cazzie Posted June 2, 2010 Report Share Posted June 2, 2010 Anyone know how to get rid of spider mites? I bought 600 lady bugs a few weeks ago but cant find a single one now? Do indoor growers use insectacide. help !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MightyMightyMezz Posted June 2, 2010 Report Share Posted June 2, 2010 Lacewings sound like they are more effective against mites. When they hatch they are in larval form and go around eating every mite and mite egg they can find. In the meantime you can make a spray with tobacco, lemon juice and cayenne that should seriously set them back. I wouldn't use chemical pesticides, but if it comes to that, a Pyrethrum based insecticide might be less dangerous. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DLD420 Posted June 2, 2010 Report Share Posted June 2, 2010 The Tobacco, Lemon juice and pepper spray works very well for me. I also use a no pest strip while in veg and for the first 3 weeks of flowering and haven't seen a mite in my last 3 grows. Just be sure to keep everything as clean as possible, no leaf matter or like materials laying around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtarzanmd Posted June 2, 2010 Report Share Posted June 2, 2010 How to Get Rid of Spider Mites Getting rid of spider mites (often incorrectly spelled spidermites) from your garden is priority number one if you’re recognized a spider mite infestation because in the world of horticulture there are mites and then there are spider mites, or what we can call the two-spotted mite. Spider mite populations grow so quickly that often times a farmer or gardener is caught off guard. Warm, dry temperatures make the perfect climate for the spider mite’s reproductive cycle, which leaves your plants susceptible not only to drought but also to the spider mite’s tenacious appetite. If you’ve noticed the signs of a mite infestation described on your left, and you’re dealing primarily with flowers, it may be in your best interest to turn to a miticide for the quickest and most effective control. However, if you’re a farmer or a gardener tending vegetables and herbs, you may want to consider an integrated pest management approach, which is what we’ll explain below: how to get rid of spider mites and control spider mite populations without insecticides or miticides, as the case may be. The first step toward getting rid of spider mites is to isolate the plants, but keep the infested plants clustered.Isolating your plants will reduce the risk of spider mite migration. Spider mites are quite adept at riding air currents to and from the plants they wish to feed on. Keeping your plants in clusters will help retain moisture by reducing airflow between the plants. Spider mites are not very keen on moist climates; they need the evaporative properties of an arid climate to reproduce more efficiently. Retaining humidity and moisture is a good way to get rid of spider mites. This can be accomplished in several ways. If you’re tending potted plants, keeping your pots over a platter of water will help keep immediate moisture levels up. If you’re tending to garden plants, you may want to consider putting in peat moss to fill the gaps between plants. Of course, the best way to keep humidity and moisture levels high is to bring your plants indoors where they can be misted with very cold water on a regular basis (2-3 times a day). The same treatment can be done to outdoor plants with firm but careful sprayings to help drown the mites and remove them from the plants. Keeping plants out of the late afternoon sun and/or arid weather is perhaps your best defense against spider mites.This may not be possible for those of us who cannot remove plants via pots, but any way to provide shade to damaged or weakened plants during the warmer hours of the day will help. For indoor plants, drawing the shades or moving plants out of direct sunlight should help dissuade spider mites from taking up permanent residency. You may also want to consider setting a humidifier next to any affected plants. It has been suggested that spraying plants with a 1:1 mixture of alcohol and water will kill spider mites on contact. Rubbing alcohol, like any alcohol for any creature, is poisonous in high dosages, and it evaporates quickly doing little damage to the plant it’s been sprayed on. Some people suggest a 1:3 mixture of rubbing alcohol to water, but the strong the mixture, the more certain you are to get as many mites as possible. Make sure to cover the entire plant, focusing on the bottoms of the leaves where spider mites tend to hang out. If all else fails, miticides are, of course, one of the most effective forms of spider mite treatments and the fastest way to get rid of spider mites—usually . It all depends on the kind of miticide that you choose. Some of the most common miticides are Avid, Kelthane, and just about anything that contains pyrethoids. These chemicals should be applied once every five days until all signs of spider mite infestation have gone. Again, people gardening vegetables and herbs should try every other avenue before using miticides, including the biological mite controls described below. Biological Mite Control Predatory mites are, in many new age gardener’s opinions, the best way to control spider mites. Predatory mites are mites that do not feed on plants but on other mites, like the two-spotted mite, for instance. Predatory mites can usually be mail-ordered from a horticultural warehouse or purchased online from any number of online gardening vendors. For the sake of brevity, we will cover just three of the most common predatory mites used to kill and control spider mites: Phytoseiulus persimilis is referred to by the Cornell University Extension office as “ one of the mainstays of greenhouse integrated pest management.” The great thing about this species of mite is that it cleans up after itself once the spider mite population is gone—cannibalizing on each other, thus decimating their own populations. Metaseiulus occidentalis is another