Jump to content

Highlander

Supporters
  • Content Count

    3,968
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    43

Everything posted by Highlander

  1. This is a logical fallacy. Failure does not prove that success is out-of-reach. You have to look at success and work backwards from there. Compare/contrast the grow operation in its entirety. Changing one element of a grow operation can have wide-spread consequences. My own experience with the lights Resto recommended in this thread is very positive. So we know that there is a way to succeed with these lights. We also know that you can't simply swap out HPS and swap in LEDs and expect the same results. I wonder why you used King Diamond's experience with these LEDs to conclude that they are no good, rather than use my experience to conclude that they actually are a good option. Early on in the MM program in Michigan, I offered DWC advice to several people. I told them to do EXACTLY what I do, and they would get similar results. They all ended up deciding that DWC wasn't a good way to grow, and I'd hear stuff like: - No, I didn't use a chiller and didn't take the temperature of my nute solution. I stuck my hand in there, and it felt cool enough. - No, I didn't measure dissolved oxygen. I figured with all of the bubbles, it must be OK. - I used to water my hempy buckets with 1500ppm nutes. I figured that was good for DWC too. - After I added the enzymes, the guy at the grow store told me that adding hydrogen peroxide would help stave off root rot. So I bought a bottle at Rite-Aid and dumped it in the res - For under $1, it was worth a try. - A buddy of mine grows the best buds I've ever seen. He swears by molasses. So I gave it a try. - pH? If I use RO water and mix my nutes according to instructions, the pH should be fine, right? Note that, when discussing soil temperatures, King Diamond was only able to assume they were similar under LEDs as HPS. He also assumed that manicuring the plants the same way he did under HPS would be fine. Myself, I followed the lead of a grower who has been successful with LEDs and DWC and did EXACTLY as he instructed (except I used different lights - those recommended here). I ended up with very satisfying results. I'm sure if King Diamond applies himself, he also can be successful with the same LEDs, as he obviously has done very well with HIDs.
  2. Seven weeks in flower. I had a misstep with this plant in about week 3 that resulted in most of the fan leaves turing brown. It still looks pretty nice. This plant never saw HPS.
  3. Restorium recently posted that he got roots on new cutting in three days with plants grown under LEDs. I'll admit that was a hard one to believe. But now I've seen it myself. I took cuttings last Sunday night, and most of them had visible roots/nubs by Saturday night (6 days). I have tiny root spikes on several cuttings I took Wednesday night (3.5 days ago). The donor plants were all grown under LED since they were very small. I use an aerocloner and a 96-watt T-5 (using only 3 bulbs - so 72 watts.) I'm using RO water with a touch of Cal-Mag. (I will add some nutes in a day or so). The plants were vegged in DWC with the same nutes/additives I always use. Lighting was one 1500-Yehsense with both switches on, covering about 4' by 4'. I've been using one aerocloner or another for about 8 years and, when everything is going right, get visible roots in about 7 days. 3.5 days is unprecedented. I realize this recent occurrence is very anecdotal, but it makes me wonder if the different light during veg causes physiological differences in the plants that make them root more easily.
  4. I'm not sure of the strain. I received three clones from a friend and got them mixed up. This is at 35 days and is my first plant flowered solely under LEDs. I'm going to work on photo quality.
  5. I'm glad you posted this. One of my pet peeves is folks talking about "magnifying light" as if that means somehow more light is magically created. As you stated, the lens on these LED lights don't magnify light - they focus it.
  6. I hope I don't come across as a p.rick, but knowing that a person needs a patient in order to become a caregiver is about the most basic element of this program. If this is something you had to ask about, you should be asking yourself if you truly know enough at this point to stay legal and out of trouble. You really should do A LOT of reading and ask a lot more questions before you dive in.
  7. Tomato cages work well too. I grow DWC in five-gallon buckets. I cut the legs of the tomato cages down to about 1.5" long, drill three holes in the lid, slide the legs in, then fold them over.
  8. I agree with everything you said. I never will understand why some patients think they should get free meds from a CG, while assuming the CG can sell meds to other patients to make it all worthwhile. It makes no sense. It's as if we CGs are asked to sign-up a stranger as a patient and give free meds to him/her and sell meds to other stranger patients to make it all worthwhile. It's crazy. "I'm sick so I want you to give me free meds and pay for my card and sell MMJ to other SICK people to bridge the costs so I don't have to pay anything." Why are you more special than the other sick people you expect a CG to sell to so you can get free meds?
