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If you ever had to change your scedule like that, it is possible.I have done it twice, without any negetive effect. It will not hurt for them to sit in the dark for a day. You are not disrupting them in the dark, you are mearly resetting their day. I can't speak for all situations, but in my case, there was no negetive effect

I have run them all, differences are negligible. I run 24 on, but do notice that some strains show a bit a bit of stress. 18/6 I feel you get slightly slower growth, but happy plants. 20/4 you get the best growth and happy plants. I don't like using timers, because they can fail, so I run 24on. Make the decision based on what you want. Lower electric?, Go with 18/6. Faster growth, either 24 on or 20/4, these 2 are very close, if you want to mess with a timer, 20/4 is probably best. Again, differences are SMALL, pick one

Very carefully monitor ph and nute strength in what you feed them. Fans for strong stalks. Flavor? That is what it is depending on the strain. Just grow them healthy.

Yeah, I would estimate between 400-600 a month at the dispensary. Always hit and miss. Cheap meds are around. Either low shelf or tainted. I'm no caregiver, but if I was able to dispense, it be at least 180 a zip. After I harvest, i start with medicating with about 1 zip a week. Then the tolerance builds...then it's 1 and a half, and so on. That's why I like to alternate strains quickly. Catch them hoes like pokemon! Oh, and I have a metal rod in my leg, so I always stay medicated. Because like, even walking hurts. LOL. Don't even get me started on stairs.

Since you only have one shot at it, keep an eye on how long she(they) stretches. If she stretches for a month or so, you'll likely have a longer flowering plant. If she stops vertical growth around 3 weeks, you'll prolly finish around 8 weeks. Just a reference, and not a guarantee. Plants can surprise you sometimes.

i just switched to rockwool for the first time ever in 14 years. It's a lot cheaper than rapid rooters for me and I get the same results. Make sure the cubes stay moist. Roots within 14 days. I also use a heat mat.

It needs higher than 76% humidity?!? That's crazy!

Not going to change schedule, just going to open up the tent during the day to keep the temp inside the tent the same as in the building. Usually the hottest it gets in the garden shed is 78-80. I am going to be building a actual room in the building so I don't have the height issue I have with the tent. I will insulate and make it a very sanitary environment. I can also put a small window air conditioner to cool it in the dog days. Already starting to work on it.

You need to ride it out and just start the next grow at 7pm every night your playing with fire messing with light schedules.

Using that A/c should suck out a bunch of humidity in the room too.

Ok, opened both doors to the tent and in 10 minutes the temp went down 4 degrees from 86 to 82 degrees. Also the humidity went down.

That would cause stress. You don't want that unless it's absolutely necessary. Figure out a way to get more air movement. Open up the tent. What did you do before when it was hot? Why is it hotter now?

One thing I would add to the above video is to scrape some of the outer stem off the lower one inch of the stem. Helps the roots to form there.

Here the deal with this type of stuff; It's mostly just sugars like molasses. Since it's just a simple sugar wouldn't you think that a good fertilizer would have the correct amount already? Why would any decent formulation need more sugar? Try to not be sucked into the marketing for these gimmicks. It's throwing money away and making your feeding schedule more complicated. I make cannabis oil. One of the things I have to remove to make a great cannabis oil is plant sugars. They are useless in the mix and just make vaping the oil harsh. It doesn't make any sense to put sugar on a plant over and above what good nutes supply. It's a common sense issue.

It is a carbohydrate, and works as well as most others, but is a bit more pricey. Personally, I have found I like my bud better without loading the plants with sugar. I use a very small amount(1/2tsp) of molasses to feed microbes throughout flower, but that's it.

Good to know. Thanks. I get it in HPS room too. Never on the LEDs.

I know how you roll. What you post means exactly.... nothing. Totally lost it. You are on ignore forever now.

What I use from the dispensaries is cannatonic #4 mixed with any sativa in a 2-1 ratio. I do my own grind with 2 parts cannatonic and 1 part sativa.

You can grow PLENTY on your 12 legal rec plants. Then find a patient to sell to if you want to grow more. Up to 5 patients.

Believe or not, some people don't want to grow cannabis. They would rather buy it.

Honestly, you may be right. What I'm referring to isn't solely regarding cannabis. I was referring to every other plants life cycle. Typically the nutrients and sun energy are stored and then dispersed during the plants resting period.

By stretch I meant vegetative growing. The more darkness you give, the faster the grow. I veg on 24 for minimal vegetative growth.

Start a grow, it's legal now. Get good at it. Look for patients. In that specific order.

I've done both, run 18 on now just to save on electricity bill. Never noticed any difference.

In my opinion, leaving the light on for 24 hours will stress a plant.

You can play with different light cycles, but 12/12 is the standard. Getting some experience first with that will be beneficial in being able to recognize positive or negetive reactions in the experiment. In my experience 11on/13off caused a slightly faster maturation (like a week) and a reduction in yield. I also tried 13on 11off with opposite results. If I had time to go 11 weeks I would do 13/11. A plant will flower when it's critical night period is reached. This can vary from strain to strain , but is usually between 10.5 and 12hrs darkness.

