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I have a question i"m hopeing you can answer for me bg. some of the roots on my plants in the bubble buckets are turning brown, the plants still look great they are not wilting or anything. I'm wondering if the water temp could be to warm. would that cause the roots to turn brown? If so how do you keep your water the right temp? thanks bg i apprieciate your help.

thanks brandy

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brown roots are fine. as long as they are not all snotty and real yucky..... then you have a problem.

 

if it gets too bad, i have found that removing the plant and spraying the roots with tapwater helps. i use something like the kitchen sprayer thingy and hose them off. the chlorine actually helps clean them. but then you want to get the plants back into r.o. water (or whatever your normal grow water is)

 

well, not "fine", but "ok" :)

 

could be caused by heat yes. could also be caused by something foreign in the water that has helped to create some bad bacteria also. i prefer not to water hydroton from the top (drips systems) just because of this. ya just never know what may settle in your hydroton and then you wash it down to the roots.

 

anyways, there are tons of different ways to chill water assuming its not a 72 plants million gallon system.

 

give me a couple minutes and i will copy/paste a few posts from the grow journal on cheap/easy water cooling.

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in a system with a control bucket pumping to all the others??

 

here's your best budget friend.

med_gallery_13801_60_402811.jpg

 

a one gallon block of r.o. ice.

put a gallon in a milk jug, dump it in the big popcorn bowl in the cupboard. in the freezer for the night it goes.

add to the control bucket in the morning and it will drop your temps by 10 degrees for 2-4 hours depending on how many buckets/totes you have hooked up.

 

in mid flower, frozen ice blocks are the only water the little room is getting right now. about 6 of them per day keeps my water level just where i need it. 8 plants in that system. 4 ten gallon totes holding 6 gallons each, and the control tote holding 6 gallons as well.

 

the water pump in the control bucket is pumping constant water to the 1st and 3rd bucket in line.

 

well, i thought i could find more........... but i guess its faster to just type :)

 

another easy way is to get two 2liter soda bottles and rinse them out real well. fill 2/3 full with water, screw the lid on and put them in the freezer. when frozen, take one out, rinse it off, and float it in your totes/bucket. when its melted (few hours usually) just rinse off and put back in freezer. replace with the one thats already frozen. keep a cycle going :)

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Bubble Grower first let me say I LOVE learning from you...Although I currently grow in dirt, with the exception of my DIY cloner, I am seriously considering changing to all bubbles, or Hempy Buckets. HB's seem to be less hassle, but the Bubbles look to be more fun :D Here's my question, and if I've missed it somewhere my apologies- What do you keep your timer set at? I have my cloner set at 15 minutes run time every hour, for 24 hrs, with about a 99% success rate. I was just wondering if the same would apply for totes/buckets...? Again sorry if this has already been covered!! Thanks!

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Bubble Grower first let me say I LOVE learning from you...Although I currently grow in dirt, with the exception of my DIY cloner, I am seriously considering changing to all bubbles, or Hempy Buckets. HB's seem to be less hassle, but the Bubbles look to be more fun :D Here's my question, and if I've missed it somewhere my apologies- What do you keep your timer set at? I have my cloner set at 15 minutes run time every hour, for 24 hrs, with about a 99% success rate. I was just wondering if the same would apply for totes/buckets...? Again sorry if this has already been covered!! Thanks!

 

is your cloner aero? with little sprayers?

 

when in bubblebucket or bubbletotes, the air pumps need to be on 24hrs/day. when the roots are literally growing in water, we need to keep that water oxygenated all day every day.

 

in aero cloners, yes some people set timers either much the same as yours, or even better yet, 1 min on and then 5 mins off.

 

the pump in an aero cloner is a water pump.... the pump in bubblebuckets/totes is an air pump.

 

hope this helped.......... if not i'll try to explain it again :)

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is your cloner aero? with little sprayers?

 

when in bubblebucket or bubbletotes, the air pumps need to be on 24hrs/day. when the roots are literally growing in water, we need to keep that water oxygenated all day every day.

 

in aero cloners, yes some people set timers either much the same as yours, or even better yet, 1 min on and then 5 mins off.

 

the pump in an aero cloner is a water pump.... the pump in bubblebuckets/totes is an air pump.

 

hope this helped.......... if not i'll try to explain it again :)

 

Thanks, helps a lot! I'm using an air stone, water that has sat out for at least 24 hrs.(including any refill h20) and just a hint of thrive alive. Using olivias gel. It is a tiny 4 site cloner, but has kept my perpetual grow right on track. Roots in about 14 days... Sound about right?

 

Thanks again!

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So here is my problem. All through vegetative phase everything is fine. 1st week of flowering is good but in the second week some interveinal chlorosis starts on the lower older leaves. This progresses and gets worse everyday until the plants are fried and growth comes to a halt. i have been having this problem for the last few months and have been trying many different things to fix this.

 

I thought it was something in my water so did some side by side tests with RO water and had the same problem. I tried ionic, botanicare, and GH Lucas formula and got the same problem. i have tried moving them away from the lights, trying them under T-5 8 bulb instead of 600W HPS with the same problem. I've tried different strengths of each nutrient. I've tried adding Mg because i thought for a long time it was a Mg deficiency. I did side by side tests adding no Mg, Cal-Mag but no Mg, CalMag with Mg, foliar apply Mg, and different levels up to 1 tsp per gallon in the reservoir. (maybe i needed more but the ppms go up so high when adding it.) i thought it was heat issues then light burn issues and every variable i change, they react the same way.

 

its frustrating because i work my tail off in the veg stage and get them going good then when i flower them they go downhill and its a waste. i grow them up in veg then experiment, the same thing happens, then do it all over again.

 

i am using 6'rockwool cubes in tubs surrounded by hydroton and just started a couple bubble buckets. 2 600W aircooled HPS w/Magnum XXXL hoods and a T5 8 bulb in flowering, co2 generator, mid to high 80's and 50-60% humidity. i am currently using the GH lucas formula for nutes to keep it simple and its supposed to have plenty of Mg so i figured i'd give that a shot. after a few weeks on lucas formula, they are still having problems so i am trying a tsp/gal pk boost because some of the pics look to me like a K or P deficiency. pics in my gallery show the symptoms on the leaves as they progress through flowering. it starts at the bottom larger older leaves then the large leaves at the top of the plant are affected. It starts to yellow from the outside in, getting very thin and papery feeling. you can see the progression in the pics if you look close and it ends up drying out totally.

 

i appreciate any help i can get on this. i am about out of ideas to try here. Thanks

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lots more images of this problem in the gallery

 

i'm happy to say the problem with the leaves getting crispy has been solved. it was over-watering the rockwool cubes which created a nutrient lockout. i got some help from MedScientist so i want to give a special thanks to him and also everyone else that helped me. THANKS!!

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