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Rso, Qwiso, Qwet, And Naturally Decarbed Sap-Tincture, Concentrates, And Other Essential Plant Oils - By: Grow Goddess

GrowGoddess

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This entry is a copy from my Journal at Roll it Up, How I Make RSO. Currently, the site is unavailable. I had made a copy just in case, and I am very glad that I did.

Since the software update on this website, many of the images in this blog entry have been lost. You can view the complete content of this blog and more here: http://cchub.org/Blogs/blogs.html 

 

I would like to share my experience in the hopes that it is helpful to anyone in the community.

 

How I make RSO (Concentrated Cannabis Oil) for medicinal use and more

 

I use my best buds period. I manicure them very well. If you desire to use sugar shake to include with the buds, that is okay too, but I don't recommend using a lot of it. If you do desire to use some sugar shake, put it in its own jar.

 

First I get the buds to be as dry as possible, basically petrified.

 

I put two ounces of bud in a one quart, wide mouth canning jar; I do not recommend more than two ounces per jar. You may have to smoosh it in a little depending on the strain since some strains are puffier than others.

 

I put each two ounce jar of buds in the freezer for at least 24 hours, preferably 48.

I also put the 99% isopropyl alcohol (solvent) in the freezer to keep the temperatures consistent.

 

When I am ready to start the process, I pull one jar of buds and one 16 oz container of solvent out of the freezer at the same time so it will all stay as cold as possible. Each jar will require up to (2) 16 oz bottles of solvent for the initial wash or extraction.

 

I pour the first 16 oz bottle of solvent into the jar with buds, seal the jar and shake it around for a couple of seconds, then if necessary, I will add about 8 more ounces of the solvent. Close the lid and shake it up for about 1 to 3 minutes depending on how quickly the buds crumble. Do the second and third washes (rinse) of the same bud material, I do this for less than one minute, pretty much as fast as possible. Pour in the solvent, quickly shake it, and then pour out into the metal strainer.

 

Then I want to get the solvent poured out of the jar as soon as possible. I use a metal strainer so it will pour through quickly, but catch any large particles. I pour the solvent into a glass or stainless steel bowl. I will repeat the process with this same jar of material with about 8 to 16 ounces of solvent, depending on the strain. I only shake that around for a few seconds, and then quickly pour off solvent using the metal strainer.

 

Before starting on a new jar of buds from the freezer I will filter the THC solvent through a fine metal coffee filter into a fresh bowl.

 

Then I repeat the initial process with the remaining jars of bud in the freezer, one at a time.

I prefer to use the glass canning jars because they stay cold for a long time.

 

When I have all of the THC solvent roughed in, I will then filter it a couple more times using a metal mesh coffee filter, and then a paper coffee filter. I am considering investing into some of those bubble bags. I have tried this without using the paper coffee filters and only using the fine mesh metal coffee filter and I have not noticed a difference as long as I filter it multiple times. I like to let the THC solvent sit in the bowl for a while so all the crud can sink to the bottom. Then I will carefully pour the solvent through the metal mesh coffee filter careful not to allow the sediment to pour out. I have quite a bit of practice at this, but you may prefer to just use the paper coffee filter.

 

I don't really have a basic filtering preference yet, still working on that. The oil is coming out pretty much the same for me whether I use the paper coffee filters or not.

 

After all of the solvent has been filtered, I move to the rice cooker and follow Rick's directions from there.

 

Another tip, when it gets to the coffee cup warmer stage, I like to use a heavy duty metal one cup measuring cup and use a metal spoon to stir the oil around often to keep the heat even throughout. I have learned with this method, if you don't stir it around often the bottom portion becomes thicker than what is on top. Towards the end, to get the final little bit of solvent evaporated out, I like to put some pennies or another type of coin between the cup and the warmer to help eliminate burning of the oil, I will let it sit at that point without stirring. Patience pays off on this.

 

At this point it is pretty much done.

 

I have definitely noticed that the higher the quality of the buds the better the oil comes out.

 

Update-More Experience with my material: After making more batches of oil, I am not using the paper coffee filters anymore. Just my preference, I prefer to get it filtered as fast as possible. I just use the metal reusable coffee filters. I will filter the solvent several times and in between filtering I will allow the dish with the solvent to sit for about 5 or 10 minutes to allow the sediment to settle to the bottom and eliminate it clogging the filter.

I try to let gravity do most of the filtering.

 

It is very important to make no exceptions in many of the processes. Like the solvent. Many people do not have the patience and will not wait to obtain the right equipment or solvent. Impatience leads to waste and an end product that is less than par. The solvent I recommend is either 99% isopropyl alcohol or a safer solvent would be 190 Everclear. At this point in Michigan, you are much better off ordering one of the two online. You can also use any 190 proof grain alcohol, no less than 190 proof or 99% isopropyl alcohol. These are the two solvents I would choose from, they are a bit weaker than others, but in my opinion, much safer than the alternative.

 

Use a coffee mug warmer, no exceptions. One person used a coffee pot warmer plate and his entire batch of oil was destroyed. It looked great but it had zero potency and his starting bud material was very potent.

 

Patience in purging: I have found out time and time again the better the job I do making the oil, the more patient I am. After the oil is completely finished and put into the syringes, it takes anywhere from two to eight weeks before the oil fully decarbs and reaches its fullest potency.

 

I have found during the purging process, after half is purged, put one to two layers of nickels between the coffee mug warmer and the metal cup or pan the oil is in. A lot of gentle stirring is required. Using my frozen extraction methods, I have found that it is a bit more difficult to fully purge. It seems that the cleaner the oil, the more time it takes to purge the solvent. What I like to do is when most is purged out, take it off the warmer, and let it sit overnight. You can put the cup into a baggie after the cup cools down to keep dust out, leave the baggie open so it can ventilate. The key is patience and having all of the space and materials you need before you start. This is not a project you want to start in the evening that is for certain! Put it back onto the warmer after the cooling and ventilation. It may take a bit for it to fully heat back up and bubbling, but when it does, be sure to stir it around often. You may even want to repeat this once or twice more, the cooling and reheating of the oil on the coffee cup warmer. As more solvent is purged out, the bubbles will get smaller. This method of purging, I believe it helps with preserving the medicinal values of the product, especially the CBDs or at least many of them. The gentler you are, the longer it may take for the oil to fully decarb. I have found it to be worth the time. From now on, after getting the oil into the syringes, I am waiting 8 weeks for the oil to fully decarb. There is nothing wrong with sampling the oil on the spot and start using it if you have to. I just feel it is a bit wasteful THC wise because it has not reached its fullest potency.

