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I have them under an 18" flourescent "garden" bulb that is right over them for a few more days. They're only 4" tall right now.

I have a bubblebucket plant of considerable size that is about to go into flower and due to how high I have to have it elevated, the tote isn't getting any of it. I may just pull clones and start my next tote a bit ahead of the 18 day mark since I'm at the beginning of the perpetual program and make the T5 available.

 

I'll try to shoot some pics and post them in the next 24 hours.

 

I'll start the water back fill like you said until I get more used to the method.

 

Now, when the second step says 100% nutrient solution, does that mean 5ml and 10ml per gallon, or does that mean doing the calculations so that your nutes/volume are added in such a fashion as to raise the ppm up to the maximum?

 

I was reading one board where Lucas himself was answering questions and I got the impression that keeping your ppm up to the maximum was key in the success of the method. Did I misunderstand that? It appears as though I might have since we are discussing back filling with just pH adjusted water.

 

I'm really excited about both the Lucas method and the perpetual grow using the totes. So I hope I can get this all dialed in. I am a true convert when it comes to the DWI/bubble method.

 

yeah if they are 4" tall they are ready for as much light as you can give them.

 

when using the second step, you really should be using the addback calculator:

 

Addback Calculator - (For Advanced Users)

 

Say you were running the 0-8-16 formula, at 0.7 conversion with a 22 gallon res. When you first fill it up, your ppm will be around 1330. (with a .05 conversion it would be 1000ppm)

 

Now you have been growing for a week, and some of the water has been taken up by the plants, some has evaporated, and now your res is at 947 ppm. You need to get your ppm from 947 to 1330. Here is the equation:

 

((target - current) / target) * 8 ml per gallon * res gallons = Flora Micro (ml) double this figure to get Flora Bloom (ml)

 

Example:

 

((1330 - 947) / 1330) * 8 * 22

(383 / 1330) * 8 * 22

0.3 * 8 * 22 = 53 ml Flora Micro

 

53 ml Flora Micro, double that and you get 106 ml Flora Bloom. So 53 ml Flora Micro and 106 ml Flora Bloom to add back to your 22 gallon res to get you from 947 to 1330.

 

 

 

------------------------

 

using that method will in fact keep your ppm's at the same number (or dang close) day after day.

 

the idea with cannabis, or any other plant for that matter, is that slightly too little is fine.... slightly too much isnt fine.

 

if you mix up a fresh tote and your reading is 800 ppm. (just pulling that number out of the air) and the plant drinks half a gallon over a 2 day period, add back a half gallon of straight r.o. water without nutes. obviously this is going to make your ppm's drop slightly... but not drastically. after another couple days the same may occur and once again you backfill whatever is needed and your ppm's will again lower slightly.

 

flushing is a hydro guys best friend. it is a major benefit that you have over a soil grower. use that 24 hour flush often when you are first learning the ropes.

 

if you can stay away from the addback calculator and use the other method, your ppm's may sway a bit low at times just before a dump/flush/change..... but its better than a burn that may be fatal or really mess up your yield. scorched and dead leaves cant collect sunlight, but slightly underfed leaves still can :)

 

once you get to know your strains a bit better and know what they can and cant take, you will have a much better feel.

 

i often use the simple addback with clean water when running a strain for the first time.....

 

when i do this i ususally flush every couple weeks. this keeps any salts out..... and lets you replenish your buckets/totes every 14 days with fresh 100% solution and max ppm's.

 

it sounds like your problem may be light related as well. definitely give them as much light as possible.

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if you dont wanna use the rockwool then yeah, start in soil and move to clay. here's a quickie i put together:

 

MOVING FROM SOIL TO HYDRO

okie dokie.

 

soil to hydro:

 

here we are: med_gallery_13801_60_102236.jpg

 

i let the soil dry out pretty well. not as much as i prefer, but good enough for government service:

 

med_gallery_13801_60_177589.jpg

and then wiggle it out of its home.

 

here we are:

med_gallery_13801_60_162966.jpg

 

now bob it up and down in some r.o. water:

med_gallery_13801_60_1533784.jpg

looking good here:

med_gallery_13801_60_1497528.jpg

med_gallery_13801_60_683298.jpg

 

into the hydro we go......... start with a net pot with a thin layer of hydroton on the bottom:

med_gallery_13801_60_201887.jpg

 

a little cleaner is preferred, mock my grow habits, not my cleanliness :)

its all good :)

 

here we are setting the lil girl in the pot:

med_gallery_13801_60_651581.jpg

 

and place more hydroton around the edges:

med_gallery_13801_60_936134.jpg

med_gallery_13801_60_940815.jpg

 

and from right now i will topwater 3-4 times a day for 3-4 days until the roots grow out the bottom....... then its all about joy and happiness :)

 

after about a week, dump/wash/refill everything to get rid of any leftover soil!! this is VERY IMPORTANT!!