common predatory mite used to kill spider mites. It is an effective biological control only if temperatures are on average between 44 degrees and 89 degrees Fahrenheit. Phytoseiulus longpipes is essentially a variant of the Phytoseiulus persimilis mite brought in from Africa which can stand warmer ambient temperatures than its North American cousins. Longpipes is seeing a gain in popularity among gardeners who would rather deploy a biological spider mite control agent than a chemical or physical control. copy and Paste from : http://www.getridofthings.com/get-rid-of-spider-mites.htm Hope this helps ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grow Thread Posted June 2, 2010 Report Share Posted June 2, 2010 Anyone know how to get rid of spider mites? I bought 600 lady bugs a few weeks ago but cant find a single one now? Do indoor growers use insectacide. help !! lol, lost 600 ladybugs? a common mistake for newer growers to make while using the ladybug technique is to forget they like the light. A LOT if an agent is not used to glue the wings of the ladybug closed, they will fly directly into your lamp and die. obviously this would leave dead bug carcasses all over your floor. but if they are just "gone" then i am as lost as you are. as far as using insecticides indoors? oh yeah. unfortunately it has to be done occasionally. some folks like to go the organic route, some like the home remedy thing, and some just blast the little gentlemen with anything they can get their hands on. if you just have a plant or two, then i would go with the tobacco juice/water mix. if you have an infested forest, you may want to try another, more harsh route like http://www.lowes.com...:ProductDisplay it's 70% neem oil, but it does have some bad stuff in it too. mix/use as directed on package. immediately spray down with clean water after application to wash away any residue/dead bugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SublimeWind Posted June 3, 2010 Report Share Posted June 3, 2010 Organocide... Even just saw it at Home Depot.. Completely organic... Main ingredient Sesame Oil...!! It even acts as a fungicide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnB RPh Posted June 3, 2010 Report Share Posted June 3, 2010 After I became concerned about prolonged use of insecticides in my basement,even though they claimed to be organic, I had very good success with a mixture of 1 tablespoonful of pure Canola oil mixed with 1 liter of water sprayed on (ideally) on the undersides of the leaves, twice a week. I was worried about it clogging the pores on the plants, but with a six week turn-around it never seemed to be a problem, in fact, the plants seemed to like it. I think it didn't kill the mites as I could never seem to be completely rid of them, regardless of what method I used. Every time I thought they were completely gone and became lax watching out for them, they would reappear. God, how I hated spider mites. If it's feasible and safe given your grow set-up and down time, you might consider a fogging spray like Dr Doom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingdiamond Posted June 3, 2010 Report Share Posted June 3, 2010 Hot shot pest strips kills everything in your grow room. I use them and i get blood cultures every 90 days for my thyroid cancer with no ill effects. Now ill just step back and let everyone tell you how dangerous they are while i smoke a joint of some sweet bud reclaimed from the mites infestation . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DLD420 Posted June 9, 2010 Report Share Posted June 9, 2010 darn man how da heck did ya get yours lit mine just melts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregS Posted June 9, 2010 Report Share Posted June 9, 2010 Neem oil works real well. If planting in soil, it is good to mix @ 1 tsp/qt and spray on the root ball and incorporate into the soil every few weeks. I repot twice into larger ones and do this at those times. Spraying the solution onto the plants every week or two with the exception of the last three or four weeks in bloom will keep you clean. To eliminate fungus gnats, disturb the top inch or so of the soil in your pots frequently. This disrupts the egg cycle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bisharoo Posted June 9, 2010 Report Share Posted June 9, 2010 This is how to test for spider mites in your meds Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest finallyfree09 Posted August 24, 2010 Report Share Posted August 24, 2010 bump! some important stuff in this here thread! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puff Posted August 25, 2010 Report Share Posted August 25, 2010 Hot shot pest strips kills everything in your grow room. I use them and i get blood cultures every 90 days for my thyroid cancer with no ill effects. Now ill just step back and let everyone tell you how dangerous they are while i smoke a joint of some sweet bud reclaimed from the mites infestation . I don't know about the Hot shots pest strips I've used 2 of them together in a closet for spider mites with absolutely no effect on the little buggers. I think I would ( for mites ) stick to one of the drtarzanmd's remedies. peace , no ill intended king Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mayorherb Posted August 25, 2010 Report Share Posted August 25, 2010 Anyone know how to get rid of spider mites? I bought 600 lady bugs a few weeks ago but cant find a single one now? Do indoor growers use insectacide. help !! floramite /sm-90/ then ph at 5.5 and spray whole room plants and out side of room.. should be good after that..floramite on e-bay all you need s 1 oz bottle,, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Son Posted August 25, 2010 Report Share Posted August 25, 2010 Man I've been there. I notice in your posts you said "buds". This and chemical sprays or neem oil don't go together well. If its that late in the game then just use cold water and a powerful sprayer. Spray every leaf underside especially, and the bud. It is a lot of