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caregiver123

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  1. caregiver123

    2ft clones in 1gal promix - transplant to hydro?

    I’m quite amazed. Bare root clones just seem so vulnerable. I’ve transplanted groups of 10 or 12 several times and I almost always have a couple that have trouble or totally die. 18”+ roots hanging down into fresh nute water in optimal conditions and they die. I dunno if the “dirt” helps buffer them somehow. Roots created in dirt compared to creation in straight hydro are very different. It’s strange that transplanting from dirt to hydro seems to be less shocking than hydro to hydro.
  2. caregiver123

    2ft clones in 1gal promix - transplant to hydro?

    Groovy. 20/20/10 is half strength according to recirculating GH chart. I transplanted a couple of these teens out of their promix and into their DWC buckets. It’s been 2 days and they are standing tall and looking very good. Over a couple days, I’ve transplanted a few more and so far they are all looking healthy. I’m just praying they stay that way. I’m so afraid to wake up one morning and find em wilted. I double rinsed them in 5 gal buckets of water. A lot more dirt, etc stuck to the roots than I anticipated, but I shook out as much as I could. They were clean enough where I could slip some roots through the bottom of the baskets. But it was quite a root/dirt ball sitting in the baskets. I’m afraid of soaking this root ball too much- maybe lowering the water level below the baskets more? I’m not sure what else I can do for them at this point. I hope they continue to do well.
  3. caregiver123

    2ft clones in 1gal promix - transplant to hydro?

    Will do. After reading more, it seems this is the recommendation. Also sound like it’s best to dial back the nutrients to like 1/4 strength at first to avoid shocking them. Plants this size I would be typically be giving 20/25/10ml per bucket of my GH trio.
  4. caregiver123

    2ft clones in 1gal promix - transplant to hydro?

    That’s good to hear. The more I read about coco, the less I wanna go down that road. It seems like to get the most out of it is to treat it like hydro, hand feeding multiple times a day, etc, etc. I was looking for something that was less work than my DWC buckets, not more. Any advice on the best way to transplant these big girls out of their dirt and into the water? Gently. Lol. When I’ve transplanted smaller clones like this, I’m not really concerned about getting all the dirt off. In fact, it seems they transition better when some dirt is left on when they go into the baskets. But I imagine the dirt is gonna be harder to remove on these larger ones. I could dip the roots in water to clean the dirt off maybe if it won’t just fall off shaking it a bit? I just don’t know if that’s really necessary, and the more I mess with them, the bigger the chance of breaking roots. Thanks!
  5. caregiver123

    Ph problem airstone

    Air stones should not effect the pH unless they are old and sludged up. It does take an hour or two for new water to pH stabilize. This is what I do with my DWC buckets: I use my tap (well) water as well. It starts with a pH a bit above 7. Start with empty bucket. Add 2 capfuls of pH down (that basically gets my water to about 6, but that will vary). Fill with cold water. Turn on air stone. Add nutrients. Always micro first and never mix the nutes directly together. I use a baby medicine syringe to squirt in the bucket. Let sit for at least 30 min. Check pH again and adjust to 6.0. The nutrients have buffers in them that help keeps the pH from spiking, but it will change and should be checked daily, especially when conditions change. Make sure no light is getting into the bucket. Keeping consistent air/water temps will help the pH from moving. The cooler the temps the better. A water temp in the mid 60s will make it exceedingly difficult for anything nasty to grow in your buckets. Hope this helps!
  6. Just as title says: Is it possible to transplant 2 ft clones growing in 1 gal pots of promix to a DWC system?? Just shake the dirt off the roots a bit and pop them in the baskets and fill in with hydroton? This is what I’ve done before with clones in soil/coco, but they’ve never been this big. Otherwise I gotta research growing in a 70/30 coco/perlite mix. I’m not exactly sure how to manage nutrient levels and deal with run off, etc. But maybe I can just drop em in my hydro baskets? Thanks guys!!
  7. caregiver123

