Finishing Agents

[samtheclam]

I am wondering if i could use kool bloom with my fox farm trio. i cant afford the fox farm trio right now. I had one friend says he uses thi sproduct and said he has had good results. I heard molasas, i seen this stuff called atomic bizz or something and green fuse, i have never used anything and i know this stuff is strong. Also is it better to use when i fertiler or straight reverse osmosis water? Please i need advice!!

[samtheclam]

Some people say i am not reaching the full potential with out thsi stuff. i ahve not been dissapointed with what i have so far. So I just do not know. Hard to make descions. I think i might do any experiment. i have 2 sour ds in bloom. i am going to give one this and one none. i have 3 to 4 weeks before my first application of kool bloom (the one i am leaning toward).

[S_C]

I use a all-in-one bloom builder called Bloombostic. You can use it with any nute regiment.

And yes, it does make a very noticeable difference. Denser buds, bigger yield and seems to shorten flowering a bit.

 

Molasses is also a great thing to feed your girls around the 3rd or 4th week of flower (give them the molasses with a regular watering) Molasses is a carb, feeding it to your plants during flower when they are burning through alot of carbs will fatten up your buds. 1-2 tbspn per gallon of water and I only give them one shot of it. to much and the soil will get "gummy" and you'll prob attract some bugs.

[lkline300]

Be careful when mixing brands not to duplicate to much of something.

 

Molasses or succant works great & also helps to release N & other nutrients from soil IMO.

 

If you already using grow big & big bloom use the cha ching & drop the other 2 additives, tiger & open s if the cost is too much. The first 3 along with ffof soil works great.

[G3LLO]

I use Humboldt Ginormous

[S_C]

 

 

Molasses or succant works great & also helps to release N & other nutrients from soil IMO.

 

Right, This is actually one of the reasons I feed the plants molasses in 3rd or 4th week of flower. I would normally give them a shot of N about then anyways, but now i skip that dose of N and feed them the molasses.

 

Different things work for different folks!

[samtheclam]

Thanks for all the advice.

[Guest drcanna-pest]

Some people say i am not reaching the full potential with out thsi stuff. i ahve not been dissapointed with what i have so far. So I just do not know. Hard to make descions. I think i might do any experiment. i have 2 sour ds in bloom. i am going to give one this and one none. i have 3 to 4 weeks before my first application of kool bloom (the one i am leaning toward).

 

 

when flowering cannabis likes a very little to no more nitorgen and high phosphorus. I use Beastie Blooms and ChaChing. 0-50-30. I would use SOMETHING on the other sourd. definitely use ro water. when in flowering cannabis uses much more nutes as well. just go to the local grow store and find a cheap solution with high phosphorus...

[AbsoluteRoyal]

when flowering cannabis likes a very little to no more nitorgen and high phosphorus. I use Beastie Blooms and ChaChing. 0-50-30. I would use SOMETHING on the other sourd. definitely use ro water. when in flowering cannabis uses much more nutes as well. just go to the local grow store and find a cheap solution with high phosphorus...

 

I disagree and here is why. =provided by Uncle Ben=

 

The never ending abuse of Phosphorous (Bloom foods) to enhance flowering

I wrote this years ago and thought I'd share it here.

 

The never ending abuse of Phosphorous to enhance flowering

 

A common mistake for growers when they reach the flowering stage is to start hitting the plants with a high P fert like a 10-50-10, continuing to use this blend exclusively, and when their plants start experiencing a deficit of N, Ca, Mg or micros as reflected by the dropping of lower leaves and chlorosis, they wonder why. Plants flower as a response to long nights, not because of fert blends high in P. A ratio of 10-60-10 is WAY too high in P. The plant will only take what it needs and compete for other elements that may be more important at the time.

 

You may have heard that too much N can inhibit flowering. No question about it, exclusive use of a plant food that is rich in N such as blood meal, a 5-1-1 blend, or ammonium nitrate/sulfate may inhibit flowering especially if the phosphorous level is low, but most balanced blends have sufficient amount of P to do the job. The question is - "how much P is enough to support a good flowering response and still retain my leaves?"

 

Manufacturers/horticulturists will give you element analysis and what effect the elements have on plant growth, but remember this does not necessarily mean you will get better yields. Using a high P fert exclusively during flowering can actually work against you due to impending leaf drop. It's an abundant amount of healthy leaves going into 12/12 and maintaining their health that produces a lot of bud, not high P ferts.

 

I rotate fert blends as the plant *requires* them, not because it is "the thing to do." For example, when your plants are going thru the stretch phase during early flowering, they may need more N, especially if you're getting some yellowing in the lower leaves. Give up the cannabis paradigms and give them what they need. Go back to mild high P fert when the stretch ends, maintaining the foliage in a healthy state of growth until harvest for maximum yields. A 1-3-2 blend such as Peter's Pro Blossom Booster, 10-30-20, is one of the best flowering blends on the market because of several factors - it is higher in nitrate N and Mg. It is sold under the Jack's Classic label. An added benefit of Peters blends is their use of high quality, very pure salts that will eliminate root burn if used judiciously.

