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donnachris

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congrats

 

long hair bri is awesome, he has helped me out many times.

 

Yes he is, he gave me some very good common sense tips about what I should be doing to my plants. Like pulling the dead leaves off the plants, funny thing is, I think thiso htis off my house plants but never even considered taking the dead leaves off the plant or not letting the dead leaves sit on top of the pro-mix. He also brought me a few gifts which really surprised me so I had to share with him. He told me he needed a couple of the UK clones so I gave him a couple.

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if you already have mites... use MIGHTY WASH... its just frequency water.. can be used up to time of harvest.. but wash off with power wash. it works instantally, killing all mites..

 

but its not a preventative.. its if you already have em.. use Azamax as a preventative.. it stops mildew also.. used to use Mite-rid.. mighty wash is much better. check it out.

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if you already have mites... use MIGHTY WASH... its just frequency water.. can be used up to time of harvest.. but wash off with power wash. it works instantally, killing all mites..

 

but its not a preventative.. its if you already have em.. use Azamax as a preventative.. it stops mildew also.. used to use Mite-rid.. mighty wash is much better. check it out.

 

Don't know about that. I just helped a friend with a persistent mite infestation. We tried Mighty Wash...I checked 3 days later and we saw zero results. I could almost hear them laughing at us...

 

and for 40 bucks a gallon (pre-mix) that's some expensive snake oil.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, so I've sprayed the little buggers four times already. I was told to spray them five times then do monthly maintenance. I am going to be using azamax for maintenance and hope like heck that I never get the little buggers again. Other than that the plants are doing great, there is still no sign of webs and when I check leaves for mites or eggs I am only seeing one mite on like ten checked leaves and I am not seeing that many eggs left. Soon it will be all over. Hope it never happens again.

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  • 1 month later...

Something that you will want to keep in mind is the fact that the 'borg' is very adaptable and quickly build up a tolerance to whatever you use on them, so, you are going to want to add a couple of other control methods to your arsenal. That way you will always be one step ahead of these buggers... Peace ... j.b.

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I hang two "Hot shot solids" in a room and never see a mite again. these work awesome and last a very long time. they run about 8-10 dollars at the d-pot

takes abotu 10 days - two weeks to clean up a bug problem, but its cheap and effective....

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Something that you will want to keep in mind is the fact that the 'borg' is very adaptable and quickly build up a tolerance to whatever you use on them, so, you are going to want to add a couple of other control methods to your arsenal. That way you will always be one step ahead of these buggers... Peace ... j.b.

I am also treating with Azamax.

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Mighty Wash really is snake oil, they claim its just water with a wetting agent. Psh, no wetting agent I've used is an oil, they are almost always a surfactant. Open your bottle of mighty wash and peer inside, wow, oil floating on top. The fact these guys don't get called out on this scam is amazing.

 

I have given up on trying to get through to people on mite treatments. You are just going to have to learn the long and hard way. I could list reason upon reason why 90% of the treatments offered up here won't work, but I'd waste my breath.

 

I've battled mites for 10 years an have a fondness now for them and what they can actually do for you as a breeder, but that's another thread. The method I use to "control" mites is pretty simple and I'll post it here for any one who wants it. More than likely it similar to someones regiment, either way, this is the only thing to control them. You are never truly rid of them, you are always one step away from re-infestation. Could be soil, cat, mouse, tear in a filter, crack in a wall, it doesn't matter. Just don't get cocky and assume you've "won", you will never defeat the mites, but you can control them.

 

Organic Pest Annihilation Technique

(That never burns plants)

 

Materials

Dyna-Gro Neem Oil

Coco-Wet

Hot Water

2 Gallon Piston Pump Sprayer

 

Step 1:

Heat neem oil to liquid consistency (Approx 90-100 degrees Fahrenheit). Add 2-5 caps (20-50ml) of warmed neem oil to sprayer (2 being lightest as a preventative regiment, and 5 as the highest for very bad infestations).

 

Step 2:

Turn hot tap water on and allow it to reach its hottest temp (Be careful not burn your self). Add a small amount of hot water to sprayer bottle and then add 1-2 caps (7.5-15ml) of coco-wet for an emulsifier. Agitate sprayer bottle to mix.