work, but if you do this twice a day you can at least control the mites until you harvest. Then bomb the room and use repellents etc. for the next batch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kruztydj Posted August 25, 2010 Report Share Posted August 25, 2010 use a 50/50 mix of rubbing achol and water for late budding plants and azamax for the rest. Use every 3 days for atleast a month. I spray with azamax at 15ml per gallon and then water with a mix of 10ml per gallon of water.Bomb the rooms with dr doom spray every 5 days and hang several hotshot no pest strips. You have to do treatments every 3 to 5 days or they will be back.................. good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Dizledot Posted August 25, 2010 Report Share Posted August 25, 2010 Anyone know how to get rid of spider mites? I bought 600 lady bugs a few weeks ago but cant find a single one now? Do indoor growers use insectacide. help !! Hot Shot strips! They are great....no fuss....easy....no mixing! I only have to leave mine up for 3 to 4 days and the mites are gone. I will put it in a zip lock and use it only as needed. Dizz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glaucoma1 Posted August 25, 2010 Report Share Posted August 25, 2010 I don't know about the Hot shots pest strips I've used 2 of them together in a closet for spider mites with absolutely no effect on the little buggers. I think I would ( for mites ) stick to one of the drtarzanmd's remedies. peace , no ill intended king You gotta take them out of the package ...lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reddy Posted August 26, 2010 Report Share Posted August 26, 2010 don't use hot shot no pest. these will kill your plants, animals and you. mites can also become resistant to them. they only work with no airflow and aren't effective after a week. how to test NPS toxicity, put one in a sealed dome with young plants, dead in 12 hours, put one in a cage with a rat, dead in a week. people on this forum flower with them, know where your meds are coming from folks. try these products instead; forbid, floramite, avid. use twice, rotate usage so you don't develop resistant strains of mites. neem oil works ok, but it doesn't get rid of the eggs, same problem all over again once they hatch. also can burn a plant if sprayed too heavy. you may think you have mites but they're actually thirps, use spinosad and mosquito dunks for that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
super12 Posted August 27, 2010 Report Share Posted August 27, 2010 I use double sided tape around all my post as a preventative. also look into spider mier predators all they do is eat spider mites and hang out the same place spidermites do under the leafs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nemosity Posted August 27, 2010 Report Share Posted August 27, 2010 Questions. What time of the day do you spray this flammable mixture on your plants? What effect does it have on Trich production in late flower? That's a hell of a question, and one I'd like to know the answer too. I've read about using alcohol and water, but since Tinctures are made using alcohol, which dissolves the medicinal qualities.... anyway I hear ya, and would like to know as well. What's the flowers look like under a x30 loop after two or three sprayings? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Dizledot Posted August 27, 2010 Report Share Posted August 27, 2010 don't use hot shot no pest. these will kill your plants, animals and you. mites can also become resistant to them. they only work with no airflow and aren't effective after a week. how to test NPS toxicity, put one in a sealed dome with young plants, dead in 12 hours, put one in a cage with a rat, dead in a week. people on this forum flower with them, know where your meds are coming from folks. try these products instead; forbid, floramite, avid. use twice, rotate usage so you don't develop resistant strains of mites. neem oil works ok, but it doesn't get rid of the eggs, same problem all over again once they hatch. also can burn a plant if sprayed too heavy. you may think you have mites but they're actually thirps, use spinosad and mosquito dunks for that. The Hot Shot Strips will work and the mites will not become resistant to it. I've used them in a room with fans blowing and they still did the trick. You only leave the strip up for 2 to 4 days and put it in a zip lock after that. Only need to use it when you have a mite issue. Four days with pest strip up in same grow room as my clones did no damage but did get rid of mites. That was a month ago......quick and easy. Of course anything in a sealed dome with a pesticide will die. Most grow rooms have ventilation. Dizz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BubbleBerryKush Posted August 31, 2010 Report Share Posted August 31, 2010 Wow I am just posting in a ton of threads today...I guess all the reading I have been doing on this forum in the last 6 months has made me want to finally post..... I have grown a full cycle with mites....the person who taught me told me that he had mites in almost every single one of this grows....which I acquired during mine via tainted cuttings....my advice to you is finish out this flower and treat your veg, neem (hydro store or english gardens) and hemp soap (whole foods), 1 tablespoon of each into a half gallon spray bottle (it does not matter the ratio of the mix as long as they are mixed well into the water)....spray the veg plants including the undersides of leafs, which makes it way easier to do when the plants are small, wait 2 days spray them with regular water, 2 days later re-apply the need mixture, do this every 3 to 4 days for 3 weeks and you can kill their horrible cycle....and make sure to clean your flower room!!!!!!!!!!!! everything that is in the room needs to be wiped down atleast 2 times and then get a fogger to make sure everything is dead.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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