Bred From Landrace Genetics - Double Trouble Berry

[GardenLord]

Our very first medicinal strain called "Double Trouble Berry"
It's genetics are passed down from specific generation breeds to get just the right phenos. They are our own acquired landrace genetics and organically grown by hand and with love, it's parents soil types was specific to the region it was from and the Double Trouble Berry baby had many types of soil compositions, we finally came up with a specific soil just for this strain.

Landrace genetics include 

• Highland Thai Afghani Indica
• Afghani Indica
• Highland Oxacan Gold Sativa
• Chocolate Thai Sativa
• Purple Thai Sativa
• Mexico Sativa
• Colombia Sativa

This is a highly medicinal strain with thc levels of 20%+ and cbd levels of 4%+ !!! A phone call confirmed earlier this morning.
We are waiting for more accurate results from a much better plant soon.

High Resoultion
http://i.imgur.com/CHs3QY0.jpg

Edited February 22, 2014 by GardenLord

[GardenLord]

Breeding is an art form and i'll give you some insight on how we achieved our results.

Selection is 50% breeding. Having a large pool of seedlings to choose from is essential. I think i went through well over 1000 seedlings during the entire process of creating of this strain and choose only 14 for our mothers. 

Patience and love is 25% breeding. Having a cool head and a stable mentality during the time with your babies will make everything that much better.

Time and effort is the other 25%. Investing enough time and enough energy will truly show.

You don't have to pollinate the cola, in fact don't! Pollinate the lower branches, in true wild landrace plants, the lower branches will have a larger number of pollinated buds, infact most of the time there is one maybe two seeds in the colas on landrace where the lower branches will have many!!!! Imitate nature!!!!!

When creating a strain it's required to breed multiple versions of the same plant using different techniques! sog, hydro, organic, inorganic, dirt, soiless, ect.

Edited February 22, 2014 by GardenLord

[trichcycler]

what traits/expressions were you singling out in the project? Did you make use of a Punnets Square? How far did you go with the final selections(cubed, f1, f3, ...).

 

what week past 12/12 change do you fertilize? Did you know that your room conditions at the time of seed development is a deciding factor of seed viability? many don't understand that fact. I bet you do

 

I could breed all day, but plant count limits stifle the progress, and increase the time needed. I've been culturing tissue since childhood and even brought a decades old brothers grimm selection  out of suspended animation. My breeding projects are concentrated in tissue culture breeding only, to avoid the plant count, space, and time issues. I keep artificial seeds in test tubes, instead of moms also to stay within limits.

[free420country]

I want to know more about this tissue culture

[trichcycler]

sure thing, I'll start a thread, maybe throw up some pics, maybe even show a glow in the dark cultured plant !!

I want to know more about this tissue culture

[GardenLord]

what traits/expressions were you singling out in the project? Did you make use of a Punnets Square? How far did you go with the final selections(cubed, f1, f3, ...).

 

what week past 12/12 change do you fertilize? Did you know that your room conditions at the time of seed development is a deciding factor of seed viability? many don't understand that fact. I bet you do

 

I could breed all day, but plant count limits stifle the progress, and increase the time needed. I've been culturing tissue since childhood and even brought a decades old brothers grimm selection  out of suspended animation. My breeding projects are concentrated in tissue culture breeding only, to avoid the plant count, space, and time issues. I keep artificial seeds in test tubes, instead of moms also to stay within limits.

 

The traits desired were as follows in order from highest to lowest and will always be present

• High THC Levels of 20%+
• Medium to High CBD Levels of 4%+
• Fruity smell and taste (very important, and very hard to single out before you flower!)
• High yield
• Tight node growth. (A making whoopee nightmare to achieve with mostly sativa landrace, but we did it!)

 

Extra lucky traits that exist in the strain but require germinating around 3-5 seed to get the trait to show (normal non-blue dtbs are a very lush green)

• Blueish/Purplish Flowers with a dark dark blue green leaves.
• Resistance to viruses, fungi, bacteria (This was a very lucky find since our greenhouse is completely sanitary and no pests/insects, this plant is highly resistant to viruses, fungi, bacteria!) 
• Increased tolerance to insects and pests (had a few plants we just let our farm raised locust eat, they didn't like it too much)

 

Punnett Squares were intensively used through out the entire project. There is a 3 subject notebook full of squares, no notes at all just squares!