 

Here is a link to my entire experience with the Simpson oil http://boards.cannabis.com/concentra...mpson-oil.html

 

Rick Simpson Oil, RSO, does it all for me now. There is no need for smoking bud if you have RSO, especially quality RSO made with good buds. Here is a link to my RSO Vaping experience blog at MMMA. I have other blogs here you may also find useful. http://michiganmedicalmarijuana.org/...#commentsStart

 

E Cannabis Oil

 

Most importantly, be safe when making the oil. Make sure you do the rice cooker part outside, well ventilated, with a fan blowing the fumes away. I like to use one of those metal splatter screens for cooking so bugs and dust do not get into the cooker. I only recommend a rice cooker.

 

I made two separate batches using the same bud material. The first quick wash is the lighter colored oil on the left, which is higher quality oil. Then I washed the material again with a longer soak time, which produced darker oil on the right.

 

I put a flashlight behind the syringes to show the color difference and how transparent the oil is.

After doing this multiple times, I prefer to do two quick washes for my highest quality oil, then a completely separate for a lower quality oil.

 

 

2013 03190064

2013 03190056

 

When treating cancer, I would recommend doing all three washes for the same oil. I only did this for experimental purposes. Three quick washes out of the same material is just fine for treating an illness, that is what I would recommend. For making e-cannabis oil, I recommend only using the first two washes because the taste is just so good.

 

Here are links to the items I frequently hear that people cannot find. It is very important to use the right supplies.

 

Rice Cooker: http://www.amazon.com/Aroma-Arc-743-...1019800&sr=1-2

 

Coffee Mug Warmer: http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Coffee-MWBL...fee+cup+warmer

 

Splatter Screen: http://www.amazon.com/Norpro-2060-13...1026663&sr=1-1

 

Syringes: 1CC=1mL=1 gram that is the way I see it.

10mL: http://www.vetdepot.com/oral-medicat...-monoject.html

 

1mL: http://www.amazon.com/Becton-Dickins.../dp/B0013Y6JK2

 

99% Isopropyl Alcohol: http://first-aid-product.com/isopropyl-alcohol-99-16-oz-1-each.html

 

190 proof alcohol: Safe to drink, as long as you don’t drink too much! This is grain alcohol and even grape alcohol, a good safe alternative to using the 99% isopropyl alcohol. I haven’t tried it yet, but plan to. http://organicalcohol.com/store/

 

190 proof Everclear: http://www.winechateau.com/sku1004372_EVERCLEAR-GRAIN-ALCOHOL-190@-1.00L

 

192 proof Polish Vodka: http://www.winechateau.com/sku1173618_POLMOS-SPIRYTUS-REK-LIQUEUR-750ML-750ML

UPDATE: for a more safe solvent I prefer using 200 proof ethanol (KleenXtract) I really like this product and prefer it over grain alcohol. http://www.kleenxtract.com/our-products/The only downside using the more safe alcohol, some strains can become putty. If that happens, dilute it and filter through paper coffee filters and in future batches avoid that strain when using grain alcohol.

About three years ago, maybe a little more I saw that Rick Simpson video Run From the Cure. I had been growing high quality for over a decade before seeing the video. I didn't really believe the video that the oil was as potent as was claimed. That is what peaked my interest at that time.

 

I didn't believe or put much thought into it killing cancer. I just took that as BS. So I made the oil, I had the extra buds, no big deal. Then I took a dose just like the video recommended and I could not believe how potent it was. I had never saw or had anything like it coming from cannabis.

 

At the time I was running a Compassion Club. I knew of a cancer patient that would come to the meetings. After seeing how potent the oil was, I thought that maybe the claims in the video were true and the oil can kill cancer. The patient had been battling his cancer for about 10 years at that time. The doctors wanted him to go through yet another round of chemo and possibly radiation too. He wanted an alternative to those options.

 

I asked him if he wanted to give the oil a try. He said absolutely yes. Everything the medical system had tried to that point had failed. So we used the treatment regimen as described in the video. I used my best buds from my crop. Six months of treatment, he went back to the doctor for a checkup. They could not find any cancer. The giant tumor on his chest was completely gone. They ran blood work and a scan. He was confirmed cancer free.

 

It has been a good two years almost three since. He takes small maintenance doses. He is cancer free and has been enjoying life now with his family not having to spend the holidays in the hospital getting another two to three months of treatments.

 

2015 UPDATE: It is going on 5 years now with my first cancer patient. He is doing great! He takes small maintenance doses daily to keep the cancer from returning. My second cancer patient is also doing great! He is also taking maintenance doses. It is over 2 years now and still cancer free. He defied the doctors who said he would not make it past the first Christmas since the diagnosis. They are both living life to the fullest without the doctor's recommendations of modern treatments.

 

I couldn't believe it. I really did not expect it to work. Many others could not believe it either. Whether it was the oil or a strong faith in God, it is the truth, the man had confirmed tumors in a scan, took the oil for 6 months at one gram per day, and a new scan showed no signs of cancer.

 

Then, I treated another patient, for free. I wanted to double check and see if it would work twice in a row. This man was told he would surly die by the next Christmas if he did not receive the recommended chemo and radiation. They repeatedly told him that just an operation would not work. They guaranteed him that his suffering would be far worse with just an operation. I treated this person with the oil. He took a large amount of the oil, but still opted for the surgery to remove the tumor and tonsils, which was the source of the cancer. He is cancer free. Currently only two months away from the “next Christmas” It has been almost ten months now. The surgeon told the patient to not bother coming back for a scan for at least 1 year, confident that the cancer is gone. He is doing great, making his own oil, and taking his maintenance doses. Two grain of rice size doses per day. The doctors were completely wrong. I am 100% confident he will make it to Christmas and beyond, healthier than he has been in years. The oil must work; it appears that way with my experience. Because of RSO, this man has fully dodged chemo and radiation. If it were not for the RSO, I believe the doctors would have been right, the cancer would have spread, and he may not have lived to Christmas 2013. He is even back to work, confident, and happy. To treat this unknown patient for free, I put up an offer at MMMA website forum. Here is a link to that offer (the offer is no longer available). http://michiganmedicalmarijuana.org/...atment-option/

 

This is the video I watched before making RSO (Concentrated Cannabis Oil) Run From the Cure.

 

Don’t get me wrong, I give God the glory for providing us with such a miracle plant.

 

A video of my first patient, he had Hodgkin’s Lymphoma. It has been two years and is still cancer free. He was caught off guard when this video was taken. He has told me many times that he wishes he would have given the credit to God for being cancer free. More than a year later, after treatment, my patient stopped taking his maintenance doses so he could keep his job. I am guessing it was a couple of months. He contacted me and said he thought his cancer was coming back, he also confessed that he stopped taking the oil. I told him to immediately start taking the oil again. He started taking the oil again, soon after made an appointment to get checked out. The lymph nodes that had begun to swell up before the appointment were completely back to normal. They could not find any signs of cancer. The patient has a new respect for taking his maintenance doses. It is now one of the most important things in his life. It has been about a year since. No signs of any cancer returning. He has continued to take his maintenance doses daily.