    Help with DWC nutrients and EC/TDS, brown sludge

    I will cut back the lighting. I have read about using h2o2 to battle root rot. However - since I am already using Hydrogaurd, adding h2o2 as well could destroy everything. I’ve also read that h2o2 should only be used very short term on its own, cuz it kills the good bacteria as well as the bad. I am hesitant to use it in conjunction with the Hydrogaurd. If this is total hogwash, I’m all ears. Thanks guys!
  8. I recently started monitoring the EC/TDS levels in my DWCs after I realized the GH nutrient chart I had been using (for some time) was for a “drain to waste” setup. After finding the “recirculating” setup chart, I was surprised to see that the nutrient amounts were significantly different. For example, the recirculating chart shows a nutrient ratio of 10, 10, 5, whereas the drain to waste chart shows a ratio of 4, 5, 1. On top of using the wrong chart, I only use half the strength recommended throughout. Despite all this, over several grows, some have been amazing and trouble free and some have been much more torturous. Obviously, there were many other factors involved throughout these other grows, as they were not all identical strains, grown in identical conditions, etc - they were just all grown with the same setup. So the nutrient question remains.The setup:Basic DWC setup, 6” baskets with hydrotonAir temp is around 75Water temp is around 70Humidity is about 50%Using 600w MHs on 24 hours a dayWater is from the tap (always has been) - runs about 350ppmNutrients are GH trioAlso add Hydrogaurd at about 1ml/galpH is kept around 6Water is changed every weekCurrent plants are 12-15” tall and look very healthy for the most part. Some are growing much better than others (there are a few different strains). There has been some slight yellowing of a few leaves and brownish sludge continues to appear on some of the roots - another reason why I started looking into EC/TDS levels.I changed the water a few days ago with this new found nutrient info. These plants are in mid/late veg. Instead of adding 2, 2.5, and 0.5ml/gal of GH micro, grow and flower like I normally would - I added 5, 6 and 2ml/gal (half the GH recirculating chart values). Hydrogaurd still added at about 1ml/gal. That said, the TDS reading after adding these nutrients was about 1100ppm. The water alone has a ppm of about 350. From what I’ve read a good rule of thumb is to have ppm values of 600, 900, 1200, 1500, etc for vegging week 1, 2, 3, etc. I assume this is starting with a pure water value of zero. So at this point, I would be looking for a ppm around 1200. However, with my water having a ppm of 350, a reading of 1100ppm would really mean only 750ppm are nutrients - which is still significantly less than recommended. Right?Am I looking at all this correctly??Should I be adding even more nutrients? With everything in seemingly optimal range and I keep my buckets clean, why am I still getting brown sludge on some roots? When I lift up the baskets and the roots are moved around a bit in the water, some of the brownish stuff falls off the roots and has a powder consistency in the water. Some new roots are growing through the brownish stuff. It just doesn’t look healthy. Thanks for the help guys!!! (Sorry this got a bit long).
  9. caregiver123

    Regalia, Procidic2 and powdery mildew

    Ah! I have been using this Green Cleaner for the past couple weeks. It has been working. But this last time I used it- it totally burnt all the leaves. They are all yellowed and dried up. I used the same concentration and lights off etc. So frustrating, it’s never ending with this round. The buds don’t seem too effected. They got slightly yellowed as well, but under the loupe the trichs still look good. It there anything I can do to help these sickly plants recover (only a couple look ravaged)?? They only have a few more weeks to go, but I’m not sure how well they will survive with basically no leaves. Thanks guys!
  10. caregiver123

    Monster cropped clones - transition, nutes

    This may be a bit off topic, but now that I think about it, who better to ask than you seasoned locals... I’ll be in the market for clones again soon. I have met a couple great people and received fantastic clones in the past through Bud Trader, despite reading to avoid this site like the plague. It’s pretty obvious who to avoid on there, but not always. I have looked into strain bank, but I’ve heard the same sort of scamming propaganda about them. And they say to avoid BT, etc, etc. I have dealt with Further Genetics and been very disappointed and they seemed more legitimate. Clearly you have to be careful who you deal with. Where do you guys recommend getting clones from in this great state of MI? I’m in the southwest area, but I’m not opposed to traveling within a couple hours. I have heard about the following places, but have no personal experience with them: Strain Bank (already mentioned) MaryJanetics A1michiganmeds mittenweed a2m3 Thanks guys!!
  11. caregiver123

    Monster cropped clones - transition, nutes

    Groovy. Nutes added. Thanks guys! I’m gonna let them hang out a bit longer in this cloner before I disturb them for transplant. A couple of them are laddering down nicely.
  12. Some of my monster cropped clones have rooted. It took about 10 days. Using clone king with only pure water so far. They are under 4 2ft T5s. I feel like I should be giving them some sort of nutrients now. The flowering plants they were cut from were getting half strength GH trio. How much should I give these rooted clones? What else should I give them (mold, pest, etc prevention)? How long should I let these roots progress before I try and transfer them to a DWC? Thanks guys!!
  13. caregiver123

    Regalia, Procidic2 and powdery mildew

    This Green Cleaner I am using is basically soybean oil and soap. Obviously, I’m sure it’s a bit more involved than that, but it’s working and I can spray it until harvest without any detrimental effects. We shall see...
  14. caregiver123

    Regalia, Procidic2 and powdery mildew

    Azamax is the first thing I looked up after seeing these mites. But being halfway thru flower, I wanted to use something as gentle and inert as possible cuz there is no way I can keep whatever I spray off the buds themselves. This Green Cleaner seems to be working, but it’s clearly gonna take multiple applications. Such a pain in the donkey to soak the undersides of everything. Takes forever and makes a friggin mess. I HATE these bugs.
  15. caregiver123

    Regalia, Procidic2 and powdery mildew

    After reading up about Monterey, it’s seems it is not really made to treat and kill mites. It may still work, I won’t deny that, but there is too much debate about the effectiveness of spinosad on mites. After the initial drenching of Green Cleaner, things definitely look better. The PM especially- the spots that have been repeatedly popping up after being treated with H2o2 do not seem to be returning after Green cleaner drench. The mites look better also, but they are far from totally eradicated. I still found some living upon close inspection. I will trim again and give them another soaking tonight. I realize that it takes several vigilante applications over a week or two to truly be effective. In reading about spider mites, many people were talking about physically squishing them and watching them abandon the plant as it’s treated - I dunno wtf these people are talking about, cuz I can just barely see these things using my 10x loupe. They create a sort of thin cobweb, under and around the leaves. I don’t care what kind of mites they are - it seems they are all treated the same way. I just found those comments confusing. Thanks for everyone’s ongoing help in dealing all this. You guys rock!
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