1500 watt x 2 LED grow

[Slappy]

I'll tell you what. When I upgrade my power, i'll buy one of these yehsense. They're cheap enough. If I don't like it, it'll be the second most expensive golf disc I've ever played frisbee with.

[Restorium2]

33 minutes ago, Slappy said:

I get it, standing up for your beliefs or reasons. The passion behind it, I get it. In fact, if I wasn't a dick, we might've made good friends. However, I originally had 2 ufo led plants going. I left one under the ufo, and placed the other under my other light(secondary optical lenses) at day38. The ufo has all big top colas, but the buds about 6-7" away are going straight into the "hash bucket". Even though the other plants spent most of flowering under ufo, it's yield is way bigger than the one remaining under the ufo. So even though the lenses may not "magnify" the light, it certainly helps do the job. I got 'em side by side. Same strain, same food. I see the difference everyday.

What is it?

[Slappy]

I use the ones you say are junk, and Apollo 6.

[Slappy]

3 minutes ago, Slappy said:

I use the ones you say are junk, and Apollo 6.

Well kind of. They are Kush Innovations, which I believe became Goldleaf LED. It's better to go with 6 pods than more. There is a manufacturer defect that burns out drivers anytime you go past 6 pods. So originally they had 8 pods, but now have 6.

[Restorium2]

9 minutes ago, Slappy said:

I use the ones you say are junk, and Apollo 6.

That particular light has been discontinued due to the large amount of defects. It is junk. 

[Restorium2]

9 minutes ago, Slappy said:

Well kind of. They are Kush Innovations, which I believe became Goldleaf LED. It's better to go with 6 pods than more. There is a manufacturer defect that burns out drivers anytime you go past 6 pods. So originally they had 8 pods, but now have 6.

Kush Innovations and Goldleaf both went out of business because their light don't last. 

[Slappy]

2 minutes ago, Restorium2 said:

That particular light has been discontinued due to the large amount of defects. It is junk. 

Ha! You can't argue that I get results with that junk light. But lets be real tho. All of the lights are junk, made in china. They all work. But in comparison to what I have, I'll never use a COB or a Blackstar uv ever again.

[Restorium2]

8 minutes ago, Slappy said:

Ha! You can't argue that I get results with that junk light. But lets be real tho. All of the lights are junk, made in china. They all work. But in comparison to what I have, I'll never use a COB or a Blackstar uv ever again.

Results don't matter much if the lights don't last and the companies went out of business.

I'm helping growers find lights that are economical, work good, and last.

That's the criteria.

 

 

[Slappy]

2 minutes ago, Restorium2 said:

Results don't matter much if the lights don't last and the companies went out of business.

I'm helping growers find lights that are economical, work good, and last.

That's the criteria.

 

 

You already made a non-believer of KingDiamond. And you wanna keep advocating those LED's?

[Restorium2]

29 minutes ago, Slappy said:

You already made a non-believer of KingDiamond. And you wanna keep advocating those LED's?

Let King speak for himself.

I advocate from real life experience.

I buy the lights.

I use a meter to check them out.

I grow with them.

After all that I report what I have found. 

[Slappy]

I will let King Speak for himself(King already spoke)

I also advocate from real life experience.

I bought several kinds of different generation led lights over 7 years

Shove the light meter

I keep the ones I like

And after all that, I sell the ones I hate to another sucker. The same guy that needs a light meter.

Edited July 31, 2019 by Slappy

[Restorium2]

Ah, the light meter. 

Simple? Kind of.

You need PAR right? Definitely. It's what the plant uses to grow, photosynthesis.

So you have a PAR meter and you are golden? No. Only half way there.

Lights can put out PAR that can fool a meter. Oh NO!

Never fear there's a way to confirm the PAR your meter is reading. Really?

Yup. You confirm by growing and looking at the internodal spacing. 

To make it simple you look to see how close the nodes are together. Bushy plants have close spacing, stretchy plants have nodes spread out.

