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I wanted to get your guys opinion on this matter, a lot of people are aware of the struggles of getting buds on the lower part of their plants to be substancial size instead of what most would call scrap. I am building a new 10x10 flower room and I want to try something different. I've seen it before in pictures, but I want to try it on a much smaller scale then the warehouse setting I generally see it in. Anyways to get to the point, I want to line my room in pure white, walls, cieling, floor, everything. Have no hoods on my lights, just sockets with 4 x 1000w lights, T5s on the wall maybe not sure if thats necessary. I know the heat is going to get high, but I figured what about investing the money that you'd spend on the hoods, get an A/C unit and run it splitted into 4 shooting onto the bulbs to prevent burn. The set up I was thinking was put the bulbs basically 1 foot under the top of the main shoots, the light will go up and get the main colas, as well as getting much more light to the middle of the plant where you can really pack on the weight. I've been running A/C through my inline sealed hoods in another flower room and its working well but I think I can get more off my plants with my lights closer to the flowers. Anyone on here running a room like this? Have you ran one with hoods as well? Any pros vs cons? I want to try it but if it's not going to work out I'm not going to waste my time.

 

Let me know what you guys think

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was also thinking about getting as elaborate as building a 9.5' x 9.5x PVC frame, attach the white poly for the "cieling" and raise it as I need to to prevent any loss of light upwards obviously with holes in it for the ducting for the ac and the sockets, I could also attack my Co2 line to the frame, get some more line and have a more even distribution of the Co2 in my flower room...

 

Always thinking late at night..... I hate insomnia :growl:

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HID lamps can easily run at 850* F inside the outer glass shield.

Often it can get 600* or higher on the outside of that glass.

 

When a functioning 1 KW HID breaks it explodes into thousands of superheated pieces of glass that can literally go right through you.

 

In my opinion running an HID lamp without glass on a hood is not wise, (see above); but many do so.

When you are talking about bare lamps hanging among the foilage I think you are asking for trouble.

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HID lamps can easily run at 850* F inside the outer glass shield.

Often it can get 600* or higher on the outside of that glass.

 

When a functioning 1 KW HID breaks it explodes into thousands of superheated pieces of glass that can literally go right through you.

 

In my opinion running an HID lamp without glass on a hood is not wise, (see above); but many do so.

When you are talking about bare lamps hanging among the foilage I think you are asking for trouble.

 

hmmm. Never thought of that.

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With aircooled reflectors, plants can grow inches away from it. With bare bulbs you'll have to follow the 18" to 24" rule to avoid burning, racing, overstress due to heat.

 

bulbs put out enough lumens, it sounds like you need to work more on bending, FIM, lollipoping to get more weight to those middle buds. Why not just do T5 on the walls and use aircooled reflectors - this will add side lighting you want, and avoid fighting heat with a 'new design'.

 

Also, when HID bulbs explode, they scatter mercury and sodium all over - if its enclosed in a aircooled reflector with air being sucked out - you can save your crop and yourself.

 

-DN

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Personally, I've tried it all and vertical bare bulb is by far the best setup that I have run as long as you have proper airflow and cooling. I hang bulbs about a foot from the plants and have had no issues. It requires significantly more floor space to do a multibulb setup but I will never purchase hoods again.

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I don't know why I even posted this thread now that I thought about cooltubes, I run 2 of them myself and never ever thought of adding the two together. To have them vertically, do you have your ducting running out on the floor or should you loop it back up to keep it off the floor??

 

To cooltubes it is!

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yeah you're supposed to use cooltubes... if not you should build some sort of screen around the bulb. Might I suggest if you are trying to have less fluff going with 2 400 watt bulbs and 2 250 watt t5 fixtures on both sides of the plants... Just don't grow quite as tall as a 1k

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I'm not really having much of a problem with fluff, I guess I should have been more clear. It just seems like instead of the bulbs being above everything why not put them in the middle an have NO fluff, and have ALL big beautiful buds. I'm gonna run with the cooltubes, just curious on the ducting if anyone has any tips on that

 

Thanks guys

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In my experience I had better luck with 2 600w bulbs hanging above and below each other then I did with 1 1kw bulb. The 600's put out significantly less heat and you get more vertical light with 2 bulbs space a few inches above each other. I actually just put all my lamps into sealed hoods so I could pull my temps down and start spraying co2 in the room and I'm really disappointed with how much less light there is in my room vs vertical. :\

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Does anyone have any experience with the Sunlight Supply Sun Tube? (http://www.sunlightsupply.com/p-12584-sun-tube-6-reflectors.aspx) I have 2 cooltubes right now in another flower room at my friends house, and I know I can take out the internal refelctor with those (like the picture on the first page someone posted, all glass no intertior or exterior reflectors just a glass tube.) can this also be done with the sunlight supply model, any sunlight supply insiders know about them coming out with an 8" model?

 

One more question, if I wanted to run 8" ducting and fans to increase airflow would a downsizer to 6" for the tubes make too much pressure or would it cool it more since its forcing more air through a smaller area? I have 8" cooltubes but after reading about hydrofarm and their anti MMJ policy, I'm anti Hydrofarm now.

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One more question, if I wanted to run 8" ducting and fans to increase airflow would a downsizer to 6" for the tubes make too much pressure or would it cool it more since its forcing more air through a smaller area? I have 8" cooltubes but after reading about hydrofarm and their anti MMJ policy, I'm anti Hydrofarm now.

 

 

I have a 8" fan running into a 6" Ducting. You can but it's a lot of force. You must Screw it down and only use flex lines for striate runs. I have had to do repairers to many times. I'm thinking of a different set up.

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Whats the cfm on your fan? Only going to one hood? I was thinking of getting a 8" somewhere around 730 CFM and split it between 2 lights with a/c ran into it as well and see what my temps were looking like and go from there. I'm buying my first house so it will all be new and I won't really know until I start rolling there

 

Thanks guys, appreciate it as always

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