Spider Mite Extermination

[tricloud]

These products get 'er done. Best to go for the juggler imo. The longer you play the harder they dig in. I've found that 2 treatments of avid are plenty most of he time. I quit blasting after the problem is gone. Usually 4-7 days with 2 treatments of avid. If I have to reach for floromite its probably because i left a big plant or 2 in the veg room.

 

This stuff also works great on the floors and walls.... Death to all mites, control is not an option in my grow......

[Celliach]

On veg plants only: Avid 2 times, floromite 2 times, then forbid 1 time. Re-apply the next batch every 2-5 days depending on temp and humidity. Avid and floromite are ovicides and will wipe out 99% of the eggs if you cover the entire plant top to bottom, both sides of the leaves. Forbid will keep them away from the plants for 3-4 weeks. Like digital nomad mentioned, best to get rid of the big moms and other large plants. Even with potent miticide/ovicide some eggs will always survive. All it takes is one lousy mite and you are screwed. These products are crazy difficult to get but good to keep around for a sudden infestation. You need a farm license or something to buy them last I knew...

 

If you use these kinds of products never spray them on flowers. Make sure you wear protective clothing and follow the directions to a T. I haven't have to use this method in over 2 years but I know it will hammer mites like nothing else i've tried. As far as the flower room, I never spray flowering plants. Make sure the plants are always good and clean before putting them there. If you have mites in the flower room keep it as cool as possible and keep the humidity as high as possible without causing mold or bud rot.

 

You can buy these products over the internet, or on eBay. The DCCC keeps a reserve for their members to use.

[CleanD]

 

 

Tricloud that might be a little overboard. I would think using something like Mighty Wash then Forbid/Floramite and another time with Mighty Wash would work for most. Mighty Wash can even be used in flower if needed.

 

Yeah... That's a lot of commercial grade toxins ans poisons to be handling... Let alone someone out there will get the idea to hit flowering plants w em.

 

These are controlled chemicals... It is supposed to be off limits to everyday people as true safety measures have to utilized... The stuff is toxic... Think increased stilbirth rates and cancer.

 

They are all very serious chems, that can cause health problems. They also gas off for a day, so better not have any kids in that house... For real.

 

If one does use em... Pro's have to take training for proper use, even return entry requirements. Full suits, chem gloves, chem respirators, goggles, rei restrictions... No contact w u'r body in any way... Think gases or tiny droplets even entering u'r eyes. Scary stuff.

 

Did u glow after that treatment program???

[tricloud]

You can buy these products over the internet, or on eBay. The DCCC keeps a reserve for their members to use.

 

Thats awesome DCCC, these are expensive products. I know they used to sell them on eBay but last I knew the stopped allowing it.

[tricloud]

Yeah... That's a lot of commercial grade toxins ans poisons to be handling... Let alone someone out there will get the idea to hit flowering plants w em.

 

These are controlled chemicals... It is supposed to be off limits to everyday people as true safety measures have to utilized... The stuff is toxic... Think increased stilbirth rates and cancer.

 

They are all very serious chems, that can cause health problems. They also gas off for a day, so better not have any kids in that house... For real.

 

If one does use em... Pro's have to take training for proper use, even return entry requirements. Full suits, chem gloves, chem respirators, goggles, rei restrictions... No contact w u'r body in any way... Think gases or tiny droplets even entering u'r eyes. Scary stuff.

 

Did u glow after that treatment program???

 

Nope, I used all the equipment you just mentioned. Oh my grow isn't in my house.......

 

Yeah these are for pro's, or for caregivers who take keeping their patients in constant supply seriously. Playing games with mites is for beginners.....

[CleanD]

Nope, I used all the equipment you just mentioned. Oh my grow isn't in my house.......

 

Yeah these are for pro's, or for caregivers who take keeping their patients in constant supply seriously. Playing games with mites is for beginners.....

 

I'll agree with you there. establishing & running a clean environment is professional-level caregiving... unlike 9/10 gardens out there.

 

just wanted to add the emphasis to the potential harms, as most are rank amateurs when it comes to providing a consistent, clean supply of meds. we'r on the same page bro. peace

[motownbass]

Other choices:

 

I use Azamax, its both a foilar spray and feedant. You spray and feed it to the plant, and its neem oil.

