Need Your Grow Questions Answered? Come On In!

[Bisharoo]

Yeah, I don't think my nutri-dip trimeter was worth the couple hundred bucks. I am thinking about a new PPM meter. The PH part stopped working some time ago, and I am not sure about the accuracy of the PPM meter.

As for the PH, lucky for me LongHairBri lets me "Import From Detroit" his Detroit City water and I never have to check the PH, just ask Bri, or sample the fruits of his work if any of you patients ever have the good fortune to sample his fine quality medicines...

So, any ideas about a good quality meter for us individual humans here?

Edited August 6, 2011 by Bisharoo

[ToadInCan]

I got the Millwaukee PH55 and I would recomend it. True, it's only for pH, but the meter and the buffer and the calibrating solutions were just over hundred out the door. It's worked great for going on a year now. I'm trying to find the paperwork on my other meter. It measures temp and total disolved solids. It wasn't nearly as much as the pH meter. I figured if anything went wrong with a tri-meter, I'd be screwed on all my checks. But the PH55 works great.

[ToadInCan]

Be careful with introducing compost to you hydro system. Pithium is a protist that thrives on decaying organic matter. It's a slime mold, and I'm guessing that it's a mesophile, meaning that it becomes active in temps from 77 to 104 degrees F. I don't think it photosynthesizes either, because I have my containers pretty well blocked from light penetration. It reproduces by forming spores which are microscopic and lay dormant as cysts until they encounter the right environment. I didn't realize that my water was getting so warm untill I noticed some foliage dying and had to figure it out the hard way. I still use organics, and have some compost tea brewing, but I'm also doing what I can to keep my water temp down. Once it gets a foot hold it's a pain to eliminate.

[ToadInCan]

What do you mean dialed in. As in how much nutes your feeding???

 

 

Just a little note on "dialed in". I witnessed it myself recently. I met drtarzan and he is definitely dialed in. His methods and the fruit of his labor made my mouth water. He must have noticed, cuz we shared something and pretty soon my mouth was dry. drtarzan's passion for growing, dedication to the cause, and compassion for others is only surpassed by his willingness to share his knowledge. I'd nominate him for member of the year!

[BubbleBerryKush]

so lets get into a discussion about PHup and PHdown, I am using earth juice and it does not hold the PH for more than 24 hours....I was using GH in the past and never noticed a real problem, but who makes the best PH adjusters, so my ph does not run all over the place.

[BubbleBerryKush]

just bought a nutra-drip Tri-meter, calibrated it, everything seems good ...right? so i mixed a batch of nutes, I am using GH 3 part, and my PPM's are 1350!!!! Obviously I need to get that to about 850-900, but has anyone else had issues with using the recommended amounts of GH 3 part???? or is the tri meter a piece of bunny muffin? fyi my rez is 50 gallons if that matter at all...

 

Should I use half of the recommended dose?

Edited August 9, 2011 by BubbleBerryKush

[Guest Mr_Smith]

What is your conversion factor? That's probably your answer right there.

[Nix]

Be careful with introducing compost to you hydro system. Pithium is a protist that thrives on decaying organic matter. It's a slime mold, and I'm guessing that it's a mesophile, meaning that it becomes active in temps from 77 to 104 degrees F. I don't think it photosynthesizes either, because I have my containers pretty well blocked from light penetration. It reproduces by forming spores which are microscopic and lay dormant as cysts until they encounter the right environment. I didn't realize that my water was getting so warm untill I noticed some foliage dying and had to figure it out the hard way. I still use organics, and have some compost tea brewing, but I'm also doing what I can to keep my water temp down. Once it gets a foot hold it's a pain to eliminate.

 

I don't put compost in my RDWC but rather compost tea that's been filtered to remove particles. I don't care for introducing organics into hydro but it was necessary to get rid of slime. Cleared it right up and it's the only thing that can.

 

just bought a nutra-drip Tri-meter, calibrated it, everything seems good ...right? so i mixed a batch of nutes, I am using GH 3 part, and my PPM's are 1350!!!!

 

Did you test your water before mixing your nutes? Mine out of the tap is around 230 so I have to factor that in.

