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Budz-4-U
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I went from a 12' X 6' basement flower room, with twin 600's, to my new basement flower room, 12' X 13', with three 600's, and one 1,000. Seven foot ceiling.

 

Basically, I doubled the room size, and doubled my lights. What remained the same was my 440cfm Ecoplus Supreme 6" inline fan, now hooked to the four glass sealed hoods, with matching 6" ducts on the hoods, and guessing 30' of 6" flex hose.

 

Have an oil filled radiator for heat and window air conditioner, but try not to use these two items any more than needed, using enough power already.

 

During the 12 "off" hours, not much of a problem. During the 12 "on" hours, the temp goes up to 81F. Not good, considering this is January.

 

I think I need to pull more air into the room, using a separate inline fan. Or, maybe put another 440 cfm on the existing circuit, one to push the air, one to pull it. Thinking with four hoods, four lights, and 30' of hose, I have too much resistance on the fan, and lots of heat being generated. Thinking if the air was going outside faster, more cold air from the other side of the non heated end of the basement would then get pulled into the room, float through the room, cooling it, then go flying faster through my hoods, and out.

 

Trying to keep the temp closer to 75 F., 24/7, with the least amount of additional power consumption. Thanks !!

 

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Being that every ones grow environment is different and each has its own set of circumstances, I don't see relaying what someone else uses in "their" grow room as being good advice. It sounds kind of d-bag-ish and I don't mean it that way. What I mean is we should focus more on the OP's circumstances vs. what we use or do. Focusing on what his environment is, both in the room, exterior rooms and exterior home.

 

Budz, I think you are looking in the right direction as far as creating more airflow. Having any type of stagnant air will allow for rising temps in your grow. Where are you currently pulling the air from? I noticed you said "maybe" pulling from the non-heated area would help, so are you currently pulling in air from a heated section?

 

Also, the air you are pulling in, are you filtering it in anyway?

 

I will toss my suggestions in here.. I personally use a minimum of two exhaust fans (number going up with room/grow size). Usually 500cfm minimum for both for a standard 10x10 room. One exhaust is at the ceiling level exiting the room, and the other would be more mid/floor level (depending on setup). Both having carbon filters obviously. By adding them at different height levels, I believe it prevents stagnant air by allowing even flow in and out of the room. Keep in mind these are not going through hoods at all as I use vertical.

Edited by DailyToker
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i run around 63 night, up to 80s day. though i do like to keep around 77ish. ideally id stay in a 12* flux from off/on, but atm, 15ish give or take is ok imo. im in soil, 2 400 cmh in a 4 x 12 room. and by all means not an expert.

 

i think once over 85/87 is when your on the getting to warms stage. 55ish being the low end of the scale. just my 2cents.

 

 

but yes, you should have 1 fan per 2 lights. it helps with the heat removal and will stress your single fan far less, resulting in it making less heat and lasting longer.

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I went from a 12' X 6' basement flower room, with twin 600's, to my new basement flower room, 12' X 13', with three 600's, and one 1,000. Seven foot ceiling.

 

Basically, I doubled the room size, and doubled my lights. What remained the same was my 440cfm Ecoplus Supreme 6" inline fan, now hooked to the four glass sealed hoods, with matching 6" ducts on the hoods, and guessing 30' of 6" flex hose.

 

Have an oil filled radiator for heat and window air conditioner, but try not to use these two items any more than needed, using enough power already.

 

During the 12 "off" hours, not much of a problem. During the 12 "on" hours, the temp goes up to 81F. Not good, considering this is January.

 

I think I need to pull more air into the room, using a separate inline fan. Or, maybe put another 440 cfm on the existing circuit, one to push the air, one to pull it. Thinking with four hoods, four lights, and 30' of hose, I have too much resistance on the fan, and lots of heat being generated. Thinking if the air was going outside faster, more cold air from the other side of the non heated end of the basement would then get pulled into the room, float through the room, cooling it, then go flying faster through my hoods, and out.

 

Trying to keep the temp closer to 75 F., 24/7, with the least amount of additional power consumption. Thanks !!

 

 

Easy formula for air cooling lights is for every 1000watts of hids, you want 250cfm of air flow and more is better. So you went from 1200 watts with 400cfms to 2800watts with the same cfms. Up the CFMS and the heat issue will go down some. Also keep in mind the more bends your ducting has, and the longer the overall length, the more your fans CFMs are reduced.

 

So the formula is 1 divided by 4 or in your room 2800/4=700CFM total fan flow, best to split this up between 2 6" inline fans.

