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Started My Liquid Bulb Cooler Last Night..


SublimeWind

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Hi all,

 

It seems i'm one of the first to be running a Freska Sol liquid bulb cooler..

 

Well, started her up for the first time last night..

 

I'm running a 1000w Hortilux/Sun Harvest Pro combo with it..

 

Well, it's hard for me to move water through my system, mostly 1/2" line.. I've got and EcoPlus 1056 pushing on the system and a 633 PULLING.. But it DOES move water (the circuit is almost 20ft long and very convoluted)

 

Over the course of the first 12hr cycle it took my rez (50gal) from ambient (about 75) to almost 100 degrees over the 12hrs..

 

I'm also getting a lot of bubbles, small bubbles, similar to what you see pre-boil on the pot of water.. on the inside glass, but it's NOT boiling..

 

 

NOW, the big thing.. you can place your hand to within inches of the bulb without feeling the "burn" it does trap a HUGE amount of raidient energy. The outside glass never gets hot..

 

Now I just need to see about getting better flow.. maybe, I will step up to 3/4" line for most of the loop..

 

so far so good, was a long night of babysitting, was up till 6am.. checking status..

 

So far, the room is running almost flawlessly.. Had a few small issues starting up..

 

Cheers,

Mojo

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Guest finallyfree09

so you got that other pump hooked up... cool. do the bubbles in the glass distort the light at all? maybe throw a little bit of ice in the resevoir. not too much though that might be bad.

 

glad to hear it worked well. :goodjob:

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Jipo, ill have to get back to you on that... i have pics, but on my phone right now...

 

Bubbles are gone today, completely clear...

 

Running on only the 1056 today, between the heat, a little extra tubing and a slight bend, and the inlet to the pulling pump colapsed. It seems to be doing better today on the single pump than it was on both yesterday..

 

I'm getting slow but decent cicurlation around the bulb... Seems to be running slightly cooler today, without the bubbles inside the glass...

 

The A/C system seems to be working well and the Setenial CHHC-1 IS PRETTY making whoopee COOL...

 

more and better update when im on my puter...

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I have been intrigued by these systems, but at the same time hesitant to try due to the idea of leaks. In reading your posts it occurred to me that this system is susceptible to the same sort of potential catastrophic failure that i once experienced with an aeroponic setup.

 

You may want to consider two water recirc pumps each on completely different elec. circuits.

 

I suggest this as the result of an experience I had with a water pump on an aeroponic system. I had three aero systems set up each w/ a their own pump and all three on the same timer. No problem with load (total of 150 watts for all three pumps), but one pump shorted out and took out the circuit breaker and all three pumps went down. Twelve hours latter when I checked in, the heat from the lights had toasted the garden. This was a very expensive lesson.

 

The two pumps on two different electric circuits is not as complicated as it might sound. On the water side, the pumps are just manifolded together with some simple inline check valves (these are pvc and can be purchased at HD for $7-8 each). Without the check valves one pump will just pump back thru the other one. On the elec side all you need is some basic electrical wiring knowledge. You get a 4" electric box with a cover that has space for two duplex outlets. In addition you will need what they call a "Relay in a box" These are about $15 and you can get them from Grainger (Industrial supply store w/ outlets all over MI). The "Relay in a Box" (the industry refers to them as RIB's) is basically an electric switch. You wire up the 4" box with two hard wired power cords each long enough to be able to plug into outlets that are on different circuit breakers. Inside the 4" box one power cord goes to one duplex and to the control circuit of the RIB. The other power cord connects thru the RIB to the second duplex. The way the system works is power from one circuit provides power to one of your pumps and it also holds the RIB circuit open so that no power goes to the outlet that the second pump is plugged into. If power on the first circuit fails for whatever reason, the RIB closes and allows the power circuit to be completed to the second pump. All totaled (not counting the second pump) the check valves, RIB and electrical parts this setup will total some $60-70.

 

This may sound expensive and over done, but as you get into more and more sophisticated systems, i.e. aeroponics, water cooling, etc, they have the potential to really increase yield, but at the same time, they are prone to very expensive failures.

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I have been intrigued by these systems, but at the same time hesitant to try due to the idea of leaks. In reading your posts it occurred to me that this system is susceptible to the same sort of potential catastrophic failure that i once experienced with an aeroponic setup.

 

You may want to consider two water recirc pumps each on completely different elec. circuits.

