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Veg To Flower Transition In Dwc

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Looking for educated opinions-

 

When I switch from veg (t5's) to flower (HPS) there is often a day or two of slight (or if the plant is extra large- more than slight) wilting.  As soon as  I move them I usually do some pruning (as well as cloning).  The question is - should I stress the plants more by pruning it during the transition (when it may be a little wilted) or wait until they recover from the stress of  being moved then stress them again by pruning.    Another way to look at it- do I stress them to a greater degree (transition and pruning) for a short period of time  or subject them to a lesser degree of stress (transition then pruning) for a longer period?

 

Thanks in advance for your thoughts!

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Looking for educated opinions-

 

When I switch from veg (t5's) to flower (HPS) there is often a day or two of slight (or if the plant is extra large- more than slight) wilting.  As soon as  I move them I usually do some pruning (as well as cloning).  The question is - should I stress the plants more by pruning it during the transition (when it may be a little wilted) or wait until they recover from the stress of  being moved then stress them again by pruning.    Another way to look at it- do I stress them to a greater degree (transition and pruning) for a short period of time  or subject them to a lesser degree of stress (transition then pruning) for a longer period?

 

Thanks in advance for your thoughts!

 

I have been working with DWC for several years and also transfer from T5 to HPS and prune/clone in the first day or two in flower.  I've never noticed wilting per se - more just the plants looking a little droopy during lights off.  I haven't encountered any indication that the plants are stressed (such as low yield, hermies, etc.) - except for a blueberry that would throw nanners, but that seems common in blueberry strains.

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The wounds should be healed before inducing flower. Consider cloning/manicuring a week or so before flowering. always wait if you can until a plant is healthy before taking cuttings whenever you decide to do so.

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Grass. I think that's ideal, letting wounds heal. But then again my flowering plants throw out so many sucker branches by about week two in flower. It's not uncommon for me to prune 30 or more sucker branches between weeks two and three.

 

Allowing healing time probably does make a difference. But like you've pointed out many times, if you do a good job growing, a small loss of yield isn't a big deal. I think most folks can get enough from 12 plants that they don't need to sweat the small stuff.

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you can also limit stress by easing into the switch into flower.

 

e.g. turn hps with fluro at the same time , keep hps on for 1 hour a day only

then slowly increase this each day

1hr 1st day

2hr 2nd day

3hr 3rd day

4hr 4th day

...

 

until you get to 12 hours on the 12th day (when you want to start 12-12 flowering)

 

i'm not sure about lowering the number of hours each day as well, e.g. 18-6 day 1, 17-7 day 2 , 16-8 day 3, 15-9 day 4... could cause more problems, but this is how it works in nature? i dunno.

 

this will slowly increase the hps light over a week in order to harden off the plant.

 

this is the same principle used when starting vegetable seeds indoors for 2 weeks , bringing the seedlings outside during the warm part of the day and bringing the plants in at night.

 

reducing stress increases yields and decreases the risk of hermies.

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because the wilting could be caused by either heat from the hps, or light stress , making the plant give off more humidity to save its leaves, causing the plant to wilt more as it expends water from the leaves.

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Shocked from the light, small size root zone with X times the light aren't able to uptake sufficient amount of water/nutes. They are looking for sunglasses. Major PAR change. Clone/clean up suckers before transition. Raising your lights regardless the first few days is wise and watch your environmentals. 

Download a VPD Chart, this will solve a lot of problems and help diagnose future issues. (I don't know how to add the chart on here)  :thumbsu:

 

 

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I have been working with DWC for several years and also transfer from T5 to HPS and prune/clone in the first day or two in flower.  I've never noticed wilting per se - more just the plants looking a little droopy during lights off.  I haven't encountered any indication that the plants are stressed (such as low yield, hermies, etc.) - except for a blueberry that would throw nanners, but that seems common in blueberry strains.

I also work with RDWC, and i take clones the day before i move to flower. I never saw them wilt out at all, except as you say after lights out. However i researched that and found that the plants sleep at night. Its normal... These gals have to have a minor issue, I use Thrive to the water also, that claims to reduce stress. I reccomend it , (seems to work). My plants jump when i put them under the hps they love it. Heavy wilting has been a problem for me with an early planted clone I failed to harden off appropriately. If they are fresh clones to hps that could show heat from the new hps, I suspect that there a little to close to the hood.  once they pick up size a bit there able to handle that extra heat and light. One more thing, dont prune over 30% off the plants. , if you want to trim more than that, start early  prune as it grows. . curious how long have they been in veg, what size are these plants when you move them over...

 

Ya man that blueberry is a minor pizzer, mine did the same thing, anything would start a hermie .. LOL I still grew it for a couple years.