 

As others have said, adding exhaust fans and or more intakes can help, as well as the temp of the air you are drawing in. Exhausts should always be near the ceiling to pull out hot air. Intakes on the bottom to draw in cooler air through negative pressure. There is no need for an intake fan. For sizing an exhaust fan use the formula to generate a cubic area of your room. So LXWXH = CU Area, then look at your room and try and estimate how much area is being "displaced" by equipment (Lights, pots, dehumid, fan, etc) and the plants them selves. Generally my rooms are 50% displaced by equipment and plants, but yours may vary. So now we take that displacement of say 50% and divide the cubic area by 2 (or multiply by .5). This gives you the cubic area of your air, match this to an exhaust fan size. Most books say to replace air every 5-10 minutes, for simplicity's sake, I go for all air exchanged every minute.

 

So, all that simplified down is LengthxWidthxHeightx.percentage displaced= CFM Fan Size

 

When applied to your room you get 12'x13'x7' = 1092 x .5 (for 50%) = 546CFM total fan flow for an exhaust, which would be best served by one 8inch fan, or if you are going to filter the air out through a carbon filter first, I would go with a 10" in line fan.

 

The scrubber will impede airflow depending on the model.

 

This can be applied to most rooms.

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is the hood ventilation a closed system (not removing air from your grow room)? if so, you need to have a separate exhaust system for the air in the room, which doesn't sound like you do. if you have a fan removing air, you want your intake opening (passive) to be 3x larger than the exhaust opening. if have an active intake, you still want it to be smaller/less cfm than your exhaust (helps keep a negative pressure in your room to help keep the smell contained).

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Im running four 1000s in a 10X18 room. I have 750cfm and a 425cfm inlines pulling air out. I have a 6 inch duct that allows fresh air in the room next to it. Light on temp is 81. Lights off is 74. Humidity is at 35%. No mites. No mildew. No problem. All is well. Medcnman.

 

You must have a huge electric bill . Would you be willing to share how much you believe it runs per month . I just added another lamp to my set up to see if it would improve yeilds in my flower room . My guestimate is I am paying $20 per month for each 400 watt lamp I run . I do a 18 / 6 veg and 12/12 flower . In summer I know my house air runs more due to the heat but I am glad to have it in winter .

 

That was good information on the size of intake and exaughst openings . I have a furnace vent and cold air return in my room .

Edited by Croppled1
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You must have a huge electric bill . Would you be willing to share how much you believe it runs per month . I just added another lamp to my set up to see if it would improve yeilds in my flower room . My guestimate is I am paying $20 per month for each 400 watt lamp I run . I do a 18 / 6 veg and 12/12 flower . In summer I know my house air runs more due to the heat but I am glad to have it in winter .

My electric averages $500 a month. I hit $835 last July!! My 1000s bumped my bill up approxamately $63 each per month. Plus I have two 430 watt T-5 and a 600watt in my veg area. Total wattage is 5460 watts just in lights. I also have a 750 inline and a 425 inline. I also have 3 humidifiers and 2 Bad A$$ Fans circulating air. In summer, i have a 12,500 btu A/C unit running 12 hours per day. All my ballasts run thru a Helios 3 controller.Its not a cheap room by any means. But its fun! And the reaction from the patients when they receive their meds every month for free makes it all worth it! Medcnman.

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I draw winter air in the cold months and room air during the hot months utilizing a portable ac .

 

71 degrees currently running 2 1000s nighttime temps get down to 54 degrees I'm probably going to add a inline duct fat to draw heat off the side of my furnace .

 

 

Thats too cold bro. Too much of a spread from hot to cold...71 to 54....brrrr....

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You must have a huge electric bill . Would you be willing to share how much you believe it runs per month . I just added another lamp to my set up to see if it would improve yeilds in my flower room . My guestimate is I am paying $20 per month for each 400 watt lamp I run . I do a 18 / 6 veg and 12/12 flower . In summer I know my house air runs more due to the heat but I am glad to have it in winter .

 

That was good information on the size of intake and exaughst openings . I have a furnace vent and cold air return in my room .

 

OK here it is. Shhhh this is top secret, secret know what I mean lol. Read this small article. Tells you how to save a bundle in veg. I have been using the Delp cycle or the gas lantern theory for well over a year now with great results. Out performs and healthier than anything vegging on 18-24 hrs photo period. No joke. Medcnman this would help you a bundle and save a bundle lol.

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OK here it is. Shhhh this is top secret, secret know what I mean lol. Read this small article. Tells you how to save a bundle in veg. I have been using the Delp cycle or the gas lantern theory for well over a year now with great results. Out performs and healthier than anything vegging on 18-24 hrs photo period. No joke. Medcnman this would help you a bundle and save a bundle lol.

