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The Good And The Bad


totung

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I noticed a problem last night when I was watering so I took the good camera down to get some shots.

 

I got a GOOD shot of the top bud on one of the Dynamite plants

 

http://www.michiganmedicalmarijuana.org/uploads/1293723163/gallery_16042_540_491689.jpg

 

now for the BAD

 

They are in 1:1 mix of Pro-Mix and perlite in 3 gallon pots

Plants are in day 17 in flower and on week 7 of the Fox Farm Soil Feeding schedule

The light is 1000watt HPS that is about 12 inches above the tops of the plants

The room gets down to 64 degrees when the light is off and is at 75 degrees when the light is on

 

They were watered on December 27, 2010 at 5:00 PM

The problem was noticed yesterday, December 29, 2010 at 9:00 AM

I fed them last night (week 7 Fox Farm Soil Feeding schedule), December 29, 2010 at 5:00PM

 

I went down there just now and took these photos right after the lights came on.

 

http://www.michiganmedicalmarijuana.org/uploads/1293723163/gallery_16042_540_506099.jpg

 

http://www.michiganmedicalmarijuana.org/uploads/1293723163/gallery_16042_540_606348.jpg

 

http://www.michiganmedicalmarijuana.org/uploads/1293723163/gallery_16042_540_770209.jpg

 

http://www.michiganmedicalmarijuana.org/uploads/1293723163/gallery_16042_540_314849.jpg

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Guest MosCutty

Wish I could see the stem of the plant.

Don't have ff feeding handy however, it looks like you need K to me. Or you have a lockout due to N build up. Maybe flush with one gallon w/ tablespoon of mag. Then restart flowering nutes. I'm sure others will have ideas :thumbsu:

 

I've never run Promix but, I always bump K in my soil grows in flowering. I like roots organics HP

 

Just noticed you said you feed at night before the lights go off?

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Guest MosCutty

Lights go on at 12 noon

 

I feed around 5 PM

 

Lights go off at midnight

 

I have been doing that since they went into flower with no problems, until now of course

Okay your good there just wanted to be sure you weren't water at the end of the night. End of the day= root rot I always water at the start of the day.

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I noticed a problem last night when I was watering so I took the good camera down to get some shots.

 

I got a GOOD shot of the top bud on one of the Dynamite plants

 

http://www.michiganm..._540_491689.jpg

 

now for the BAD

 

They are in 1:1 mix of Pro-Mix and perlite in 3 gallon pots

Plants are in day 17 in flower and on week 7 of the Fox Farm Soil Feeding schedule

The light is 1000watt HPS that is about 12 inches above the tops of the plants

The room gets down to 64 degrees when the light is off and is at 75 degrees when the light is on

 

They were watered on December 27, 2010 at 5:00 PM

The problem was noticed yesterday, December 29, 2010 at 9:00 AM

I fed them last night (week 7 Fox Farm Soil Feeding schedule), December 29, 2010 at 5:00PM

 

I went down there just now and took these photos right after the lights came on.

 

http://www.michiganm..._540_506099.jpg

 

http://www.michiganm..._540_606348.jpg

 

http://www.michiganm..._540_770209.jpg

 

http://www.michiganm..._540_314849.jpg

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I would say lock out do to improper p.h. of the incoming water and the soil. first clue is when it happens this fast..

 

And in one of the pics you can see the spots, leaf curl under,and the wilting/browning of the leaf tips.

 

gallery_16042_540_770209.jpg

check your water i bet its high this time of year if you have city water. always is.. and i bet your potters have built up a high p.h. in the soil as well.

start by flushing the potter with P.H. adjusted water .. and make sure to adjust and check your water every time..

 

 

just my 2 cents

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Guest MosCutty

This is the way I use to run FF in bloom with great outcome:

 

first two weeks,

1/2 teaspoon grow big

1/2 tables of Big Bloom

1/2 tablespoon of Roots Organic HP

 

3-5 weeks

1/2 teaspoon of grow big

1 tablespoon of Big bloom

1 Tablespoon of Roots HP

5-7 weeks

no grow big

1 tablespoon of Big Bloom

1-2 Tablespoon of Roots HP

Flush

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Guest MosCutty

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I would say lock out do to improper p.h. of the incoming water and the soil. first clue is when it happens this fast..

 

And in one of the pics you can see the spots, leaf curl under,and the wilting/browning of the leaf tips.

 

gallery_16042_540_770209.jpg

check your water i bet its high this time of year if you have city water. always is.. and i bet your potters have built up a high p.h. in the soil as well.

start by flushing the potter with P.H. adjusted water .. and make sure to adjust and check your water every time..

 

 

just my 2 cents

Your right didn't ask about PH

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Hello Tutong,

 

64f seems a bit cold for me, I never let em go below 68f. How many layers of cardboard are your plants sitting on? This time of year there should be a nice buffer between pot and ground.