 

I also used bombs, the spray cans that lock open. They contain Pyrithum and dangerous poly butyl ehter stuff - its combustable, flamable, and it can cover everything in a small to medium grow with a sheen of oily chemical. The key is, you need two kinds of bombs - one to attack the mites, the next a few days later to attack the eggs the mites laid as a last ditch defense. Both are greenhouse grade chemicals and can be used safely. Read the instructions. Turn off fans and do when lights will be out for 12 hours. Do not enter the room unprotected for at least 4 hours, or you will get sick.

 

The real key is to screen your plants and do not enter flower stage until you get rid of the mite problem. Smaller plants in veg are easier to soak and find mites - than 4 week flowering plants. Many chemicals can burn the white hair like pistils. Plants that are heavily infested - you might be better off taking a clone/cutting from it and fight the mites on the smaller clone - and surrender the larger plant to the grave..

 

-DN

Very good and I agree with the AZAMAX product. I sprayed that on my plants, and no more spider mites. I also spray every pre-flower right before I put them in the flower room with azamax. Another good idea is to get HOT SHOTS insect killer. They hang in the room, and everything will be dead for up to three months! I do both...and have no issues. You can get the HOT SHOTS at Home Depot for around 8 bucks and there is two to a package.

[motownbass]

I picked up Organicide from Organic Labs about a month ago from Holly Hydro, but they also sell it at Home Depot.

 

$20 for a 16oz bottle of concentrate that mixes with water.

 

Main ingredients are sesame oil and fish oil.

 

I've been using it in veg and its working great, and you can't beat the price!

 

No Spider Mites works great, so does Azamax, but that $100 price point is a real deal breaker in my frugal opinion.

 

You can get a smaller bottle of azamax for about 25 bucks. That stuff goes a long ways too, plus if you are adding fish oil indoors, that attracts gnats. I stand behind using azamax, and proves it works!

[Hangover High]

[Willy]

Monterrey insect garden spray... works awesome,, not toxic, safe for flowers,, plants, organic solution.. try it you might be pleasantly surprised.. havent seen a bug, egg, mite, nothing but a lowly fly that snuck in when the door was open,,,

[mibrains]

last spring i encountered the borg...

 

brought in from a friend on a clone... oops... yeah it happens..

 

so i tried

azamax

mite rid

and something else from our local ace and something recommended on the web from home depot..i forget the label names....

 

all attempts failed with the mites coming back after repeated applications.. they were stronger and more numerous each time... like they would all die.. wait 2 weeks and then BAM right back stronger than the last...

 

the only thing that finally worked for me...

 

and its so simple...

 

hot shots brand no pest strips...

 

2 in flower 2 in veg 1 in living room, laundry room, kitchen, bedroom, and bathroom... but. they get put out on the 15th of the month and they all get put away in a gallon size freezer ziplock bag on the first... this is the secret as i understand it...

its the repeated 2 week cycle that has kept me mite free for over a year now... after what i call a near "loose everything" infestation... webs everywhere... visible critters to the naked eye...

 

the only way i beat them...after repeated applications of the standard dousing formulas was the no pest strips... 2 weeks on 2 weeks off... religiously.

knock on wood...

i hope to never encounter them again in a way that they get a life cycle started in my areas....

 

i treat my whole house...

 

oh

 

and i should mention...

 

i also treat my whole yard now with a generic no flee, ant spider granular stuff that i applied with a garden spreader all over my front sides and back yard....

i also spray all my screens, windows doors and a continuous line of ortho home defense outside my house in a perimeter fashion maybe 3-4 times a year...

spring fall and a couple in the summer...

 

i dont like spiders

i dont like mites

i dont want bugs in my house

i defiantly dont want bugs in my meds

 

lab Dan from Northern labs tested meds from a source using the no pest strips and found no transference from the active ingredients to the dried and cured meds...so i am using the no pest strips until they fail to work for me...

 

again...

knock on wood... over one year and no signs of any outbreaks of any type of infestations.....

 

peace and good luck

[Hangover High]

don't the package of those say not to use in living spaces ?

 

i would not do this in a house with pets. Odors and cemicals can be very strong near the floor.

[mibrains]

i have used this with myself and my pet for over a year...

 

coupled with confirmation of a experienced lab testing meds exposed to a continuous exposure of this active ingredient....

 

i feel very safe.

 

and i should add.. i replace one every other month or so... so they are on a sliding scale for strength... but u can absolutely smell them when i open them and place them...so i advise absolute caution...

[GanjaWarrior]

yes its obvious they put the warning on that stuff to increase sales

[Faygo]

i don't understand why people freak out when they get mites. bomb the room every 2 days for a week then come in use mighty wash or some spider mite kill if you are in veg they are really easy to kill use neem oil. also sulfur burner kills mites. burn every 2 days for 2 hours when lights are off.

