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Do Spider Mites Need Plant Mater To Live?


Hydraulic Jack

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Well ive been made offers of cure all pesticides to wipe every living thing on the face of the planet but the reality is this is 7 feet from where i currently sit so its dangerous to fight bugs in the same air that you breathe 24/7 im currently switching over to captain jacks dead bug in veg ive read good reviews out of california hoping this will assist me in wiping them out forever.

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captain jacks dead bug brew, it works but i still hunted them down and smashed them and their eggs,,

 

that stuff is made from old rum

not

Spinosyn A and Spinosyn D are the active ingredients, no rum.

They were discovered in an old rum factory, in a white oak barrel I believe.

Works great.I got rid of soil born mites with 3 aplications 4 days apart.

I still broke down the room and repainted with water based kilz to be sure, it has a fungicide in it and inhibits mold growth.

Good luck.

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Spinosyn A and Spinosyn D are the active ingredients, no rum.

They were discovered in an old rum factory, in a white oak barrel I believe.

Works great.I got rid of soil born mites with 3 aplications 4 days apart.

I still broke down the room and repainted with water based kilz to be sure, it has a fungicide in it and inhibits mold growth.

Good luck.

 

Ya see thats what ive always thought where my infestation came from i truly believe its from the fox farm ocean forest medium i use in my garden .

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You may not like it, but I'll say it a final time, pyrethrum bug bombs.

 

also, as needed, spot spray w iso alcohol works very well at neutralizing small groups of bugs. Not sure about on mites, but spinosad drench will toast thrips in one second flat.

 

serious man, you need to bug bomb. just pack up overnight, go to a friends house. then air the place out after... no biggie. pyrethrum isn't all that toxic, it's used in the food Industry. I doubt that the mites came from the soil, they just multiply like crazy!! band-aids won't cut it, it's all-out war when it comes to mites.

 

Ive left infected plants in smaller room w bomb and it burned a few leaves but eradicated them buggers. tellin ya, I have a ton of experience in this department. good luck w whatever you choose. zero tolerance, ZERO.

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If you create conditions that are not favorable for mites, then the mite eggs that are hidden in all the secret little spots will just hang out and wait. When warmer, drier, sunnier times come back, the mites will come back again. I think you need to coax the little buggers to the battle. Give 'em plants to hang out on so they come to you. Then blast them.

In order for your battle to be 100% effective, you need a product that kills eggs as well as all live mites. In addition, the product needs to be a translaminar systemic. Systemic means that the plant actually absorbs the material same as it would a foliar feeding. Translaminar is the key. This means that the material will be present in the fluid contained in the leaf.

Spider mites don’t feed like most leaf miners that would die from a typical systemic. This is why the pesticide you use must be translaminar in order for it to be 100% effective. This ensures that the pesticide will be put right into the mite’s food source.

 

My advice would be as follows:

 

1. Do your best to ride out the mites in the flower room

2. Get and use a pesticide as described above. Apply to plants in veg Good example is Fluoramite.

3. After two applications, start to cut off the oldest leaves first.

4. Let the plants veg for another 6-8 weeks, stripping leaves along the way – the general idea is to have all of the leaves that were present at the time of the pesticide application removed by the time you start flowering

 

Between removing all of the original leaves and the degradation time of the pesticide of about 2 months, if you do this right, you will have no residual pesticides in your meds. I have personally done this and confirmed the results through lab analysis.

 

Moving forward, the best way by far to battle mites, in my humble opinion, is to use water. How? Grow DWC with bare roots – no medium at all. Then you can take your plants and soak them completely under water as often as you wish. Imagine if you will, being able to flip your plant upside down and hang the entire plant in a full trash can of water? I’ve done this for hours at a time. Then hold the plant upside down and hose it off. What would live through that?

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Ya see thats what ive always thought where my infestation came from i truly believe its from the fox farm ocean forest medium i use in my garden .

Probably did come from ff dirt, I quit using that 3 years ago because it came with fungus gnats. I think once the supply chain gets infected with any bug it would be really hard and costly to eliminate them. That is if the company even tries, there is more money being made on insecticide these days than dirt according to 2 different stores that I frequent.