 

Uncle Ben

[GanjaWarrior]

I disagree and here is why. =provided by Uncle Ben=

 

The never ending abuse of Phosphorous (Bloom foods) to enhance flowering

I wrote this years ago and thought I'd share it here.

 

The never ending abuse of Phosphorous to enhance flowering

 

A common mistake for growers when they reach the flowering stage is to start hitting the plants with a high P fert like a 10-50-10, continuing to use this blend exclusively, and when their plants start experiencing a deficit of N, Ca, Mg or micros as reflected by the dropping of lower leaves and chlorosis, they wonder why. Plants flower as a response to long nights, not because of fert blends high in P. A ratio of 10-60-10 is WAY too high in P. The plant will only take what it needs and compete for other elements that may be more important at the time.

 

You may have heard that too much N can inhibit flowering. No question about it, exclusive use of a plant food that is rich in N such as blood meal, a 5-1-1 blend, or ammonium nitrate/sulfate may inhibit flowering especially if the phosphorous level is low, but most balanced blends have sufficient amount of P to do the job. The question is - "how much P is enough to support a good flowering response and still retain my leaves?"

 

Manufacturers/horticulturists will give you element analysis and what effect the elements have on plant growth, but remember this does not necessarily mean you will get better yields. Using a high P fert exclusively during flowering can actually work against you due to impending leaf drop. It's an abundant amount of healthy leaves going into 12/12 and maintaining their health that produces a lot of bud, not high P ferts.

 

I rotate fert blends as the plant *requires* them, not because it is "the thing to do." For example, when your plants are going thru the stretch phase during early flowering, they may need more N, especially if you're getting some yellowing in the lower leaves. Give up the cannabis paradigms and give them what they need. Go back to mild high P fert when the stretch ends, maintaining the foliage in a healthy state of growth until harvest for maximum yields. A 1-3-2 blend such as Peter's Pro Blossom Booster, 10-30-20, is one of the best flowering blends on the market because of several factors - it is higher in nitrate N and Mg. It is sold under the Jack's Classic label. An added benefit of Peters blends is their use of high quality, very pure salts that will eliminate root burn if used judiciously.

 

Uncle Ben

 

good info

[tricloud]

Greenfuse isn't a finishing agent. It's a growth stimulant used for bloom, veg and rooting.

[Guest drcanna-pest]

I disagree and here is why. =provided by Uncle Ben=

 

The never ending abuse of Phosphorous (Bloom foods) to enhance flowering

I wrote this years ago and thought I'd share it here.

 

The never ending abuse of Phosphorous to enhance flowering

 

A common mistake for growers when they reach the flowering stage is to start hitting the plants with a high P fert like a 10-50-10, continuing to use this blend exclusively, and when their plants start experiencing a deficit of N, Ca, Mg or micros as reflected by the dropping of lower leaves and chlorosis, they wonder why. Plants flower as a response to long nights, not because of fert blends high in P. A ratio of 10-60-10 is WAY too high in P. The plant will only take what it needs and compete for other elements that may be more important at the time.

 

You may have heard that too much N can inhibit flowering. No question about it, exclusive use of a plant food that is rich in N such as blood meal, a 5-1-1 blend, or ammonium nitrate/sulfate may inhibit flowering especially if the phosphorous level is low, but most balanced blends have sufficient amount of P to do the job. The question is - "how much P is enough to support a good flowering response and still retain my leaves?"

 

Manufacturers/horticulturists will give you element analysis and what effect the elements have on plant growth, but remember this does not necessarily mean you will get better yields. Using a high P fert exclusively during flowering can actually work against you due to impending leaf drop. It's an abundant amount of healthy leaves going into 12/12 and maintaining their health that produces a lot of bud, not high P ferts.

 

I rotate fert blends as the plant *requires* them, not because it is "the thing to do." For example, when your plants are going thru the stretch phase during early flowering, they may need more N, especially if you're getting some yellowing in the lower leaves. Give up the cannabis paradigms and give them what they need. Go back to mild high P fert when the stretch ends, maintaining the foliage in a healthy state of growth until harvest for maximum yields. A 1-3-2 blend such as Peter's Pro Blossom Booster, 10-30-20, is one of the best flowering blends on the market because of several factors - it is higher in nitrate N and Mg. It is sold under the Jack's Classic label. An added benefit of Peters blends is their use of high quality, very pure salts that will eliminate root burn if used judiciously.

 

Uncle Ben

 

 

 

okay well when I switched to Beastie Bloomz and Cha Ching I noticed a significant difference. why wouldn't i use it if the strains I grow love it?

[AbsoluteRoyal]

okay well when I switched to Beastie Bloomz and Cha Ching I noticed a significant difference. why wouldn't i use it if the strains I grow love it?

 

Do what works for you, If you can maintain green healthy foliage with 0-50-30 more power to you