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I have a question about DWC vs. Bubbleponics.

 

According to Wikipedia, the difference is that bubbleponics is DWC with a top drip feedline. I'm wondering what you RDWC users go with? Bubbleponics is supposedly superior because young clones get nutrient solution before their roots reach the res below. I've never done it because I've heard that it creates algae on top of the net pot. Plus it's just that much more tubing going everywhere. I personally just raise the water really high when I'm starting out so the bubbles below splash the bottom of the pot. I'm just curious if anyone has tested both methods and noticed significant results either way.

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.....I see JMHO posting here all the time , and most every post is a solid and useful bit, would like to thank JMHO in these forums

this is what it (PM) looks like under a scope.. 

Yeah, no micron filter small enough for the spores. And the mycotoxins pass w the solvents. Iv smelled foul bho made from moldy nugs before, basically effed, cant be processed out.

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<br />I have a question about DWC vs. Bubbleponics. <br /><br />According to Wikipedia, the difference is that bubbleponics is DWC with a top drip feedline. I'm wondering what you RDWC users go with? Bubbleponics is supposedly superior because young clones get nutrient solution before their roots reach the res below. I've never done it because I've heard that it creates algae on top of the net pot. Plus it's just that much more tubing going everywhere. I personally just raise the water really high when I'm starting out so the bubbles below splash the bottom of the pot. I'm just curious if anyone has tested both methods and noticed significant results either way.<br />
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howdy howdy.

 

its all in the terminology really.

 

rather than fight wiki over a definition, ill just start typing :)

 

yes, bubbleponics is superior in my mind. bubbleponics is a form of dwc. if you add the top drip system to a bubbletote it has become rdwc because you are recirculating the water.

 

i have used these top drip systems before and its really not worth it. just a stone in the bucket and air moving through is plenty. the recirculating part is in no way necessary, nor does it really affect growth. the one thing that the recirculating does do for you is allow you to check/fill/test only one bucket/rez/tote and have it affect all the other buckets/totes in the string.

 

i do not like using the spaghetti tubing because it just creates one hell of a mess in the grow room having 100's of extra feet of tubing lying around.

 

thus, the reason i hook all my buckets/totes together the way i do. the spaghetti tubes are not necessary, and they do not make any more of a difference than the way i recirculate the water..... just less hassle without them.

 

i believe jipo just got done with a run using the spaghetti tubing and can probably testify as well.

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its all in the terminology really.

 

I hear that. I've been doing some aeroponics experiments and people get all bent out of shape over what is "true aeroponics" and what isn't. I believe it just has to do with the size of the water droplets. :rolleyes:

 

I re-circle my water the same way you do, with 1/2" tubing. That way the water levels, nutes, and ph are all the same. It's basically a very slow drip inside the bucket that's about the same speed as the water going back to the res via gravity. It works quite well. Oh and thanks for turning me on to the blue transparent tubing from GH! I really like being able to see how the water is moving.

Edited by Nix
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Oh and thanks for turning me on to the blue transparent tubing from GH! I really like being able to see how the water is moving.

 

oh i love that stuff too. im glad i tried it once because ill never go back...... im gently phasing all the black tube out of my rooms :)

Just a pic i found online. Thought id share it :)

 

3593815792_a8d9b901cf_o.gif

 

cool pic!! i like that one.

 

it definitely illustrates the reason why i DON'T like this type of system (the water farm).

 

as you see, anything that settles on top of the hydroton WILL eventually gets washed down into your water below. all it takes is one hair to completely screw up your environment down there.

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oh i love that stuff too. im glad i tried it once because ill never go back...... im gently phasing all the black tube out of my rooms :)

 

 

cool pic!! i like that one.

 

it definitely illustrates the reason why i DON'T like this type of system (the water farm).

 

as you see, anything that settles on top of the hydroton WILL eventually gets washed down into your water below. all it takes is one hair to completely screw up your environment down there.

That's the first thing that came to mind for me like,,what if a spider or , whatever gets washed down in the root ball? i don't like this either.