 

Step 3:

Fill sprayer with hot water to the sprayers “MAX-FILL” line.

 

Step 4:

Replace piston pump, and pump sprayer handle until pressure is achieved. Turn sprayer nozzle completely closed (tighten), and then loosen it ¼ to ½ turn and begin spraying your plants. Adjust sprayer to ensure a fine mist.

 

Step 5:

Spray plants in a grid fashion from side to side, and top to bottom in a grid fashion. Ensuring all leaf and stem surfaces are sprayed.

 

Step 6:

Approx every minute gently agitate the entire sprayer bottle to ensure neem oil and hot water are mixed together.

 

Step 7:

Monitor the spray bottles contents, when 75% of the water has been used a thin layer or neem oil can be seen on the surface of the water. Avoid spraying this layer as it may clog your sprayer and/or clog plants stomata.

 

Step 8:

When all plants are sprayed it is generally good practice to spray them again to ensure total coverage.

 

Notes:

 

It is important to use the hot water mixture quickly. If mixture cools too much the neem oil will harden and separate from the water, rendering it ineffective. With typical hot tap water the spray has a lifetime of approx 1-2 hours.

 

You must keep the mix agitated to ensure the neem stays emulsified and consistent through the spraying process.

 

You can “technically” spray this up until the day of harvest. However I recommend using this until the fourth week of flowering. We usually apply a heavy dose during the 3rd or 4th week regardless of whether the plant has pests or not. This is to leave a residue that will deter pests for a further 2-3 weeks thus, reducing chance of re-infestation, but still allowing for the residue to be removed naturally by the plants systems and undergo degredation under the HIDs (This has been proven time and time again. in scientific journals, that after 28 days there are almost no instances of detectable levels of contaminants/residue).

 

Neem is all organic but works in waves rather than a mass death. Most pests will die during the spray, and any eggs that hatch will be weakened and suffer from deformities in growth. Therefore it is recommended to spray twice a week for established infections with heavier rates of neem. Once infection is removed, spraying a lighter dose every other week serves as a deterrent to all pests and some molds/mildews/bacteria/viruses/fungi.

 

To further improve preventative success for more molds/mildews/bacteria/viruses/fungi, consider adding in organic Norwegian sea kelp at very low levels (5-10ml per gallon). Be careful as adding kelp may burn some plants if used to heavy, or if kelp is from a poor source.

 

If your nozzle clogs, remove the nozzle and place it into hot soapy water for a few minutes and rinse. Repeat as needed.

 

If your spray line clogs, remove and use same method as if your nozzle clogged.

 

As a last resort for clogged sprayer lines/nozzles, hot water alone can be added into the sprayer and then pump the sprayer to a high pressure and attempt to free the clog or jam. Caution should be used when doing this as if your sprayer is not equipped with a safety valve it could potentially explode. So use caution.

 

One last note on neem/azamax and its use as a systemic. Yes it works, but the cost is to your patients welfare. The active ingredients of neem oil and azamax are drawn into the plant tissues where the plant serves to protect them from oxidation and degradation that spraying allows. Neem is considered "relatively safe" however, like any substance certain people with weakened or suseptible immune systems can have some very bad effects. The worst probably being early fetal termination or birth defects. If say, all your patients aren't pregnant or immuno-deficient then have at it, but I wouldn't risk it. Also, if you are trying to maintain microbial life in your soil and use neem as a systemic, you will effectively kill all trichoderma/mycorhizae/bacteria by allowing it to soak down past the top 1 inch of your soil. Its a broad spectrum fungicide, and insecticide, so that mean beneficial soil fleas/fungus gnats/nematodes are also killed.

 

Some patients (my self included) have also seen distinct off flavors present in strains grown with a neem systemic treatment, versus their sister counter parts without the systemic and only the spray.

 

Now before someone jumps in and says "well it drips on the soil when you spray them", if you are growing organically take a spare piece of black/white poly or a thick trash bag and cover the surface of the soil before you spray.

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