 

I suggest this as the result of an experience I had with a water pump on an aeroponic system. I had three aero systems set up each w/ a their own pump and all three on the same timer. No problem with load (total of 150 watts for all three pumps), but one pump shorted out and took out the circuit breaker and all three pumps went down. Twelve hours latter when I checked in, the heat from the lights had toasted the garden. This was a very expensive lesson.

 

The two pumps on two different electric circuits is not as complicated as it might sound. On the water side, the pumps are just manifolded together with some simple inline check valves (these are pvc and can be purchased at HD for $7-8 each). Without the check valves one pump will just pump back thru the other one. On the elec side all you need is some basic electrical wiring knowledge. You get a 4" electric box with a cover that has space for two duplex outlets. In addition you will need what they call a "Relay in a box" These are about $15 and you can get them from Grainger (Industrial supply store w/ outlets all over MI). The "Relay in a Box" (the industry refers to them as RIB's) is basically an electric switch. You wire up the 4" box with two hard wired power cords each long enough to be able to plug into outlets that are on different circuit breakers. Inside the 4" box one power cord goes to one duplex and to the control circuit of the RIB. The other power cord connects thru the RIB to the second duplex. The way the system works is power from one circuit provides power to one of your pumps and it also holds the RIB circuit open so that no power goes to the outlet that the second pump is plugged into. If power on the first circuit fails for whatever reason, the RIB closes and allows the power circuit to be completed to the second pump. All totaled (not counting the second pump) the check valves, RIB and electrical parts this setup will total some $60-70.

 

This may sound expensive and over done, but as you get into more and more sophisticated systems, i.e. aeroponics, water cooling, etc, they have the potential to really increase yield, but at the same time, they are prone to very expensive failures.

 

I need more info on this Sir..!!

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Not sure what more info to give you short of a detailed electrical drawing.

 

The circuitry is really quite simple. You are creating an outlet box with two duplex units http://electrical.hardwarestore.com/14-45-box-covers/double-duplex-outlet-230490.aspx (a duplex outlet is your regular wall outlet which has two sockets). The result is you will have a 4"x4" metal electric box http://electrical.hardwarestore.com/14-45-electrical-boxes-metal/square-box-239574.aspx (can easily be screwed to a wall). It will have two power cords coming out (these could also be hard wired romex that goes to your electric panel. Each power cord will be plugged into an outlet that is on a different electric circuit (i.e. the outlets you plug into must not be on the same circuit breaker). Inside the box, one power cord is wired to one of the duplex outlets and also to the control circuit on the relay (RIB http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/5LE35?Pid=search ), the control circuit wire is identified on the RIB. As an aside, the RIB is made to screw into the side of your 4"box and it comes with a drawing that identifies all the wires coming out of it. The drawing will identify the control circuit wire and it will identify which wires create a "Normally Closed" (NC) circuit and a "Normally Open" (NO) circuit. What this means if you have no electrical background is that the RIB is basically an electrically operated switch. Without any power applied to the RIB's control circuit, the pair of wires identified as NC create a clear path for the power to pass thru and the pair identified as NO do not allow power to pass thru. With that understanding, you take your second power cord, connect the green and white leads to the appropriate spots on the second duplex. Next you take the black lead and connect it to one of the two pair of leads from the RIB labelled, NC. The other lead from the RIB goes to the brass/gold colored screw on the second duplex.

 

The way it will work is you plug your main water pump into the first duplex outlet and your backup into the second duplex outlet. There will be no power at the second duplex unless for some reason you lose power from the first power cord, i.e. disconnected, short circuit, etc. If power is lost to the first outlet, the control circuit on the RIB closes and power will be applied to the second duplex, i.e. where your backup pump is plugged in.

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I have looked into the liquid-cooled lights, but I can't justify that expense. The people I've talked to who do have the liquid-cooled hoods are most happy with how much closer they can put the light to the plants...and this was the selling point a guy at a grow store explained to me...but then my response was, "If I have the light 3-6 inches from the plants rather than 9-12 inches, then it will only cover half as much area." And he responded "Then you can just move the light higher." But if I'm going to move the light higher, then why not go with an air-cooled hood, for $300 less per hood and not have to worry about leaks, etc.

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Not sure what more info to give you short of a detailed electrical drawing.

