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Spider Mite Extermination


totung

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I could kick myself for this!!!!!!

 

I brought in a plant from an outside source and also brought in spider mites!

 

Never will I make that mistake EVER AGAIN.

 

Anyways. I found out that the plant I brought in was infested after 3 days of it sitting in the veg room.

 

I yanked it and destroyed it as soon as I saw it.

 

Well, 2 days after that, I see that 7 of the other plants in the veg room have a very early infestation.

 

I was doing a neem oil treatment on the plants once every week.

 

I want to get them good and make sure they are gone within a short amount of time.

 

I am willing to take the risk of using something that is "stronger" than neem oil.

 

Let me hear what my options are and what the pros and cons that come along with them.

 

Thanks in advance for the help.

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I could kick myself for this!!!!!!

 

I brought in a plant from an outside source and also brought in spider mites!

 

Never will I make that mistake EVER AGAIN.

 

Anyways. I found out that the plant I brought in was infested after 3 days of it sitting in the veg room.

 

I yanked it and destroyed it as soon as I saw it.

 

Well, 2 days after that, I see that 7 of the other plants in the veg room have a very early infestation.

 

I was doing a neem oil treatment on the plants once every week.

 

I want to get them good and make sure they are gone within a short amount of time.

 

I am willing to take the risk of using something that is "stronger" than neem oil.

 

Let me hear what my options are and what the pros and cons that come along with them.

 

Thanks in advance for the help.

 

 

 

Here are a few options.

 

 

Mite-rid ....you can find a distributor on this site (Tarzan, I think) - this might take the longest to get to you.

 

 

Safer Brand Insect Killing Soap (probably the safest)

Hot Shot 511035 No Pest Strip Insect (most are against this, but will 100% work)

Edited by 0ldschoolgame
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Guest knucklehead bob

Welcome to the school of hard knocks . Where an ounce of protection = a pound of cure , literally . Product called "No Spider Mites" , then , "Mite Rid" , then some thing else , then , never ever ever ever shirk your routine again . Don't know where you are but "No Spider Mites" is available @ Third Coast Garden Supply .

Edited by knucklehead bob
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this is how i battle spider mites before in a friends grow. He had a seal room so this was very easy to do. I bought a c02 tank from my grow filled up the bottle for 14 bucks and just released it all into his room, 10,000ppm should about do it. Came back an hour later they were all dead. But it doesn't kill the eggs. So you have to do it twice wait 2 days later do it again and then after that unload 40 bucks worth of lady bugs and its a done deal. 40 bucks equals to about 5-8 thousand bugs. That is the best way in my opinion without using any harmful pesticides. This only works with rooms that are sealed.

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I could kick myself for this!!!!!!

 

I brought in a plant from an outside source and also brought in spider mites!

 

Never will I make that mistake EVER AGAIN.

 

Anyways. I found out that the plant I brought in was infested after 3 days of it sitting in the veg room.

 

I yanked it and destroyed it as soon as I saw it.

 

Well, 2 days after that, I see that 7 of the other plants in the veg room have a very early infestation.

 

I was doing a neem oil treatment on the plants once every week.

 

I want to get them good and make sure they are gone within a short amount of time.

 

I am willing to take the risk of using something that is "stronger" than neem oil.

 

Let me hear what my options are and what the pros and cons that come along with them.

 

Thanks in advance for the help.

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Hey sorry to hear, this works for F in Roseville, he takes quart spray bottle and nearly fills with water drips in 1 drop of dawn dish detergent and shakes hard to mix well (the reason for some empty space left in the bottle) grabs plant in hand at bottom moving hand upwards squeezing stems and leaves against main stem, sprays (soaks) tops and underside of leaves and stems and repeats in 2 days. Kills egggs and adults and at end of a week no sign of eggs, white tents or mites. In warm weather he wants to do less work so takes the plants plants out under a tent in back yard and the mites become fast yummy food for their natural enemies which find them on the plants under the tent--from June through Sept in this Roseville backyard it takes 3 days for mites to be cannabalized.

