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Vaping Co2 Preparations


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I mostly plunge my 25 watt ceramic Hakko directly into a shot glass puddle of this

  which is a fresh preparation of flowers.
 
but when I take the trouble to make this
    I find my Eclipse is my preference. I never got around to calling one or the other "decarb'd" but essentially this one is aged like fine wine, as you can see, and I'm believing what you say about the differences. Both are awesome to me, this one is a treat I don't take for granted.
 
I stopped using the Eclipse for my daily dosing because........the degradation from the first hit to the last hit bums me out, and I just don't have the patience to load one hitters into glass vials, unless of course its shatter time....

 

 

copy and paisted pics!

 

Peace

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Man I lit a torch up to clean up the corners of my glass baking pan I always extract into and it took less than a min and the hole thing just shattered all over me!  I dont use torches for anything any longer lol!

 

Peace

Place your glass pan in a larger pan of water when doing this and it will not break. Always a solution ..... for a problem.

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I freeze the pyrex and scrape with a razor blade if I think there are remnants to be gained. Iso to make it sparkly clean again after.

I use an alcohol that I distlled once to clean/capture. Then I know I can distill it ALL off of what I used it to clean/capture off, leaving a clean product. 

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Now that is what I am talking about. This is how I can relate. You show me yours after I show you mine. ;)  Then we can understand better where we each are coming from.

 

It is even worse with a heat decarbed concentrate. That is like starting in the middle. The first couple of hits are cool, but after that it is downhill. With fresh QWISO and QWET it is pretty awesome almost to the end.

 

Nice looking stash you got there.

 

Little new info. I believe that we have discovered that the concentrate being in a more liquid state highly aids in the natural decarbing to its fullest ability and more quickly. It seems to be easier for the product to create and release the CO2. This is based upon feedback I have received elsewhere.

 

If you choose to sample naturally decarbed concentrate in the future, try keeping it in more of a liquid state and see how it compares.

 

Thanks, I enjoy seeing nice pictures.

That is not a pic of his oil, he would never put a pic of anything of his on here, he would never write you at your email acct and he would never call you on the phone if you gave them your phone number, resto is the same, they are both full of chit!

 

Peace

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what the hell are you talking about?

 

I lightened up(perhaps because of your rant?) and actually posted some of my own pics, and those two are most definitely mine. I would not lie about that. if they were not, I would say something like " wow! that's some really clean looking dabbage there"  good job!

 

some here may even recognize those pics as they used to be up in my gallery before I refreshed it.

 

troll on my pics?

accuse me of lying about ownership?

privacy is important to most.

 

This is the perfect example of why I would not share personal info with an avatar on a marijuana forum.

 

anyone else thinks it risky to share addresses, real names, house pics?   geesh, maybe I'm old school?

 

what gives man?

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Place your glass pan in a larger pan of water when doing this and it will not break. Always a solution ..... for a problem.

I had been using this pyrex pan for yrs lol, It was sitting here with alot of oil in the rounded corners, and I was kinda feening for some oil, so I figured I would heat the corners and get it down in the bottom and scrape it out and use it,,,my dreams were shattered in like a minute, I have chunks of glass burned into my man cave carpet lol, im still cleaning glass up, that thing literaly exploded in my hand,,,,like I said it had been at least a month since my last extraction when I did this, I can stop laughing about it, I learned something lmao!

 

another time I had done an extraction and all of the liquid butane was gone (according to what you could see with your eyes)  I was scrapping the pan clean and I lit my liter to clean off my razor that I was scrapping with, and it lit it on fire and dropped into the pan,,,,,,bawahahahahahaha,,,,,now I had a pyrex on fire,,,,,,,who ya gonna call?  hash oil busters!!!!!  I quickly put a towel over it and it went out imediatly, did I learn something?  OH BOY I LEARNED SOMETHING!

 

Peace

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I'll use this as a nice reference. Thank you for taking the time to type all of that out, if I use a broad stroke viscosity would you be willing to recommend your preferred unit? I would like to have more models to research and ponder.

 

Thin (they make a 50/50 mix which is made for e-cig type 16% or so for mid-day vaping without getting loopy)

Medium (I think this is what the Co2 would classify as)

Thick (I reckon this would be more of a home brew consistency)

Shatter - Crumble - Jelly?

 

So you're putting the lighter right to the tank? I thought about that but my tank is plastic. I am going to take a ride into the danger zone and try a fourth oil in this tank though. It is working too darn well to throw it away.

 

It is just as difficult as the other question about ohms.

 

The preferred unit varies with the solvent used to extract, thickness of the mix, what you choose to thin the concentrate with, and whether you want large tanks or a stealthy pen set up.