 

In my experience you should never go past F2, once you have F2 Genetics you should stop inbreeding, at this point you need to be redefining traits and back-crossing the well defined traits into your genetics that you want to show up all the time. Not trying to stabilize what is there since the act of breeding a Female F1 and Male F1 will stabilize the genetics. What you should do, is breed yourself hundreds of F1 Females, and Males, Selecting the ones that show you good genetics for that sex, ie (male and female both need tight node and color genetics) (females need good smell, taste, high, and yield) (males need lots of flower/pollen production, if your male genetics don't have tight node spacing, DO NOT BREED WITH IT)

 

on the 2nd week they are in veg i move over to flowering nutes and move them to the flowering house at this point. nute them untill they reach 4-8  weeks depending on strain sometimes ill wait till 9 weeks to start flushing, then no matter what i let the plant flower till it has 2-3 weeks left and i flush with RO water

 

Yes! Room conditions at the time of seed development is a deciding factor of seed viability and is about 75% Seed producing! (There is so much that can go wrong in seed development. think of it like bud production you want a similar environment for bud production! )

 

The other 25% is knowing when to pollinate the female! ( fyi its at the 1st week of a 6 weeker,  3rd week of a 8 weeker and even the 5-6th week if you're flowering a 12+ week plant)

 

I too tissue culture !

 

During this project, we did use grafted plants for a specific strain that we wanted

 

- It's stock was highly resistant to insects, pests, viruses, fungi, bacteria

 

its scion was one of our best female F1's and our best F1 male

 

Then crossed the two different graphed plants resulting in an outdoor version!

Edited February 22, 2014 by GardenLord

[trichcycler]

ooooweeee!, I could be a good friend to you mang ! lol

 

do you utilize light deprivation on indoor plants before they go to flower in the greenhouse, or one crop/year for evaluation?

 

what city are you near?

[GardenLord]

I love light deprivation for males. What is so awesome is you can get males to flower and flower continually forever on vegetative lighting, if you light dep em once for 12 hours and put em back in to 18/6
(all my veg and male room are 18/6, even clones/seedlings an old school trick is to keep your continually flowering forever males(covered with a clear ziplock bag taken off  never, you use your breath and a straw to circulate air for it) in the regular vegetative room)
The pollen that might get on the plants if any (seriously never had a problem with random pollen) will die in a few days, so it will be nonviable by the time it gets into your flowering tent anyway. 

females tend to stretch too much with light dep.

I'm always looking for friends! I don't get out much, nor do i have any growing or breeding buddies,

I currently reside in Mt Clemens, although its quite a trek out to the farm (its a few hours away) so i tend to stay at the farm and remote access my pc from a laptop from the free wifi i get at the coffee house. 

How about you ?

[trichcycler]

I'd be north less than a hundred miles from you. I don't have any grow buddies either, and definitely nobody culturing or breeding.

watch your private messages now, surely some will arrive warning of a meet. no worries, it would take a year maybe of

net knowing before we got together. I'm shy.

 

I know nobody would keep garbage in stasis, so fess up new friend, what cultured strains are you hogging ?

Have you cultured anthers yet? roots? seeds? breeding in vitro? (if not, you gonna love me soon) 

anther culture is like marijuana from another planet. seems dna is wired differently or something. makes no sense to me,

but for a whopper experience I suggest it.

 

whats the oldest cut bud you've been able to "revive"? if you tried......I saw Frankenstein at a young age, so..........

 

for good results, we could move our culture experience to my tc thread, and leave your breeding/seeding thread intact? up to you, I could ruin your thread though, I've seen me do it !

[GardenLord]

I'd be north less than a hundred miles from you. I don't have any grow buddies either, and definitely nobody culturing or breeding.

watch your private messages now, surely some will arrive warning of a meet. no worries, it would take a year maybe of

net knowing before we got together. I'm shy.

 

I know nobody would keep garbage in stasis, so fess up new friend, what cultured strains are you hogging ?

Have you cultured anthers yet? roots? seeds? breeding in vitro? (if not, you gonna love me soon) 

anther culture is like marijuana from another planet. seems dna is wired differently or something. makes no sense to me,

but for a whopper experience I suggest it.

 

whats the oldest cut bud you've been able to "revive"? if you tried......I saw Frankenstein at a young age, so..........

 

for good results, we could move our culture experience to my tc thread, and leave your breeding/seeding thread intact? up to you, I could ruin your thread though, I've seen me do it !