[Kingdiamond]

One thing i just realized and its actually stupid of me not to think of it before i use milk crates for plant elevators Ive been fighting the Borg for almost a year now it never occurred to me after spraying azamax over and over and cleaning the floor walls etc to actually flip these milk crates over inside each one was heavy webbing with millions of mites! Needless to say i sprayed the crap out of each crate and will do so again in 6 days.

[The Digital Nomad]

why the extra expense, smell, and bad taste? If you dial in your grow room, keep it clean, and clone your own - you can maintain a mite and PM free room. Happy plants can resist PM and mites - as long as the environment is stable and clean to a point. I always advise new growers to seal their room with plastic on the ceiling, walls, and tarp on the floor - all taped.

 

It has been about 2 years now, I had one mite issue and corrected it - never been back. You can inoculate your plants by feeding it neem oil. It is always a losing battle when you deal with mites in mid to late flower. A good patient will inspect the meds for the tell-tale 'shotgun' effect of the mites feeding on the plant's leaves (they never could trim off enough of the evidence to hide dried mite infested 'meds') Break open a nice thick bud - and notice some tiny black dots? Magnify - its a dead mite!

 

People freak out because it means their harvest can be less than medical grade. If patients see the signs of mites, they can rightfully assume chemicals were used to combat it.

[The Digital Nomad]

Kingdiamond - you bet, I do the same thing! Better yet, I replaced the old crates with store brought new ones (they are a big lighter - cheap $3 at Target) so you can start fresh and not use a nasty old crate you stole from behind Kroger.

[Kingdiamond]

Kingdiamond - you bet, I do the same thing! Better yet, I replaced the old crates with store brought new ones (they are a big lighter - cheap $3 at Target) so you can start fresh and not use a nasty old crate you stole from behind Kroger.

 

Actually thats what they are but from wally world after all that work to find out its as simple as looking in those crates i tell ya lol.

[Kingdiamond]

i don't understand why people freak out when they get mites. bomb the room every 2 days for a week then come in use mighty wash or some spider mite kill if you are in veg they are really easy to kill use neem oil. also sulfur burner kills mites. burn every 2 days for 2 hours when lights are off.

 

Will the sulfer burner stink up my house?

[Faygo]

only if you let it. i wouldn't do it if your not running a sealed room or some way to vent it out very fast after it has done the job. sulfur kills alot of things like aphids,thrips, mites little insects. its best to do it in a seal room with ways of redding the small very fast. a week before flower i sulfur burn every 2 days for 2 hours to kill insects and change the ph level on the leaves to make sure i won't have any PM.

[Kingdiamond]

So you dont do it in the flower stage?

 

Because thats where im having issue eradicating them if i can use this i can undo my filter and exhaust the room outside as the burners in action.

[The Digital Nomad]

I heard it was a tough borg season, perhaps the mild winter didn't help.

 

I try to ask growers to stabilize their grow before going into flower. If you are having issues with mites and PM - hold off flowering. You are better off doing battle when the leaves and plants are smaller. I have dipped a 18" plant in a 5 gallon bucket of water/azamax. You cannot dip a bush or small tree.

In late flower, those buds are going to have too many hiding spots - for mites and chemicals to stick around. Too many growers use chemicals as a maintence tool, and use it on a regular basis, this is not the direction we want our medicine to take.

 

to control pm, you have to control humidity and heat. If you keep the range consistent - 65 to 75 humidity 45- 60 (60 is bad days outside, winter can get as low as 35%)

In a room that is very dense with plants, the problem can be caused by pockets of hot, humid air - so place more circulating fans.

Sprays that contain pyrithium (sp) can be detected by spider mites as an attack and they start laying eggs like crazy, so you have to bomb the room 3 days later to attack the eggs.

[Faygo]

So you dont do it in the flower stage?

 

Because thats where im having issue eradicating them if i can use this i can undo my filter and exhaust the room outside as the burners in action.

 

you can sulfur burn up to week 4 i heard but i think week 3 is pushing it when you start seeing bud development. it will effect the taste of the bud. If you can't get rid of PM or any bug issues before going into flower you need to hit the reset button and do some serious cleaning of your veg room and flower rooms.

[Infinitalus]

Very easy and organic way of getting rid of mites:

 

1tsp rosemary oil to a gallon of water. Spray all over the plant matter 3 times of the course of a week. No more mites.