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Ok, lets open another can of worms. What about some finished product that burns with a white ash compared to some that looks like it gets all char-coaled up and does not want to stay lit.

 

What are the causes and why? Is this related to flushing? There it has been asked.

 

Yea I enjoy reading both opinions!

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Ok, lets open another can of worms. What about some finished product that burns with a white ash compared to some that looks like it gets all char-coaled up and does not want to stay lit.

 

What are the causes and why? Is this related to flushing? There it has been asked.

 

Yea I enjoy reading both opinions!

 

IMO this is more to do with dry/cure/time/bud density and really nothing else.

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I would have to agree with BG on this one...

 

I feel it has much more to do with proper drying technique and time. I think the more white, powderey ash comes from being properly dried over a period of time, to a point where the chlorophyll doesn't gum up with carbon when heated. I think what happens when buds are dried out too fast is that the chlorophyll doesn't break down enough and leaves behind too much of the "cellular skeleton" (all the fliud stuff inside the cells, like chloraplast and what not), if you will, and when this excess chlorophyll skeleton is burned, it basically melts and gums up due to the high carbon molecules in the chlorophyll skeleton...

 

Whereas if you were to dry it slower the chlorophyll has more time to break down, shrivel up and the chloraplast evaporates more thoroughly... Thus when the plant matter is burned there is less matter to vaporize leaving behind much less carbon...

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I would have to agree with BG on this one...

 

I feel it has much more to do with proper drying technique and time. I think the more white, powderey ash comes from being properly dried over a period of time, to a point where the chlorophyll doesn't gum up with carbon when heated. I think what happens when buds are dried out too fast is that the chlorophyll doesn't break down enough and leaves behind too much of the "cellular skeleton" (all the fliud stuff inside the cells, like chloraplast and what not), if you will, and when this excess chlorophyll skeleton is burned, it basically melts and gums up due to the high carbon molecules in the chlorophyll skeleton...

 

Whereas if you were to dry it slower the chlorophyll has more time to break down, shrivel up and the chloraplast evaporates more thoroughly... Thus when the plant matter is burned there is less matter to vaporize leaving behind much less carbon...

 

+rep

 

great answer. thanks for spending the time i didnt have.

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IMO this is more to do with dry/cure/time/bud density and really nothing else.

 

 

I would have to agree with BG on this one...I feel it has much more to do with proper drying technique and time. I think the more white, powderey ash comes from being properly dried over a period of time, to a point where the chlorophyll doesn't gum up with carbon when heated. I think what happens when buds are dried out too fast is that the chlorophyll doesn't break down enough and leaves behind too much of the "cellular skeleton" (all the fliud stuff inside the cells, like chloraplast and what not), if you will, and when this excess chlorophyll skeleton is burned, it basically melts and gums up due to the high carbon molecules in the chlorophyll skeleton...Whereas if you were to dry it slower the chlorophyll has more time to break down, shrivel up and the chloraplast evaporates more thoroughly... Thus when the plant matter is burned there is less matter to vaporize leaving behind much less carbon...

 

 

+rep great answer. thanks for spending the time i didnt have.

 

 

+Rep and thanks to both of you for speaking up and allowing the discussion here. :thumbsu:

 

Have heard it was due to too much residual nutes, so the question fit with the recent discussion of flushing and nute uptake. Did not mean any harm, just curious, seeking an honest opinion, knew could get one here.

 

Thanks!

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I can't find the thread where people were posting the bubble bucket pics. i think it was in the tutorial threads but there are no comments in those threads now.

 

Anyway....

I wanted to put up some pics and say thanks to bubblegrower. I built my first buckets thanks to bubblegrower and his tutorial. followed it and exactly and so far its working well. THANK YOU!!

post-16726-098047100 1283399811_thumb.jpg

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I can't find the thread where people were posting the bubble bucket pics. i think it was in the tutorial threads but there are no comments in those threads now.

 

Anyway....

I wanted to put up some pics and say thanks to bubblegrower. I built my first buckets thanks to bubblegrower and his tutorial. followed it and exactly and so far its working well. THANK YOU!!