I too am shy, especially when it comes to bringing people onto my farm.

 

Sure since it will be much more on topic i'll post over in their to answer to you

 

 

 

 

[trichcycler]

no matter how good a friend we became, I don't ever need to see your garden, and you'll never see mine. my own wife saw it twice, one time under construction, and my first 30 in various flower stages.  Since then only from a vid monitor inside my home. anal about some things and hypocritically lax with others, I know..so what

[Norby]

 

The traits desired were as follows in order from highest to lowest and will always be present

• High THC Levels of 20%+
• Medium to High CBD Levels of 4%+
• Fruity smell and taste (very important, and very hard to single out before you flower!)
• High yield
• Tight node growth. (A making whoopee nightmare to achieve with mostly sativa landrace, but we did it!)

 

Extra lucky traits that exist in the strain but require germinating around 3-5 seed to get the trait to show (normal non-blue dtbs are a very lush green)

• Blueish/Purplish Flowers with a dark dark blue green leaves.
• Resistance to viruses, fungi, bacteria (This was a very lucky find since our greenhouse is completely sanitary and no pests/insects, this plant is highly resistant to viruses, fungi, bacteria!) 
• Increased tolerance to insects and pests (had a few plants we just let our farm raised locust eat, they didn't like it too much)

 

Punnett Squares were intensively used through out the entire project. There is a 3 subject notebook full of squares, no notes at all just squares!

 

In my experience you should never go past F2, once you have F2 Genetics you should stop inbreeding, at this point you need to be redefining traits and back-crossing the well defined traits into your genetics that you want to show up all the time. Not trying to stabilize what is there since the act of breeding a Female F1 and Male F1 will stabilize the genetics. What you should do, is breed yourself hundreds of F1 Females, and Males, Selecting the ones that show you good genetics for that sex, ie (male and female both need tight node and color genetics) (females need good smell, taste, high, and yield) (males need lots of flower/pollen production, if your male genetics don't have tight node spacing, DO NOT BREED WITH IT)

 

on the 2nd week they are in veg i move over to flowering nutes and move them to the flowering house at this point. nute them untill they reach 4-8  weeks depending on strain sometimes ill wait till 9 weeks to start flushing, then no matter what i let the plant flower till it has 2-3 weeks left and i flush with RO water

 

Yes! Room conditions at the time of seed development is a deciding factor of seed viability and is about 75% Seed producing! (There is so much that can go wrong in seed development. think of it like bud production you want a similar environment for bud production! )

 

The other 25% is knowing when to pollinate the female! ( fyi its at the 1st week of a 6 weeker,  3rd week of a 8 weeker and even the 5-6th week if you're flowering a 12+ week plant)

 

I too tissue culture !

 

During this project, we did use grafted plants for a specific strain that we wanted

 

- It's stock was highly resistant to insects, pests, viruses, fungi, bacteria

 

its scion was one of our best female F1's and our best F1 male

 

Then crossed the two different graphed plants resulting in an outdoor version!

May I ask why you grafted for a breeding project?  Was there a problem with the roots?

[GardenLord]

May I ask why you grafted for a breeding project?  Was there a problem with the roots?

We were specifically breeding an outdoor variety, along side it's cousin indoor variety. So grafting our scion onto a stock that has far better resistant to insects, pests, viruses, fungi, bacteria was a no brainier.

 

you'll get far better results trying to grow an indoor strain outside if you graft both male and female indoor scion on to separate outdoor stock, then breed the two. the resulting is a very robust plant with all the characteristics of the indoor variety . infact the farm raised locust hate the outdoor version but the indoor they love it!

 

This is how you sometimes see indoor strains become outdoor, they utilize grafting. if not they just throw an indoor outside and hope for the best. sometimes it works.

Edited February 23, 2014 by GardenLord

[trichcycler]

shoot, the more I learn, the dumber I feel.

now you've got me thinking about environmental manipulation

and tissue cultures. The same result would be anticipated.

how friggen enlightening. thanks for that.

[trichcycler]

I've grafted males to female moms in the past, just to see if it would work. who would have thought it could have practical application. news to me. I never had an issue with any supposed pest magnet strains, or one with growing an outdoor strain in the indoors though. but I'm seeing the light.

[GardenLord]

I'm still learning too! I feel dumb everyday! So don't feel bad. 