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Did you see my post in this thread a few pages ago about my problem with slime? If you have pics or can describe the slime a bit better we can help narrow it down. I had a huge problem in my RDWC last grow. It wasn't pithium though it was brown slime algae. It can grow without light so it doesn't matter how light proof your res and buckets are. Forget H202 as a permanent solution. It's only good for killing organic matter in your water for around 24 hours, then it turns into regular H20. It's good for spraying your roots down though. Put it in a misting bottle with a little bit of water and spray the slime off over another bucket. Then scrape all the goo out of your system and flush with clean water and H202, Physan 20, or bleach.

 

The only thing that cures the slime is compost tea. I put the recipe a few pages back. Just add one cup per gallon. It also has the benefit of making your roots absorb nutes more efficiently.

 

 

Thanks Nix! I found your recipe, and I'm heading to the grow store to get what I need.

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Hello Bubblegrower,

I read your blueberry patch thread and saw that you used the General Organics line. I have been using this line with sunshine mix and had excellent results. I would love to do some plants in deep water culture but was under the impression that the general organics line was not compatible with hydroponics. I tried Advanced Nutrients Iguana Juice but the smell is hard to take and its expensive. I got the Botanicare line labeled "all natural" but I dont think that its technically organic. So my questions are....

 

Did you think the General Organics line worked well with DWC?

Did you use additional supplements?

Did you find that the GO nutes worked better for some strains that others?

 

Thank you so much. Freedom of information is the key to creating a better society so the education is greatly appreciated.

See you on the 25th!

 

Im not bg...but he got me to use go.....n i love it....soil hempy and dwc

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I'm aproaching ten weeks on one each of Free Leonard, OGKush, and AK47. The AK47 is the first one in the room, closest to the door, and the first one with spider mites. I rubbed the leaves with diluted alcohol. It's way too late to spray these plants. I'm at maybe 25% amber. I'm thinking of taking them down. The rest of the room is four to six weeks behind, so I don't have too much problem spraying them. I was hoping to let these three plants ripen for a few more days. I've had them in flush since sunday. Any advice?

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I'm aproaching ten weeks on one each of Free Leonard, OGKush, and AK47. The AK47 is the first one in the room, closest to the door, and the first one with spider mites. I rubbed the leaves with diluted alcohol. It's way too late to spray these plants. I'm at maybe 25% amber. I'm thinking of taking them down. The rest of the room is four to six weeks behind, so I don't have too much problem spraying them. I was hoping to let these three plants ripen for a few more days. I've had them in flush since sunday. Any advice?

 

10 weeks? your best bet is to let it ride from here and NOT treat your plants with anything.

 

when you cut the plants for harvest, cut the entire plant, hang it upside down, and spray the stem, at the top, where you cut it ......with alcohol, neem oil, and everything you have.

 

after you harvest the plant it will begin to dry out ..... within 24-48 hours all the mites will walk off the leaves/flowers of your hanging plant and walk to the top ......... where the stem was cut.... you can kill them here.

 

obviously you should treat everything in your garden now too.

 

using anything at this point will leave dead mite carcasses in your meds ..... best to hang the entire plant and let them walk off your flowers at will .... then kill them at the top.

 

rubbing alcohol kills resin glands so its not good to use during the flower stage.

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10 weeks? your best bet is to let it ride from here and NOT treat your plants with anything.

 

when you cut the plants for harvest, cut the entire plant, hang it upside down, and spray the stem, at the top, where you cut it ......with alcohol, neem oil, and everything you have.

 

after you harvest the plant it will begin to dry out ..... within 24-48 hours all the mites will walk off the leaves/flowers of your hanging plant and walk to the top ......... where the stem was cut.... you can kill them here.

 

obviously you should treat everything in your garden now too.

 

using anything at this point will leave dead mite carcasses in your meds ..... best to hang the entire plant and let them walk off your flowers at will .... then kill them at the top.

 

rubbing alcohol kills resin glands so its not good to use during the flower stage.

 

Thanks Bg! I know that alcohol will dissolve the trichs, so I've been careful to stay away from the buds. Just spraying my hands and rubbing the leaves. I'll cut them tomorrow, and treat them just as you said. The rest of the room's gonna get a lot of attention in the next few days. No webs yet, and not a whole lot of infestation. I just notiiced the spots on the leaves today, and found some on the underside of a few leaves. This is my first bout of spider mites, and I read everything I could find on them. I'll cut the whole plant and hang it, then deal with them as they migrate. Everything else gets soaked for awhile at 3-5 day increments. Grrrr... the tiniest things are the biggest pain in the arse!