You want to go with the maximum hours of light that will keep them in the bud cycle. That's 12. Especially through mid budding. Maybe at the end when they are ripening it would help to give them a little less light. That could be true.

The difference of opinion here between Shiska and Resto seems to be in the definition of a caregiver. I believe Resto is correct, there is no path to market for a basement caregiver under the MMMA. There is however a path to market for individuals from the black market that are holding themselves out as a "caregiver" (they most likely hold caregiver cards). These "caregivers" have a path to market by selling to the licensed growers in lots of 10, 25 even 50 pounds. They may have grown the flower in a 72 plant commercial style grow or perhaps imported from the west coast. On his point, Shiska is correct. These "caregivers" are out there and they are selling to the licensed growers. When the product reaches the dispensary it is tested product from a licensed grower.

Trying to figure out why you can’t wrap your head around this? Either it is a disingenuous misinformation campaign designed to keep others from eating from your plate, which I find hard to believe because I doubt you could supply the needs of one shop let alone the entire state, or you are just very hard headed or possibly naive. Of course “caregivers” are feeding the system 25, 50, 100 pounds at a time. There, I even put caregiver in quotations for you. Of course as it pertains to this thread, Choice Labs will need to verify you are a card holding caregiver.

What Are Trichomes and Why Do They Exist on Cannabis? Patrick Bennett July 28, 2016 When it comes to cannabis, there is quite a bit more than what meets the naked eye. If you fancy the flower, at some point in time you have probably asked yourself about those tiny little crystals that always seems to cover the leaves and buds of your favorite strains. They tend to be shiny, sticky, and always carry the most amazing aromas. Upon looking closer, however, these blankets of frost appear to be large collections of what are known as trichomes. The actual definition of trichome is “fine outgrowths or appendages on plants, algae, lichens, and certain protists.” Originating from the Greek word “Tríchōma,” meaning “growth of hair,” these tiny microscopic mushroom-looking protuberances look like something out of a science fiction novel. But they are actually the very factories that produce the hundreds of known cannabinoids, terpenes, and flavonoids that make our favorite cannabis strains potent, unique, and effective. The Function of Trichomes on Cannabis The production of trichomes can be observed in many species of plants throughout nature, taking on various physical forms as well as serving many different purposes. For example, trichomes found on some carnivorous plants aid in helping to catch prey. In cannabis, trichomes function as a defense mechanism. When female cannabis plants begin to produce flowers in the wild, they often become vulnerable to various insects and animals as well as non-living environmental variables such as potentially harmful UV rays. Trichomes serve as a deterrent for animals because their bitter taste and strong aromas render cannabis flowers unpalatable. At the same time, they also serve a dual function in protecting their plants from damaging winds and even some varieties of fungal growth. The Different Types of Trichomes on Cannabis Trichomes exist in many shapes and sizes, but there are three that appear most often on cannabis plants. Bulbous trichomes are the smallest of the bunch, and they appear on the surface of the entire plant. Bulbous trichomes are as small as 10-15 micrometers, which is tiny enough to only be comprised of a handful of cells. Capitate sessile trichomes are slightly larger and contain both a head and a stalk. These trichomes are quite a bit more abundant than their bulbous brethren, but cannot hold a candle to the bountifulness and size of the third trichome variety. Capitate-stalked trichomes range from anywhere between 50-100 micrometers wide, meaning they’re much larger and can actually be seen by the naked eye. Their structure consists of a stalk comprised of epidermal and hypodermic cells that build up to a basal cell which attaches to a large gland head. This gland head, held together by a waxy cuticle layer, serves as the epicenter for cannabinoid and terpenoid synthesis. All three types of trichomes produce cannabinoids, though it is the capitate-stalked trichomes that will appear in abundance in and around the calyxes of budding flowers, producing the highest concentration of essential oils due to their size. Trichome Production and Lifecycle Cannabinoid synthesis within the trichome begins as cannabis plants move into their bloom phase. As they begin to produce flowers, trichomes form along the outer surface of the above-ground plant vegetation and begin to transport vacuoles and plastids from their stalk into the gland head. At this point, cells within the gland head will begin to metabolize and form precursors for what will eventually become cannabinoids. The rate and concentration at which a cannabis plant produces trichomes will be contingent on both genetics well as some environmental factors. Though plants containing higher concentrations of trichomes don’t always produce the highest concentration of cannabinoids and/or terpenes, variables such as UV light greatly affect cannabinoid and terpene synthesis within the trichome head. Typically, plants that receive a broader spectrum of light will produce higher concentrations of cannabinoids, though in many cases these reactions will be strain-specific. A trichome’s lifecycle largely parallels that of the cannabis plant on which it resides, making it incredibly valuable for farmers to monitor. The life of a trichome can be analogous to a parabola, where the apex represents the point at which maturation exceeds and degradation begins. For the most part, trichomes will display maturation on this parabola by changing opacity from a clear translucent state to a cloudy white and, later on, amber hue. This transition of color within a trichome head represents its peak ripeness and farmers typically use this as a sign to harvest, as it’s the point when the trichome has reached full maturation and will begin to degrade from this point forward. It is important to understand that not all strains of cannabis are the same and some trichomes will display maturation differently. Nevertheless, trichome coloration remains the standard for determining a harvest time for most strains. Whether alive on a vine or harvested, trichomes are incredibly volatile and risk destruction and/or degradation at the hands of many catalysts, including but not limited to: Physical contact or agitation Heat Light Oxygen Time Not only do the trichomes themselves risk damage when exposed to these elements, but the essential oils within them risk degradation. There are ways to dramatically slow degradation of trichomes by carefully handling cannabis flowers both during propagation and post harvest. By limiting physical contact and agitation to the flowers themselves, trichomes may be preserved on the plant for longer periods of time. Proper trimming, drying, and curing techniques can help keep trichomes viable for longer, which in turn will preserve the cannabinoids and terpenoids contained within. Those looking to extend the shelf life of trichomes beyond that of the plants they came from often resort to extraction techniques. An extraction in this context may be defined as the process of either mechanically or chemically removing trichomes from the plant itself. There are a myriad of methods and techniques for extracting trichomes from the plant material. These methods range from mechanical dry sifting practices that produce “kief,” to chemical extractions that utilize light hydrocarbons like butane or propane to create waxy full melt hash oils. If subjected to the right conditions, trichomes that have been separated and recollected by use of these methods can be stored indefinitely. Cannabis trichomes truly do deserve a round of applause for their essential role in not only protecting a cannabis plant from the potential harms of the world, but also by providing a one-of-a-kind manufacturing facility for hundreds of known medicinally and therapeutically beneficial compounds exclusive to this amazing plant. Experienced cannabis farmers are no stranger to growing with the intention of preserving trichomes. With proper care and dedication, farming trichomes is and will remain the future of uncovering the vast mysteries of the medicinal and therapeutic qualities of cannabis.

