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Oil From A Fresh Green Harvest.


peanutbutter

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PB, I like your process and would like to understand how it might compare on a production basis with a bho extraction.

For bho extraction I know that if I start with x grams of dried bud I get x grams of oil.

 

I really like that the process you are proposing here has the nice benefit that you can skip the drying and side step weight limits. However as I follow the thread I was not able to make a comparison between the two processes.

 

In your opening post you mention using the entire plant....

 

A cut plant was stuffed directly into a freezer.

Left overnight until it was completely frozen. When the material is cold enough, it will break like glass.

 

Washed with 99% iso as cold as the plant material. Short wash. Less than three minutes.

 

Cooked at 195F until there are no bubbles being produced:

 

 

Then further down, post 54 you mention some output values, but I can not tell if the material referred to was bud or just random plant material that included stems and fan leaves...

 

 

Strain number one.

 

Drying the material showed to be:

Start wt. 5.05 gm dried wt 1.84 gm 36.3% of starting weight.

Wet frozen material 18.71 gm * 36.3% = 6.79 gm if it had been allowed to dry.

 

Yield from dried = 0.25 gm. 0.25/1.84 = 13.6%

Yield from frozen = 1.0 gm. 1.0/6.79 = 14.7%

 

So the frozen fresh captured a little more than I'd expect to see from the dried out material.

 

Another question I have relates to heating the iso w/ the dissolved THC. Alot of time was devoted to discussing critical temp. to activate the THC. This all made sense, but now as the posts number greater than 100 I see the discussion shifting to evaporating the iso with a vacuum. This would make sense from a safety perspective, but what happened to the need for the heat activation step?

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And how much OILS did you lose? can you show me what your water charcoal removes? here is what my charcoal removes,

NORIT SA 4 is a steam activated carbon with a high adsorptive capacity suitable for applications in the food industry such as removal of persistent pigments from edible oils

 

high adsorptive capacity did you see that ?

 

mine is used for oils , yours is used for cleaning water not oil

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Just stating the obvious. A quarter teaspoon of carbon doesn't absorb much. That's all I'm saying.

 

Dead wrong.

 

I mentioned it before, assuming you understood.

 

The ability to absorb is a function of the particle size. The smaller the particle the more surface area is exposed.

 

A powder has vastly more exposed surface area. That is why I was saying to smash the chunk stuff with a hammer.

 

I'm trying to find a local place that might have some SA4 also some bleaching earth aka fuller earth aka fuller clay.

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Dead wrong.

 

I mentioned it before, assuming you understood.

 

The ability to absorb is a function of the particle size. The smaller the particle the more surface area is exposed.

 

A powder has vastly more exposed surface area. That is why I was saying to smash the chunk stuff with a hammer.

 

I'm trying to find a local place that might have some SA4 also some bleaching earth aka fuller earth aka fuller clay.

So, how much can a 1/4 teaspoon absorb? Any data on that? And what is the problem with using more? You guys sure are resistant to consider even slight suggestions from me. LOL Is this some sort of a competition thing? I'm just learning what works best. Maybe you guys could be a little more receptive and less defensive? How else can you improve?

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Your saying something that you have not used and how it works , that is not what we are here to do, If you want to remove fish poop buy some fish charcoal, if you want to work with cannabis get some laboratory charcoal, and dont say how it works when you haven't even used it,

 

Yeah .. I'm stubborn and I try to figure out how to get something done at minimal costs.

 

Cutting corners isn't worth it sometimes.

 

That funnel has a flat bottom, just like yours.

 

Filters should be pre-wet to stay flat against the bottom. A motorized pump would be very nice. But the hand pump would do for starting out.

 

It would be nice if the neck were a little longer on the funnel .. I agree.

 

You could put a short piece of hose on the neck, I guess. Great price, I figure.

 

Just need to find a good source for the carbon etc.

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So, how much can a 1/4 teaspoon absorb? Any data on that? And what is the problem with using more? You guys sure are resistant to consider even slight suggestions from me. LOL Is this some sort of a competition thing? I'm just learning what works best. Maybe you guys could be a little more receptive and less defensive? How else can you improve?

