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New Problems .....

smurfette

By smurfette
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smurfette Advanced Member

smurfette

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OK... my skunks are in flowering, they are appx. 36" inches tall, quite 'leggy' budding well, but now I've noticed that the fan leafs are folding and curling... I have had problem after problem with this strain, so now what is this? I've been reading online and according to what I've read it "could" be a phosphorus def. I had a problem with the leaves getting brown spots and tried cal/mag, still have this problem but not to the degree it was, am I suppose to keep experimenting til the problems go away? I'm about 30 days from harvest... PLZ!! ADVIZE!!!

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Minion Advanced Member

Minion

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Flush out your plants. Add three times the amount of water for the container size. Example: 1 gallon pot gets 3 gallons of water. Normally, when problems occur, it is most likely that there is an Nutrient problem. To much or to little. Adjust your Fert. dosage. PEACE

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smurfette Advanced Member

smurfette

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well... I dont know why my email didnt notify me when I had replies, sorry for the dely...well lets start with room spec's temp is 78- hum is appx 53% the plants have PLENTY of light, ventilation, filtration etc.... yes these had the mites, no reoccurrence since using the hot shots(thank-you very much)my schedule for water/nut's is *feed water water feed* they are in 7 gal pots and need water every other day they get 4 cups each time as to not over or under water them, seems to work they are dry enough between waterings a nice trickle leaks from the drain holes(not to much-not to little),so they just had water saturday & today and will need nut's wednesday. have been using the technaflora kit... adding cal/mag also. did I miss anything?

I will try to get some pix later.... my sweet cindy's are doing VERY WELL! flowering/budding(compact) like crazy! trichomes are nice and shiny on the leaves :) about 25 days from harvest. will get a pix of them too. thank you everyone for your help and advise! I appreciate it!

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JuztBudz Advanced Member

+JuztBudz

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Run water through them until they start to leak out the bottom...take a clear cup and gather the water that is running out of the bottom. If it is clear, then you haven't got lockout of nutes. If the water running off is urine colored then that is your problem. Flush them immediately! 3 gals. for each gallon of the container. Using 7 gallon pots, that means about 21 gals need to be run through the medium. That is, if you are in soil...Peace...j.b.

 

p.s. while it doesn't sound as tho you are overwatering, some adjustments may need to be done. What I do, in 5 gal pots, is water til there is some run-off from the bottom of the pot, then I wait 3 days to water again. Hope this helps...Peace

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smurfette Advanced Member

smurfette

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Run water through them until they start to leak out the bottom...take a clear cup and gather the water that is running out of the bottom. If it is clear, then you haven't got lockout of nutes. If the water running off is urine colored then that is your problem. Flush them immediately! 3 gals. for each gallon of the container. Using 7 gallon pots, that means about 21 gals need to be run through the medium. That is, if you are in soil...Peace...j.b.

 

p.s. while it doesn't sound as tho you are overwatering, some adjustments may need to be done. What I do, in 5 gal pots, is water til there is some run-off from the bottom of the pot, then I wait 3 days to water again. Hope this helps...Peace

what is the urine colored problem mean?

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smurfette Advanced Member

smurfette

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what is the urine colored problem mean?

I just watered them earlier today, the water coming from the drain holes seemed to be clear, but I will check again when I water on wednesday. I can't wait 3 days between waterings, they wilt real bad by the 2nd day.... every other day seems to be what they need.

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AbsoluteRoyal Advanced Member

AbsoluteRoyal

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Sounds like like you could be under/over watering, but here is the best guide I know of to diagnose and fix leaf curl

 

Props go out to Uncle Ben for the guide, I only pasted it here.

http://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/150004-plant-moisture-stress-symptoms-solutions.html

 

Plant Moisture Stress - symptoms and solutions

PLANT MOISTURE STRESS - symptoms and solutions (revised Jan. 12, 2009)

 

Quite often I hear groans from folks having leaf problems -> “Help, my leaves are cupping and the leaf edges are turning brown!”, or, “My plant's leaf tips are curling down and turning black ....what's wrong?” Unless insect damage has occurred or the plant is suffering from a severe case of calcium deficiency, the plant is trying to tell you that it is water stressed. It's hard to tell *exactly* what the culprit is, and unfortunately the “solution” the grower chooses many times is not the right one. A mis-diagnosis only serves to make matters worse by promoting further decline. I’ll try to cover some of the more common causes that can induce these common symptoms and try to offer a few simple solutions. The ultimate and correct solution is in the hands of the grower.