Now roots organic comes with fungus gnats as well, still figuring out what to do.

Right now I am switching to all smart pots to make it easier to control the gnats, I've read they exist only in the top 2" to 3" of dirt.

Smart pots have no holes on the bottom for the little b@stards to hide in, so soaking the top 2 to 3" with captain jacks has a better chance of working, hopefully.

 

 

Dirt for small clone gets cooked in an oven then has worm castings added to get things going again.

Larger plants get watered in with azamax when transplanted and soaked with jacks brew a week later.

I also built a quarantine room.

All new genetics , dirt or anything that can harbor pests goes in there for about a week and is inspected many times.

Pain in the @ss for sure, but not sure what else to do.

Might try hydroponics again, but I really like dirt.

 

I have heard the vasoline thing works but I have never had mites above the soil line.

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Yes my friend at the grow store has been coaxing me into feeding the azamax to my plants she said that it doesnt do much to the adults but it sterilizes the hatchlings so they become the last generation from that infestation and use a foiler spray of the mixture to get the adults .

 

I love the taste of cannabis from dirt nothing like it in the world for me but i have been seriously thinking of going to the buckets and running the lucas method and grow some bushes.

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Back when I still ran a rare plant nursery, a simple treatment of Ivory dish soap and water worked very well for both spider mite and aphids on all the nursery stock. Just spray the hot spots (where you see an attack beginning) in the evening to avoid foliage burn; aand if worried about residue, mist off the following evening. Simple, inexpensive, and non-toxic.

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Spinosyn A and Spinosyn D are the active ingredients, no rum.

They were discovered in an old rum factory, in a white oak barrel I believe.

Works great.I got rid of soil born mites with 3 aplications 4 days apart.

I still broke down the room and repainted with water based kilz to be sure, it has a fungicide in it and inhibits mold growth.

Good luck.

Why latex kilz? how come you dont use the original oil based kilz, Im gonna paint my block walls and cemento floor with a 2 part opoxy, after I bleach the hell out of every thing, than im gonna kilz it, than im gonna epoxy the floor, put up the shiny walls, ceiling, tape all seems with the shiny heater duct tape, and hope its gone, My c.g uses something you cant spray directly on the plant, but you put it all over the floors and walls, he says to put it in the door ways on the floor and when you walk thru the door your bringing the mite killer in with ya! he has no mites at this time, he says every one gets em here and there, you have to take pre action to make sure you dont get them,

 

Hey christy how the hell do you find them all over, man I have a hard enough time finding them with my magnifyers, bunny muffin I need xannys to keep from shaking to look thru that lil maginfyer lol!

 

Im interested in knowing why latex killz though, I was a painter most of my adult life, I like the water based killz for painting but not for mold or anything like that, and most def you have to put bleach on first to kill everything, than use the best to cover it up and make it easily cleanable!

 

Peace

Jim

 

If its the smell get a resperator and do it and get out, let it air out and its all good!

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Why latex kilz? how come you dont use the original oil based kilz, Im gonna paint my block walls and cemento floor with a 2 part opoxy, after I bleach the hell out of every thing, than im gonna kilz it, than im gonna epoxy the floor, put up the shiny walls, ceiling, tape all seems with the shiny heater duct tape, and hope its gone, My c.g uses something you cant spray directly on the plant, but you put it all over the floors and walls, he says to put it in the door ways on the floor and when you walk thru the door your bringing the mite killer in with ya! he has no mites at this time, he says every one gets em here and there, you have to take pre action to make sure you dont get them,

 

Hey christy how the hell do you find them all over, man I have a hard enough time finding them with my magnifyers, bunny muffin I need xannys to keep from shaking to look thru that lil maginfyer lol!

 

Im interested in knowing why latex killz though, I was a painter most of my adult life, I like the water based killz for painting but not for mold or anything like that, and most def you have to put bleach on first to kill everything, than use the best to cover it up and make it easily cleanable!

 

Peace

Jim

 

If its the smell get a resperator and do it and get out, let it air out and its all good!

Two part epoxy paint provides a seal. No use for Kilz after that. Kilz is for bleed through. Like if you have a yellowed spot on a ceiling from and old leak. It stops it from bleeding through your new whilte ceiling paint.

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