 

I like all of the AeroTanks that I mentioned. I guess my first favorite would be the AeroTank Mini with a 1.5 ohm bottom fed coil using a mixture of concentrate, PEG400 NF/USP, and a drop or two of NF Organic flavoring. The AeroTank Mini does pretty well with thicker mixtures. The PEG400 NF/USP is thicker than the PG USP. The PG USP can be more harsh when used in the glass/stainless steel units. It is the cannabis causing the throat burn, not the PG USP. The reason I know this is that when I use my e-cigg mix with PG USP, the AeroTank Mini is so smooth I cannot even tell I am getting a hit. PG USP aids in the cannabis absorbing into the tissue and is most likely why it causes the throat burn and for some reason it is worse with glass units vs. plastic. The PEG400 seems to be better with the glass units, but I highly recommend to add flavoring. The mix with the PEG400 is more professional looking like a clean gel, can't really explain it. You can make it whatever flavor you want with the organic flavorings. I have links in my blog to the organic flavorings. 

 

Second favorite in a sense, if I was looking for the actual flavor of the concentrate to where I can taste the strain would be a top fed unit. At the most 50/50 mixture with PG USP. I prefer more cannabis oil. All I could taste was my oil using the iClear30 with the 2.0-2.1 ohm coil. I could precisely regulate the power going to the coils with the innokin SVD mod.

 

It also depends on what mood I am in and what I am looking for. Sometimes I prefer to use the AeroTank Mega. The AeroTank coils will work in all of the AeroTank models. When I use PG USP with the Mega, I think I prefer the 2.0 ohm coil.

 

For me, I am starting to get away from the standard flavorings. I am switching to essential oils for flavor. Like frankincense, it works as a goof flavor, and it seems to aid in the product vaporizing. So far I have only added it to my e-cigg juice. Frankincense is biblical and know to cure all sorts of ailments. You have to make sure you are getting 100% pure extract though. I am going to add frankincense to my next batch of e-cannabis oil. Cannabis is not the only medicinal plant on this earth.

 

Edit: Added Photo

 

Here is an iClear30 on the SVD.

SVD with I30 9 1 13 158

QWISO BBJ 190  SVD 12 12 13 032

QWISO BBJ 190  SVD 12 12 13 031

 

With alcohol concentrates using PG USP the mixture will separate. It usually takes a few weeks. The wicks in the unit aids in the separation. When using PEG400 and an alcohol concentrate it does not separate. If you are going to consume it in a reasonable amount of time there shouldn't be much to worry about as long as you are not adding Vegetable Glycerine. I have heard of people using homogenizers and the mixture stays infused more permanently.

 

Don't underestimate the AeroTank Mega (bottom fed), also attached to the SVD.

KangerTech Mega No flash 6 14 14 025

KangerTech Mega 6 6 14 029

 

Edited by GrowGoddess
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  • 2 months later...

Even then, you can't vape it all up without it eventually choking you. 

 

I think I'm understanding the problem now. If you winterize the oil the hits will be smoother. You can make it so smooth you don't even cough. 

 

 

Seeing those pictures I posted above, those were not winterized. They worked great in the Eclipse.

 

RSO or heat decarbed oil, winterized or not, at least my oil, the effects were the same. Chemistry and science. It has something to do with it already being decarbed, a little too much heat and it causes somewhat of a burnt effect because it is already decarbed, that is why it is more sensitive. I have tried my most clean RSO, that was winterized, and same issue. The winterized RSO looks just as clean as the pictures in my above post.

 

I admit, with the RSO, you can get a more premium flavor from it in the Eclipse, but is not nearly as efficient and more difficult.

 

Why would you want to decarb the oil, then reheat it again to consume it? That no longer makes sense to me. I guess you could say it is double decarbing, which easily leads to burning the product. I have only been using my Eclipse since 2010 and I have not ran out of oil since. I am pretty confident.

 

If it works great for you, all the power to ya.

 

No problems here, just personal preference :D

 

Well, I guess I proved myself right that a heat decarbed oil in an eclipse does not work so well. I just tried the ND Sap, naturally decarbed extracted with 200 proof ethyl, remember, no heat whatsoever with good, fresh, dry, premium ganja buds. After naturally decarbing, I let it finish evaporating and it stayed in a liquid form. A thinner final product than any extraction I have done. I would guess it is that way for a number of reasons. I believe it is due to the additional terpenes. There is no sign of solvent being left behind. I tried it in the eclipse vape first (keep in mind it is fully naturally decarbed). It was like no other oil I have used the eclipse with. The RSO was real good, but difficult and wasteful. QWISO was really good, easy, but still kind of wasteful. The ND Sap, made the way I described, goes perfectly with the eclipse. It is extra liquid, put in 1/4 gram or so, be very gentle with the heat, and you get an invisible vape of terpenes. The buzz is extremely different, you don't want to stop because it is so good. After vaping off all of the terpenes, you keep adding more heat to get the THC to vape. Eventually it won't even boil, but it turns back to a full liquid when applying the torch and won't burn. It maintains excellent vapor draws, even with the additional heat from the flame. I have never used an oil in my eclipse that reacted that way. Normally it burns. So far the efficiency of it is great! By far the best I have tried in my eclipse, like they are meant to be used together. Different oils work best with different vapes and techniques.