 

1. Over-fertilizing - the most common cause of leaf cupping aka leaf margin rolling, leaf margin burn, and leaf tip curl/burn is the overzealous use of too much plant food in relationship to factors such as plant size, vigor and rate of growth. The first unit of a plant to show moisture stress is the leaf at its margins and/or tips, reflected by margin rolling (cupping) or burning. Sometimes copper colored necrotic spots show in the leaf also. A hard, crispy feel to the leaf frequently occurs as well, as opposed to a soft and cool feel of a happy leaf. When you have a high concentration of salts in solution (or in the root medium) compared to lower salinity levels found in the plant’s tissue, water is actually drawn out of the plant across the root gradient in order to fix the ppm imbalance. IOW, this is a natural, osmotic response that serves to equalize salinity levels on both sides of the root’s epidermal gradient. Back off on the amount and/or frequency of plant food. Too much plant food can also burn the roots, especially the sensitive root tips and hairs, which then creates another set of problems such as nutrient deficiencies. A note for the bio folks - as soil dries, the concentration of the remaining salts rises further exacerbating the problem. Leach (flush) your pots once in a while to get rid of excess salts.

 

2. High Heat - the plant is losing water via it’s leaves faster than what can be replaced by the root system. The leaf responds by leaf margin cupping or rolling (up or down) in order to conserve moisture. A good example is reflected by the appearance of broad-bladed turf grass on a hot summer day, high noon, with low soil moisture levels - the leaf blade will roll in and the grass will take on a dull, greyish-green appearance. Upon sunrise when moisture levels have returned to normal, the leaf blade will be flat. Lower the heat and concentrate on developing a large, robust root system by practicing sound plant culture. An efficient and effective root system will go a long way to prevent heat induced leaf dessication and leaf margin curling by supplying sufficient moisture for good plant health. One short episode of high heat is enough to permanently destroy leaf tissue and cause a general decline in the leaves affected, which often occurs to leaves found at the top of the plant located near HID lamps. The damaged leaf (usually) does not recover, no matter what you do. Bummer in the summer. One can only look to new growth for indications that the problem has been corrected.

 

3. High Light - yes, it’s true, you can give our faves too much light. Cannabis does not receive full sun from sunrise to sunset in its natural state. It is shaded or given reduced light levels because of adjacent plant material, cloudy conditions, rain, debris and dust collection on the leaf surface, twilight periods of early morning and late afternoon, and light intensity changes caused by a change in the seasons. Too much light mainly serves to bleach out and destroy chlorophyll as opposed to causing leaf cupping, but it often goes hand-in-hand with high heat for indoor growers. Again, back off on the light and concentrate on developing/maintaining an efficient and robust root system. Keep in mind that all but equatorial material receive less light during flowering than during the vegetative stage.

 

4. Overwatering - this practice only serves to weaken the root system by depriving the roots of proper gas exchange. IOW, the roots are not getting enough oxygen which creates an anerobic condition causing root decline and root rot with the end result showing up as leaf stress, stunted growth, and in severe cases, death. <gasp!> Alot of times folks think the plant is not getting enough plant food (which it can't under such adverse conditions), they add more nutes for a "curative", and just add insult to injury.

 

5. Underwatering - not only is the plant now stressed due to a low supply of adequate moisture, but carbohydrate production has been greatly compromised (screwed up). Step up the watering frequency, and if need be, organic growers may need to soak the pot from the bottom up until moisture levels reach an even consistency throughout the medium especially with mixes that are heavy in peat. If severe, a little surfactant (liquid Ivory dish soap) added to the drench will help return the organics back to a normal moisture retentive state. If the pot feels light to the lift - it’s time to water. Don’t wait until the soil pulls away from the sides of the pot or leaves droop before you water.

 

Happy gardening,

Uncle Ben

 

 

hope it helps you make the right choice

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HerbanLegendSeeds Advanced Member

HerbanLegendSeeds

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What soil are you using?

Also what is the PH of the nutrient solution and the ph plain waterings you have been using?

 

It looks like your starting to get nutrient lockout, usually from improper PH in your waterings or bad soil mix.

 

Check this out please concerning your no pest strips

 

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=122627

 

Also here is some more info to help you diagnose your problem.

 

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688

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smurfette Advanced Member

smurfette

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What soil are you using?

Also what is the PH of the nutrient solution and the ph plain waterings you have been using?

 

It looks like your starting to get nutrient lockout, usually from improper PH in your waterings or bad soil mix.

 

Check this out please concerning your no pest strips

 

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=122627

 

Also here is some more info to help you diagnose your problem.

 

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688

we transplanted a month ago using frog(?) soil, did'nt fert for 3 weeks, just did a mix of the technaflora kit for plants in flower stage. watered in plain water today. PH is appx 6.0 - 6.2 didnt check PH of nut. solution, hmmmm news to me. will next time! water is reverse osmosis water. how do you fix nut. lock-out?

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smurfette Advanced Member

smurfette

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we transplanted a month ago using frog(?) soil, did'nt fert for 3 weeks, just did a mix of the technaflora kit for plants in flower stage. watered in plain water today. PH is appx 6.0 - 6.2 didnt check PH of nut. solution, hmmmm news to me. will next time! water is reverse osmosis water. how do you fix nut. lock-out?

I put the NPS in there abut a month & half ago, pretty sure the majority of the potency has decreased.

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