I'm just kinda thinking here  and came up with a thought , I dont think its very possible the op is having a problem just  to move em, so its gotta be some small change , either a bit over pruning or the light is too close.. HA HA fits in my mind :) 

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I also work with RDWC, and i take clones the day before i move to flower. I never saw them wilt out at all, except as you say after lights out. However i researched that and found that the plants sleep at night. Its normal... These gals have to have a minor issue, I use Thrive to the water also, that claims to reduce stress. I reccomend it , (seems to work). My plants jump when i put them under the hps they love it. Heavy wilting has been a problem for me with an early planted clone I failed to harden off appropriately. If they are fresh clones to hps that could show heat from the new hps, I suspect that there a little to close to the hood.  once they pick up size a bit there able to handle that extra heat and light. One more thing, dont prune over 30% off the plants. , if you want to trim more than that, start early  prune as it grows. . curious how long have they been in veg, what size are these plants when you move them over...

 

Ya man that blueberry is a minor pizzer, mine did the same thing, anything would start a hermie .. LOL I still grew it for a couple years.

I'm just kinda thinking here  and came up with a thought , I dont think its very possible the op is having a problem just  to move em, so its gotta be some small change , either a bit over pruning or the light is too close.. HA HA fits in my mind :)

 

I should add to my previous post that I now flower plants for the first two weeks under T5s with a yellow spectrum. I run the same nute solution in veg and flower. RDWC actually. I used to use the Lucas formula, using only the micro and flower general hydroponics line, with a little added hygrozyme. But I frequently would forget how much micro I added to my 55-gallon barrel and would have to dump it and start over. (Turns out that medicating and mixing nutes is a bad idea). So I switched to Ionic. It's made in Michigan, which is a big plus. I only use Ionic bloom, no mixing needed, for both veg and flower at about 500 ppm. The plants seem to love it.

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Im a dwc loser lol!

 

Im surprised you guys do your clones and last trim first day of flower.....I beleive no matter what medium  you grow in, You should finish up with clones and trimming 1 to 2 weeks before changing to flower.

 

Hey what ever works for ya!

 

Peace

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Im a dwc loser lol!

 

Im surprised you guys do your clones and last trim first day of flower.....I beleive no matter what medium  you grow in, You should finish up with clones and trimming 1 to 2 weeks before changing to flower.

 

Hey what ever works for ya!

 

Peace

Yeah. But you're a wife-beater. Lol. Bahahahha. (Sarcasm). Sorry, just playing on shyt spread in another thread. Some comic relief.

 

 

Peace Phaque.

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Im a dwc loser lol!

 

Im surprised you guys do your clones and last trim first day of flower.....I beleive no matter what medium  you grow in, You should finish up with clones and trimming 1 to 2 weeks before changing to flower.

 

Hey what ever works for ya!

 

Peace

agreed, especially when plants are suffering, best to clean up any loose ends in an attempt to discover the issue.

I grow seedlings under my 1k lights with no issue, and transplant all different sizes into the flower room. my clones are lights sensitive though till rooted. Newly rooted clones are flowered on a regular basis here with no drooping. raising the lights helps many growers.

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Yeah. But you're a wife-beater. Lol. Bahahahha. (Sarcasm). Sorry, just playing on shyt spread in another thread. Some comic relief.

 

 

Peace Phaque.

Hey phaquetoo! bawahahahahahaha!  What is this wife beater crap,,,,,answer on other thread please!

 

agreed, especially when plants are suffering, best to clean up any loose ends in an attempt to discover the issue.

I grow seedlings under my 1k lights with no issue, and transplant all different sizes into the flower room. my clones are lights sensitive though till rooted. Newly rooted clones are flowered on a regular basis here with no drooping. raising the lights helps many growers.

Thanks gm,  as I said im a dwc loser, I did it one season and had more problems than I could deal with, alot of people in here tried to help me, I still failed lol!  Thats just me though, Ok sorry about budding in (pun intended)  I will just read this thread from now on since I could use some more info in case I decide to go that route down the rd.

 

Peace

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Hey phaquetoo! bawahahahahahaha!  What is this wife beater crap,,,,,answer on other thread please!

 

Thanks gm,  as I said im a dwc loser, I did it one season and had more problems than I could deal with, alot of people in here tried to help me, I still failed lol!  Thats just me though, Ok sorry about budding in (pun intended)  I will just read this thread from now on since I could use some more info in case I decide to go that route down the rd.

 

Peace

cool.

 

for the record, I never heard you were a wife beater.

 

A wise man never tells his wife to keep quiet. He tells her she looks beautiful with her mouth closed. :P

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Plants are all about momentum. Only introduce changes when you have growing momentum, aggressive growth. Introduce one change at a time and check your momentum. If you can keep the momentum from start to finish you will have a maximum harvest. 

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This is a good thread for people who need advise on dwc!

 

Im trying to just read this thread and learn from my past dwc mistakes, so I felt it should be bumped to 1st page!

 

Sorry I will not derail your thread again!

 

Peace

Jim

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