[Jipo]

.7 conversion factor most likely on the meter, this is why EC is commonly used as PPM is unreliable amongst manufacturers.

[BubbleBerryKush]

.7 conversion factor most likely on the meter, this is why EC is commonly used as PPM is unreliable amongst manufacturers.

 

how would I know? it says 0-9999 ppm no EC... its model number 202 in the instruction booklet it gives me some equation of the conversion

 

NaCI conversion

1000 μS/cm EC=500ppm

 

I dont think my ppms should be that high with just GH 3 part, but if it is, then I will have to swap out some neuts for water to get it right....

 

any info would help, thanks a ton

[BubbleBerryKush]

I would, but I notice deficiencies when I dont use the grow portion of the 3 part. I will probably just cut back and see what happens...

[Bisharoo]

just bought a nutra-drip Tri-meter, calibrated it, everything seems good ...right? so i mixed a batch of nutes, I am using GH 3 part, and my PPM's are 1350!!!! Obviously I need to get that to about 850-900, but has anyone else had issues with using the recommended amounts of GH 3 part???? or is the tri meter a piece of bunny muffin? fyi my rez is 50 gallons if that matter at all...

 

Should I use half of the recommended dose?

Not happy with mine either, as I said, the PH meter quit long ago and the PPM meter is suspect, so I need a PPM meter only here with my water imported from Detroit.

Any really good ones that you guys would like to share with us individual humans here? Thanks!

[BubbleBerryKush]

Not happy with mine either, as I said, the PH meter quit long ago and the PPM meter is suspect, so I need a PPM meter only here with my water imported from Detroit.

Any really good ones that you guys would like to share with us individual humans here? Thanks!

 

I dont think its the meter, it has to be me, because when I calibrated it, it was good and balanced. if I get a year out of it I will be happy. if I didnt get such a great deal on it I would have bought a Bluelab, which will probably happen in 12-24 months

[Royal Smoke]

Not happy with mine either, as I said, the PH meter quit long ago and the PPM meter is suspect, so I need a PPM meter only here with my water imported from Detroit.

Any really good ones that you guys would like to share with us individual humans here? Thanks!

 

 

 

 

 

I really missed your visual effects, Bish!

 

This thread is the thread of all threads......

[Purplehaze]

Hello everyone, looking for some input on the preferred method of sexing plants. I have 10 babies that need to be determined male/female.

Cloning all 10 and testing the clones is best way I guess, but that will throw me way over my plant count.(not very comfortable doing that)

Does it hurt the plant much if I just put the 10 in the flower room till they show sex in 7-10 days? Then bring them back to veg. room. I think this is what I am going to do, any comments?

Thanks for any input

[Jipo]

Hello everyone, looking for some input on the preferred method of sexing plants. I have 10 babies that need to be determined male/female.

Cloning all 10 and testing the clones is best way I guess, but that will throw me way over my plant count.(not very comfortable doing that)

Does it hurt the plant much if I just put the 10 in the flower room till they show sex in 7-10 days? Then bring them back to veg. room. I think this is what I am going to do, any comments?

Thanks for any input

 

Can be done, will cause a fair amount of stress and you might have some weird growth appear shortly after, its gonna put your bloom cycle back though, you're going to want them to finish coming back into veg and establishing new growth before you send them back into flower other wise your going to have some angry girls on your hands. One thing you could also do is send them into flower, wait until they show sex, if you have all reg seeds you'll most likely have at least 1-2 males, then depending on how many you take you that will give you some room for more clones. If you take the clones as soon as the plants show sex they should still root and reveg, they may be a little rough but you'll have plenty of time to let them get there bunny muffin straight while you flower out the remaining females.

 

So example.