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i have seen people just throw a bean on top of clay pebbles and go. that's crazy right there. way too much stress.

 

use a rapid rooter? they are a bit spongier than rockwool and tend to not spit the bean out as often.

 

Yeah I've used those and have some still will it break down in dwc? I don't want it to cause issues because of the hormones and bunny muffin inside of it.

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no you should be fine. i would plant the seed in the rooter and use the tray/dome until you have roots coming out the bottom..... then transfer to netpots/clay pebbles.

 

after transfer, set your water level to normal (1/8-1/4" below netpot) and topwater for a few days until the roots grow through the netpot. this way the water level is never high enough to totally soak the rooter..... and by the time the roots hit the water, you good to go anyways.

 

topwatering, whether rockwool, rooters, or a soil transplant may cause crap to show up in your water. after a week i dump/refill just to be 100% positive. at best you only have 1/2 strength nutes in there, so you really arent wasting much by dumping so soon after planting.

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I like your 9 day cycle plan!

 

:thumbsu: thank ya

 

I need to know what I can mix 40+ gallons of nutes in.....which garbage cans can I use?

 

darn this DWC takes alot of water!!!

 

lots of water means BIG PLANTS :thumbsu:

 

anything sterilite or rubbermaid is fine.

 

i have a couple 55 gallon barrels that once held car wash soap. cleaned them up real well, linked them together, and attached one of these to them: http://www.4hydroponics.com/hydroponics/pumps2.asp?ItemNo=pressureFloatValve

 

the r.o. filter automatically stops filling after i get around 90 gallons total and then i can mix in nutrients and pump the water to wherever i need it.

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Have a bag but haven't used them yet. They are advertised as The Rock That Doesn't Roll" lol

No uniform pieces at all and some are so porous they actually float till absorbed. ' Going to

put them in use here real soon and I'll let you guys know the outcome.

 

 

Sunleaves Rocks are a reusable growing medium with serious H20-holding power for use in any kind of garden. They're made by superheating shale to temperatures up to 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit, rendering them pH-neutral and chemically inert. Gardeners can make their lives a little easier, take care of their plants, and take it easy on the planet when they grow with the rock that doesn't roll! Mined and manufactured in the United States.

 

"

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:thumbsu: thank ya

 

 

 

lots of water means BIG PLANTS :thumbsu:

 

anything sterilite or rubbermaid is fine.

 

i have a couple 55 gallon barrels that once held car wash soap. cleaned them up real well, linked them together, and attached one of these to them: http://www.4hydropon...ssureFloatValve

 

the r.o. filter automatically stops filling after i get around 90 gallons total and then i can mix in nutrients and pump the water to wherever i need it.

 

 

You've got one of these things set up?

 

I'm going to need to be setting one of these up soon.

 

How come you don't take pictures of this stuff man? We want to see all your stuff! Why ya holding out?

 

 

I'm looking forward to the day when I can buy a R.O. water system so I don't have to de-chlorinize. I've got a nice little system down now, but it could be easier....

 

7995086.jpg?323

Edited by Royal Smoke
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You've got one of these things set up?

 

I'm going to need to be setting one of these up soon.

 

How come you don't take pictures of this stuff man? We want to see all your stuff! Why ya holding out?

 

 

I'm looking forward to the day when I can buy a R.O. water system so I don't have to de-chlorinize. I've got a nice little system down now, but it could be easier....

 

7995086.jpg?323

 

it's out in the big rooms..... no audio/video equipment permitted :)

 

it's actually a very cheap and easy set-up.

 

the float works just like the one in a toilet. once the water level gets so high, it automatically shuts off. you could mount the float valve in a 10gal tote (or anything) if you wanted...... but i need more water for the bigger rooms so i linked 2-55gal drums together at the top via the same 1/2" connectors and tubes that i use for the DWC setups. once the first drum gets almost full enough to trip the float valve and make the r.o. filter shut off.......... it starts to trickle into the other 55 gallon drum. after they are both full, the float valve trips and the whole setup stops running.

if/when needed, i can attach a 3rd or 4th drum. :thumbsu:

 

yeah i would make an r.o. filter a priority on the next shopping spree. especially growing in bubbles...... it just makes life so much easier not having to wait for chlorine to evaporate...... not to mention starting out at 0ppm :)

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i answered the most infamous question of all in a p.m. this morning....