 

One more thing, this is a warning really. I strongly recommend making your own oil. Whether you grow your own buds or buy them, preferably grown organic. The odds of getting quality oil are very low. There are so many scams out there. It is so easy to scam people when it comes to making oil. You can make oil from all of the garbage from the plants, stems, leaves, etc. It is not the oil you need to treat serious illness. Much of the oil that is available on the streets or at dispensaries may not have been purged correctly. What solvent was used? That is very important; they could have used pure poison and not known it. Best to make it yourself, at least then you know what was used to make it. If you can make a cake or bake cookies, then you can make the oil.

 

I plan to put up some additional important information to my vaporizing blog (link above) soon, like results from winterizing top grade oil, for vaporizing only. Also, QWISO hash and how it works with the vaporizers that I show on the blog. QWISO is basically non-decarbed RSO, very similar to BHO, or even bubble hash.

 

Can't wait to get the results in and posted to the blog.

 

QWISO hash works great for e-cannabis and vaporizing it straight. I will add more in the future. I posted this blog up because my journal at Roll it Up is currently unavailable.

 

I hope this information is helpful.

 

Peace, and God bless.

 

Here is a link to my vaporizing blog http://michiganmedicalmarijuana.org/blog/532/entry-1026-my-experience-with-portable-vaporizers-pen-vaporizers-for-concentrated-cannabis-oil-and-e-cigarette-oil/#commentsStart

 

I didn't get the entire RIU journal copied. When I get to it I will add more information here on making QWISO hash with pictures.

 

Find me on FaceBook. I have been able to connect with Rick Simpson as well as many cancer patients, advocates, and oil makers. https://www.facebook.com/growgoddess.michigan



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Well, RIU is back online but the journals are not back up yet.

 

So, since I can't go back and copy from where I left off here, I will just put up something new here.

 

Here are some recent QWISO extractions. From now on my strain comparisons are strictly based on extractions. I no longer believe in smoking. For one thing I believe it destroys most of the medicine. Next best thing is vaporizing. I don't compare it to the medicinal value of ingesting RSO, but I think of it as a great medicinal advantage over smoking bud. To be straight up honest, I highly prefer and far more enjoy vaporizing concentrates vs. smoking anything.

 

With this QWISO I just let it fan dry. I preformed the same extraction method as I do with RSO, which is the frozen method. I used 99% isopropyl alcohol for the initial extractions.

 

Here are some pictures of the oil before I winterized. I winterized the oil later with 192 proof grain alcohol.

QWISO 4 different strains 3 29 14 022

QWISO 4 diff strains 3 29 14 019

 
4-G, you can see the grain of the table underneath. It has a lot of clarity to it. It is a wild strain from bag seed. It is the only oil that I have tried that offers a straight up ganja premium green taste. A powerful ganja taste.

QWISO evap transparent See table 3 29 14 030

4 G QWISO sample ready To winterize 3 29 14 050

 

 
This is Querkle. A pinkish tint, she is a keeper. Space Queen dominant Querkle. I have a blog here of my Querkle with pictures.

QWISO In pyrex clear with pinkish tint 3 29 14 035

Querkle QWISO touch of pink 3 29 14 045

 

SBC Indica QWISO 99 Iso 3 29 14 051

Qush QWISO sample ready To winterize 3 29 14 047

 

 

Here is one picture of one of the strains after winterizing with 192 proof polish vodka

QWISO hash winterized 4 2 14 020

 
A few more pictures after winterizing. 

QWISO Winterized 4 2 14 032

QWISO 4 2 14 016

QWISO 4 2 14 013

QWISO Winterized 4 2 14 033

 

This QWISO is incredible vaporizing! Winterized and really cleaned up, it is really worth it.

 

Here is all 4 strains mixed in my AeroTank.

QWISO winterized 4 strains mixed 4 2 14 036

 
I used the very best of each strain. All I see in my flower room now is oil!

 

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New discovery!

 

May be better than RSO, not confirmed yet, but sure seems to be the whoop.

 

The batch of QWISO hash I have been vaping is about three months old now. This QWISO has not seen any heat. I have been ingesting a small dose about once every two weeks just to see if it would naturally decarb. Now that it has been just about three months, I ate a dose and I got baked! Kind of over baked actually. The buzz was different than RSO. This may be a better medicinal choice. No heat required, no tools required. I will be discussing more about this soon.

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Well day three of eating the winterized QWISO that has naturally decarbed:

It was winterized with 192 proof vodka.

After winterizing it removed all of the flavanoids and probably other good things. For a medicinal oil, I do not recommend winterizing.

The potency is right up there compared to RSO. I don't even know what I would call this oil really. I guess maybe ND SAP? Naturally Decarbed and SAP, that fits well because to maintain the medicinal properties of the oil it will have to stay at a consistency of runny or thick sap depending on the solvent and strains. Really  I think I prefer 190 proof or higher organic or grain alcohol. Then you don't have to be so concerned with the product being fully purged and also keep it at a sap state. Then you will know for sure that all of the terpines and CBDs are in the oil. I am starting to believe that this is very important. Adding any heat that takes it above 100 degrees F can potentially degrade the product by evaporating all of the turpines and possibly some CBDs. With RSO, there are no terpines and much of the CBDs have been destroyed or lost in my opinion. Another great thing with this SAP that naturally decarbs is it will not require large amounts of marijuana to make a batch. This is great for people that just don't have the funds available to go out and get 1/4 pound of buds to make a batch of RSO. Also, it may not be possible. Like a non resident in CO is only allowed 1/4 ounce per day. With this SAP you can get by and make your oil. The biggest inconvenience is the three month wait for it to decarb. Maybe a little less time, but also it could require a bit more time. For someone in a situation where they need the usable oil now, they can make a batch of some QWET SAP and date it, put away some for the three month decarbing. Take what you need to decarb and do so by heating the oil using a double boiler, stove top, lighter and a spoon, or even a rice cooker, there are many possibilities. Keeping in mind the alcohol has already been evaporated out. The SAP is being stored in syringes. You can always squirt a little into a small frying pan, add a little bit of alcohol, turn up the heat a little (no higher than medium) until the alcohol bubbles out. Let it cool and eat it. The longer you wait, the more it will decarb. Like when I make a batch of RSO, it doesn't seem to be really decarbed until the next day.

 

Basically what I am saying here is RSO is looking obsolete to me compared to this naturally decarbed oil I have discovered. I wish I had testing and proof, but keep in mind, testing does not cover all of the medicinal aspects.

