Feminized Beans

[ilynnboy]

Do I need to dilute 200ppm colloidal silver? Or can I spray it directly on the female branch I want to produce male flowers?

Thanks for any advice that may be given.

[dondjinn]

Just my opinion but, wouldn't you want to use Chemical Reversal as a last resort. Start by seeing how hard she is to hermie. For instance disrupting the photo- period. Or a crazy flux in ph. Head to the farm though, a couple guys have posted a how to, there.

Peace

[LITLJON]

Cool read on the subject.click

Do I need to dilute 200ppm colloidal silver? Or can I spray it directly on the female branch I want to produce male flowers?

Thanks for any advice that may be given.

[anonymousgrower?]

Cool read on the subject.click

 

That was a awesome read

[ilynnboy]

Just my opinion but, wouldn't you want to use Chemical Reversal as a last resort. Start by seeing how hard she is to hermie. For instance disrupting the photo- period. Or a crazy flux in ph. Head to the farm though, a couple guys have posted a how to, there.

Peace

The research that I've done says that this is the best way to do it.

Doing it with any other methods are supposed to lead to hermaphroditic genetic disposjtion in the resulting seedlings.

Silver is only supposed to block the female hormones. Leaving only male hormones to show sexual expressions.

[ilynnboy]

Cool read on the subject.click

Thanks for the link Littlejon.

Read it.

Going to use it full strenghth.

Hopefully in 9 weeks I will have a couple thousand female beans.

Hopefully ...... Cross your fingers for me.

[dondjinn]

It's just a way to select for the best female to reverse. Process...

Peace

[ilynnboy]

It's just a way to select for the best female to reverse. Process...

Peace

Thanks for the info.

Lots to ponder.

[Terpenoids]

I had nothing to do with this method.

I know the person who Did.

This is how they do it and found this method to surpass all others in comparison.

With that said here we go.

 

 

 

ok, here's how I do it.

 

First pick the mother plants that you want to target for gathering pollen. Take clones from them to be tested. Now stress test them (this is the biggest flower up in Soma's method) with light, water, nutrients, many other ways and keep track of what your doing. Now the plants that show hermie traits or the bananas that Soma talks about are discarded. In other words the plants that Soma keeps the pollen are age stressed plants. These are the exact plants I myself would discard for the porpoise he keeps them for. Doing this is not a natural thing for the plants to do and can not be done properly organically.

 

Now that the strong mothers have been found clones are taken from them and treated with STS treatments.

 

STS treatments. I got this from Rez

 

Preparation of STS:

 

First, a stock solution is made. It consists of two parts (A and B) that are initially mixed separately, then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form.

 

Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. (See material safety data sheet links below). Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling.

 

Part A: .5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water

Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water

 

The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.

 

The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution (B) while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).

 

This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.

 

Both the stock STS and the working solution should be refrigerated after use, as well as the powdered chemicals, to avoid activity loss.

 

The adjusted formula is as follows:

 

Part A: .7 gram silver nitrate stirred into 40ml distilled water

Part B: 2.6 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 160 ml distilled water

 

Next, slowly add the silver nitrate solution to the sodium thiosulfate solution while stirring. This combination is then added to 800 ml of distilled water to equal 1 liter. This is your final stock solution. It is diluted 1:9 with more distilled water to make your final working solution, which then gets sprayed on your target plant.

 

Either formula will work great, so don't sweat it too much. But do that second spraying at the end of week 2... seems to be the key for getting pollen from the more difficult strains.

 

 

Application:

 

The STS working solution is sprayed on select female plants until runoff. Do the spraying over newspaper in a separate area from the flower room. You probably won't smell anything, but ventilate anyway. You now have what I call a "F>M plant"; a female plant that will produce male flowers.

 

After the F>M plant dries move it into 12/12 immediately. This is usually done three to four weeks prior to the date that the target (to be pollinated) plants will be ready to pollinate. Response times may vary slightly depending upon the strain. More specific times can be determined by trial with your own individual strains. In my trials it took 26 days for the first pollen. 30-35 days seems optimum for planning purposes.

 

So, assuming that a target plant needs 3-4 weeks to produce fully mature seeds, a strain that takes 8 weeks to mature should be moved into flower at about the same time as the female>male plant. A target plant that finishes flowering in 6 weeks needs to be moved into flower later (10 days or so) so that it doesn't finish before the seeds can fully mature.

