..do you need to "age" K.I.S.S..? i'd hate to have to wait another 6 weeks to do a side by side...i wonder what would happen if you used the kiss nurts with something besides promix..like roots organic's.i've still got.3 bags of roots organic,plus alot of perlite from my hempy buckets,,and some coco core and a ton of fixin's..i could make a hybred of both...then i could sell it in bags and get rich,,lol...maybe i'm on to something.....bp

 

no waiting required.

 

you can let it age as long as you would like but i usually use it right out of the mixer....

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no matter the forum, each time I mention the organic viable alternative to store poisons there's always growers who "tried" it and found for whatever reason that it didn't work for them. Physics are easier to understand than math to me. Exhale into a bag and inhale the results. You will be dead in minutes in a no brainer fashion. I learned about it decades ago in the greenhouse biz. I experimented with meters inside plastic bags filled with c02 and saw fast results. Note that a single burning flame will eventually produce enough c02 to kill you, and everything else that needs oxygen to survive. Then, like moth to a flame, growers start popping up that have or do practice the same with dead bugs resulting. Its definitely cheaper and easier to let a fogger go or spray some chemical for sure, but I was driven by organics.

I suspect the culprit to be mathematical, or physical. If the room is not relatively sealed the c02 will escape quickly. Its not an "eyeball" operation, but neither is growing medical marijuana. There are thousands of c02 fumigation practices worldwide that keep our consumer products free of insects during production and storage. Google list millions of successful c02 fumigation for pests and a few growers who ay it doesn't work. you can be the judge, stay organic for the win! think outside of the box for the upper hand!

If there is always growers who have tried this method and report it doesn't work, what does that say?

There is also a google list millions of unsuccessful CO2 fumigation stories.

 

Also note, I mentioned I use a CO2 monitor.  When I visited the room the next day, the level of CO2 was still too high for the monitor to report.  It was not an issue of not enough CO2 or CO2 escaping the room.  This was a 12 hour fumigation.  It didn't work.  I personally know one other grower who has tried this with the same result.

Breathing into a bag of a sealed system is not equivalent to fumigating with CO2.  Remember, there are plants in that room and plants produce oxygen. 

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I know of more than a dozen growers, including myself yearly who have used this technique with great success. what does that say?

I have nothing to gain sharing my success. I really don't care why it didn't work for a few but is currently used by greenhouses and growers worldwide. voodoo maybe. its all good. but you should hold that it didn't work for you, not that it doesn't work at all and I will hold that it did work for me as stated, but it does not work for some indoor marijuana growers= reasons unknown but I agree it did not work for you, sorry for that.

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I can instantly raise the c02 in my room with tanks, or with time, use my generator. In no time at all the ppm is over 10k and the o2 meter sounds alarms and air breathing bugs die. spiders curl up and fall from the ceilings. I have seen soil bugs survive this however, but not a living crawling flying bug anywhere but on the floor, dead and dying fast.the plants do not save them in my rooms, or in my known growers' rooms/bags.

 

I wonder of the parameter of your meter, for instance if it reads up to 1500ppm like most grow room meters?

 

you'll need to explain the science behind anything surviving 200,000 ppm of c02 for more than a short period.

Edited by grassmatch
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voodoo maybe. its all good. but you should hold that it didn't work for you, not that it doesn't work at all and I will hold that it did work for me as stated, but it does not work for some indoor marijuana growers= reasons unknown but I agree it did not work for you, sorry for that.

 

My personal experience with this is that it doesn't work.

I believe that is what I stated.  I didn't say it doesn't work.

 

 

 

you'll need to explain the science behind anything surviving 200,000 ppm of c02 for more than a short period.

 

 

Simple.  regardless of the concentration of CO2, O2 is still present in the room; if there are plants in the room, O2 is being generated, correct? Or is your opinion that there is 0ppm of O2 available? 

 

Citing the toxicity of CO2 to mammals is moot point.  Mammals and larger insects contain respiratory systems, containing organs, to mobilize O2.  The larger the animal, the greater the O2 requirement.  While Mites belong to the Animalia family, their Class is Arthropods, meaning they have an exoskeleton.  Mites do not contain lungs or complex organs like humans and dogs.  In fact, their internal structure is VERY simple. 

Arthropod_body_struct_01.pngHere is the basic body structure of an Arthropod.

Mites are less than 1MM in size, giving them a very large surface area(SA) to volume(V) ratio (opposite of humans).  Because of their large SA/V ratio, O2 can diffuse into any part of their tiny body; not having to travel far to do it.  This is a process called simple diffusion and is an equilibrium.

In addition to the diffusion of O2, the requirement for O2 in a mite is very small, like their size.  I don't think it has been quantified but I am predicting mites only need a few molecules(less than 10ppm) of O2 per day to live successfully.

 

Thus, to kill the mite, oxygen must not be present, which is the mechanism of ORGANIC insecticidal oils and soap sprays.  Do you think that by boosting CO2 to high levels that somehow the oxygen is depleted?

 

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yes. you can experiment with your own tank in a plastic bag with a meter, then stick a mite infested plant in the bag with it. use a meter that doesn't top out at 1500ppm and get an accurate result to report. you'll see. even the mite egg needs to breathe albeit through its shell. C02 most definitely displaces oxygen. that's the whole point my friend.