 

The buzz seems noticeably different but just as intense as RSO. I think I may like it better. It kind of seems like a cleaner buzz. All three doses I have taken, I could feel the effects for 24 hours. With my RSO and the same size doses, I think I usually feel the effects for more like 18 hours, but I am not 100% confident on that. The length of time may be the same. What is kind of unique here is I have been growing these same strains for many years as well as producing the oil from the same strains for many years. So when there is some form of difference with my oil or one of my strains, I will notice it right away.

 

Going by my first impression, this is the oil I will be taking from now on. I can't wait to make my next batch of QWET and naturally decarb it. Basically all organic with absolutely no heat and potentially all of the medicinal values of the marijuana buds.

 

No need to worry about going outside with the rice cooker. Don't have to be concerned with blowing yourself up, well not as concerned, it still can be dangerous. Just blowing the fumes outside with a fan seems a lot safer to me than boiling it with a rice cooker.

 

When you get done harvesting your plants you don't throw them in the oven to dry them out and use right away right? Right, because it will cause damage and degrade the medicine. Well, I am starting to feel the same way about oil. Trying to decarb it early with heat, you are ruining the potential of your medicine. Now that I know that the oil can decarb by itself and come out great, it gives me comfort to know that many more patients will be able to treat themselves. They can start off with smaller amounts until they get confidence. Yes, there will be a waiting perriod for the product to be ready. Small batches can be made weekly, dated, and stored until time to use. Patience pays off.

 

I will follow up after taking more doses. My first impression could change.

 

I will also discuss later on how I keep it in SAP form and use grain alcohol.

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gg, another great discovery by the goddess of oil! I've read your RSO blog et al, but as you've experimented and changed steps here and there, would you mind doing us all a favor and do a brief recap of exactly your method for the no- heat QWISO SAP?

 

I for one, and I'm sure many others, would greatly appreciate it.

 

Thanks!

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A walk through on how I make my naturally decarbed oil-sap.

 

This is the method I have used. I am sure there are others who have their preferences. A video would probably be more helpful, but for now, this is what I can offer.

 

First, one ounce of bone dry buds, the best you can get. Preferably a couple of strains mixed. I like to use indica dominant strains.

 

Place the ounce of bone dry buds into a 1 pint canning jar, seal the jar and place in the freezer.

 

Place the solvent (190 proof or higher grain alcohol (you can use 99% iso but you want to be sure it is all purged out)) into the freezer with the buds. 1 fifth should be plenty. This is to ensure that the solvent and buds are at the same temperature.

I do not recommend using 99% iso for a solvent.

 

Keep the buds and solvent in the freezer for at least 48 to 72 hours. Longer is okay.

 

Quickly pour the solvent into the jar of buds to about half way. Put the lid back onto the jar and shake. The buds should just crumble. After the buds are crumbled, usually less than a minute as long as the buds are dry enough. If needed, add a bit more solvent.

 

Quickly pour off the solvent through a wire mesh strainer into a bowl. Try to keep the strainer as close to the jar as possible so the bud material does not leave the jar. This will help eliminate any bud material from getting into the solvent.

 

Put any bud material that remained in the strainer back into the jar and repeat the process two more times. That gives you a total of three rinses. The second and third are done more quickly and less solvent is required, just enough to soak the material.

 

Now you have a bowl filled with solvent and cannabis extract. The next steps are filtering. I like to let gravity do most of the filtering for me. Allow the bowl to sit and let the sediment settle to the bottom.

 

Gently pour the solvent through a reusable metal mesh coffee filter (a paper coffee filter can be used if you don’t have a reusable one).  Be sure to try to let the sediment remain in the bowl without going into the coffee filter. I like to do this a couple of times using 2 bowls, each time allowing sediment to settle to the bottom, 15 minutes up to an hour depending on your preference.

 

After you feel that the solvent mixture is nice and clean and all of the sediment has been removed, it is time to transfer into a pyrex baking dish.

 

Put the dish in a safe, well ventilated area, near an open window with a fan blowing across it. Use no heat; only use the fan to assist in the evaporation of the solvent.

 

As the solvent evaporates, you will notice that some white foam is starting to build up. That is water from the solvent (alcohol).  I don’t allow the concentrate to dry all the way. I like to add a little more solvent (alcohol) in before the concentrate dries. It should be sappy at this point, but some water spots. So, I add a small amount of alcohol into the pyrex baking dish and stir it around. Then I will transfer the mixture into a one cup heavy duty metal measuring cup (it will not fill the cup). At this point, I will let a fan blow over the cup to help a majority of the alcohol to evaporate off. I am accustomed to doing large quantities. For smaller quantities you will probably want to put a coin under one side of the cup so the oil will lightly puddle to one end. This part of the process will require occasional stirring, using a toothpick will be adequate, to assist in the evaporation. The quantity will dictate how much stirring is required. Once a day, twice per day, it depends on how much is in the cup. Smaller quantities may get to the desired sap state in one day. The larger the quantity the longer it will take. You must also take into account the air humidity.

 

Put a coffee filter over the cup secured with a rubber band. This keeps the dust out. Place the cup in a dark well ventilated area. Let it sit and naturally evaporate until it is like a thick sap. You may have to stir it a couple of times to aid in the evaporation. This may take a week or so. The goal is to avoid heat to keep all of the medicinal properties in the oil.

 

When you believe the solvent has evaporated and the concentrate is a thick sap, it is time to get it into syringes for storage. This is a process that may require very minimal heat to allow the oil to flow better into the syringe. The best way for this minimal heat that I know of is to use a seedling heating mat with a thermostat so you do not exceed 100 degrees F. Update: I did a couple of sample runs and it was too thick to suck up into my syringes without exceeding 100-110 degrees F. A solution to this problem, especially with 99% iso, this is one of the main reasons why I don't recommend using iso. I prefer no heat whatsoever. What I had to do is suck it up into a syringe before it was fully purged. Then I injected it into a 4 gram vial. I will allow it to finish naturally purging in the vial. This is the only way I can see being able to use iso in the process. You can't really add grain alcohol to it to think it up because it will clump up and make your oil look crappy. I am starting to like a little bit of grain alcohol left behind because the oil dissolves on my tongue instantly and the medicated feeling hits me faster. So again, even with grain alcohol, if you want it fully purged, you will most likely need to use a syringe as a tool to get the more liquid oil into a small vial since it will eventually be too thick to suck it up into the syringe without exceeding the 110 Degree F limit for the terpines. This is what I am going to do for now on. I am not going to worry about it finishing purging in the vial because I am going to use organic or grain alcohol. I am really liking the idea of using the dropper for dosing.

 

Once the oil is in the syringes, store them in a dark area at room temperature. Be sure to mark the date on the syringes. Keep them stored for at least 90 days. Some may require 100 days. For this naturally decarbing oil, I don't recommend storing it in syringes. I recommend the vials or droppers that I posted links to below.

 

Then you should have the best oil that you can make for medicinal use.