 

figured since i took the time to type it out i might as well post my thoughts :thumbsu:

 

 

 

 

How do you get your yields up? It would appear your yielding more than most based on your journals. I have a hard time breaking 2 or 3 zips a plant indoor. I have access to all the essential parts the plants need as far as the rooms go. What is a good blueprint?

 

 

Thanks

 

really there are 3 things involved with yield. strain, veg time, and light.

 

it's really that simple.

 

nutrients of course play a factor.... but not as much as what everyone seems to think.

 

if you are growing a strain known to be a good yielder, and you have her under 1000 watt lamps.... and are not getting the yields you think you should.............. then you aren't vegging long enough.

 

even the best of the best soil grower with a top notch strain can't veg plants as fast as a dialed-in bubblebucket so that helps me dramatically.

 

i can veg for 3-4 weeks in the buckets/totes and get the same sized plant as a soil grown one that vegged for 5 weeks. (possibly a slight exaggeration in some cases, but you know what i mean)

 

so obviously if i veg mine for 5 weeks in the buckets, i will have bigger than anything in soil.

 

honestly there is no trick to it..... if it is yields that you want.... get the strain, get 1000watt light to flower them under and veg them for longer.

 

the vegetative stage is SO OVERLOOKED in many grows...... newer growers get fixated on flowers and stare at them all day, but the veg stage is MUCH MORE IMPORTANT than flower. without a properly vegged plant there is no BIG yields. common sense says that a toothpick stem isnt gonna hold up a 2oz flower :)

 

i see so many people putting plants into flower that are 12-18" tall and look like the charlie brown christmas tree and then wonder why they didnt get 4 ounces per plant like someone else did.

 

veg, veg, veg :)

 

keep the humidity up and the light very intense in the veg state. keep a chart of the plant height when it goes into the flower room.

 

if you only get 1.5 ounces this round, clone her and grow it to 6" taller next time before introducing 12/12.

 

it is a PROVEN fact that an extra week or 10 days in veg can double the yield.

 

growing cannabis is a very time consuming endeavor.... no doubt..... but patience is key. an extra week here or there is nothing in the grand scheme of the lifespan of a plant.

 

flowering them for an extra week or 2 isnt going to up your yields at all..... but vegging them for another week or 2 will do wonders :)

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i guess i'll continue while i feel the urge to spew forth info.

 

veg really is important.

 

if you arent getting a decent node density/stem growth in veg you should be finding the problem. are the nutes too weak? distance from light? humidity? need a new lamp??

 

something could probably be fixed, changed, or tweaked to make things smoother.

 

don't be scared to top your plants. some strains just wanna grow lanky/tall. thats all there is to it. if you want to keep up your yield, but not max out on plant height, you need to be topping them, fimming, lst, scrog, something.

 

remember..... light is important.

 

in veg i do not trim/pluck anything off the plant unless it is 50% dead. i am in the thinking that they need all the leaves they can get during veg. the more the merrier.

 

and THIS is one of the main reasons why that extra week in veg can double your yields on occasion. obviously a plant that has been vegging for 2 weeks has less fan leaves than one that has vegged for 4 weeks. ....... so the 4 weeker has the ability to suck up more light and make faster growth...... in one weeks time that 4 weeker is going to grow MUCH more than that 2 weeker....... that's just commonly overlooked common sense. bigger plants grow faster.

 

after they hit flower and stretch for a week or two i start whacking off the lower branches. by now they are too far away from the light and too shaded by the canopy to really help us..... they are more of a parasite in my eyes...... sucking usable energy out of our plant in effort to just stay alive and maybe produce a little 1/2 gram nugget??

 

nah.... i whack them off during the end of the stretch period. this "lollipopping effect" gets rid of the riff-raff scrub underbrush and makes the plant concentrate on the upper stuff..... and that where the goodies are at. it also aids tremendously in allowing air flow throughout the room.

 

i feel like all the "real" work for the grower is during the veg state..... after they hit flower it's like autopilot.

 

concentrate on the veg period.... let them spend that extra week in veg if thats what you need to get the yield up :thumbsu:

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