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anyone have any experience with CAP ebb and grow....I recently set one up and the control module is already jacked up (the "full" solenoid never signals that its full so it will eventually overflow the control module)...

 

1) anyone have any experience getting in contact with this company and how are they to deal with?

2) should I just take it back to the store???

 

any advice would be great.....

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after you harvest the plant it will begin to dry out ..... within 24-48 hours all the mites will walk off the leaves/flowers of your hanging plant and walk to the top ......... where the stem was cut.... you can kill them here.

 

Must be that time of year. I have discovered mites in my first greenhouse grow. I chopped the worst offender down and let it dry out. What do you use to kill them once they reach the top of the stem?

 

My two cents: 25% amber is choppin time to me. I don't even let mine go that far. I was researching the mites alot this past week. The main thing you want to do is treat the problem not the symptoms. It's the dry air that's bringing them out. I noticed my pond has lost a foot of water over the past few weeks. So you need to increase humidity to 50-60%. 60% is better. I've been misting my greenhouse every day and leaving buckets of water out to get that humidity up. It won't kill them but it will slow them down. As for the temp, there's not much I can do out there except bring in fans and open the door. Thankfully nature has pretty much taken care of that. Indoors, you can just plug in a humidifier and run an AC.

 

In all of the forums I've read, the only thing that seems to kill the mites dead are Hot Shot No Pest Strips. They release a vapor that kills them, however you don't want to hang them where people live. Supposedly they can kill every mite in a grow room in only 5-6 hours, so you could hang one for several hours and then seal it up in a zip lock bag until you need it again. Good luck! I hate those darn bugs!

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Guest Mr_Smith

anyone have any experience with CAP ebb and grow....I recently set one up and the control module is already jacked up (the "full" solenoid never signals that its full so it will eventually overflow the control module)...

 

1) anyone have any experience getting in contact with this company and how are they to deal with?

2) should I just take it back to the store???

 

any advice would be great.....

 

You want to call r&m supply..

 

If you have a hard time getting them to help you pm me and I will call for you. Please try to do it yourself first though. 866.476.9768

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Thanks Bg! I know that alcohol will dissolve the trichs, so I've been careful to stay away from the buds. Just spraying my hands and rubbing the leaves. I'll cut them tomorrow, and treat them just as you said. The rest of the room's gonna get a lot of attention in the next few days. No webs yet, and not a whole lot of infestation. I just notiiced the spots on the leaves today, and found some on the underside of a few leaves. This is my first bout of spider mites, and I read everything I could find on them. I'll cut the whole plant and hang it, then deal with them as they migrate. Everything else gets soaked for awhile at 3-5 day increments. Grrrr... the tiniest things are the biggest pain in the arse!

 

 

 

Im not a big fan of the Hot Shot pest srips. They do work, kind of. I had a plant get chewed up pretty bad with a brand new strip only a few feet away. Guess I had to much faith in it.

 

Mighty wash is what im trying now. Expensive but it does appear to kills the eggs.(experimenting with my scope)

 

my 2 cents

 

I meant to repy to Nix oops :unsure:

Edited by Dlo
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I use hot shots for mites. I find them effective if I close off the vents for a while and then put them back in a ziplock.

 

This friend moved and gave me all of his home chemicles.

 

One of the things he gave me is a can of Raid. I know I'm gonna probably catch hell for saying this but,,I use a can of Raid Flea and tick killer on all the floors and walls and ceiling. Anywhere them buggers can hide.

I did a little research and this Raid flea& tick killers active ingrediant is simple Pyrethrin. This is a natural insecticide.

 

I don't spray it on or anywhere near the plants, but It seems to really work to kill all bugs anywhere they may be hiding.

 

I also spray tobacco juice with a small trace of Dawn dish soap. I can't afford Azamax but thats a great product for mites. Mitey wash gets expensive. I find that just spraying the sterile tobacco juice really totally prevents them but I have to be dilligent and spray all of the bottems a couple times a week.

 

Someone else mentioned sulfer candles in this thread and I'd like to check them out. The sulfer would prolly kill any critter in there quite effectively. thanks

 

 

ANymore,,I have a strict regiment of mite control that I strictly adhere to, esspecially this time of year it's like spider mite city. They even killed my 2 Arbor Via pine trees on the side of my house.