 

A seeded individual branch can be left to mature on a plant for a bit longer, while harvesting the other seedless buds if they finish first. Just leave enough leaves on for the plant for it to stay healthy.

 

Effects:

 

Within days I noticed a yellowing of the leaves on the F>M plants. This effect persisted for two weeks or so; after this they became green again, except for a few of the larger fans. The plants otherwise seemed healthy. No burning was observed. Growth stopped dead for the first ten days, and then resumed slowly. No stretch was ever seen. After two weeks the F>M plants were obviously forming male flower clusters. Not just a few clusters of balls, but complete male flower tops. One plant still formed some pistillate flowers, but overall it was predominantly male.

 

It is strange indeed to see an old girlfriend that you know like the back of your hand go through a sex change. I'll admit that things were awkward between us at first.

 

When the F>M plants look like they may soon open and release pollen, ( 3-1/2 to 4 weeks) move them from the main flower room into another unventilated room or closet with lighting on a 12/12 timer. Don't worry too much about watts per square foot; it will only be temporary.

 

When the pollen flies, move your target plants into the closet and pollinate.

 

A more controlled approach is to isolate the F>M plants in a third remote closet (no light is necessary in this one, as they are releasing pollen now and are nearly finished anyway). In this remote other closet the pollen is very carefully collected in a plastic produce bag or newspaper sleeve and then brought back to the lighted closet, where the target plants are now located. If this is done, be careful to not mix pollen types by letting the F>Ms dust each other. Avoid movement, or use yet another closet.

 

Take special care to not let pollen gather on the outside of this bag- a static charge is sometimes present. Drop small open clusters of blooms inside and then close the bag at the mouth and shake. Important: next, step outside and slowly release the excess air from the bag, collapsing it completely, so that pollen doesn't get released accidentally. Point downwind; don't let it get on your hands or clothes.

 

This collapsed pollinated bag is now very carefully slipped over only one branch and is then tied off tightly at the mouth around the branch stem with a twist tie or tape, sealing the pollen inside. Let the bag inflate slightly with air again before sealing it off, so the branch can breathe. This technique keeps the entire plant from seeding. Agitate the bag a bit after tying it off to distribute the pollen. Don't forget to label the branch so you know which seeds are which. Other branches on this same plant can be hit with different pollen sources.

 

If no lighted closet is available, the plant can be moved back into the main room, but- be very careful: pollen is sneaky. After 4-5 days, the bag is gently removed and the plant completes it's flowering cycle.

 

Yet another method has worked well for me. I position the target plants in a non-ventilated lighted closet, and then I collect pollen on a piece of mirror or glass. This is then carefully applied to the pistils of one pre-labeled branch by using a very fine watercolor paintbrush. Care is taken to not agitate the branch or the pollen. No sneezing. The plant needs to be in place first; moving it after pollination can shake pollen free and blow this technique.

 

Regardless of technique, at completion you will have feminized seeds. Let them dry for 2-4 weeks.

 

About the chemicals:

 

Silver nitrate is a white crystalline light-sensitive chemical that is commonly used in photography. It is also used in babies' eyes at birth to prevent blindness. It can cause mild skin irritation, and it stains brown. Avoid breathing. I didn't notice any smell or fumes, but ventilation is recommended. Be sure to wash the spray bottle well before you use it elsewhere; better yet: devote a bottle to STS use. A half gram is a surprisingly small amount; it would fit inside a gel capsule.

[dondjinn]

^^^ Nice post!!! ^^^

Peace

[mrd]

I want to point out that SODIUM THIOSULFATE. IS AN ABSOLUTE HORROR SHOW IF INGESTED. i REMEMBER ONCE LOOKING AT A BOTTLE OF IT and right on the side way before warnings were put on things and it siad DO NOT INGEST will cause stomach cancer. So be as carefull as if your life depended on this cause it does!!

 

Look up and see if there are any procedures that are right in handling the stuff.

 

I Do Mean To Alarm You!

 

Not against you doing the experiment but simply imploring you to use the utmost care.

 

By the way a number of people of interest surrounding the JFK assassination died of stomach cancer,Jack ruby the man who shot Lee Harvey Oswald died of it 9 months after going into custody. I have no proof just a nasty suspicion that whith a buck fifty will get you a cup of coffee at Star#ucks. (come you know i made you think that certain word when you saw the # in that word.

