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whats your fav way to grow  

12 members have voted

  1. 1. how do you grow your meds?

    • soil/organic nutes
    • soil/chemical nutes
      0
    • DWC
    • flood and drain
    • areoponics
      0
    • nft nut film tec? not sure what this one is...
      0


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ok so here it is.... like i said in another post today is day 20 after i got my return slip from mailing my application in so the journey begins....

 

 

I have grown in soil in the past but am looking at other ways of doing things.i am thinking of trying hydro and was wondering on what is the best and easiest system to use. and also the best tools for the price i would need?

 

Now i am a caregiver to one patient...a family member that has a need for some meds that are of a pain relieving nature, any strain suggestions? and also some strains for the head too

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I think growing in soil or a soiless mix is the best thing for new growers to learn the ropes, there is alot of forgiveness in soil grows, in DWC one screwup and you can lose everything with a quickness.

I don't believe that. To each their own, but I teach beginners hydro. If taught right, (keep records) they have no problems. I grew in dirt for years and was amazed how easy DWC was.

Now it's DWC inside and dirt out.

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I think growing in soil or a soiless mix is the best thing for new growers to learn the ropes, there is alot of forgiveness in soil grows, in DWC one screwup and you can lose everything with a quickness.

 

Yes, so many people insist on treating the plant like a machine and their growroom like a factory, thinking that they can find all the answers in their stack of Chiltons on their way from 0-72 in 8 weeks.

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so i have my 5 gallon bucket ready to use when my clones root but what about the test equipment can i do it whith just a ph tester alone? and if not whats a good quality tester? do i need both a EC and a TDS tester? or can i go by the numbers on my fert bottle?

 

if you have the fundage, i would look to get one of these.... or something similar: http://www.4hydroponics.com/growroom/pH2.asp?ItemNo=oaktonMulti35

 

but, you can cheat with the lucas method if you need to. being a beginner to bubbles i wouldnt recommend it but it can be done.

 

when using r.o. water and the 8-16 lucas method, your ph and ppm's are perfect every time....... but if you dont have meters i would change/dump/refill every 2 weeks.

 

with the meters you can go much much longer using the addback formula in the lucas link above.

 

going by the numbers on your fert bottle may or may not work........ depending on your nutes. most nutrient/water mixes have to be ph adjusted after mixing and before introducing plants........... the lucas does not...............

 

but, the lucas method is not organic......... if thats something that you must have, you may want to look into the general organics line. if you do, i definitely recommend getting the tester pen.

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hears the thing tax time ill have at least 1000 to put into my room. but i need a lot of things, i have a huge list going i have looked int o a combo pen but its like 129$ plus i would want to get it with a backup electrode,(i have heard a lot about them going bad?).and all the calibration solutions. i have been into chem/nutes and plan on staying that way for now(its what i have).

 

thanks a lot bubblegrower u have been a big help bro and i appreciate it!!

 

i want to get into this bucket growing but im going slow maybe 2-4 plant system and soil for a few but i have been having trouble the last few cycles and i think its my water(very hard and its ph is like 8-8.5 out of the tap .

so i found a small R.O> system for like 100$ and i want it,cause who knows what my water ppm is its really hard. Is it worth it?

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hears the thing tax time ill have at least 1000 to put into my room. but i need a lot of things, i have a huge list going i have looked int o a combo pen but its like 129$ plus i would want to get it with a backup electrode,(i have heard a lot about them going bad?).and all the calibration solutions. i have been into chem/nutes and plan on staying that way for now(its what i have).

 

thanks a lot bubblegrower u have been a big help bro and i appreciate it!!

 

i want to get into this bucket growing but im going slow maybe 2-4 plant system and soil for a few but i have been having trouble the last few cycles and i think its my water(very hard and its ph is like 8-8.5 out of the tap .

so i found a small R.O> system for like 100$ and i want it,cause who knows what my water ppm is its really hard. Is it worth it?

 

yes an r.o. system is worth it 90% of the time. there is a cheap tds pen here though so you can test your tapwater if needed: http://www.4hydroponics.com/growroom/pH2.asp?ItemNo=suntds

another thing i wanted to ask these combo pens whats the diff between TDS and EC? do you need both testers? Is one beter to have than the other?

 

here's the low-down:

 

DECRYPTING EC/TDS METERS

 

there are 4 different types of meters that measure nutrient concentration, two are EC meters and two are TDS meters

 

of the 2 types of EC meters, (electrical conductivity), one displays with decimal places, the other without

 

for example

EC 2.0 and EC 2000 are the same

 

TDS meters come in 2 types, .5 and .7 conversion.

 

You seem to have a .5 conversion TDS meter

 

TDS meters take the electrical conductivity value that is measured internally by the meter (EC), but then multiplies the EC by a factor, either .5 or .7

 

so for example,

2000EC * .7= 1400ppm but also

2000EC * .5= 1000ppm

 

TDS is a strange beast and does not react logically, as you have found

 

for example 0-8-16 should read 1000ppm on .5 conversion meter, in RO water, but strangely, if you start with 250ppm water, and add the nutes, it wont necessarily come out to 1250, as you have noticed.

 

the reason I think this happens is that some of the TDS in the water gets neutralized by the nutes.

 

for example, much of the TDS in water is calcium, which is of very high pH. When nutes, of low pH are mixed in, some of the low and high values cancel each other out... this is sometimes called nute lockout and is the cause of some of the sediment in a res.

 

as far as the term TDS (total dissolved solids), in contrast to the term PPM (parts per million), they are the same thing stated in different words

 

here is an example of how the terms interact

 

An EC of 2000 corresponds to a TDS reading of 1400 PPM on a .7 conversion meter.

 

imho, .7 conversion is the primary hydroponic conversion factor, but many people own meters with .5 conversion, therefore, you MUST know your conversion, to understand my TDS numbers, which are all .7 values unless stated otherwise

 

in practical terms though, what you are doing is correct, and works fine, as you know

 

the gardner should mix nutes at the known recipe rate, then take a meter reading. WHATEVER that number is, regardless if its 1000, 1400, or any other number, THAT is the TDS of YOUR nutes in Your water, on Your meter.

 

As long as you dont change water or meters, keep using the baseline number you get as the target to go back to with nute additions

 

Im loving these questions! this is turning into a very complete archive of my beliefs

 

none of these ideas are original, Ive just spent a lot of time reading and learning from others

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