Thanks Bubble for the tip on how to free the plant from the mites. That's a great tip incase I encounter such a problem to keep the bugs out of the meds.

Edited by Eggybuddy
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tobacco juice is a bad idea, there's a virus that can be passed to your plants. no cure

 

bio-safe make a product with the same active ingredients as azamax. 16oz. for $12 at the grow shop, less than 10 at Lowes

Thanks: I'm aware of TMS (tobacco Mosaic? Syndrome) I did say 'sterile' tobacco solution.

I boil the solution for 20 mins or so. This may sound lame but, i can't afford only so many supplies.

But I will check lowes for what you have recommended and prolly pick some up. I like the smell of that Azamax so I may get some more of that when my budget allows. I'll search online and have a look at this bio-safe,,it sounds like a good deal.thanks again

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Thanks for all the dope on the frikkin spider mites.I appreciate all of your advice. I do a pretty diligent maintenance thing with the sprayer. Most of my strains go ten or eleven weeks under a traveling 1k. I try to spray every four days, but when I get to six weeks in bloom they're on their own. I just hope I've kept them free of pests to make it through the last four weeks or so. I probably brought the mites in after walking across the yard or something. I found them early, and I did harvest the infested plants. I removed all of the foliage when I trimmed. I made sure to dispose of it far from my grow. The younger plants got a generous spraying of diluted alcohol, then bathed in spectricide at lights out. I know that the mites are here, but for today they're under control. I set some no-pest strips out, but I don't like that stuff around my buds when they're close to harvest. My humidity has been low lately, probably just below 50%. Does that encourage the spider mites?

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i think i did have a light infiltration problem while i was working on my flower room i now have new growth stems starting to appear from what was my 4th week flowering cycle and they where looking excelent as far as week 4 buds look and now i have 7 or 8 budding sites with what seems to be the new groth prob and the buds aslo dont look like there budding anymore i also have lots of budding sites in the same group of plants that still look great the buds that are affected are all in a narrow strip pettern across the net that my see of green is laid out on therefor i belive that maybe just a beem of light was brought into the room while i was remodeling does this soud right?and if so what can or should do to same my meds? can i do nothing? should i cut the new growth ? how can i tell if it turns my plant hermie ? and is that neccesarly a very bad thing ? can my plants still do well whith this prob? please help thanks

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Hi Fred. It’s been a great labor day, and I’d imagine many of us are still relaxing and enjoying the holiday. You’re probably a little stressed about your girls. I think you’re gonna be ok. Can you fill in some blanks? What’s the strain? Do you have much experience with that strain, so you’re sure that this is something you’ve never seen before? Will you be able to identify male flowers if they start to develop? When the plant experiences night for a few cycles it starts to change. It takes a few more days, sometimes a couple weeks, but the plant should go into a stretch period. During the stretch the plant might grow quite a bit of structure getting ready to support big, beautiful flowers. Is it possible that this is what you see? If the plants have been stressed by enough of a light leak to hermie, then you’ll have to wait to see if male flowers develop. Some growers have been successful removing the gonads and never have any problem with their harvest. But just one pollen sack has the potential to seed up your whole flower room. It’s a grower’s call as to what you want to do. I’m sure some of the more experienced growers will join in. They’re probably huddled around the fire right now. Brrrr… it’s getting cold! Good luck!

 

 

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Hi Fred. It’s been a great labor day, and I’d imagine many of us are still relaxing and enjoying the holiday. You’re probably a little stressed about your girls. I think you’re gonna be ok. Can you fill in some blanks? What’s the strain? Do you have much experience with that strain, so you’re sure that this is something you’ve never seen before? Will you be able to identify male flowers if they start to develop? When the plant experiences night for a few cycles it starts to change. It takes a few more days, sometimes a couple weeks, but the plant should go into a stretch period. During the stretch the plant might grow quite a bit of structure getting ready to support big, beautiful flowers. Is it possible that this is what you see? If the plants have been stressed by enough of a light leak to hermie, then you’ll have to wait to see if male flowers develop. Some growers have been successful removing the gonads and never have any problem with their harvest. But just one pollen sack has the potential to seed up your whole flower room. It’s a grower’s call as to what you want to do. I’m sure some of the more experienced growers will join in. They’re probably huddled around the fire right now. Brrrr… it’s getting cold! Good luck!

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