Jump to content

Need Your Grow Questions Answered? Come On In!


Grow Thread

Recommended Posts

SUPER THANKS TO "HELP THREAD ORIGINAL MEMBER" TAJ MAHAL FOR BRINGING THIS TO LIGHT:

 

link here:https://www.icmag.co...ad.php?t=188434

 

Warning new off gassing product!!!! Warning new off gassing product!!!!

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

So I have been experiencing a mysterious yellowing for about 10 months. Every thing that went into one of my 11 different rooms (some that had been going 5+ years) started to yellow and eventually die. My first instinct was my ph I checked my pens, they were not very far off but I calibrated and bought new probes anyways. That did nothing. Then we suspected the nutes, maybe we got a bad batch. I had bought 6 gallon jugs and filled all my 1 gal’s up off the same batch. Call the company run the batch numbers and they say they are 18 months old, So we went out bought new nutes and nothing changed. So after that I figured my favorite brand had fallen off and we decided to try another brand. We go buy $1000 worth of canna. And we thought possibly it could be something with our clones so we picked up a batch of clones from an LA club. Same thing new nutes new genetics same yellowing. So now I am scratching my head start making some calls visit a bunch of other rooms, and at least 20 in my immediate area have this same mystery problem. So I do some research find out we are all on the same water supply. I found 4 rooms on another water district doing bitching so I say BINGO, It must be the water. We go out and buy a 275 gallon tote and start buying water from this other district. A real pain in the donkey I might add we had to do 2-3 trips a week to meet our demands. Same problem. We start doing testing 1st water test, 2nd tissues sample, I have a horticulturist come and look at things. He suggests an Iron def. We get our tests back everything looks good. We do a tissue sample off a room that is doing good compare our results and everything is fine. Except my plants still look like bunny muffin. So I emailed my test results to my original nute company they pass it around the office and let everyone take a look at it. I get a call a couple of days later from them and he asks me if I have ever considered off gassing. What is crazy is the night before I found a thread on the hydro huts and was showing my partner how Identical it looked. So now we go to our rooms and start looking around at what it could possibly be. Like I said some rooms had been going in the same location with nothing changed in about 5 years. There is only 1 new product that we had replaced the ½ tube that connects all the buckets. I started to call around and every room that was having the problem had replaced there tube with the new stuff. The 4 rooms that were doing good were using old hose and was just washing it out. So being lazy saved theses guys who would of thought. I have been talking to the company that made the offending tube for 4 months and they do not wish to resolve this problem even though I have proof that the toxic chemical is in the tube. We have done GC/MS testing, LC/MS, testing and FT IR testing that show conclusively that the chemical Diisobutyl phthalate is in the tube. This is the same chemical that caused the problems with the hydro huts. If you are having a mysterious yellowing and are using NGW tube replace it immediately and please respond to this thread. I am going to be working on a class action against these guys. I have some of the worlds top experts on the matter willing to testify and do any research needed to win this case. The idiots printed there names on the tube it has n-g-w.com printed every foot, so it is easy to identify.

 

 

Here is a brief description of what the phthalate does to the plants.

 

The toxicity caused by a volatile constituent from certain samples of flexible polyvinyl chloride (PVC)

was due to dibutyl or diisobutyl phthalate (DBP or DIBP) plasticisers. It has caused serious financial

losses in the horticultural industry. The two phthalate esters have low volatilities, so any toxicity lasts

for many years. Radish (Raphanus sativus L. cv. Cherry Belle) seedlings, exposed to an air stream

containing 160-180 ng dm~3 of butyl phthalates developed chlorotic leaves within 3-4 d and died

within 12 d. Neither dioctyl nor diisodecyl phthalate (DOP nor DIDP) produced damage in the test

plants. Measurements of photosynthetic and respiratory gas exchange in intact shoots of affected

radishes showed that photosynthesis was severely inhibited whilst respiration was virtually

unaffected. Electron micrographs of sections from young leaves showed disruption of thylakoid

formation and granal stacking. In mature leaves, thylakoids and grana were well formed but

chloroplasts were swollen and the thylakoids were pushed towards the vacuolar side of the

chloroplast. Sensitivity to toxic phthalates varies between species; all members of the Crucifcrae tested

were susceptible, tomato less so, and lettuce and ryegrass were resistant. Toxicity of DIBP, from PVC

glazing strip, caused a reduction in crop value of £20000 per acre per year in commercially grown,

monocrop tomatoes.

 

 

 

 

The effects of phthalate esters on chlorophyll a2 fluorescence in radish plants (Raphanus sativus L. cv.

Cherry Belle) were examined Fluorescence yield was increased in those plants exposed to an aerial

concentration of 120 ng dm"3 dibutyl phthalate (DBP) at a rate of 3-0 dm3 min"1 for 13 d.