 

Here are a couple of tips:

 

Grain alcohol or organic alcohol is what I prefer and recommend as long as it is 190 proof or higher.  Here is why.

 

  1. It is safer period. It is safer when it comes to consumption. It is safer in regards to potentially breathing any fumes when evaporating. It does not stink up the room or even house like isopropyl alcohol can. It is less flammable.
  2. You can intentionally leave a little bit of the grain alcohol in the oil-sap. If that is the case, that you choose to leave some alcohol in the oil-sap, you do not want to store the oil in syringes. The remaining alcohol can expand and cause the syringes to leak. What you would want to use is a small bottle with a dropper. Preferably brown glass with a glass dropper. You can also use small vials to store the oil in whether or not you leave alcohol in the oil. If you choose to leave some alcohol in the oil-sap then I would allow it to be a consistency of warm oil, a little runny. This may be the best choice. I have not tried it yet, but I will next time. Using the dropper you can be more precise with the doses. With a touch of alcohol left it will pretty much dissolve on your tongue.

Regarding the information I posted in blue above, it is not necessary to purchase the heating pad and thermostat. With most of my strains I had to heat the oil too hot to get it to go into the syringes if I let the solvent evaporate completely. The heating pad and thermostat are nice items to have though. It is best to avoid any heat if you wish to keep all of the medicinal properties. REMINDER: Leaving any alcohol in the concentrate while stored in syringes will most likely cause expansion and leak. I recommend to store in vials or droppers. Vials for fully purged, droppers for if you decide to leave some grain alcohol in the concentrate.

 

So far at this point I have only done this once so I am speaking what I know at this time. I will do it many more times and add more information as it becomes available. To clarify: I have done this once, but not exactly intentionally. I will however be doing it intentionally as soon as possible.

 

As far as quantities, you can do as little or as much as you desire, starting with ¼ ounce of buds or ¼ pound. When doing larger quantities of course you would need to adjust the materials used to accommodate the quantity you plan on making. Smaller quantities are safer in my opinion due to the fumes involved when evaporating the solvent (alcohol).

 

Sometimes I like to keep my oil in vials. I will just use a toothpick to get my dose if the oil is thick.

 

Here are links for the dropper bottles, vials, and other items I have mentioned.

 

4 Dram Amber Glass Vial with Dropper: http://www.premiumvials.com/4-dram-amber-glass-vial-w-dropper.html?___store=default&gclid=CjwKEAjw0a2eBRDVrabv9vWJ90USJACsKRDH0v2Rh_kawpzYtpIHptlzSXMK1P8ssJNtZZEJhqvAsxoCR_3w_wcB

Roughly 12-14 mL will fit into this bottle. There is a minimum purchase of 12, but they are $0.69 each. I will have to order some.

 

1 Dram Amber Glass Vial with Dropper: http://www.premiumvials.com/glass-vials/1-dram-amber-glass-vial-w-dropper.html

This may be a better choice.

 

Screw Cap Amber Vials:

 

1 dram http://www.premiumvials.com/glass-vials/screw-cap-vials/amber-vials/1-dram-amber-glass-vial-w-cap.html

4 dram http://www.premiumvials.com/glass-vials/screw-cap-vials/amber-vials/4-dram-amber-glass-vial-w-cap.html

You can even go smaller for stealth

5/8 dram http://www.premiumvials.com/glass-vials/screw-cap-vials/amber-vials/5-8-dram-amber-glass-vial-w-cap.html

 

Syringes:

The 10 mL syringes are better for sucking up thicker oils because they are more heavy duty.

 

1 mL: http://www.amazon.com/Becton-Dickinson-Oral-Syringe-With-Clear/dp/B0013Y6JK2

 

10 mL: http://www.vetdepot.com/oral-medication-syringe-10-ml-2-tsp-with-cap-monoject.html

 

 

Metal Mesh Coffee Filter: http://www.amazon.com/Basket-Style-Coffee-Filter-10-12-Cup/dp/B00GPXTA0C/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1405866532&sr=8-3-fkmr0&keywords=Mr.+Coffee+10-12+Cup+Basket+Washable+Coffee+Filter

 

Seedling Heat Mat: I recommend the 10” x 20” http://4hydroponics.com/hf-seedling-heat-mat

 

Thermostat for Heat Mat: http://4hydroponics.com/super-sprouter-thermostat

 

Grain alcohol: http://www.winechateau.com/sku1004372_EVERCLEAR-GRAIN-ALCOHOL-190@-1.00L

 

192 proof polish vodka: http://www.winechateau.com/sku1087157_POLMOS-VODKA-SPIRYTUS-192@-750ML

 

Organic Grain Alcohol: I have not had the luxury to try organic alcohol yet, but I am sure it is great.  http://organicalcohol.com/store/

 

Edited 7/21/14

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Thank you, dear

 

Another question: I've been fortunate to score 14gr of Kief hash. Looking for advice on how best to extract for ingestion. Will this work for the SAP? I was leaning towards making canna caps with coconut oil, but the SAP sounds easier. I could always cap it later, I suppose. Your thoughts/suggestions?

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All I can do is give my opinion on that. I have not handled Kief Hash. Also, I have only done this once so far.

 

Take a small sample of your kief and see if it will dissolve in 190 proof or higher grain alcohol. If it will dissolve without heat (weather or not it dissolves may not matter, not sure) anyway, I would dilute it with the alcohol and run it through a coffee filter. Let it evaporate and see what happens.

 

If it works, you can always put the kief in a small jar with some of the grain alcohol. Shake it up real well as if it were buds. I have seen other people use kief to make RSO because that was all they had. They ended up with a nice oil product. I was not able to sample it, but the color looked real good.

 

You may want to just try one gram. It sucks to have to wait 90 days, but I think it will work.

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Here is some information, and my opinion of what I am trying to do. My goal is to not lose the terpines, and reduce the amount of degradation of the CBD and THC. I believe that with an oil that contains all of these elements and more, can potentially offer more medicinal properties and benefits.

 

In Mel Frank's book, he points out how the THC and CBDs are continuously degrading in the plant, but also being replenished during growth. Obviously, once you cut the plant down, it will only degrade from there. The buds and leaf go through the same degradation. Also, fresh shoots in vegetative stage may offer benefits that may exceed bud in some manners with CBDs and terpenes, I wish I knew.

MelFrank HarvestBuds 7 24 14 031

MelFrank Leaf Degradation 7 24 14 035

 

I am going to try to convert my buds to oil within the first 30 days of harvest. I believe being stored in oil form the degradation drastically slows down to where it may take years for the medicine to degrade.

 

I don't want my THC, CBDs, terpines, and all of the other medicinal goodies to be sitting in a jar filled with air and decaying plant matter. I know it is a bit extreme putting it that way, but I believe it holds truth.