  9. OK, let me get straight to the point. You, as a patient, seem to think that a caregiver should give you stuff for free in exchange for growing 12 plants. This is probably because you think a caregiver will sell overages to someone else to make it all worthwhile. So I ask you this: How about you sign-up with a caregiver and pay an average price for meds and buy the surplus from the caregiver and then YOU sell it? Put the shoe on the other foot. And bend your mind around this: If every patient out there is entitled to free meds from a CG, why would any person grow for free? Where is this free weed coming from? And where did you get the delusion that every plant produces a pound? I hope you do find a CG...
  10. Yeah. understood. Thanks for keeping it real. I'm not going there.
  11. I'm not going to throw shade on Existo. But I have no interest in his plan whatsoever.
  12. OK. So you aren't a patient seeking a CG; you represent a business interest. Got it.
  13. Why are you asking for multiple "caregivers?" Are you a patient seeking a caregiver? Why don't you just lay-out your plan without trying to trick someone to participate in your agenda. It smells bad.
  14. Well, I just bought 4. It's hard to go wrong at this price point.
  15. Good idea. I had a cable crimp come apart on a 4' 8 bulb T-5. It wasn't pretty. Also, being able to hang them closer to the ceiling is another benefit.
  16. I have a few plants in flower under the Yehsence 1500 LEDs. They are all of about similar height but range from day 1 to about 4 weeks in flower. (The first 4 weeks of the old ones were under HPS). I just measured my distances from lights to plant tops. The canopy height and the heights of the lights vary, but, in general, the distance from bulbs to plant tops is about 18-24" with lots of new growth on the new ones and no bleaching on the old ones.
  17. Over the past week, I have replaced my HPS ( 3x 1,000w) in my flower room with the Yehsence 1500s. I don't miss the awkward big hoods and all of the ductwork. Also, the Yehsence fixtures are fairly small and lightweight, so they sway with the wind, which kind acts like a light mover. I have only two complaints for far. 1.) the light spectrum makes me a bit nauseous. (I need some glasses) and 2.) My furnace has run in June for the first time in about 10 years (but that's kinduv a good thing, really)
  18. After about 2 weeks in veg, I'm very pleased. I'm not doing a scientific experiment, but after growing indoors for X+ years, I generally know when something is or isn't working. My veg plants are growing way faster than I've seen in a long time, if ever. They are very deep green, bushy, and aren't stretching a lot.
  19. Well, I received the 4 new lights on Friday and replaced my veg room lights. (1,000w MH and 8-4' T5) over about 20-25 square feet with one Yehsense 1500. (I usually only use 1,000w MH in my veg room, but at the moment, my perpetual grow is a bit heavier on the veg phase than usual) I'm starting out with both the veg and bloom switches on because I have a hard time believing that just the veg option is enough light for my space. Depending on growth rates and plant health (should be apparent within a few days) I might install a second light and then just run both on the veg switch in my veg room. So far, things look fine. My one complaint so far is that the power cord is very short and it appears that there was a miscommunication because I thought I'd be getting 220v cords. I have some 220v cords I can use, but I'm going to need more length, so while I figure that out, I'm unable to use these in the flower room. Bummer. So I either have to find or make 220v extension cords or rewire my 220v (8 plug) switch to extend it closer to where the lights hang (which will be a pain). Or, I could run them on 110v volt circuits because my amperage needs will be dropping about 75% and don't really need to be running lights at 220v at this time (if ever again). No big deal. I'll adapt. So I have some decisions to make and work to do, but it's always fun to figure-out new equipment/technology for one's indoor garden. The continual learning/improvement is part of what makes this so much fun. I appreciate Resto and KD taking the plunge and reporting back to the community. I used LEDs years ago with poor success and would not have gone back had they not shared their experience. If/when these lights work as promised, consider this: I bought the four Yehsence lights on Amazon for just under $600. I signed-up for a new Amazon credit account, so I'm getting 6 months with no payments and no interest. By my calculations, my electricity savings on lights alone will be about $200/month. That doesn't include the probably additional $100/month saved by less need for AC and not having to run my RDWC chillers as much. So, I'll have saved about $1,800 by the time I even have to pay for these lights. It's almost like Amazon is paying me $1,200 and giving me four new LED fixtures for free. It's getting hard to see the downside. But, the harvests will tell all. Like KD, I'll probably still run some HPS in flower during this transition.
  20. I just bought 4 Yehsence lights on Amazon (recommendation from Resto). Cost was about $580, and the products should be at my door Friday. Based on KD's and Resto's experience/recommendations, I'm very excited about this transition. I'll give some updates as things progress. If the new lights do what they are said to do, between lighting and AC costs, these LED lights will pay for themselves before labor day.
  21. Highlander