 

The circuitry is really quite simple. You are creating an outlet box with two duplex units http://electrical.hardwarestore.com/14-45-box-covers/double-duplex-outlet-230490.aspx (a duplex outlet is your regular wall outlet which has two sockets). The result is you will have a 4"x4" metal electric box http://electrical.hardwarestore.com/14-45-electrical-boxes-metal/square-box-239574.aspx (can easily be screwed to a wall). It will have two power cords coming out (these could also be hard wired romex that goes to your electric panel. Each power cord will be plugged into an outlet that is on a different electric circuit (i.e. the outlets you plug into must not be on the same circuit breaker). Inside the box, one power cord is wired to one of the duplex outlets and also to the control circuit on the relay (RIB http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/5LE35?Pid=search ), the control circuit wire is identified on the RIB. As an aside, the RIB is made to screw into the side of your 4"box and it comes with a drawing that identifies all the wires coming out of it. The drawing will identify the control circuit wire and it will identify which wires create a "Normally Closed" (NC) circuit and a "Normally Open" (NO) circuit. What this means if you have no electrical background is that the RIB is basically an electrically operated switch. Without any power applied to the RIB's control circuit, the pair of wires identified as NC create a clear path for the power to pass thru and the pair identified as NO do not allow power to pass thru. With that understanding, you take your second power cord, connect the green and white leads to the appropriate spots on the second duplex. Next you take the black lead and connect it to one of the two pair of leads from the RIB labelled, NC. The other lead from the RIB goes to the brass/gold colored screw on the second duplex.

 

The way it will work is you plug your main water pump into the first duplex outlet and your backup into the second duplex outlet. There will be no power at the second duplex unless for some reason you lose power from the first power cord, i.e. disconnected, short circuit, etc. If power is lost to the first outlet, the control circuit on the RIB closes and power will be applied to the second duplex, i.e. where your backup pump is plugged in.

 

 

Thank you VERY much Sir.. I will be looking at lot closer at this for sure

 

sometimes sublimewind makes me in awe.. :-)

 

Y thank you..!!

 

I hope it's insipiration more than anything.. if I can help one person do better somewhere, i've done my job.. more the better..

 

Wondering how your Light setup is working out? Have you noticed its reservoir start to store heat in it yet? Like it doesn't cool down enough between cycles? Esp being on 18hrs?

 

SSo far so good.. The rez doesn't seem to be heat loading that bad.. I've been tweeking things and havn't been monitoring temp the past few days...I'm having other (nutrient) issues.. I haven't seen a temp over say 110 in the rez..

 

I added a cup or so of bleach to the rez the other day.. I was growing things on the glass of the cooler.. next day, clear..

 

I'm running 12/12 and it usually cools to about 80-85

 

I have looked into the liquid-cooled lights, but I can't justify that expense. The people I've talked to who do have the liquid-cooled hoods are most happy with how much closer they can put the light to the plants...and this was the selling point a guy at a grow store explained to me...but then my response was, "If I have the light 3-6 inches from the plants rather than 9-12 inches, then it will only cover half as much area." And he responded "Then you can just move the light higher." But if I'm going to move the light higher, then why not go with an air-cooled hood, for $300 less per hood and not have to worry about leaks, etc.

 

Part of my reasioning on using this is my space.. 36" wide and 93" long.. I can get in tight with it.. with my width..

 

But really it removes a LOT of heat.. I priced out both set-ups and I found only about 100$ difference once you look at the difference in a 80$ water pump and a 200$ exhaust fan..

 

I'm running a EcoPlus 1056 on the system, ~80$

 

A EcoPlus classic inline is 180-200$ (I support my local guy too, I try not to Ebay as much)

 

The freska sol i got for 250 and added the 30$ wing.. a middle of the road Sun Systems hood with 6" attachments would be about 220..

 

so it's either

 

280-300+80

or

220+180-200

 

It removes a lot more raidient heat than an air cooled unit i'm sure.. I'm running a 1000w HPS in the cooler and have zero issues holding any temp i wish.. in my small space..

 

You can also get a pretty wide spead of light with the wing reflector if you just bend out the reflector you can get pretty wide..

 

Again. my space works for this.. if I move to something bigger, well, I might have to change..

 

Have you figured out how much light diffusion it causes?

 

I have not.. But it would be about that of .75-1" of water in all directions.. :P It's prettly clear though.. I wish I could get a decent pic, but my camera goes all wonky in the light...

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