orion

Just an additional thought. Since your damage is on the neutral side, it is possible you have a loose neural in the panel or at a splice.

The timer is only rated for 1000 watts tungsten load. You can only operate at 80%. Which means the timer is good for 800 watts total continuous. Two 600 watt ballast at times like you said is an overload for the timer. Looks like a Pass & Seymour receptacle. Were the wires connected at the screw or pushed into the back of the receptacle? I use the Intermatic T1004R timer in a majority of the grows I wire. I have equipment on these timers for over 40 years with no problems.

Everyone is referring to 220 volts. It is 240 volt. In reality the voltage should be about 245 volt on each leg. White wire neutral bar. Bare copper to additional ground lug bar which has to be purchased separately. No bonding screw is in sub tap panel. Black and red to main lugs. Just you tube it. There are plenty of videos.

Thanks for posting the article. My experience with cloning says the article is spot on.

I will repeat this again. Four plants is not enough to make medicine. Is this about getting high? or is it about medicine?

Obviously you know nothing about making medicine.

I have informed all of my Ohio family and friends to vote against it. It is not a good deal. Its a horrible deal. Four plants is not enough to make medicine. Not to mention the corporate greed of Oscar Robison and the rest of investors.

On a second thought I will toss in Iced Grapefruit. This is one serious producer of large buds and quantity.

I will toss in Blue Dream, as it is most requested by my patients due to the fact you can perform normal duties and not want to lie down and fall asleep.

Anti- inflammatory products that work for myself are Zyflamend made by New Chapter and magnesium chloride. I purchase both from the Center for Holistic Medicine. Magnesium chloride is absorbed thru the skin much better than Epsom salts.

A standard residential transformer will handle the load. 30 x 600 =18000 watts divide 18000 watts by 240 volt and you get 75 ampere or 150 amps at 120 volts. You can purchase a contactor that will handle 75 amps or more. Actually you want your contactor size to be 125 % larger than the continuous power being used. In this case the next standard size would be 100 amps. A contactor is basically a solenoid. The contactor can be installed inline on your power source (main feed) to your distribution center which can be a standard 30 space or 40 space electric panel. The timer will turn on/off

I would increase the amount of chlorine (Clorox AKA Bleach) to a 20 percent solution for 3 hours minimum. A through wash and then let all items dry completely before using. This is a standard formula used in the firehouse to disinfect mask's. This solution will kill pneumonia and other cooties in 15 minutes. However algae and iron bacteria can take up to 3 hours of immersion. I would also suspect your water may be a little on the warm side. The 10 - 14 days for good roots is normal. Best regards

Cool tubes

The bare copper wire is an equipment safety ground. Not a neutral. The water heater would still operate without the bare copper ground attached. It carries no electricity. It is used for safety as an alternative source back to your panel in case of a energized wire or equipment part coming in contact with the metal case of the water heater. There is no positive or negative on 240 A/C volt installation. Just two hot wires that are 180 degrees out of phase. Yes I am a licensed electrician. My point is why pay more for 10/3 when 10/2 is less expensive.

The correct wire would be 10/2. Water heaters do not require a neutral.