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That's what I use. It's worked for me 100% every time I've used it.

 

A rep from that company came by and told us about it. It disintigrates the little gentlemen and their eggs. He has video of it through a microscope. It's badass stuff. Completely organic. 99.9999% water. You can use it up to and including day of harvest. You can drink this stuff it's so safe.

 

Try it. You won't be disappointed.

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Other choices:

 

I use Azamax, its both a foilar spray and feedant. You spray and feed it to the plant, and its neem oil.

 

I also used bombs, the spray cans that lock open. They contain Pyrithum and dangerous poly butyl ehter stuff - its combustable, flamable, and it can cover everything in a small to medium grow with a sheen of oily chemical. The key is, you need two kinds of bombs - one to attack the mites, the next a few days later to attack the eggs the mites laid as a last ditch defense. Both are greenhouse grade chemicals and can be used safely. Read the instructions. Turn off fans and do when lights will be out for 12 hours. Do not enter the room unprotected for at least 4 hours, or you will get sick.

 

The real key is to screen your plants and do not enter flower stage until you get rid of the mite problem. Smaller plants in veg are easier to soak and find mites - than 4 week flowering plants. Many chemicals can burn the white hair like pistils. Plants that are heavily infested - you might be better off taking a clone/cutting from it and fight the mites on the smaller clone - and surrender the larger plant to the grave..

 

-DN

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That's what I use. It's worked for me 100% every time I've used it.

 

A rep from that company came by and told us about it. It disintigrates the little gentlemen and their eggs. He has video of it through a microscope. It's badass stuff. Completely organic. 99.9999% water. You can use it up to and including day of harvest. You can drink this stuff it's so safe.

 

Try it. You won't be disappointed.

 

exactly what i wanted to hear because i bought some yesterday

 

going to spray it tonight for the first time when the lights go out

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Anyone using neem products like dyna grow neem, einstein oil, aza max, aza trol, mite rid, might want to check out my neem thread. Read the neem cake (meal) information in the link.

 

And be careful spraying soap or oils on flowering plants. It will eventually melt your trichomes. Trichomes are made up of oil so soaps, alcohol, and other oils can degrade the trics. I found this out after helping a friend make hash, he had a regular spraying routine using dawn dish soap. The trics were gooey and just stuck to the bubble bag screens, it was a mess, and i suppose it affects his potency as well. Just a head's up.

 

For me, first I look often. i use a eye clops, it is a child's toy and costs around $27. You hook it up to a TV and it magnifies, so you can spot in detail what you can not see with your eyes. Then i dip my clones in a neem wash, dirt and all. After that they get sprayed with neem every two weeks unless I see em. If I see adult mites, i spray with a pryethrum product to get live mites, (pryethrums work for a couple of sprays then mites become immune to it)then start neem spraying the next day for the eggs and newly hatched. Keep in mind neem does not kill them instantly, at least not well. It interrupts their life cycle, the eggs don't develop well and so on.

 

And don't forget using neem as a drench for systematic control. It takes a few days but can be effective. I bought some neem cake to use in my next soil mix, it has 6% neem, and is also an organic feed meal. But drenching the soil with neem works by the plant taking up neem into it's tissue, and the bugs don't like the taste won't eat it, then starve.

 

good luck.......shredder

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Another thing I've learned, and you may not be into it, is making a fermented plant extract using lavender flowers. You ferment the flowers using molasses and water. Cover the flower in water/molasses cover loosely so CO2 can escape, and let it sit untill the ph gets in the mid 3's, (a week or two) then strain off the now well rotted plant material, and dilute 1/20 for using. It smells great, it kills mites and is reported to kill mite eggs.

 

Just another option to think about......shredder

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I decided to do another neem treatment.

 

This time, though, I made sure to do the job right.

 

Every plant was removed from the room and sprayed down excessively!

 

After 24 hours, I went in to investigate.

