Jump to content

Timers for lights


blackhorse

Recommended Posts

I have Luminex digital ballasts and ordered new $20 Titan timers and box says not for use with digital ballasts.

I always used the mechanical timers in past but heard they might be fire issues using them.

What would you recommend for timers?

I did notice Titan has a $55 timer for sale that is for digital ballasts. 

Would like some advise before putting out $110 for two timers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Maybe that's why my digital ballasts all puked? I hate em. Now just running magnetic and then LED.

The only fire hazard I have seen is when the timers come part way unplugged and then arc causing melt down. Had that a couple times.

I use those white ones with plugs on either side. Sunleaves brand. Nice to have the indicator light on them. I also use heavy duty pool timers. Expensive but excellent. They are Intermac.

With your Titan digital ballasts I would buy the timer made for them. Otherwise you will void your warranty(joke).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had 6 Lumatek ballasts. They all eventually died taking out at least one bulb each time. I'm so glad I got away from wondering if my ballasts were going to work each day. Now they always work. Maybe my power fluctuates? Something killed em. The LED take about half the power with twice the PAR. Waiting to see the side by side comparison with a HPS 1000. At 4 weeks flower all looks good. Time will tell.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The relay would only be good to take the power load off the electric/electronic switching mechanism. Like keeping a car ignition switch from having the whole load going through the switch. You would only need that if you were somehow limited to electric/electronic switching devices. I don't like the relay idea because it allows for one more point of failure to figure out when it malfunctions. Since lights are on more than they are off the relay would need to be energized most of the time, a continuous operation relay, which would make it's lifespan shortened and it would be susceptible to overheating failure.

The mechanical timer, the one in the link, would work for decades without a problem. You can switch more than one high amp ballast with one timer.  This type and brand of timer has been used since the 60's on most safety equipment like furnaces and incinerators. It's fool proof.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, blackhorse said:

How do I copy and paste a link?

Depends on the browser you are using   . I can't even cut and paste on this site with the browser I like, Microsoft Edge. I have to switch over to Google Chrome to do it. Left click to highlight what you want to copy. Right click and select 'copy'. Right click and select 'paste' when you want to paste it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Now you see what I have been trying to bring to the attention of the users here.

I tried for months to get the administration of the site to fix it. They just keep saying, "Change your browser". 

I think it's not fair to limit the browsers you can use on a website. It gives Google a unfair monopoly.

Every single other website I use has no problem with Microsoft Edge or Internet Explorer.

It just so happens that Google Chrome is the most intrusive and invasive browser you can use.

It loads you up with adaware. Microsoft Edge doesn't allow that. 

I never ignore unfairness in anything and this is a plain example of enabling a monopoly with unfair software. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/4/2019 at 9:34 PM, blackhorse said:

I have Luminex digital ballasts and ordered new $20 Titan timers and box says not for use with digital ballasts.

I always used the mechanical timers in past but heard they might be fire issues using them.

What would you recommend for timers?

I did notice Titan has a $55 timer for sale that is for digital ballasts. 

Would like some advise before putting out $110 for two timers.

Just use a light controller and run the switch cord on the timer.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, garyfisher said:

Just use a light controller and run the switch cord on the timer.  

I've used the mechanical timers for years.

Been reading that fires can start and also burn out the bulbs.

Just trying to be safe.

Purchased two Titan Apollo 7 timers and states on package "Not for digital ballasts".

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Added note on "plugging into".   Do not use the cheap duplex outlets that the big box stores typically sell loose.  Use the premium duplex outlets rated at 20 amps.   Mechanically the cheap ones have low quality spring loaded contacts that transfer the power to the prongs on the plug.   As they age the contact degrades and it is not unusual to find the entire plastic piece in a molten mess or worse, a fire.  Yes they cost a few bucks more, but I have seen more than one outlet melted and in one case an entire garage grow burned down.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have not seen a 20 amp timer. Will look into them.

Titan has a timer specifically for digital ballast and cost is $55 each. 

They are only rated at 10 amp though.

Plan on only running the one light on the 20 amp circuit.

Set up two circuits for the two lights.

Timer is my problem now.

Wanted to copy and paste the link, but I use IE.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, blackhorse said:

I've used the mechanical timers for years.

Been reading that fires can start and also burn out the bulbs.

Just trying to be safe.

Purchased two Titan Apollo 7 timers and states on package "Not for digital ballasts".

 

With a light controller you're not running any of the amperage through a timer.  I dont care what the package says.  The timer isn't connected to the digital ballast.  Big difference.  

Intermatic timers do work great but they dont remember the time.  I live in an area with frequent power outages so theyre a nightmare.

edit:
 

your fire risks come from pushing all that amperage for your lights through your standard 110 15amp outlets.  Unless these are dedicated circuits which it sounds like they arent, there is always a risk if the wiring isnt proper.

The best way to run lights is on a 220V circuit using a light controller.  Some of the newer light controller even have built in timers (digital or not).  I build my own light controller with trigger switch and have it hooked up to a cheap digital timer from menards.  Theres literally no amperage running through the timer so it's safer than running a microwave.

Edited by garyfisher
Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, blackhorse said:

I have not seen a 20 amp timer. Will look into them.

 

Noone ever mentioned a 20 amp timer.    a 20amp timer isn't going to help you on a 15amp circuit.  And even if you do change the outlet to a 20amp outlet you would need to change the breaker to a 20amp and possibly the wiring.

This is why I run a dedicated 220V circuit for all lights.  I could run these lights on a 1amp timer because the power used by the lights never goes through the timer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Restorium2 said:

You will not find a single report that an Intermatic timer caused a fire or burned out a bulb. They are the safest option.  

The important thing; Install your breakers, wiring, and receptacles so that it doesn't matter what kind of cheap junk you plug into it. You are always safe and don't have to worry.

i disagree.  The safest option is to not run your lights on a 15amp circuit through any timer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The circuit is stand alone and I have two 20 amp circuits just for the lights.

Nothing else is tied into the circuit.

The intermatic mechanical timer is new to me.

My thought is to plug some type of timer into the 20 amp receptacle, then plug the digital ballast into the timer.

7 minutes ago, garyfisher said:

Noone ever mentioned a 20 amp timer.    a 20amp timer isn't going to help you on a 15amp circuit.  And even if you do change the outlet to a 20amp outlet you would need to change the breaker to a 20amp and possibly the wiring.

This is why I run a dedicated 220V circuit for all lights.  I could run these lights on a 1amp timer because the power used by the lights never goes through the timer.

Sorry, semicaregiver was referring to a 20 amp circuit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just didn't want you searching for a 20amp timer...  😃  Go with an intermatic and you'll be golden. 

I do have those 2 intermatics I'd be willing to sell.  I could easily mail them to you.  Unless you wanted to drive up to birch run and grab the star tonic clone.  Kill a few birds with one stone and save some dough.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...