 

Here is an example of why I am believing that the terpines can be so valuable, especially for cancer, or just living in today's society, it is very polluted. This may be some of the best protection that we have. I want these things in my oil. Going by what I have read, that all of the terpines will evaporate off at around 110 degrees F.

 

Terpenoid Education

 

 

Here is a link to where you can get other plant terpines. It is in an e-cigarette form with no nicotine. You can just vape it and get the terpines that way.  http://holismokes.com/

 

I am more interested in the cannabis terpines, especially preserving them in my concentrated ND sap.

 

As soon as my sap experiment has been completed. I will report back on how it compares to my RSO. I have been working with the same strains for year. This should be quite interesting.

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I must add to my blog that I am very baked right now!!  I am having problems eating a full drop per day of this oil.

 

I decided to dilute it a little bit with some NF Organic flavoring. Just my sample vial with the glass dropper. That only has about 2 grams of oil in it.

 

It is awesome that the NF Organic flavoring blends right in with the oil, whether it is the ND Sap or the RSO. I am liking the sap better.

 

I received my vials and they are really cool too! The 1 dram vials have a smaller glass dropper than the 2 dram vials, quite a difference between them. I filled 2 of my 2 dram vials, without droppers, to the top with the RSO I had left for storage. The vials are amber colored. The 1 dram vial fits right onto an Eclpse Vape too. Works the same as the OEM vials. Did not break or crack either.

 

Anyway, one or 2 drops of my ND Sap with the 1 dram vial with the small glass dropper, is more than enough for me. It is really convenient too, whether you want to convert it to e-cannabis, apply to wounds, take it orally, or simply add some to a paper. I am really liking it, it seems more convenient and sanitary too with more options vs. a syringe.

 

The 1 and 2 dram vials that come with a dropper will also accept the plain cap.

 

When I purchased the 1 dram replacement OEM vials for my Eclipse Vape it seemed like half of them arrived with small chips on the rim. These new vials all arrived in premium condition. Not a single chip or crack on them. I will get these from now on.

 

Filling the 2 dram vials with RSO. The RSO is over a year old and the quality does not appear to be any different than when I first made it. Keeping in mind the syringes were stored in a sealed jar in a dark place.

RSO nearly 2 years Old 7 28 14 027

RSO full 4 dram vials 7 28 14 029

 

Here are all the vials. They range in size from 5/8 dram, 1 dram, 2 dram, and 4 dram.

Multiple size vials For concentrates 7 28 14 011

Multi size vials For concentrates 7 28 14 012

 

I purchased the vials from Specialty Bottle: http://www.specialtybottle.com/glassvialsmi.aspx

 

ND Sap in a green 1 dram vial with a small glass dropper

ND Sap 7 28 14 023

ND Sap 7 28 14 022

 

I am really getting to like these safer products. NF approved is far safer than just USP. Organic and these safer products are better for long term use.

Safe Products 7 28 14 038

 

here are some buds that I just may do some test runs with. I will for sure be doing test runs with the 4-G strain for the ND Sap. It will take 90 days or longer before I can report the results on it though. I will keep checking it to narrow down when exactly the change takes place. The 4-G pictured is freshly cut, and freshly dried.

 

Space Dawg

Space Dawg 7 16 14 008

 
4-G

4G 7 24 14 010

4G 7 16 14 010

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All I can do is give my opinion on that. I have not handled Kief Hash. Also, I have only done this once so far.

 

Take a small sample of your kief and see if it will dissolve in 190 proof or higher grain alcohol. If it will dissolve without heat (weather or not it dissolves may not matter, not sure) anyway, I would dilute it with the alcohol and run it through a coffee filter. Let it evaporate and see what happens.

 

If it works, you can always put the kief in a small jar with some of the grain alcohol. Shake it up real well as if it were buds. I have seen other people use kief to make RSO because that was all they had. They ended up with a nice oil product. I was not able to sample it, but the color looked real good.

 

You may want to just try one gram. It sucks to have to wait 90 days, but I think it will work.

gg, I gave this a try today.  Here is what I did and the results.  I took 1 gr of the Kief and 2-3 oz. of Everclear 190.  Shook it around and then let it air dry/evaporate.  I can't say that it dissolved the kiev as there was sediment left over, though it did break it down.  (Probably should have tried shaking it longer maybe?) The result is more of a "putty", i.e. wood putty, than a tar.  I've attached a pic, though it doesn't really show what it's like.  I got about tsp of the resulting product.  Now, what to do with it? Eat it? Vape it? Let it sit for 90 days??   What do you suggest from here?

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Thanks for reporting back, it is really interesting. Kind of surprised it turned to a putty, but I have never really heard any feedback doing what you did.

 

The other people heated it up in a rice cooker when the alcohol was added, then purged it in a purge pan on a coffee mug warmer. I see that yours is the same color as theirs.

 

Since you didn't use any heat, try my new method. That would be storing it sealed for 3 or 4 months then try to eat a small amount and see. Check at 3 months then again at 4 months, unless you are fully satisfied at 3 months.

 

Please report back. I believe the no heat method could be potentially far superior when it comes to medicine.

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Hello,  I had made some bho for consumption to treat my chronic nerve pain i have suffered from for 8 years.. After 4 day's of taking the oil my pain has melted away, Now my problem is that i used a vacuum chamber that i no longer have and i am out of oil, I have a couple of ounces to prossess ASAP but don't know the best way for me to do this.. Any advice would be greatly appreatiated. 

 

thanks

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I would have to say make RSO or my ND Sap if you have the time to wait, three to four months for the ND Sap to decarb.

 

I have not had an oil product yet that compares to my ND Sap.

 

Diet can make a big difference too. I am not saying change your diet, but, I am saying add a few things to your diet. Cold pressed unrefiend Hemp Seed oil (best in chocolate protein drinks). Virgin unrefined coconut oil, great on toast instead of butter, even on your vegetables like corn. Also, a few roasted sea salt almonds each day.

 

If I am in serious pain and still supplementing with those things and need more relief, I just take an extra dose or two of RSO or ND Sap and I will be so baked and confused the pain is not an issue anymore.

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gg, here's an update on medicating with my recently made RSO. Last night I filled the larger half of a 00 size gelcap to about ¾ full. Whoa! If there was any doubt as to its potency - forget it! Totally baked! Within 2 hours my legs were so rubbery I wasn't sure I could make it up the stairs to go to bed! I did make it and slept like a rock!

 

The dosage was too much, however. There was a moment or two when I had to talk myself out of thinking that I was about to od. On the edge of paranoia and all that, but I was able to keep my wits about me.

 

So, the next dosage will be a bit smaller.

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Good job! Can you imagine how a cancer patient feels taking a gram per day for 3 to 6 months!! By the time they are done it seems like it was all a dream!!