Strains of marijuana have different spacing. Some like to stretch more than others. So you really have to know your strain well before you can tell if you are giving it the best light to keep the spacing the best possible for the best harvest results.

To sum it up; 

If you use a meter and it shows great PAR ratings AND your plants are growing close nodes, like shrubbery, you know you have an effective light. 

 

[Restorium2]

 

[Slappy]

Ok, i get your point. But it doesn't mean you NEED a light meter. It only ensures that you are within the desired range according to anothers findings. I say I'm doing quite well without ever having a light meter, and have no interest in getting one. To each his own really. If the light meter makes you more content in being a grower, go ahead.

[Slappy]

13 minutes ago, Restorium2 said:

Ah, the light meter. 

Simple? Kind of.

You need PAR right? Definitely. It's what the plant uses to grow, photosynthesis.

So you have a PAR meter and you are golden? No. Only half way there.

Lights can put out PAR that can fool a meter. Oh NO!

Never fear there's a way to confirm the PAR your meter is reading. Really?

Yup. You confirm by growing and looking at the internodal spacing. 

To make it simple you look to see how close the nodes are together. Bushy plants have close spacing, stretchy plants have nodes spread out.

Strains of marijuana have different spacing. Some like to stretch more than others. So you really have to know your strain well before you can tell if you are giving it the best light to keep the spacing the best possible for the best harvest results.

To sum it up; 

If you use a meter and it shows great PAR ratings AND your plants are growing close nodes, like shrubbery, you know you have an effective light. 

 

Like I didn't just post a pic of one of my recent bushes. Hardly any internodal spacing. Now you're just hating. LOL.

[Restorium2]

So you have made a very smart investment in a meter and want to dial in your lights. 

How much PAR does a cannabis plant like?

Here's a general idea of what they like at each stage of growth;

250 PAR - Seedlings

450 PAR - teens up until around 9 inches of height (they should be ultra dense and bushy)

500 PAR - Switch to 12/12 lighting

750 PAR - Mid bloom

850 PAR - mid-late bloom

400 PAR - Last three weeks 

[Slappy]

8 minutes ago, Restorium2 said:

So you have made a very smart investment in a meter and want to dial in your lights. 

How much PAR does a cannabis plant like?

Here's a general idea of what they like at each stage of growth;

250 PAR - Seedlings

450 PAR - teens up until around 9 inches of height (they should be ultra dense and bushy)

500 PAR - Switch to 12/12 lighting

750 PAR - Mid bloom

850 PAR - mid-late bloom

400 PAR - Last three weeks 

Your so funny. It's like your talking to a guy who didn't just kill it last round without using a meter. LOL. Perhaps you should dial in your leds a bit more. Maybe you'll grow ball bats and 2liter bottles like me if you do. Go give your advice to a noob led grower. "You're advice is not needed or wanted". Remember that playboy? Came right back to ya huh? LMFAOATWTTB

[Restorium2]

As always, my posts are for educational purposes. I'm 'talking' to folks who think they might need some help. If you are not looking for help then please find something else to do. 

[Slappy]

14 minutes ago, Restorium2 said:

As always, my posts are for educational purposes. I'm 'talking' to folks who think they might need some help. If you are not looking for help then please find something else to do. 

Then recognize that you will not change my mind on any issues regarding LEDS. Quit acting like you know everything, because it's so obvious you don't. The only reason I'm still arguing is because of the misinformation you are constantly giving. I don't know if it's because you're lying about your experiences, or that you just don't want others to succeed. And before you get started on "what I say?", first it was about lenses, and then about the mites on the other forum. If you can't look at that pic and tell there are mites with the naked eye, then you are no where near experienced as you claim to be. And seriously, what the heck are cooling lenses? Show me that part diagram on an LED. Like you said earlier in different words, callin' it like I see it.