 

You are now under my control. You will send 2 lbs of your finest to Mrd. Remeber you are under my power and must do as I say.

 

MEANWHILE BE CAREFULL WITH THE SODIUM THIOSULFATE!

[ilynnboy]

I want to point out that SODIUM THIOSULFATE. IS AN ABSOLUTE HORROR SHOW IF INGESTED. i REMEMBER ONCE LOOKING AT A BOTTLE OF IT and right on the side way before warnings were put on things and it siad DO NOT INGEST will cause stomach cancer. So be as carefull as if your life depended on this cause it does!!

 

Look up and see if there are any procedures that are right in handling the stuff.

 

I Do Mean To Alarm You!

 

Not against you doing the experiment but simply imploring you to use the utmost care.

 

By the way a number of people of interest surrounding the JFK assassination died of stomach cancer,Jack ruby the man who shot Lee Harvey Oswald died of it 9 months after going into custody. I have no proof just a nasty suspicion that whith a buck fifty will get you a cup of coffee at Star#ucks. (come you know i made you think that certain word when you saw the # in that word.

 

You are now under my control. You will send 2 lbs of your finest to Mrd. Remeber you are under my power and must do as I say.

 

MEANWHILE BE CAREFULL WITH THE SODIUM THIOSULFATE!

Thanks for the heads up Mrd.

Going with the colloidal silver. It is only mildly toxic and not carcinogenic.

[ilynnboy]

I had nothing to do with this method.

I know the person who Did.

This is how they do it and found this method to surpass all others in comparison.

With that said here we go.

 

 

 

ok, here's how I do it.

 

First pick the mother plants that you want to target for gathering pollen. Take clones from them to be tested. Now stress test them (this is the biggest flower up in Soma's method) with light, water, nutrients, many other ways and keep track of what your doing. Now the plants that show hermie traits or the bananas that Soma talks about are discarded. In other words the plants that Soma keeps the pollen are age stressed plants. These are the exact plants I myself would discard for the porpoise he keeps them for. Doing this is not a natural thing for the plants to do and can not be done properly organically.

 

Now that the strong mothers have been found clones are taken from them and treated with STS treatments.

 

STS treatments. I got this from Rez

 

Preparation of STS:

 

First, a stock solution is made. It consists of two parts (A and B) that are initially mixed separately, then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form.

 

Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. (See material safety data sheet links below). Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling.

 

Part A: .5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water

Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water

 

The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.

 

The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution (B) while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).

 

This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.

 

Both the stock STS and the working solution should be refrigerated after use, as well as the powdered chemicals, to avoid activity loss.

 

The adjusted formula is as follows:

 

Part A: .7 gram silver nitrate stirred into 40ml distilled water

Part B: 2.6 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 160 ml distilled water

 

Next, slowly add the silver nitrate solution to the sodium thiosulfate solution while stirring. This combination is then added to 800 ml of distilled water to equal 1 liter. This is your final stock solution. It is diluted 1:9 with more distilled water to make your final working solution, which then gets sprayed on your target plant.

 

Either formula will work great, so don't sweat it too much. But do that second spraying at the end of week 2... seems to be the key for getting pollen from the more difficult strains.

 

 

Application:

 

The STS working solution is sprayed on select female plants until runoff. Do the spraying over newspaper in a separate area from the flower room. You probably won't smell anything, but ventilate anyway. You now have what I call a "F>M plant"; a female plant that will produce male flowers.

 

After the F>M plant dries move it into 12/12 immediately. This is usually done three to four weeks prior to the date that the target (to be pollinated) plants will be ready to pollinate. Response times may vary slightly depending upon the strain. More specific times can be determined by trial with your own individual strains. In my trials it took 26 days for the first pollen. 30-35 days seems optimum for planning purposes.

 

So, assuming that a target plant needs 3-4 weeks to produce fully mature seeds, a strain that takes 8 weeks to mature should be moved into flower at about the same time as the female>male plant. A target plant that finishes flowering in 6 weeks needs to be moved into flower later (10 days or so) so that it doesn't finish before the seeds can fully mature.

 

A seeded individual branch can be left to mature on a plant for a bit longer, while harvesting the other seedless buds if they finish first. Just leave enough leaves on for the plant for it to stay healthy.