Comparison of fluorescence enhancement ratios and Fr^/F01 suggests that DBP inhibits photosynthesis

in radish plants at a site after QA. Both DBP and diisobutyl phthalate (DIBP) strongly

inhibited uncoupled (PS2 + PS1) electron transport rates in thylakoids isolated from spinach. At a

chlorophyll concentration of 10 /ig cm"3 the concentrations of DBP and DIBP exhibiting 50%

inhibition were 44 mmol m " 3 and 42 mmol m " 3 respectively. Basal electron transport rates were also

inhibited, with 87 mmol m"3 of DBP or DIBP producing 50% inhibition. Measurement of

photosystem 1 activity suggested that the main site of action of these phthalates was localized at a site

near the reducing side of photosystem 2.

 

ECA #10281

 

The analysis of the samples has been completed and the results are given below. The sample information is:

______________________________ ____________________ ________________

Customer Identification: PVT Tube

Sample #: 10281a

Date Received: 7-12-10

Test Requested: Identification and Quantification of Phthalate(s)

USP <851> FTIR with quantitative extraction.

 

Sample Results

PVT Tube

15.95% diisobutylphthalate

FTIR spectrum matches well with diisobutylphthalate library spectra and reference standard.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

is there any way to increase crystal production? I know that stressing the plant a bit produces more THC but I have seen some very extremely "frosty" product lately and I want to know if there is anything i can do or if its just strain specific...

 

everything is strain specific.

 

what i do to this strain may not work for that one ect.

 

different bloom boosters work. various stressors can work. a couple/few/week of darkness at the end can help......

 

but it all comes down to beginning with a good strain. believe me, there is nobody taking bunk genetics and magically making super resin :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, sufe enough, everything in my rooms is NGW

 

Took a copy of that post to my local hydro shop, then went and bought some ''WATTS'' 1/2'' vinyl at HD.. it said food safe right on it, so here is hoping...

 

 

Bub, you should really come out, and bring soome of tthe above for show n tell...lol

 

i'll bring 2 of these:

 

gallery_13801_60_1837692.jpg

 

i know thats pushing the limits :) but i was afforded a great privilege today and i feel obligated to share :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, sufe enough, everything in my rooms is NGW

 

Took a copy of that post to my local hydro shop, then went and bought some ''WATTS'' 1/2'' vinyl at HD.. it said food safe right on it, so here is hoping...

 

 

Bub, you should really come out, and bring soome of tthe above for show n tell...lol

 

Read that whole thread and saved some notes, will post the one on recovery procedures later if ya need / want. for now must go out for a bit. By the sounds of things that should cure all the ills if you had the NGW tubing.

 

Peace

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great thread and thank you! I'm researching how to grow. Question about the early vegetative stage. When plants reach 10-12 inches, is it helpful to pinch the centers out of each break to promote additional brack growth? I've also seen much said about plant stretching. In commercial greenhouses, growth retardants are used at early stages of plants. B-9 and Florel are the most common. B-9 just retards the plant from growing tall while still allowing the foliage to expand. Florel halts growth and force bottom brack generation and also will delay flowering. Can such chemicals be used on marijuana plants? I've never been a fan of Florel on Geranium crops or Poinsettias, however on mum crops it really produces a nice, shorter full plant with a 25% flower increase. Anyone?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great thread and thank you! I'm researching how to grow. Question about the early vegetative stage. When plants reach 10-12 inches, is it helpful to pinch the centers out of each break to promote additional brack growth? I've also seen much said about plant stretching. In commercial greenhouses, growth retardants are used at early stages of plants. B-9 and Florel are the most common. B-9 just retards the plant from growing tall while still allowing the foliage to expand. Florel halts growth and force bottom brack generation and also will delay flowering. Can such chemicals be used on marijuana plants? I've never been a fan of Florel on Geranium crops or Poinsettias, however on mum crops it really produces a nice, shorter full plant with a 25% flower increase. Anyone?

 

there are tons of threads (this is one of them) that have good info on topping/fimming.

it is beneficial in some strains and not in others really. some people top their plants because of height restrictions.

 

yes, there are chemicals to add to your cannabis plants to halt the stretch. here's one now :)

http://www.4hydropon...emNo=bushMaster

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you had the experience growing in dirt where the roots of their plant (Swampy's Free Leonard in my case) like to grow up out of the soil, then arch back down in to the soil? i keep trying to cover them with soil after watering, but they end up baring them selves again the next day. i thought it would be bad for them. but they sure don't appear to mind. Any opinions on this?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you had the experience growing in dirt where the roots of their plant (Swampy's Free Leonard in my case) like to grow up out of the soil, then arch back down in to the soil? i keep trying to cover them with soil after watering, but they end up baring them selves again the next day. i thought it would be bad for them. but they sure don't appear to mind. Any opinions on this?

 

i have personally never had that problem. reminds me of the trees in the "swamp people" show :)

 

cypress trees do that too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...