 

Regarding the paranoia and anxiety effects, I have eliminated a lot of that out of my oil. I have noticed doing quick frozen rinses made a big difference. Being super gentle with the decarbing also, so you don't get any CBN. Just my opinion, CBN mixed with high THC can cause some negative effects with your buzz. I will gently purge it on the coffee mug warmer and well before it is totally done, I will remove it from the heat and let it air evaporate with a coffee filter over the top to keep dust out. Doing it this way does require some natural decarbing time. I have found between 2 and 8 weeks it will all of a sudden seem to double in potency.

 

With the SAP, since there is no heat at all, it will take 3 to 4 months to naturally decarb. I can't believe how much more potent the SAP is. I was only taking 1 to 2 drops per day for maintenance. I stopped taking the oil to see how long the effects really last because it seemed to be exceeding 24 hours. It has exceeded 48 hours and I still feel it a little bit. Like taking a hit or two from a joint. RSO would not have stayed in my that long, taking that small of a dose. This was after taking it every day for a couple of weeks. Once a day, and only 1 or 2 drops.

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Here is a link to a very interesting write up called Chemical Constituents of Cannabis. Over 60 CBDs, terpines, monoterpines, flavanoids. I am sure a lot of the medicinal properties of the marijuana plant are lost with any heating processes. I am sure some also get lost with winterizing. Unfortunately, some, like the scent of the mj, are water soluble and are not extracted with the oil. there are ways to retrieve many of these components with steam and such, I surely want to look into it. These compounds, or medicinal properties, I believe are why I notice such a difference between RSO, which is heated, and the naturally decarbed SAP, where no heat is used. The SAP seems more potent and better.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CCQQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.medicinalgenomics.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2011%2F12%2FChemical-constituents-of-cannabis.pdf&ei=lVvhU8jRKIr58AH464FQ&usg=AFQjCNE_4OJ8X9afPELGOTw3fKwovbFc0Q&sig2=bQt1mmV7kfVGmQQ45BOVNA&bvm=bv.72197243,d.b2U&cad=rja

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Ouch!

 

I just got done doing an extraction with my 4-G so I could make some ND Sap and I got screwed! I do not see myself ever using 190 Everclear again, I also find it difficult to ever order anything from Wine Chateau again.

 

I will be ordering 192 proof polish vodka from this store now: Malloy's Finest Wine & Spirits http://www.malloysfinest.com/main.asp?request=SEARCH&search=polmos

They don't even have 190 Everclear.

 

I sent the following to both Wine Chateau and Luxco Inc. (The Everclear bottling company). Of course I had to stretch the truth a bit of what I was using it for, but we all know here what it was for. :)

 

I just sent this letter to Wine Chateau, who I purchased a bottle of 190 Everclear from. It was not my first purchase, but it is my first complaint. Same applies to you as Wine Chateau, I want to hear your side of the story. I have no interest in your money or in suing anyone. I want to know what to tell my followers. I would appreciate a quick response because my patience is wearing thin.

 

"I just recently used the 190 proof Everlcear that I ordered in April of this year. It was not 190 proof at all. It would not flame like it should have. It lit, but only burned half and would not relight. I was even able to drink a shot without any burning of the mouth and throat. This stuff was like half watered down and extremely sweet. I would find it very difficult to believe it was more than 100 proof. It did not taste like any Everclear I have ever had.

I saved this bottle to use in a recipe for an annual family reunion. It ruined my dish, and complete embarrassed me in front of my family,. I would say there was about $500 in damages in the food, including the alcohol.

I would like to make something crystal clear. I don't give a darn about the $500 in loss. The stress and embarrassment, well, there is not enough money to make up for that. I don't want any money. What I would like is to know who is responsible, you or Everclear (Luxco, Inc.). 

I have thousands of followers on my blogs and forum posts. I am in to healthy living and healthy cooking. Just one of my posts has 168,000 views currently. I have links to your company all over. I just took 2 days off from work so I can go through and remove them. By no means would I wish to lead my followers to bad products. Still, who am I to put the blame on, Wine Chateau or Luxco, Inc.? Unless I know for sure who did this, and caused the great embarrassment and stress, I will have to tell my followers to avoid both.

Even if this is just an issue with the bottling company, how could I confidently order anything from you again? I can't go through that kind of stress in my life, and I wish that upon nobody.

I would like to hear what you have to say. I will also be contacting Luxco, Inc as well.

I care more about my followers than any companies dirty money. I am disgusted, stressed out, and embarrassed. I want to be able to point my followers in the right direction."

 

If either of the companies reply, I will be more than happy to share with you their response. This is total bull and I got ripped off. I will never use Everclear again, at least not 190 proof.

 

When I get a chance, I will remove the links to Wine Chateau and references to Everclear.

 

Here is the site where I have nearly 168,000 views. I will be posting this information there. I would hate to learn of someone trying to make oil to fight cancer and run into the problem I have. My Experience with Rick Simpson Oil http://boards.cannabis.com/concentrates/

 

With that last liter of 190 Everclear, I don't think oil made from that would be worthy of treating serious illness with.

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Here is the reply from the store:

 

"We apologize for this situation but we are not the bottling co.We are just online retailers.
Was the seal intact when you received the item? Did you notice any unusual empty space in bottle other than the normal ?
 
This is the one of the top selling item in our website. You can see the reviews/comments from customers about in the product description section in our website to verify their claims. Because of  being the highest proof, it is not allowed anymore to ship by air.We can ship only Ground.
 
We have been shipping this all over the US and this is the first time we got complaint about its quality. Many laboratories, or medicine making co. orders from us and never, never had any kind of complaints about it being less proof. Sometimes they have  leakage or breakage issues which is normal.
You may call Luxco and they will let you know  the reason but We must say you must give another try to this item."
 
My reply to them:
 
"I have sent correspondence to Luxco. Whether or not the seal was broken before I used it I cannot say. I ordered it well in advance of needing to use it. I did not pay close attention to that. I have ordered the 190 proof Everclear from you in the past and did not have a problem.

Let me add this, which seems to be a coincidence. The new store that I have recently purchased the Polmos 192 proof vodka from does not carry the 190 proof Everclear. They only carry the 151 proof. Makes me curious. I can't wait to see what response I get from Luxco.

I see that you did not answer my question as to who you get the Everclear from. Is it direct from the bottling plant or from a distributor? 

I also noticed that on the same order, the 192 proof polish vodka is not what was pictured. I was expecting Polmos, but the brand label says Bak's. Have you changed distributors or something? I have no complaints with the polish vodka, but it sure seems fishy that the labels changed at the same time as I received the bad bottle of 190 Everclear.

I will pass your reply along to my readers.

I am not concerned about the past customers and their reviews. My concern is of the current most recent customers."
 
I can't wait to see what Luxco has to say.
 