 

Effects:

 

Within days I noticed a yellowing of the leaves on the F>M plants. This effect persisted for two weeks or so; after this they became green again, except for a few of the larger fans. The plants otherwise seemed healthy. No burning was observed. Growth stopped dead for the first ten days, and then resumed slowly. No stretch was ever seen. After two weeks the F>M plants were obviously forming male flower clusters. Not just a few clusters of balls, but complete male flower tops. One plant still formed some pistillate flowers, but overall it was predominantly male.

 

It is strange indeed to see an old girlfriend that you know like the back of your hand go through a sex change. I'll admit that things were awkward between us at first.

 

When the F>M plants look like they may soon open and release pollen, ( 3-1/2 to 4 weeks) move them from the main flower room into another unventilated room or closet with lighting on a 12/12 timer. Don't worry too much about watts per square foot; it will only be temporary.

 

When the pollen flies, move your target plants into the closet and pollinate.

 

A more controlled approach is to isolate the F>M plants in a third remote closet (no light is necessary in this one, as they are releasing pollen now and are nearly finished anyway). In this remote other closet the pollen is very carefully collected in a plastic produce bag or newspaper sleeve and then brought back to the lighted closet, where the target plants are now located. If this is done, be careful to not mix pollen types by letting the F>Ms dust each other. Avoid movement, or use yet another closet.

 

Take special care to not let pollen gather on the outside of this bag- a static charge is sometimes present. Drop small open clusters of blooms inside and then close the bag at the mouth and shake. Important: next, step outside and slowly release the excess air from the bag, collapsing it completely, so that pollen doesn't get released accidentally. Point downwind; don't let it get on your hands or clothes.

 

This collapsed pollinated bag is now very carefully slipped over only one branch and is then tied off tightly at the mouth around the branch stem with a twist tie or tape, sealing the pollen inside. Let the bag inflate slightly with air again before sealing it off, so the branch can breathe. This technique keeps the entire plant from seeding. Agitate the bag a bit after tying it off to distribute the pollen. Don't forget to label the branch so you know which seeds are which. Other branches on this same plant can be hit with different pollen sources.

 

If no lighted closet is available, the plant can be moved back into the main room, but- be very careful: pollen is sneaky. After 4-5 days, the bag is gently removed and the plant completes it's flowering cycle.

 

Yet another method has worked well for me. I position the target plants in a non-ventilated lighted closet, and then I collect pollen on a piece of mirror or glass. This is then carefully applied to the pistils of one pre-labeled branch by using a very fine watercolor paintbrush. Care is taken to not agitate the branch or the pollen. No sneezing. The plant needs to be in place first; moving it after pollination can shake pollen free and blow this technique.

 

Regardless of technique, at completion you will have feminized seeds. Let them dry for 2-4 weeks.

 

About the chemicals:

 

Silver nitrate is a white crystalline light-sensitive chemical that is commonly used in photography. It is also used in babies' eyes at birth to prevent blindness. It can cause mild skin irritation, and it stains brown. Avoid breathing. I didn't notice any smell or fumes, but ventilation is recommended. Be sure to wash the spray bottle well before you use it elsewhere; better yet: devote a bottle to STS use. A half gram is a surprisingly small amount; it would fit inside a gel capsule.

Wow what a post. That would have taken me 2 hours on my phone.lol

thanks for the information Terpenoids.

If the colloidal silver doesn't work, I'll be using that recipe for sure.

Going to try the colloidal first, due to its relative non-toxicity.

[Terpenoids]

Wow what a post. That would have taken me 2 hours on my phone.lol

thanks for the information Terpenoids.

If the colloidal silver doesn't work, I'll be using that recipe for sure.

Going to try the colloidal first, due to its relative non-toxicity.

 

It's your world brother,I'm just living in it.

Glad you liked the post.

There's more then one way to skin a cat.

Good Luck.

[ilynnboy]

It's your world brother,I'm just living in it.

Glad you liked the post.

There's more then one way to skin a cat.

Good Luck.

Thanks Terpenoids.

That info is much appreciated,it truly is.

Where can those supplies be purchased?

I thought I read you can gat them at a photo supply?

[Terpenoids]

First of all any method that is done by stressing the plant will produce offspring that will be suseptable to hermies with any slight stress that is applied.

Just to clarify,Are you stating that any method for gathering pollen forced by stress or are you going in another direction?????