Environmental manipulation is a must for us. we try to replicate the soil 100% to the area, as well as emulated weather conditions for the time it is in the life. if its rainy that time of year you better believe we are foliar spraying! Except in flowering we never spray anything on our plants during the flowering stage.

I think i may have confused you, we graft a male scion on one highly resistant male stock, then graft a female scion on another highly resistant female stock. they are different plants. once they finish healing, we flower and then pollinate once ovulation is prime. once they are done with their seed production. we regrow them indoor and outdoor with similar care.

Once it's finished we had the locus snack on both on different days, at different times of ripeness. and if done right the locust should only eat the indoor, Some strains will allure bugs, like locust. locust LOVE cannabis. if your outdoor doesn't get eaten but the indoor does you know you've hit the jackpot.

I did not know you could graft male to female, and vice versa! Thanks for that! I feel dumb now!

 

[Norby]

We were specifically breeding an outdoor variety, along side it's cousin indoor variety. So grafting our scion onto a stock that has far better resistant to insects, pests, viruses, fungi, bacteria was a no brainier.

 

you'll get far better results trying to grow an indoor strain outside if you graft both male and female indoor scion on to separate outdoor stock, then breed the two. the resulting is a very robust plant with all the characteristics of the indoor variety . infact the farm raised locust hate the outdoor version but the indoor they love it!

 

This is how you sometimes see indoor strains become outdoor, they utilize grafting. if not they just throw an indoor outside and hope for the best. sometimes it works.

It's always worked well for me.  Grafting on an outdoor plants roots does nothing for the resulting seeds, it doesn't change them other than maybe providing better nutrition if your indoor variety is that bad at repelling virus and bacteria and fungi in the root or stem zone.  I've never had virus' or bacteria or fungi or pest problems on the roots or stems of outdoor plants whether bred for indoor or out so I guess I don't understand why.  I just grow outside if I plan on making an outdoor strain and choose accordingly from the offspring or do the same indoors.  Grafting is fun but it only works when you graft it nothing is passed into the genetics from the root system.  It just serves to feed the plant.  Locusts would like an indoor variety that was grown indoors just because of teh soft growth produced.  Grow that same plant outdoors and they may not like it because the plant produces thicker cell walls or "hard growth".

Edited February 23, 2014 by Norby

[GardenLord]

It's always worked well for me.  Grafting on an outdoor plants roots does nothing for the resulting seeds, it doesn't change them other than maybe providing better nutrition if your indoor variety is that bad at repelling virus and bacteria and fungi in the root or stem zone.  I've never had virus' or bacteria or fungi or pest problems on the roots or stems of outdoor plants whether bred for indoor or out so I guess I don't understand why.  I just grow outside if I plan on making an outdoor strain and choose accordingly from the offspring or do the same indoors.  Grafting is fun but it only works when you graft it nothing is passed into the genetics from the root system.  It just serves to feed the plant.  Locusts would like an indoor variety that was grown indoors just because of teh soft growth produced.  Grow that same plant outdoors and they may not like it because the plant produces thicker cell walls or "hard growth".

I never said the plants will get any genetics from the rootstock. they only allow the indoor scion to feed better in outdoor conditions. A slight side effect is that the resulting seeds from the grafted plant will will infact produce more of its own traits geared towards outdoor i.e. more fibrous stems and similar traits will show. because of the environment it's growing in, due to the plant trying to react towards hazards, for its offspring. this is true if you grow the same strain normally outdoor and normally indoor, the seeds will have their traits shown and geared towards there current environment. As a breeder you should know that environment matters, you will undoubtedly see this if you breed in multiple environments.

 

We only grafted to better feed the plant.

[mrd]

So are you saying that environmental conditions can cause an expression of inherent genes and the qualities expressed will then be more likely to be expressed in seed made from that plant?

[GardenLord]

So are you saying that environmental conditions can cause an expression of inherent genes and the qualities expressed will then be more likely to be expressed in seed made from that plant?

Exactly so. at-least this is what we have been noticing.

[Norby]

Phenotypic plasticity.  They grow specific traits in reaction to the conditions.  Wet, Hi UV, wind cold etc. will strengthen the stems thicken the cell walls and generally change the plant, change the color of the stems, etc..  Growing outside also has the seeds forming in the conditions they will experience.  Some seeds have been chosen for 70-80f and 50% humidity so long that they would only thrive outside in CA.  Basically, it doesn't tremendously change the seeds coding so you have to choose offspring that react well to the conditions you'll have.