 

:goodjob: :goodjob: :goodjob: :goodjob::bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

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So here is my problem. All through vegetative phase everything is fine. 1st week of flowering is good but in the second week some interveinal chlorosis starts on the lower older leaves. This progresses and gets worse everyday until the plants are fried and growth comes to a halt. i have been having this problem for the last few months and have been trying many different things to fix this.

 

I thought it was something in my water so did some side by side tests with RO water and had the same problem. I tried ionic, botanicare, and GH Lucas formula and got the same problem. i have tried moving them away from the lights, trying them under T-5 8 bulb instead of 600W HPS with the same problem. I've tried different strengths of each nutrient. I've tried adding Mg because i thought for a long time it was a Mg deficiency. I did side by side tests adding no Mg, Cal-Mag but no Mg, CalMag with Mg, foliar apply Mg, and different levels up to 1 tsp per gallon in the reservoir. (maybe i needed more but the ppms go up so high when adding it.) i thought it was heat issues then light burn issues and every variable i change, they react the same way.

 

its frustrating because i work my tail off in the veg stage and get them going good then when i flower them they go downhill and its a waste. i grow them up in veg then experiment, the same thing happens, then do it all over again.

 

i am using 6'rockwool cubes in tubs surrounded by hydroton and just started a couple bubble buckets. 2 600W aircooled HPS w/Magnum XXXL hoods and a T5 8 bulb in flowering, co2 generator, mid to high 80's and 50-60% humidity. i am currently using the GH lucas formula for nutes to keep it simple and its supposed to have plenty of Mg so i figured i'd give that a shot. after a few weeks on lucas formula, they are still having problems so i am trying a tsp/gal pk boost because some of the pics look to me like a K or P deficiency. pics in my gallery show the symptoms on the leaves as they progress through flowering. it starts at the bottom larger older leaves then the large leaves at the top of the plant are affected. It starts to yellow from the outside in, getting very thin and papery feeling. you can see the progression in the pics if you look close and it ends up drying out totally.

 

i appreciate any help i can get on this. i am about out of ideas to try here. Thanks

med_gallery_16726_270_70180.jpg

med_gallery_16726_270_453252.jpg

med_gallery_16726_270_5028.jpg

 

lots more images of this problem in the gallery

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Hey BG

 

I have been following along just not posting much. But I have a friend that is doing a side by side test on a bubble bucket .V. Areo (not a hybrid)

 

2 clones from same plant

Cut at the same time

Same room, lights, nutes and all.

I hope to be able to post some of the pics and details in a new topic we will start. Should be fun for bragging rights. John

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6" rockwool cubes in tubs? and tubs of what is that?

 

we going to get you straightened away man...... no reason you shouldnt be fine as wine by now.

i peel the paper off and put them in a white plastic container. hydroton basically surrounding the cube on all sides. it gave me a much more robust root system like this instead of just using the cubes. the cubes are probably 4" above the bottom but there are lots of roots growing out the container. unfortunately this is something i changed recently and has not helped my problem at all :(

 

med_gallery_16726_270_512766.jpg

med_gallery_16726_270_261252.jpg

med_gallery_16726_270_131863.jpg

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Hey BG

 

I have been following along just not posting much. But I have a friend that is doing a side by side test on a bubble bucket .V. Areo (not a hybrid)

 

2 clones from same plant

Cut at the same time

Same room, lights, nutes and all.

I hope to be able to post some of the pics and details in a new topic we will start. Should be fun for bragging rights. John

 

a true 1min on 5min off aero?? with sprayers??

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i peel the paper off and put them in a white plastic container. hydroton basically surrounding the cube on all sides. it gave me a much more robust root system like this instead of just using the cubes. the cubes are probably 4" above the bottom but there are lots of roots growing out the container. unfortunately this is something i changed recently and has not helped my problem at all :(

 

med_gallery_16726_270_512766.jpg

http://www.michiganm..._270_261252.jpg

http://www.michiganm..._270_512766.jpg

 

what the hell?? :)

 

dude, what you have happening here?? give me wide angle shots. :) i like pics :)

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what the hell?? :)

 

dude, what you have happening here?? give me wide angle shots. :) i like pics :)

 

i'm sorry. i'm still learning from your adding pics tutorial. i tried adding 3 pics of the bucket so you could get an idea of the setup. i edited the post to get the 3 images to show up.

 

what do you want pics of? you let me know - i'll go take them right now if i don't already have them

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