 

I have been enjoying my eclipse to a whole new level.

 

Those joints are still sitting there, no good to me as long as I have good oil to stick in the vape! :D

eclipse Et Al 5 15 15 011

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oh alright then, send those joints to me hun. :wub:

 

after re reading the nd sap info I believe I've been naturally decarbing from the start.

I don't heat the mj, and I don't heat the oil for recovery. for a quick reclaim 105f is sweet, no loss that I know of.

But typical is a "near the heater" over night reclaim, and that tank with oil is around 78f. I love my eclipse, but only really LOVE those first few beautiful earth soul

connecting draws, the ones with fairies hiding in the gentle vapors.

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  • 2 months later...

Never had problem with CO2 being too thick to flow back down to wick. RSO is too thick for e-pens unless diluted. The purpose of the 2 oils are different, personally speaking.

 

CO2 oil is for vaporization and combustion methods of consumption. Raw cannabis contains non-psychoactive THCA. Eating it may have some medicinal benefit but no buzz.  The heat removes one carbon molecule which is the decarboxylate process to create THC for psychoactive effect.

 

RSO oil is good for oral consumption since it has already decarbed during the solvent purge process.  I use alcohol that I reflux distill myself to wash the flowers. Purge takes place in an air-cooled distiller so I reclaim most of the alcohol making for a more modestly priced finished product. Heat is controlled so minimal degradation of THC.

 

After reading the previous comments I need to urge people to use the term "decarboxylate" properly. Natural decarboxylate via storage time is myth. THCA degrades to CBN over time or exposure to light. If you're seeking sleep, yes, use old product for lots of CBN. Aging, or storage over time of your cannabis product does not cause THCA to become THC. After all, I want to kick only one carbon molecule off the chain. You can't storage degrade one carbon molecule only without degrading all of them. Degraded is different than decarboxylated. 

 

Regarding, how often does one replace a tank? Whenever it breaks.

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Never had problem with CO2 being too thick to flow back down to wick. RSO is too thick for e-pens unless diluted. The purpose of the 2 oils are different, personally speaking.

 

CO2 oil is for vaporization and combustion methods of consumption. Raw cannabis contains non-psychoactive THCA. Eating it may have some medicinal benefit but no buzz.  The heat removes one carbon molecule which is the decarboxylate process to create THC for psychoactive effect.

 

RSO oil is good for oral consumption since it has already decarbed during the solvent purge process.  I use alcohol that I reflux distill myself to wash the flowers. Purge takes place in an air-cooled distiller so I reclaim most of the alcohol making for a more modestly priced finished product. Heat is controlled so minimal degradation of THC.

 

After reading the previous comments I need to urge people to use the term "decarboxylate" properly. Natural decarboxylate via storage time is myth. THCA degrades to CBN over time or exposure to light. If you're seeking sleep, yes, use old product for lots of CBN. Aging, or storage over time of your cannabis product does not cause THCA to become THC. After all, I want to kick only one carbon molecule off the chain. You can't storage degrade one carbon molecule only without degrading all of them. Degraded is different than decarboxylated. 

 

Regarding, how often does one replace a tank? Whenever it breaks.

At 1:23 in video explains it. It wouldn't be the THC that some reporting here would expect. It would be non psycho active. So if you are getting a 'buzz' from it then it's not what you think it is.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g79HokJTfPU

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Old oil, old buds = old school old weed effects. droopy eyed couch lock duh, for me.

 

Tobacco was "cured" to degrade the fertilizers in the plant before consumption, making it a smoother experience. This fertilizer is applied to the very last day before harvest for though. nobody does that wit medical cannabis.

Since 2008 I've met no patient that preferred cannabis harvested two months ago vs last week.   "drying" methods, atmosphere controls in the dry room, light, etc makes a difference in the quality of dried product and would report different results if not utilized .  Like using the garden space to dry or  using a controlled space to dry. One drying space produces different results than the other. The product dried in the grow room would take much longer to dry, would taste different, burn different, and ultimately have different effects in my experience. Maybe "curing" that product would make it better? Just like cannabis can be grown in a crawl space, it can be dried in a grow room too, but then the advise given to do either would differ than advice given to grow in an equipped grow room and dry in an equipped drying room.

 

The growers I know that prefer "curing" in jars for months, also dried in less than ideal spaces, fertilized like crazy, lacked a proper flush in hydro, experienced mold often, and their buds tasted like pissee pocket weed of the 80's(fermented?)  just saying. I like fresh terpene profiles, so do my patients.