 

lets say you send 10 into flower, you don't have a 2nd veg room so you don't know how you're going to take clones either way. Go get the biggest CFL you can find and hang it over top your humidome or where ever you could setup your cloning area. Now send the 10 females into flower, 9 days pass you can sex them and clearly see 4 males, Kill them, this leaves you with 6 females, and a plant count of 12. Take 1 clone off each and get them setup and rooting in your cloning area, now they will probably take about 2 weeks to fully root due to being partially in bloom and trying to reveg at the same time, once they're good and rooted transplant them to your medium and at this point you're either stuck upgrading the light or vegging with CFL's, which isn't the worst thing because they won't give the plants a ton of light so they won't grow to crazy while you wait on the 6 in bloom. When the 6 in bloom finish, pick your favorite, maybe 2 favorites. Send the other 4-5 that didn't make the cut into bloom, then take 6 clones from the mothers, and begin to veg those, and start the "rotation"

 

If you have 2 rooms already, you're set. If not even a small make shift room to get by for now can go a long way.

[Purplehaze]

I do have 2 rooms 10x11 flower room with 2 1000w hps lights and a small 4x4 veg/clones room with a 8 bulb T-5.

Problem is there are 11 ladies about to switch to flower and I need to grab some clones from them, at the same time the 10 babies are in need of determining the sex. So I wasnted to just move them along with the 11, I think I should follow what you said and only take 1 clone from 5 of the babies and flower them, then the other 5 after.

 

I don't like stressing the plants and going back and forth seems more stressful

[Jipo]

I do have 2 rooms 10x11 flower room with 2 1000w hps lights and a small 4x4 veg/clones room with a 8 bulb T-5.

Problem is there are 11 ladies about to switch to flower and I need to grab some clones from them, at the same time the 10 babies are in need of determining the sex. So I wasnted to just move them along with the 11, I think I should follow what you said and only take 1 clone from 5 of the babies and flower them, then the other 5 after.

 

I don't like stressing the plants and going back and forth seems more stressful

 

Sex them before cloning that way you don't clone a male. You can take a clone from a plant in bloom 1-2 weeks in and not have to many problems with it rooting.

[Mememe]

Take cuttings, wrap in moist paper towel, put in ziplock bags (don't forget to label), put in crisper drawer. In 10 days when you know the sexes, throw out male bags and dip n root the females.

[Grow Thread]

whats new??

[UrbanRangerKyle]

I am growing in a closet that is 9x3 under a 400w in bubble totes 2 per tote and I was wondering what I can do to make the buds more dense. I keep hearing people talk about them ending up really loose under the 400w. would it be worth it to get a couple of t5's or is there a chemical additive that I can use. I am running the lucas method

[Inepsa]

I am growing in a closet that is 9x3 under a 400w in bubble totes 2 per tote and I was wondering what I can do to make the buds more dense. I keep hearing people talk about them ending up really loose under the 400w. would it be worth it to get a couple of t5's or is there a chemical additive that I can use. I am running the lucas method

 

I use 400 watt lights on some of my plants and I get super dense buds. I dont think lights are your issue. Also I do not believe chemical additives are what you should look at. In my opinion bud density comes down to a few things. Genetics, Lights (400w is fine for 4-6 plants) and the environment you grow in.

[Nix]

I am growing in a closet that is 9x3 under a 400w in bubble totes 2 per tote and I was wondering what I can do to make the buds more dense. I keep hearing people talk about them ending up really loose under the 400w. would it be worth it to get a couple of t5's or is there a chemical additive that I can use. I am running the lucas method

 

Get your light closer. Put a fan in your bloom room and aim it right at the top of the plant, otherwise you might burn them. An exhaust fan sucking air through the light is also very important. A lot of it does have to do with genetics though so matter how much light you throw at them you may still get fluffy buds. What strain are you growing? Also have you ever tried a bloom booster? I highly recommend AN's Big Bud.

[Bisharoo]

whats new??

Well, quite a bit since we last spoke. I have progressed in my knowledge at a much slower pace lately since you have been away. I would like to get your input sometimes, but I read what you said about that, so I hope that all is well and getting better day by day for you and yours BG! Always a friend to many individual human beings. Peace...

[UrbanRangerKyle]

I have 2 vanilla kush, and 2 Kabers. the Kabers I might be spelling it wrong ive heard it called like 5 different things by people close to the person I got the clones from. I believe it is a pre 98 bubba strain but im not 100%. I have not tried any boom boosters but I was looking at trying I just didnt know which actually worked.

 

edit I checked the local shops for AN's big bud and none of them carry it.

Edited August 16, 2011 by UrbanRangerKyle