 

When the soil is too cold it prevents conversion of nutrient elements into usable forms. You definitively have deficiency s.

 

I would do a good flush and raise temp a bit. I also am a big advocate of food grade h202 foliage spray.

 

Good luck.

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I have two layers of 3/4 inch pink foam wall insulation along with 2 layers of cardboard between the bottom of the pots and the tile floor.

 

I have not flushed them since they went into flower. They are due to be watered tomorrow. I will give them a good flush then.

 

I was talking to the guy at Beste's this afternoon and he said that FF nutes lack cal/mag once you get into week 3/4 of flower. I am going to spray them with 1/4 strength cal/mag spray before the lights go out tonight.

 

Then, when I feed them next, I will add 1 tsp/gallon of cal/mag since FF nutes do not have what they need.

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I have two layers of 3/4 inch pink foam wall insulation along with 2 layers of cardboard between the bottom of the pots and the tile floor.

 

I have not flushed them since they went into flower. They are due to be watered tomorrow. I will give them a good flush then.

 

I was talking to the guy at Beste's this afternoon and he said that FF nutes lack cal/mag once you get into week 3/4 of flower. I am going to spray them with 1/4 strength cal/mag spray before the lights go out tonight.

 

Then, when I feed them next, I will add 1 tsp/gallon of cal/mag since FF nutes do not have what they need.

 

 

there ya go.. good call..

 

next run just dont use the fox farm stuff...

 

again just my 2 cents.

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Hello Tutong,

 

64f seems a bit cold for me, I never let em go below 68f. How many layers of cardboard are your plants sitting on? This time of year there should be a nice buffer between pot and ground.

 

When the soil is too cold it prevents conversion of nutrient elements into usable forms. You definitively have deficiency s.

 

I would do a good flush and raise temp a bit. I also am a big advocate of food grade h202 foliage spray.

 

Good luck.

 

 

i would not use cardboard it may get went and never dry out it would be nice to keep them off the cold floor but not cardboard IMO

make sure you let them dry out real good i think

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there ya go.. good call..

 

next run just dont use the fox farm stuff...

 

again just my 2 cents.

 

so far, FF hasn't given me any problems and the results are looking very nice

 

if all i need to do is add cal/mag then i will do that instead of changing the entire product line.

 

i would not use cardboard it may get went and never dry out it would be nice to keep them off the cold floor but not cardboard IMO

make sure you let them dry out real good i think

 

the cardboard hasn't gotten wet because i pull each plant and water/feed them over the tile floor that is in front of where the plants sit under the light.

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Guest MosCutty

I have two layers of 3/4 inch pink foam wall insulation along with 2 layers of cardboard between the bottom of the pots and the tile floor.

 

I have not flushed them since they went into flower. They are due to be watered tomorrow. I will give them a good flush then.

 

I was talking to the guy at Beste's this afternoon and he said that FF nutes lack cal/mag once you get into week 3/4 of flower. I am going to spray them with 1/4 strength cal/mag spray before the lights go out tonight.

 

Then, when I feed them next, I will add 1 tsp/gallon of cal/mag since FF nutes do not have what they need.

I agree, solid plan!

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i sprayed them with 1/4 strength cal/mag last night right before the lights went out

 

i can't wait until noon so i can get in there and see how they are doing!

 

they are on schedule to be watered today too.

 

i was debating if i should add 1 tsp/gallon of cal/mag to the water or if i should just wait until i feed next.

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Just got done checking on them.

 

It looks like the 1/4 strength cal/mag spray that i sprayed on them last night helped the leaves that were slightly discolored.

 

The leaves that were already at least 1/2 discolored are not going to turn around and will die off.

 

They are scheduled to be watered today. I will be doing that around 2:30 since I have plans for the evening.

 

Should I remove the leaves that are at least more than 1/2 discolored or should I leave them on and wait until they die and fall off?

 

Also, since I am watering today, do you think it would be a good idea to add 1 tsp of cal/mag to the water or should I wait until their next feeding on Sunday?

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Well, I watered them yesterday but didn't add the cal/mag into the water.

 

I figured it would be better to add it along with the nutes.

 

I checked on them before the light went out last night and they were looking much better.

 

I will see how they look today when the lights come back on at noon.

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Well, they didn't look the greatest yesterday.

 

The plants needed to be fed yesterday so I added 1tsp of cal/mag per gallon of water along with the other FF nutes.

 

I just got home for lunch and went down there to peek on them.

 

I believe the cal/mag helped some on the newer growth as well as some of the older growth that wasn't discolored a lot yet.

 

The other leaves that were quite discolored were not helped obviously.

 

At the end of the day, I am not too happy with the results of added cal/mag to the mix.

 

I am thinking it is time to flush which is what I am not too informed on.

 

I water/feed every other day. Since I fed yesterday, they are schedule to be watered tomorrow (Jan 4, 2011).