Edited August 1, 2019 by Slappy

[Restorium2]

Here's the next 1500 LED grow light I will be reviewing. If it looks good I'll ask the rep for a discount code.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SNP22XS/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Highlander]

On 7/31/2019 at 11:24 AM, Slappy said:

You already made a non-believer of KingDiamond. And you wanna keep advocating those LED's?

This is a logical fallacy.  

Failure does not prove that success is out-of-reach.   You have to look at success and work backwards from there.  Compare/contrast the grow operation in its entirety.   Changing one element of a grow operation can have wide-spread consequences. 

My own experience with the lights Resto recommended in this thread is very positive.  So we know that there is a way to succeed with these lights.  We also know that you can't simply swap out HPS and swap in LEDs and expect the same results.

I wonder why you used King Diamond's experience with these LEDs to conclude that they are no good, rather than use my experience to conclude that they actually are a good option.

Early on in the MM program in Michigan, I offered DWC advice to several people.  I told them to do EXACTLY what I do, and they would get similar results.   They all ended up deciding that DWC wasn't a good way to grow, and I'd hear stuff like:

- No, I didn't use a chiller and didn't take the temperature of my nute solution.  I stuck my hand in there, and it felt cool enough.

- No, I didn't measure dissolved oxygen.  I figured with all of the bubbles, it must be OK.

- I used to water my hempy buckets with 1500ppm nutes.  I figured that was good for DWC too.

- After I added the enzymes, the guy at the grow store told me that adding hydrogen peroxide would help stave off root rot.  So I bought a bottle at Rite-Aid and dumped it in the res - For under $1, it was worth a try.

-  A buddy of mine grows the best buds I've ever seen.  He swears by molasses.  So I gave it a try.

-  pH?  If I use RO water and mix my nutes according to instructions, the pH should be fine, right?

Note that, when discussing soil temperatures, King Diamond was only able to assume they were similar under LEDs as HPS.  He also assumed that manicuring the plants the same way he did under HPS would be fine.  Myself, I followed the lead of a grower who has been successful with LEDs and DWC and did EXACTLY as he instructed (except I used different lights - those recommended here).  I ended up with very satisfying results.  I'm sure if King Diamond applies himself, he also can be successful with the same LEDs, as he obviously has done very well with HIDs.

[Slappy]

Oh i completely understand from that perspective. I just was trying to help you get over the trial and error curve. DWC? Took me 3x to have success. I don't use water chillers, just ice water bottles to reservoir every 2 hrs or so. Store bought peroxide works effectively between 100-120ml a gallon. So more economical to buy the concentrated stuff. Molasses works, started with the old school method. Earthworm castings, fish fertilizer, and molasses for veg. Up molasses and swap fish ferts for fish emulsion. As long as you use mycos to break down complex sugars. I always PH. Always. I Prolly push more ppm, but some plants benefit from more. And as far as comparison to hps, run one led fixture next to a 600w hps. Since you're hps skills far exceed mine, you should be comparing results to that.

[Restorium2]

I think what's the most important thing is learning how to find a good LED for growing. Not a specific brand or style. 

Some ideas to follow to be successful. Like learning how to fish. 

Basically there's two things you can do to determine what's good and what isn't. It's going to apply to every light.

1. PAR Out of the box, the only way you are going to know the quantity, quality, and dispersal of the light is to check it with a meter(or have someone you trust check it for you). Or fall back on trial and error.

2. Nodal spacing after you run it at least one cycle. (or believe what someone you trust told you). 

 

 

[Restorium2]

Sometimes you can find a youtube video of the light you are considering including someone checking it with a meter. That would be a plus for someone who doesn't have a meter. But still, imagine how much easier it is to check on what your plant is getting with a meter?

I can move in another light and get the spacing just right with a meter. Nice even PAR. Nothing wasted, no leaf left wanting …. No guessing anymore. 

[glued gorilla]

Just curious, what is the actual power draw on these lights? And what are you guys pulling per light? I have thought about LEDs, but would like to hear some actual results from someone with experience.  I run double ended hps, happy with results, but very hot. Would like to save on power from cooling and lighting