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HID lamps can easily run at 850* F inside the outer glass shield.

Often it can get 600* or higher on the outside of that glass.

 

When a functioning 1 KW HID breaks it explodes into thousands of superheated pieces of glass that can literally go right through you.

 

In my opinion running an HID lamp without glass on a hood is not wise, (see above); but many do so.

When you are talking about bare lamps hanging among the foilage I think you are asking for trouble.

 

I get lax at times but a good reminder to set my lights for when I sleep ( smoke detectors outside bedroom and both in and outside room ) and try to tend the room when the lamps are off inspite of caution that it disturbs the cycle to enter I haven't found one 100 watt bulb and doing so makes a difference . Turing HID's off then back on requires at least a 20 minute cool down cycle inbetween for those not aware and that may disturb the plants significanllyand stress the bulbs . Always make sure your ballasts match up to your bulbs . In all my years though I have never known anyone to have a bulb explode though I have heard warnings like you mention ...better to just be safe then sorry and develop good grow room habits when possible .

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I have a 8" fan running into a 6" Ducting. You can but it's a lot of force. You must Screw it down and only use flex lines for striate runs. I have had to do repairers to many times. I'm thinking of a different set up.

 

 

Also I was thinking of running the 8" fan and ducting all the way until the Suntubes, put on a 8" to 6" adaptor on both sides of the tube and have 8" ducting as the exhaust. Do you have an adaptor right on the fan then running the 6" ducting? It seems like the inital force of the fan would loosen and move the adapotor where in my mind it seems that if it has to go through 6" suntube for 22" that it may go faster since its smaller with higher pressure and cool the lights better but I don't know if thats actually logical thinking or wishful thinking :unsure:

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was also thinking about getting as elaborate as building a 9.5' x 9.5x PVC frame, attach the white poly for the "cieling" and raise it as I need to to prevent any loss of light upwards obviously with holes in it for the ducting for the ac and the sockets, I could also attack my Co2 line to the frame, get some more line and have a more even distribution of the Co2 in my flower room...

 

Always thinking late at night..... I hate insomnia :growl:

 

 

 

Not exactly what you described, but the same idea

 

gallery_15108_531_25592.jpg

 

 

That's a sheet of plywood painted white on the light side. There are 3 pulleys per corner to reduce the weight, all ropes come to the corner for raising/lowering.

 

The cable you see at the bottom is for a white shower curtain to reduce the size of the grow area... I plan to replace that down the road with a sliding door wall with Mylar on the inside.

 

 

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I'm not really having much of a problem with fluff, I guess I should have been more clear. It just seems like instead of the bulbs being above everything why not put them in the middle an have NO fluff, and have ALL big beautiful buds. I'm gonna run with the cooltubes, just curious on the ducting if anyone has any tips on that

 

Thanks guys

I am about to set up my first flower room, and I have also concluded that vertical will work well for me. There is plenty of info out there on vertical growing.

 

Basically, get one of those fans that can be pointed straight up while sitting on the floor (vornado?). Put it on low right under your column of vertical bulb(s). This will blow the heat up and be sucked out by your exhaust fan vented out the ceiling. I plan on doing this first. I will be using 2 400W CMH vertical bulbs. One will hang, and the other is supported from the floor.

 

If I find that it gets too hot, then I will install cool tubes. In this case, I plan to draw air from my attic with a flex duct attached from the ceiling down the wall and over to the bottom cool tube. Then the top cool tube will vent with flex duct straight up to the fan and out the ceiling.

 

The intake in the ceiling will extend 4 feet into the ceiling. The exhaust will only extend a foot. Both will have some form of particle filter on them, like panty hose or a commercial solution.

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How high is that raised floor? Any quick tutorial on how you made that? I'm thinking since I need my room sealed and to take the heat from the tubes else where I'd love to do a floor like that about 10" off the actual floor, run the ducting just like yours and not worry about my Co2 being sucked out right away, then add a fresh air intake with a lower CFM to keep the air moving and add a splitter to a scrubber to keep the smell down.

 

Think I got it down, just need to figure out a few more details, glad I'm going to have a couple months to pop the beans and veg them up before I have to have my flower room ready to rock like yours is, it looks amazing man

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