 

We're all learning here.

 

And we're the kind of folks that seem to insist on touching the pan to make sure it'll burn.

 

Cristie has the inside track on a lot of this.

 

What we gotta figure out is how this can be done easily by everyone. Quality medicine for everyone.

 

The less it takes for starting up, the better. More folks will work at making Michigan oil the very best in the world.

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We're all learning here.

 

And we're the kind of folks that seem to insist on touching the pan to make sure it'll burn.

 

Cristie has the inside track on a lot of this.

 

What we gotta figure out is how this can be done easily by everyone. Quality medicine for everyone.

 

The less it takes for starting up, the better. More folks will work at making Michigan oil the very best in the world.

Carbon filtering is a good OPTION. It's not necessary for every oil and every patient. Keep that in the forefront. You can make GREAT medical cannabis oil without carbon filtering. If you have impurities you need to get rid of then it'a an option. My patients are fine with the oil I make without carbon filtering. Carbon filtering is definitely not a must to have great medical cannabis oil.

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Yeah .. chunks don't do it ..

 

That means that the very finest of the dust goes through the filter.

 

I'm sorta spoiled with the centrifuge. That gets every bit of dust out.

 

Letting it stand overnight lets it settle. Even then, there is still the very smallest ones floating around.

 

We want a cheap, easy way to completely remove All solids.

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Carbon filtering is a good OPTION. It's not necessary for every oil and every patient. Keep that in the forefront. You can make GREAT medical cannabis oil without carbon filtering. If you have impurities you need to get rid of then it'a an option. My patients are fine with the oil I make without carbon filtering. Carbon filtering is definitely not a must to have great medical cannabis oil.

 

The difference between good and best.

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Just need to find a good source for the carbon etc.

 

here ya go http://www.buyactivatedcharcoal.com/tech_data/activated_charcoal_powder/norit_sa4

 

there are about 300 types of charcoal on that site,

Air/Vapor Filtration - Odor Control - Water/liquid Purification - Color Removal - Medical/Veterinary

 

remember that we are working with OILS

 

Thank you. Have you ever worked with this bleaching earth?

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the sa 4 is very heavy, it drops to the bottom very fast, and it clings to the filter very quick, i pump it threw my system about 4 times it takes about 4 minutes to filter 1 1/2 pints of ISO that is how much the funnel will hold.

All my charcoal went to the bottom too. It doesn't float around.

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PB, I like your process and would like to understand how it might compare on a production basis with a bho extraction.

For bho extraction I know that if I start with x grams of dried bud I get x grams of oil.

 

I really like that the process you are proposing here has the nice benefit that you can skip the drying and side step weight limits. However as I follow the thread I was not able to make a comparison between the two processes.

 

In your opening post you mention using the entire plant....

 

A cut plant was stuffed directly into a freezer.

Left overnight until it was completely frozen. When the material is cold enough, it will break like glass.

 

Washed with 99% iso as cold as the plant material. Short wash. Less than three minutes.

 

Cooked at 195F until there are no bubbles being produced:

 

This was from bud.

 

 

Then further down, post 54 you mention some output values, but I can not tell if the material referred to was bud or just random plant material that included stems and fan leaves...

 

 

Strain number one.

 

Drying the material showed to be:

Start wt. 5.05 gm dried wt 1.84 gm 36.3% of starting weight.

Wet frozen material 18.71 gm * 36.3% = 6.79 gm if it had been allowed to dry.

 

Yield from dried = 0.25 gm. 0.25/1.84 = 13.6%

Yield from frozen = 1.0 gm. 1.0/6.79 = 14.7%

 

So the frozen fresh captured a little more than I'd expect to see from the dried out material.

 

Another question I have relates to heating the iso w/ the dissolved THC. Alot of time was devoted to discussing critical temp. to activate the THC. This all made sense, but now as the posts number greater than 100 I see the discussion shifting to evaporating the iso with a vacuum. This would make sense from a safety perspective, but what happened to the need for the heat activation step?

 

The two different methods produced slightly different amounts of oil. Looks like the wet stuff has more pulled out than if it were dried first.

 

The vacuum we are discussing is about filtering, not cooking.

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