I think you are pretty close to where I would be if I didn't grow right now. That is if I could find some $150 ounces. Prices are going up so it could be as high as $400-$500 a month at $200-$250 an ounce. I know a lot of folks that use about a half ounce a week. So we are all in the same boat. I know a couple that would use twice that.

So my dude in Cali lost his connect with DNA and Bohdi because of an altercation with an intermediary. He named a few strains, most are already here in MI. Nitro Cookies, Gelato33, Orange Cookies, Platinum Cookies, Purple Punch, Most OG cuts, and most of the sour cuts. I mentioned wedding cake, and he said it's around. He told me he'd keep me updated as the menu changes.

The new one I ordered has a separated ballast so I can place that outside the grow box since they say it puts out around the same heat as a 600 hps I should be fine .

I use t5s for all my veg and cloning. 6500k has always worked well, I use a 4ft 8 bulb fixture for 9 plants. When cloning, put clones off to the side of the light, raised 2ft above cloner till you have roots, then put under the light. I leave mine to the side for 7days, then put under the light for another 7. Roots are always strong at this point. Then I transplant to solo cup or 1 gal, depending how big roots are. I can't tell you what is best, only what works for me. To know what is best, I would have had to try every other light out there. This is what I tried first, and has been successful for many grows. Don't fix what's not broken.

Sounds like you need to get yourself a 80x microscope and check out the trichomes on delivery. Lesson learned. Lots of scammers out there. Flimsy stems? Likely wet, but dry enough to burn. Concentrates can vary in colors depending on the ripening of the trichomes. Darker wax isn't necessarily bad, just means the plant was either run too long, or oil was decarboxylated by a noob using a degassing chamber. However, green is chlorophyll. BHO is just short for butane hash oil. If material is "left" in solvent too long it strips chlorophyll as well as waxes and oils. A good caregiver is hard to come by. However, even a decent caregiver should be able to tell you what they are providing as a medicine. I'd be weary of the medibles too. Never know what pesticides he may be using.

Blue is needed, Full-spec won't hurt. You don't even need that much light for clones. I have my best results using a 125w CFL Daylight.

Not all LEDs are great though. Some are totally useless. Like trying to grow with Christmas lights. I can imagine there are still a lot of growers out there getting ripped off by people selling them bad LEDs. Plant lighting is a complicated thing. It's hard to quantify the light coming off any fixture. Plenty of room for the bamboozlers to sell you some serious garbage and say it's awesome. Buyer beware.

It's on the LARA website, the whole language of the law is there, not the easiest to find, but it's there

I'd love to find a great blueberry again, like the DJ Shorts BB I had a few years ago.... The only blueberry I've grown that smelled and tasted like blueberry and just as strong in scent and affect as lemon cake.

The place I ordered from never sent out order, so I cancelled it after 40 days. ☹️