 

When you have terrible hermie issues, don't come crying back here.

 

12 on 5.5 off 1 on 5.5 off is a fast track to hermies.

 

If you are trying to save energy consider your hids on for 12, and then a small 40watt CFL centrally hung for 12 hours. No hermies, less electricity.

 

HOWEVER, its been proven time, and time again, the more light the plant receives, the faster and stronger it grows. Plants under 24 hours of light, will grow more. Simple solid science. Look it up, google has a great scholarly search. This holds especially true in flowering.

 

Before you jump down my throat defending this screaming you don't have hermies, you just haven't identified them yet. Common grower mistake.

Edited by CaffeineForAll
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It has been going on for over a year now. No hermies at all. Never. I cut from cuts and run the Delp. I am not joking, NO issues. NO hermaphrodites! I have others using this method with zero issues also. So its been over a year now I have been using this photo-period as has 6 other gardens with zero issues except we get to keep more of our money lol. Do a side by side and find out for yourself. When I flower I go straight to 11 hrs. and after every 2wks of flower i knock another half hour off. Simulate the loss of daylight in the natural fall cycle.

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I ended up using a 20" box fan to push cold air, from the unheated half of the basement, 54F day and night, into the grow room. Mounted two furnace type vents in the wall. On the inside of the room, I put a box over the vents, and made the box long enough to keep light from passing in either direction. Painted the inside of the box flat black.

 

As soon as I plugged the fan in, I could see the digital thermometer counting backwards. 80.3 80.2 80.1 79.9 etc.

 

Thinking about hooking thermostats to the heater, A/C, and this new box fan. Set the low temp to 70F, and the high temp. to 80F. So I don't have to go around multiple times per day, and adjust stuff.

 

At least, with your help, I confirmed the one 440cfm fan was needing a little help, and now am back in the 70's, and that was the goal. Leaving the door cracked open is now a thing of the past.

 

Less than $300 a month ? Not really sure, as I hooked the new stuff up between meter readings. So, it went up, not sure how much for a full month. I am sure Consumers will let me know. LOL

 

Thanks !!

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It has been going on for over a year now. No hermies at all. Never. I cut from cuts and run the Delp. I am not joking, NO issues. NO hermaphrodites! I have others using this method with zero issues also. So its been over a year now I have been using this photo-period as has 6 other gardens with zero issues except we get to keep more of our money lol. Do a side by side and find out for yourself. When I flower I go straight to 11 hrs. and after every 2wks of flower i knock another half hour off. Simulate the loss of daylight in the natural fall cycle.

 

You do know that most outdoor plants don't get anywhere near 13 hours of darkness until well into November. Sept 20-21st is the official first day of 12/12 on the 45th parallel. Here is the data for the Mazaar-I-Sharif area of Pakistan, a good "Indica" location. http://aa.usno.navy.mil/cgi-bin/aa_rstablew.pl Yea Wonder why you don't see 9 hours of light in Oct-Nov. Hmmm.

 

I have run it side by side, its stressful, makes for spindly growth, and less dense leaf mass. Plants will grow faster and stronger under 24 hours of light, but with no dark period it is stressful, and again likely to cause hermies. Also it delays the onset of flowering by a few days when you go from 24hr to 12/12, even with a 24-72 total dark force flower. 18/6 gives you the best overall growth when weighed against stress. I have seen the 12/1 style done in cali on outdoor gardens, but we can all agree outdoor gardens can tolerate much more stress than indoor gardens. Even these would still have hermie issues late into flowering.

 

Like I said, and no offense intended, but you just aren't recognizing hermies. They can be dreadfully hard to spot. Took me 5 years before I realized what a true late hermie looks like smashed between calyxes. Even now they sometimes go overlooked.

 

As for "Delp" that article is so far off base its maddening. Delp didn't patent ice water extraction. Secondly he didn't invent feminized seed either. Skunkman, and or Soma get the credit for that usually, however people have been selfing plants for eons soooo...

 

Based on that alone you have to wonder how valid the science really is. Also this info is hosted on some obscure Northern Ireland cannabis growing web site. I mean cmon really? Call me the grow police if you wish, but information like this presented as fact is terribly harmful to caregivers and patients.

 

Also as to testing this, again, I will not. I am not making the claim, I do not bear the burden of proof. Even you shouldn't test it because you are biased. To be good science it should be undertaken by other members on this board as unbiased as possible.

 

I invite anyone to try the 12 hour hid 12 hour cfl cycle (or less depending on your needs for cooling and/or energy savings). I used this method with a couple of flip boxes, really efficient way to go, and easy to switch to flowering, just unplug the CFL.

Edited by CaffeineForAll
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