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maybe the freezing halts the degradation/decarboxylation ? that would be something useful.

I froze my plant material and while useable it was still "old" but that's vegetable matter not oil, so not apples to oranges really. not objective of either, and it was "that one time too. maybe I'll look into this again...

 

interesting for sure, thanks

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Never had problem with CO2 being too thick to flow back down to wick. RSO is too thick for e-pens unless diluted. The purpose of the 2 oils are different, personally speaking.

 

CO2 oil is for vaporization and combustion methods of consumption. Raw cannabis contains non-psychoactive THCA. Eating it may have some medicinal benefit but no buzz.  The heat removes one carbon molecule which is the decarboxylate process to create THC for psychoactive effect.

 

RSO oil is good for oral consumption since it has already decarbed during the solvent purge process.  I use alcohol that I reflux distill myself to wash the flowers. Purge takes place in an air-cooled distiller so I reclaim most of the alcohol making for a more modestly priced finished product. Heat is controlled so minimal degradation of THC.

 

After reading the previous comments I need to urge people to use the term "decarboxylate" properly. Natural decarboxylate via storage time is myth. THCA degrades to CBN over time or exposure to light. If you're seeking sleep, yes, use old product for lots of CBN. Aging, or storage over time of your cannabis product does not cause THCA to become THC. After all, I want to kick only one carbon molecule off the chain. You can't storage degrade one carbon molecule only without degrading all of them. Degraded is different than decarboxylated. 

 

Regarding, how often does one replace a tank? Whenever it breaks.

 

How rude! 

 

For one, THCa converts to THC. It is THC that when degraded, converts to CBN. Get your facts straight!

 

I pretty much disagree with everything you have said. Natural decarbing or shall I say to suit your need, decarboxylation, is no myth, it is fact. I am making that statement from experience, scientific data sheets, and from herbatology books as well as essential oil books.

 

So what you are saying is that the specialists who wrote the books and myself are living in a myth? I don't think so, I belive it be you who lacks experience and have retreived your information from unreliable sources.

 

With the CO2 oil, all of the blogs I have seen producing said oil step-by-step, it did not come out like an oil but a thick paste. Then said paste was diluted with alcohol and winterized. After that process, it looked like oil. I have only seen 2 or 3 examples, but, they all looked the same. Maybe yours is extra runny because it still has alcohol in it.

 

The naturally decarboxylated oil is extra runny due to the existance of the terpenes in which some are similar to alcohol, they evaporate easily. 

 

Since stumbling upon naturally decarbed oil, that is all I will take from now on. I suppose you would tell me that I have not really been feeling effects from the ND Sap because I am living in a myth, that I am not really feeling the effects, but just think that I am, for the past 2 years now. I will assure you, that you are mistaken.

 

I am guessing you have not seen my blog. http://michiganmedicalmarijuana.org/blog/532/entry-1098-rso-qwiso-qwet-and-naturally-decarbed-sap-tincture-concentrates-and-other-essential-plant-oils-by-grow-goddess/I have had several people report back that they have had similar experiences with naturally decarbing. All they use is oil. I would leave a link, but do not wish to offend the Admin.

 

As for naturally decarbed bud, you are 100% wrong. 6 month old Space Dawg, stored in an air tight container, in a cool dark place, not opened until ready to use;  eat a half joint worth and tell me you didn't get stoned. It kept me stoned for 24 hours. Smoking it is wastefull compared to eating it if it happens to be naturally decarbed.

 

 

Some strains when naturally decarbed are superior, even when it comes to smoking it. The flavanoids also go through a decarb process which adds to the flavor. With other strains, there is not a noticeable improvement. I prefer to smoke those strains 2 weeks fresh.

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Forgive me admins, but peer pressure got the best of me! :D (I will only put up one link)

 

Here is the most recent of the conversation. http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/naturally-decarbed-concentrates-best-yet.14928/page-5#post-831000

 

I could also add another site where Grey Wolf and I spoke, and he also agrees with the outcome of the natural decarbing and keeping the terpenes. That discussion was at ICMag. I have had other discussions with positive feedback on other sites as well.

 

 

I am not saying that it is easy to do the natural decarbing method. It takes patience. I don't have a best method mastered, yet, but all I will use from now on is ND Sap.

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Keep in mind this can work different for different patients.

 

The science of chemical composition doesn't account for the variances we see from one patient to the next. 

 

You can't pinpoint the human results of a cannabis oil by it's elements and how they are structured. 

 

There's simply more to it than that, which does translate into differing opinions and observed results. 

 

It's best to first look at your results as a 'one off' rather than something that can be repeated all the time by everyone. 

 

You might have something fairly unique going on and don't even understand exactly how you did it. 

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