 

good mite info btw ;)

Edited by grassmatch
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How to Destroy Spider Mites By using Co2

 

Posted on April 29, 2012 by spidermitehater

 

 

Just what is C02 incisively?Co2 is an really common, genuinely occouring gas in the atmosphere. The truth is, C02 makes up anywhere between 310 and 450 PPM of your environment virtually allabout you! It truly is a pure, colorless, oderless, non-poisnoius, chemical compound.certainly are a fairly normal object inside the indoor and / orcold frame Grows. This can be critical given that utilizing tanks of Co2 gas can be very expensive as well as very likely unmanageable depending upon a person’s green house dimension.C02 Devices make Carbon dioxide simply by burning a clean fuel, such as Propane and / or LNG. Once all of these clean energy sources are consumed they can release only two elements

Co2- currently the unique targeted product

 

Water Vapor- this can be a GREAT!!! next benefit from Generation devices.

Because it’s

natural and organic, as well as non-poisonious, it is usually ordinarily regarded by gardeners as being ticket for Spider mite management.To firmly top it off, Taking advantage of Carbon dioxide to actually kill spider mites is extremely simple and economical.

 

Precisely why utilize C02 to actually slay spider mites?

 

It is a frequent question around the world wide web. Exactly how must i employ my carbon dioxide to demolish spider mites inside my interior grow room? It truly works!-not breathing absolutely eradicates thingsIT’S EASY! -set your regular Co2 monitor and walk way for 1 hour IT’S Low-priced! – propane vessel exchanges cost about twenty bucks. A single “Treatment method” will only make use of almost $2-3 worth of propane can certainly reach the 10,000-15,000 parts per million (ppm), for60 minutes, that will be encouraged to destroy off the insects in yourgrow environment.While it could be stated that in fact Co2 is non-poisonious, it will cause death. It’ll do this by thinning out the amount of oxygen in the air, being a percentage. This technique smothers the victim, leaving no lingering residue on yourequipment, like bug bombs and what spray can.In addition every of your crops is going to Benefit from the Co2 rich situation. They shall do well.

 

Tips on how to destroy spider mites utilizing Carbon dioxide guidelines:

 

Guarantee that your Room is sealed as well as achievable. Almost any leakages will contribute exhausted carbon dioxide.

 

Put your regular Co2 part per million indicator to 12,000 part per million. In case your meter does not possess that large of a scope, you are able to do the mathematics utilizing a calculator here.

In case your Co2 Gauge can consent to the settings, flip it on and certainly go away foran hour. In the event that your old gauge wont acknowledge the configuration, Work out the C02 required to 15,000 part per million. It should adjust for air leakages inside the room.

 

Switch on Generator with regard to period of time required by calculator.When the60 minutes comes to an end.

 

Flip exhaust systems on BEFORE entering the grow room. Let all of these ventilators run for about30 minutes.You now may enter the space.

 

Do it again in 5 days.

 

This could clear up your spider mite challenge permanently.A note of suggestion how to actually killspider mites with Co2 Please use caution when using C02 to kill spider mites. C02 can devastate you in case you are not careful. Its highly advised that you truly have a friend assist when following through with this venture. Make certain that only one person goes into the room at a time, just simply in situations when the Carbon dioxide level is higher than predicted.This atmosphere will likely make you drained and go to sleep. Then you certainly would Pass on. If you start to actually be worn-out while you are by use of this system you ought to Straightaway get OUTSIDE. Breathe the oxygen.I hope this approach solves your Spider Mite concerns.

 

theweedblog;

"Releasing a full container of carbon dioxide into a sealed grow set-up will kill all mites and insects. But, don’t be in the room while the CO2 is being released! It would be enough to KILL YOU! I have seen this technique of bringing the CO2 to 10,000 ppm for 15 minutes to kill all pests. You must vent out the CO2 before entering the room. Two applications, five days apart, will kill all mites, pests and their offspring."

 

I learned to avoid mites from day one so I saved a fortune in propane gas. It cost me a one time investment in Jorge Cervantes book and worked 100%. I know others who also swore by the book, but still got mites, molds, and issues I haven't seen. luck or fluke? could be.

Edited by grassmatch
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Seriously, if this worked, there wouldn't be a market for pest killing products. People spend HUNDREDS of dollars on mighty wash alone.  This technique is totall bullsh!t.  You can't even refute my explanation, you can only regurgitate what other people say. 

Does your brain somehow think that oxygen all of a sudden disappears when you generate CO2?  Plants turn CO2 into O2, hello!!!!!!!!!!!! Earth to grassbrains.

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you sir are a witless twit. Name calling like a swirled little gym boy. Look at the history of the technique, its age old, and not meant for the ignorant obviously. I am done with you and your rant. You attempted to attack me weeks ago and it proved to be futile. Your stalking is based in your ignorance and fear. continue on helping this op build proper soil. I'll let him know ow to avoid pests, you can tell him how to poison them.

 

good day.

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They sell it at a store in Flint, I guess I thought it was everywhere. I only picked it up because they were out of M3 soil. The M3 works just as good IMO its $5 cheaper and a local company. I'm to lazy to do all that mixing and waiting. :)

 

I found the M3 locally for $26 a bag.  I do not have the space nor the inclination at this time to mix my own soil.

I have thus far had epic fails in my attempt to grow with pro mix + amendments both chem and organic.

I am hoping the M3 will help me get to harvest this time :)

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