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I just threw out some leaves that looked like that.  Bubble queen, end of the cycle.  Bubble queen and Pineapple Express are the only 2 strains I've run in the last year that have come up with magnesium deficiencies, sometimes early as 4 weeks into flower.  They're hogs. 

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Hopefully this has not already been covered here.

What is the best way to light seal a flower room door that has large gaps?

Thanks!

I got me a roll of the plastic, the stuff that is white on one side and black on the other, I cut off a piece that was like at least 2 or 3 ft larger than the door...do it on the side that will help you them most or do both sides of the door, plus I can always find something to do with that kind plastic, I have a lock on my main door to get into my grow, and I use about 1/3 of my room, I grow in tents, so I use that plastic on my ceilings and walls, im getting ready to yank carpet out of the rest of the room and white epoxy my floor!  plus the actualy sell zippers for that plastic so you can make your own door with the plastic also, on that I put plastic on both sides of the zipper door to make it lite tight, I also taped all of my corners inside of the tent with heating duct tape, not reg duck tape we use for all of the other hill bill rigings lol!

 

Peace

 

This thread is as old as dinosaure poop, bubble grower no longer is in here and I dont think he has his own site any longer either!

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This thread is as old as dinosaure poop, bubble grower no longer is in here and I dont think he has his own site any longer either!

Old as it may be, I for one think it's great to see this particular topic up and running. An "Ask the forum" type thing for plant diagnoses is always good for a read, even if for brushing up on random tidbits and the like.

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I have a 10 gal tote with a 3 hole lid, you can always cover one of the holes, I also have 2, five gallon lids with baskets, and A small 6 hole tote for clones, I have bubblers and all of the baskets that fit the holes for the totes, all of the hose for bubblers,

 

I will give them to any one who can come and get them, I dont do dwc any longer,, all you need is the lites and your good to go!

 

I would realy love some one interested in dwc to get these or some one who already is into dwc, the only requirment to get these is that you come and get them lol!

 

Peace

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Hopefully this image is better, this is from a plant that is three weeks into bud

yikes, how yellow is your plant overall? its got N deficiency. which is good in flower because you dont want N in your flowers anyhow.

 

dunno what the other deficiency is. might also be ph problem but dont quote me on that.

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  • 1 year later...

yes you can take apart your carbon filter and replace the carbon.

 

but i'd say its pretty difficult.

 

you can get replacement activated carbon from either aquarium suppliers or buy biochar in bulk. theres various plain biochars on alibaba and amazon, i dont know how much char goes into a filter, 20 pounds? 30 pounds? you'll have to take apart the filter and weigh the char.

 

 

although i'm not sure if you want granulated biochar or chunk or powder... or activated or .... etc. you dont want "charged" biochar because that means they put microbes in it for soil amendment. you have to get raw biochar.

 

heres a michigan company selling biochar products, but not raw char, you could contact them and ask about costs of raw char? http://biopretasupersoil.com

 

or if you have a lot of time on your hands you can make your own biochar (aka charcoal) from free scrap wood (pallets?) and a burn barrel. then its free pretty much.

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activated carbon/activated charcoal is used for both liquid and air filtration. The difference is found in the size of the  pelletized carbon,  adjusted for air flow, pressure requirements. Carbon is typically used in a column contactor. The columns are called adsorbers and are designed specifically for air and water. The design is engineered for loading (amount of fluid per area cross section), contact time (a minimum contact time is needed to insure required removal) and pressure drop through the adsorber (needed to size container pressure rating and fan/pump design rating).

 

Air is best treated using large particles of carbon to reduce the pressure drop through the bed. Smaller particles are used with liquid applications to reduce the distance the chemicals have to travel to be adsorbed inside the carbon. Whether your project treats vapor or liquid, there are different sized carbon particles available. There are all different substrates such as coal or coconut shell base carbon to consider.

 

Phresh filters are now reusable as advertised. They have easy on/off lids for carbon refresh.

If stink isn't an issue the old carbon can be "refreshed" with heat, but much easier to buy/replace I find.

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Took the old carbon filter apart and dumped out the carbon. Cleaned out the outer and inner filter material and re-assembled. Filter seems to be working so far, will be 5 days before I get the new filter. So should get that much out of the filter.

 

I did look at the Phresh filters and they were made in China too, so I just ordered the cheaper one.

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Make sure you use the right kind of carbon. There's carbon for water and then there is carbon for air. You can't use the kind you use for your air filter in your water filter. 

why not?   The only difference would be the surface area to volume ratio. 

Edited by garyfisher
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After taking apart the carbon filter, I would change the carbon only if I could get new cloth/fiber that holds the carbon in place.

 

I have no idea where a person could purchase this material. It almost looks like the material they use in landscaping. The black fiber material laid down in landscape hills etc.

 

It is easy to drill out the rivets and disassemble. Nothing to putting the carbon back in too.

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