    vpaes 12 17 15 019

    I used to buy empty cartridges from a store in Flint. They were in a big candy-type jar and were unlabeled. They worked OK. I got on-line recently and and did some research and found out that cartridges are available with a variety of oil intake hole diameters. The ones I was using were probably about 1mm. About 2 weeks ago, I bought some cartridges with 2mm intake holes. They are fantastic. The first time I took a hit I was overwhelmed. The oil I use is extracted with butane, but I don't do a fast extraction and don't winterize, so the oil is about the viscosity of tar at room temperature - probably about what you'd get with an alcohol extraction. I bought 10 for $35ish shipped. They are reusable. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wood-1ML-5ML-Glass-Ceramic-Coil-Wickless-Vape-Cartridge-510-WHOLESALE/123702988231?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=424297918694&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 I highly recommend the ooze battery units. You'll want one with adjustable voltage. Some have a manual dial to adjust voltage, and some have adjustable voltage by pushing the button a few times. My personal preference is the manual. Also, the ooze units have a preheat function, which is very helpful for thicker (pure/uncut) oils. Crank up the volts and vape! I've spent a lot of time and money doing trial and error with vape pens since about 2010. I started with Omicron products, which were kinda good at the time but it's almost like comparing the computer I bought in 1993 with an Intel Pentium 60 processor for about $3,000 to my current machine that is 10 times better at about 20% of the cost. Resto might add to this discussion. Maybe his extraction/winterizing works well with the common/smaller intake hole carts. In any event, you have a lot of options and are asking good questions in a forum where you'll get good answers.
  22. I had a terrible experience switching from dirt to DWC years ago. The problem was that I didn't properly address the risk of root rot, and I lost most of my plants before I installed a chiller and started using enzymes. Now, I use aerocloners and transfer the bare root clones (in the same foam insert) into a 2" net pot (with the bottom cut off) and put them in my DWC system. Unless I make a big mistake (clogged airstone, water level too low, break roots) my transfers are 100% successful, and the plants take-off. I run two aerocloners. One has minimal nutrients for rooting and the other has about 25% of the recommended veg-grow nutes. Someone mentioned DWC being a lot of work. Once you have the system dialed-in, it's probably one of the easiest grow systems to manage. The growth rates are steller and second probably only to aero. Some day, I'll pick Resto's brain about going full aero. It's a bit intimidating thinking about the build and making sure the nozzles don't get clogged, but the upsides (less nute volume = less need to chill the water, higher oxygen levels in the water) are probably worth it.
  23. The Michigan Medical Marijuana Act does not prohibit this. But significant issues exist under federal law for sites with more than 100 plants. I think there are a few (at least two) people from Michigan who are doing time in federal prison for this issue.
  24. Thanks for the info. I'm at a slow spot in my grow right now - only running 2,000w in flower and an 8-bulb T5 in veg. By next weekend, I'll be down to 1,000w in flower and won't need more light for another month or so. So I am in a good position to replace lights as I ramp up the grow again. Question: if you didn't want to spend to replace all lights at once, how would you stagger the purchases? LED for veg first (replacing T5) or flower first. Do you think it's worth it to replace the T5 in veg? Thank you
×
×
  • Create New...