 

Is it OK for me to water tomorrow then water again on Thursday? I figured two waterings in a row should get the job done as far as flushing goes.

 

I just don't know how much water to run through each plant. They are all in 3 gallon pots.

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Well, they didn't look the greatest yesterday.

 

The plants needed to be fed yesterday so I added 1tsp of cal/mag per gallon of water along with the other FF nutes.

 

I just got home for lunch and went down there to peek on them.

 

I believe the cal/mag helped some on the newer growth as well as some of the older growth that wasn't discolored a lot yet.

 

The other leaves that were quite discolored were not helped obviously.

 

At the end of the day, I am not too happy with the results of added cal/mag to the mix.

 

I am thinking it is time to flush which is what I am not too informed on.

 

I water/feed every other day. Since I fed yesterday, they are schedule to be watered tomorrow (Jan 4, 2011).

 

Is it OK for me to water tomorrow then water again on Thursday? I figured two waterings in a row should get the job done as far as flushing goes.

 

I just don't know how much water to run through each plant. They are all in 3 gallon pots.

 

The general rule of thumb for flushing is to run three gallons through the plant for each gallon of medium, so for three gallon pots you would want to run nine gallons through the plants. That being said I just recently had a very similar problem occur with two WW plants I have in week 3 of flowering, and I've determined that the problem was definitely a pH issue. I've been using city water (letting it sit out for 24 hours) since I tested my tap and it was coming out a perfect 6.8 But I got lazy and was only pH testing when I was feeding so I didn't notice that my tap water had fluctuated and was coming out 7.5!

What I did was a light flush, running six gallons through the medium rather than nine and added cal/mag to the last gallon. I would recommend not watering two times in a row. The point of a flush is to negate any salt buildup and correct any pH issues of the soil by running the water through it. Soil is a powerful buffer and a normal watering will tend not to affect the soil pH all that much. What I would do is run at least six gallons through all the affected plants over the course of an hour or two, letting all the excess run out. Then do not water again until the medium dries, and it may be longer than two days! A good way to know when your plants need watering is to lift the pot when it is saturated. This is how heavy your plants are fully watered. Lift the pots again a few days later when the soil looks dry and you will notice a significant drop in weight. To be honest I never have a strict watering schedule, I use this method (and it will take a little time to get the hang of it but soon it will be second nature and you'll develop a kind of instinct for knowing when your plants need water). Every plant is different and will use water at a different rate, so sticking to a rigid schedule will not necessarily keep your plants at their optimal moisture level. Listen to your plants, they'll tell you when they need water.

This is how I usually flush. You're going to need a large container to collect all the runoff, so if one is handy a sink or bathtub is great. One is not especially handy for me so I take a large cooler, open it up and place a wire rack on top of it and set the the plant I'm flushing on top of the rack, so all the run-off falls out the bottom of the pot and into the cooler. But again if you have a bathtub or nice big sink nearby that would probably be alot easier! I also add a 1/2 dose of cal/mag to the final gallon I run through the plant, mostly as a preventive measure since soggy soil can interfere with uptake of Mg.

Anyway I realize I just wrote you a novel so here's the short version ;)

 

*Flush the plants with at least six gallons of water, letting all the excess drain off. (Obviously the water should be pH adjusted.)

*Add a small dose of Cal/Mag to the final gallon to prevent Mg deficiency.

*DO NOT water again until the soil is dry, the pots should be significantly lighter and the soil should be dry to the touch. Stick your finger a few inches into the soil. Do they feel moist? If so, it's not time yet.

*Then, resume normal watering/feeding schedule.

 

Hope this helps...

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Thank you very much for the info!

 

You bring up a good point about the tap water situation. We had a boil water alert Monday and Tuesday before Christmas.

 

They lifted it on the Wednesday before Christmas.

 

We fed the day the boil water alert was given, however, we used water that was sitting from 48 hours prior.

 

I made sure not to fill the water holding tank under the boil alert was lifted.

 

This brings up another thing...

 

Should the pH of the tap water be checked as it is coming out of the tap or after it has sat for 24 hours?

 

The last time I tested my tap water, it was coming out of the tap at 7.0

 

What is the lowest/highest the pH of the tap water should be BEFORE you add nutes to it?

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I only test the water when I am getting ready to give it to my plants, so that would be after letting it sit out. As far as I know the pH doesn't change over that 24-hours, it's mostly to evaporate any excess chlorine in the water. Although I've chlorine tested my tap water as well and it's very very low...better safe than sorry right?

 

As far as the pH BEFORE giving nutes...that's pretty much irrelevant. All that matters is the pH of what's going into your plants, and nutes tend to lower water pH. But after adding the nutes you should always test and make any necessary corrections. With nutes, tap water coming out at 7 may end up needing no correction at all. But check every time. Better safe than sorry :)

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