 

All spider mites that used to be crawling around were dead.

 

The only things left were the eggs.

 

I will be doing another thorough investigation again today when I get home.

 

It will have been 48 hours since their last treatment when I get home from work today.

 

Their next thorough treatment will either be tonight or tomorrow after work, depending on the finding after work today.

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  • 11 months later...

That's what I use. It's worked for me 100% every time I've used it.

 

A rep from that company came by and told us about it. It disintigrates the little gentlemen and their eggs. He has video of it through a microscope. It's badass stuff. Completely organic. 99.9999% water. You can use it up to and including day of harvest. You can drink this stuff it's so safe.

 

Try it. You won't be disappointed.

THE ONLY THING THAT WILL HURT IS THE BANK ACCT> LOL OH, isn't that the frequency altered water??? What a RIP OFF!!! You cannot alter H2O, go ahead and google that and reccomd MightyWash with it's .0000whatever poison in it. Come on people do some homework!!

Edited by judge
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I've tried mighty wash before and as far as contact killer its the best... imho

 

If you spray it on mites and eggs it.will.kill them. Period. Plus, in.my.experience they never adapt. However, this issue it hitting all.of them. It will not.kill what it doesnt touch. So.... since you are human you will.likely miss a few and they multiply ....

 

So... there is an upside and downside.

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I picked up Organicide from Organic Labs about a month ago from Holly Hydro, but they also sell it at Home Depot.

 

$20 for a 16oz bottle of concentrate that mixes with water.

 

Main ingredients are sesame oil and fish oil.

 

I've been using it in veg and its working great, and you can't beat the price!

 

No Spider Mites works great, so does Azamax, but that $100 price point is a real deal breaker in my frugal opinion.

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  • 1 month later...

On veg plants only: Avid 2 times, floromite 2 times, then forbid 1 time. Re-apply the next batch every 2-5 days depending on temp and humidity. Avid and floromite are ovicides and will wipe out 99% of the eggs if you cover the entire plant top to bottom, both sides of the leaves. Forbid will keep them away from the plants for 3-4 weeks. Like digital nomad mentioned, best to get rid of the big moms and other large plants. Even with potent miticide/ovicide some eggs will always survive. All it takes is one lousy mite and you are screwed. These products are crazy difficult to get but good to keep around for a sudden infestation. You need a farm license or something to buy them last I knew...

 

If you use these kinds of products never spray them on flowers. Make sure you wear protective clothing and follow the directions to a T. I haven't have to use this method in over 2 years but I know it will hammer mites like nothing else i've tried. As far as the flower room, I never spray flowering plants. Make sure the plants are always good and clean before putting them there. If you have mites in the flower room keep it as cool as possible and keep the humidity as high as possible without causing mold or bud rot.

Edited by tricloud
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On veg plants only: Avid 2 times, floromite 2 times, then forbid 1 time. Re-apply the next batch every 2-5 days depending on temp and humidity. Avid and floromite are ovicides and will wipe out 99% of the eggs if you cover the entire plant top to bottom, both sides of the leaves. Forbid will keep them away from the plants for 3-4 weeks. Like digital nomad mentioned, best to get rid of the big moms and other large plants. Even with potent miticide/ovicide some eggs will always survive. All it takes is one lousy mite and you are screwed. These products are crazy difficult to get but good to keep around for a sudden infestation. You need a farm license or something to buy them last I knew...

 

If you use these kinds of products never spray them on flowers. Make sure you wear protective clothing and follow the directions to a T. I haven't have to use this method in over 2 years but I know it will hammer mites like nothing else i've tried. As far as the flower room, I never spray flowering plants. Make sure the plants are always good and clean before putting them there. If you have mites in the flower room keep it as cool as possible and keep the humidity as high as possible without causing mold or bud rot.

 

Tricloud that might be a little overboard. I would think using something like Mighty Wash then Forbid/Floramite and another time with Mighty Wash would work for most. Mighty Wash can even be used in flower if needed.

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