This here has nothing to do with this conversation, just something we all may want to consider.
 
When I did the burn or fire test with the different alcohols in the pyrex dish, doing comparisons to try to figure out what the supposed Everclear really was, I also lit some 99% iso. I would like to share my results, it concerned me. I know for sure the iso is good, I used it on other extractions and have no complaints. The burn test bothers me. It burned dirty, half blue flame and half yellow flame, that is not good. What bothered me even more is it did leave a large amount of residue behind that did not burn. The 99% iso did not burn nearly as clean as the 192 proof polish vodka. The residue did air evaporate soon after, but still. That gave me the motivation to purchase a few bottles of the 192 proof polish vodka.
 
I have not given up on the 190 proof or higher grain alcohol, preferably the 192 polish vodka.
 
Sad how made in USA has to concern me so much. A lot of my products for my grow room that I paid almost double for, that were made in USA failed over the similar products made in China. I am not putting down American workers at all, Americans are the best. I am an American worker myself. It is just that I have really lost a lot of faith and confidence in American government and businesses, especially big ones.
 
Truth and honesty sure seems to be rare these days.
 
Whether the truth be ugly or beautiful, it should be told.
 
As soon as I receive the half case of 192 proof polish vodka that I ordered from the new store, the ND Sap experiment will continue.

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Looks like I am done dealing with Wine Chateau. They sent me the wrong brand when it came to the polish vodka. They admitted that they do not purchase their products directly from the bottler but use a wholesale distributor, or in other words, middle man. So who knows where the bad Everclear came from? I call it the way I see it, can't help it. The wholesaler is probably trying to push off imitation stuff. The economy has not quite recovered yet and finances are tight.

 

I had brought this to the attention of Wine Chateau as well:

"I also noticed that on the same order, the 192 proof polish vodka is not what was pictured. I was expecting Polmos, but the brand label says Bak's."

 

Here is the response from Wine Chateau.

"We get this item from our state approved wholesaler named Allied Beverages who supplies to us.
 
This is the correct picture Palmos Vodka Spirytus for a long time and we have not changed it recently.We can send you a prepaid return label if you do not want Bak's."
 
I had also received a reply from Luxco (Everclear). Funny how they do not wish to discuss in writing.
"I received your communication through our website.  I have talked to our owner and he would really appreciate it if the two of you could discuss over the phone.  His name is D____ Lux and his cell is XXX-XXX-XXXX"
 
I don't feel comfortable discussing it on the phone I prefer e-mail to have it in writing. I replied back that he is more than welcome to call me.
 
I will report back on any additional correspondence or if Mr. Lux decides to call me.

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Just spoke with one of the owners of Luxco and they are taking the incident very serious. I must give them credit for that. Still, I am not comfortable using the 190 Everclear.

 

They did state that it could be something with them or a distributor. I provided them with the lot number from the bottle so they could begin their investigation.

 

They asked what could they do to make it right. I simply told them they have nothing to offer me except to make them aware and hopefully look into it, and let me know of the outcome of the investigation.

 

If I hear the outcome, I will share it here.

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The Luxco Director of Corporate Research and Development replied back with the following:

 

I had our Quality Control Department pull all the records for this batch, which was produced on January 20th of this year.  We looked at the laboratory records from this batch and everything was fine.  The bottle proof of this production run tested at 190.004 proof.  We also keep a retain sample from each individual batch we produce and it was absolutely fine in terms of aroma and taste.  Each batch also goes through an organoleptic panel comparing the batch sample to a standard in terms of taste and aroma.  This was also found to be fine and comparable to the standard.  We found nothing out the ordinary in any aspect of this run.  Again, we are sorry for your recent experience with Everclear.

 

I will not know 100% if what they have told me is true. If it is true, then the problem lies between the wholesaler or Wine Chateau. It does give me a bit more confidence in the Everclear though. I have never even heard of a problem with Everclear aside from my recent incident with Wine Chateau.

 

The main reason I posted all of this is I would hate to see someone else go through something similar.

 

As soon as i receive my order of the 192 proof polish vodka the testing will resume. Sorry for the delays.

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Back to extracting
 

192 proof Polish Vodka 8 16 14 011

1oz SBC 192 proof solvent 8 16 14 012

 

I have not done many QWET extractions. This is my second time during the summer. This time things went more normal since the alcohol was authentic.

 

SBC QWET Oil purging 8 16 14 019

 

Evaporating off the solvent was more of a problem during the summer due to the humidity. The QWET can be more tricky than doing a QWISO extraction (iso).

 

Here you can see water accumulating in the purge pan while the alcohol is evaporating. It starts around the outer edges. This is normal. There will be quite a bit more water than what is shown here before it is done. When I did the extraction withe the bad Everclear it was not like this, that is why I knew something was not right.

 

SBC QWET Oil purge water 8 16 14 018

 

 

I only did an ounce of Strawberry Cough on this run using the frozen extraction method. I only took pictures of the low grade oil. I ended up with 1.5 grams of low grade oil and 4 grams of premium oil. I poured the premium oil right from the pan into a 1 dram vial, which equals about 4 grams. There wasn't any left to take a picture (oops!). The color of it was different than all of my previous extractions. It came out dirty, but clean as well, I will explain.

 

After air drying in the pyrex dish, this goes for both the low grade and high grade, they looked a little dirty to me so I added more alcohol and filtered it though a paper filter into a purge pan. (Actually I filtered it after putting it into the purge pan because I saw how dirty it was).

 

Here is a picture of the low grade before and after filtering. Just running it through the paper filter cleaned it up more than I thought it would.

 

SBC QWET Low grade 8 16 14 024

SBC QWET Low grade filtered 8 16 14 028

 

When the final batch was almost finished purging, basically just water left on top with some THC, I poured the watery stuff off into another small pan. That has not been counted in my final quantity yet. Looks like it might be pretty good too. Pouring the water off and the extra step of filtering really made a difference on the color and texture of the oil. I think I am really liking it. I usually average around 4 grams of oil per ounce of premium bud. Considering on this run I got 4+ grams, I can't complain.

 

With the low grade oil, I mixed in some PEG400 NF/USP for my vaporizing. Usually I can't use the low grade oil for vaporizing, but in this case it came out pretty clean. Also, adding a few drops of some NF Organic flavoring can make all the difference.

 

Ready for e-cannabis.

SBC QWET 8 16 14 044

SBC QWET Low grade finished 8 16 14 043

SBC QWET 8 16 14 049

 

I will have to do some more QWET extractions. The main goal is to see how long it takes to naturally decarb to get ND Sap.

 

The 4 grams in the 1 dram vial is priceless to me, can't wait to try it out. Looks really unique to me. It will be a nice Thanksgiving treat, especially if it does decarb naturally.

 

I do have some of the 4-G oil that was made with the bad Everclear set aside as well.

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